My cay has stopped cooling twice now. The first time was 1 year ago, I had it recharged and it lasted about 5 months and then started blowing cold. The guy that did it did a pressure test and it passed so he told me that it would be good now.

The second time (month ago) it started blowing hot and I took it in to an Indy shop here in Killeen and I told him that I had to have a leak since this was the second issue in 5 months. They did a UV dye test and a pressure test and both passed, no leaks detected with UV. Now they want to recharge with freon and UV yet again! I am afraid that nothing will be found yet again so I did the A/C diagnostic and these are the values I got.

can someone tell me if they see anything that may need to be replaced! The temperature outside was 60 degrees. Oh yeah my EC light has been on for a month as well.


1 in-car temp (91)
2 temp outside (100)
3 heater core temp, left (159)
4 heater core temp, right (87)
5 evaporator core temp (75)
6 engine coolant temp (192)
7 refrigerant pressure (in bars) (1)
8 refrigerant temp (99)
9 not used (0)
10 blower control voltage in range .8 - 6V (max) (5.0)
11 air pollution sensor (N/A no reading for this!!)
12 sun sensor (N/A)
20 control current of aux fan (0)
21 engine RPM (x 100) (6)
22 vehicle speed, km/h (0) I was parked
23 terminal 58d battery charge, percent (100)
24 battery voltage (14.1)
40 software status register (6)
41 hardware status register (3)

I also had the following come up:

42 (200)
43 (8)

Thanks for any help!!

Greg

Hey Greg, it's just a guess but I think your duavalve has crapped out. Look at the left heater core temp. I envision it takes A LOT of AC to overcome 159 degrees. I'd try cleaning the plungers.

IHTH

when you ran the error mode?ec light on and cant shut it off means the compressor is not running.Low on r134a before you have a shop do it,toss in a can of r134a from any goods parts supply and see if the compressor triggers on and the light can be turned off.Then run the tests and errors 1-8 are all that matter.
most models run the same obd for the climate control so see if this helps
http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27
If all they did was charge the system last time and it worked for 5 months,you have a leak and it needs to be traced repaired evacuated a new drier installed and filled with oil and r134a.Then you will be good to go.
Give the duo valves a firm tap(thunk)with the wooden handle of a screw driver,just a drum like tap that should free it up in most cases without you having to take them apart...diy on benzworld.org w210 diy section
ohlord

In addition to what ohlord posted, if they don't see the dye from the leak with an UV lamp under the hood, it may not be leaking there. It may be leaking on the "in the car" side of the firewall.

Man, I didn't even think about the inside of the cabin!! That must mean more big bucks than normal. I am going to have the system recharged then with freon and UV Dye again and look for the leak. I found some UV lenses and light at Autozone so I can start checking it myself as well if the Indy says they cat find a leak again.

unless you have a very strong black light and a really dark garage
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta..._stores.taf#TX
just had a electronic sniffer on sale if you have a store near you.If you go over all the lines and fittings you should be able to find the leak,if you can't do it easily take it back to hb and ask for your money back and have a shop do it.

inside the cabin you just set it in a vent and close the doors if it is inside you will hear the alert beeping.always start the check at the fittings around the condenser.The sniffer with the engine off is very sensitive to small leaks.