Preventive maintenance
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5
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2001 CLK55
Preventive maintenance
Hi all,
Can anyone recommend a maintenance schedule for CLKs to help them last longer? Things that can be fairly easily done yourself, like changing the oil at 3,000 miles.
I saw this, but I'm not sure which of these I could/should do myself.
http://www.autohausaz.com/mercedes-a...s-tuneups.html
Thanks
Can anyone recommend a maintenance schedule for CLKs to help them last longer? Things that can be fairly easily done yourself, like changing the oil at 3,000 miles.
I saw this, but I'm not sure which of these I could/should do myself.
http://www.autohausaz.com/mercedes-a...s-tuneups.html
Thanks
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 876
Likes: 81
From: Phoenix AZ & Cayucos CA
’27 AMG SL55(ordered), ‘23 EQS 580 SUV, ‘19 AMG E53 Cpe, ‘48 Willys Jeepster
There are a number of different opinions regarding engine oil change intervals, but I've had three cars (Audi 5000TQ, Jeep GC and a BMW M5) that I put at least 160,000 miles each on with Mobil 1 changed every 10,000 miles.
When I replaced the M5 timing chain at 160,000 miles it looked virtually new inside so the long-ish interval didn't seem to hurt anything. It was also using about as much oil at the end as when we bought it in '89.
I would also plan on changing transmission and final drive oils every 40-50,000 miles, using OEM ATF for the transmission and Mobil 1 or Redline for the diff.
I replace coolant hoses around 80,000 miles, as I prefer to pick the time and place. I've always changed coolant every 40,000 miles, but with the new OEM coolant I don't know if that's necessary any longer.
When I replaced the M5 timing chain at 160,000 miles it looked virtually new inside so the long-ish interval didn't seem to hurt anything. It was also using about as much oil at the end as when we bought it in '89.
I would also plan on changing transmission and final drive oils every 40-50,000 miles, using OEM ATF for the transmission and Mobil 1 or Redline for the diff.
I replace coolant hoses around 80,000 miles, as I prefer to pick the time and place. I've always changed coolant every 40,000 miles, but with the new OEM coolant I don't know if that's necessary any longer.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
You may want to include these items in your regular maintenance schedule - brake fluid changes, coolant changes, checking the condition of the flex discs, replacing the fuel filter, only using fleece oil filters, high quality air filters, checking the wheel bearings, checking the ball joints, spark plugs at a minimum by the book, and ATF changes.
I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but with the exception of the ATF service, I do everything I just listed. None of it is very difficult if you have the correct tools.
I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but with the exception of the ATF service, I do everything I just listed. None of it is very difficult if you have the correct tools.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5
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2001 CLK55
I just got a Service B. They changed the air filters, oil, oil filters, transmission fluid (I asked for it), and the 1,000 spark plugs. I could have probably done all of it except the transmission fluid. Where can I look up how to check the other things like wheel bearings, ball joints, motor mounts, etc?
Thanks.
Thanks.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 84
From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
To see if the ball joints are dead, raise the wheel check for vertical play. In a nutshell, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if there's any play. (insert *pay to play joke* here)
While the wheel is in the air, you can check to see if there is play at 9 and 3 o'clock. That points to either wheel bearings or tie rods.
To check the motor mounts, pull the car up on ramps and look at them. If they have stains like fluid leaked from them, it's because the fluid leaked from them.
At that point, you need mounts. Everyone is different, but I'd never change a *single* mount. I change them in pairs. When one mount is dead, the other isn't far behind.
While the wheel is in the air, you can check to see if there is play at 9 and 3 o'clock. That points to either wheel bearings or tie rods.
To check the motor mounts, pull the car up on ramps and look at them. If they have stains like fluid leaked from them, it's because the fluid leaked from them.
At that point, you need mounts. Everyone is different, but I'd never change a *single* mount. I change them in pairs. When one mount is dead, the other isn't far behind.
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Super Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 876
Likes: 81
From: Phoenix AZ & Cayucos CA
’27 AMG SL55(ordered), ‘23 EQS 580 SUV, ‘19 AMG E53 Cpe, ‘48 Willys Jeepster
To see if the ball joints are dead, raise the wheel check for vertical play. In a nutshell, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if there's any play. (insert *pay to play joke* here)
While the wheel is in the air, you can check to see if there is play at 9 and 3 o'clock. That points to either wheel bearings or tie rods.
To check the motor mounts, pull the car up on ramps and look at them. If they have stains like fluid leaked from them, it's because the fluid leaked from them. At that point, you need mounts. Everyone is different, but I'd never change a *single* mount. I change them in pairs. When one mount is dead, the other isn't far behind.
While the wheel is in the air, you can check to see if there is play at 9 and 3 o'clock. That points to either wheel bearings or tie rods.
To check the motor mounts, pull the car up on ramps and look at them. If they have stains like fluid leaked from them, it's because the fluid leaked from them.
At that point, you need mounts. Everyone is different, but I'd never change a *single* mount. I change them in pairs. When one mount is dead, the other isn't far behind.For ball joints and tie rods I usually take a large pair of channel locks, also called water pump pliers for some reason, and squeeze the joint. Any movement at all means that the joint is bad. You can do this with the front end up in the air or on the ground in the case of tie rod ends.
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