CLK55 AMG, CLK63 AMG (W208, W209) 2000 - 2010 (Two Generations)

Preventive maintenance

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Old 09-29-2008, 12:36 PM
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2001 CLK55
Preventive maintenance

Hi all,

Can anyone recommend a maintenance schedule for CLKs to help them last longer? Things that can be fairly easily done yourself, like changing the oil at 3,000 miles.

I saw this, but I'm not sure which of these I could/should do myself.

http://www.autohausaz.com/mercedes-a...s-tuneups.html

Thanks
Old 09-29-2008, 05:46 PM
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'19 AMG E53 Cpe, '23 EQS 580 SUV, '88 560SL, '35 Ford 5w coupe, '53 MGTD and others
There are a number of different opinions regarding engine oil change intervals, but I've had three cars (Audi 5000TQ, Jeep GC and a BMW M5) that I put at least 160,000 miles each on with Mobil 1 changed every 10,000 miles.

When I replaced the M5 timing chain at 160,000 miles it looked virtually new inside so the long-ish interval didn't seem to hurt anything. It was also using about as much oil at the end as when we bought it in '89.

I would also plan on changing transmission and final drive oils every 40-50,000 miles, using OEM ATF for the transmission and Mobil 1 or Redline for the diff.

I replace coolant hoses around 80,000 miles, as I prefer to pick the time and place. I've always changed coolant every 40,000 miles, but with the new OEM coolant I don't know if that's necessary any longer.
Old 09-29-2008, 07:54 PM
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02 CLK 55 AMG,09 C63 loaded with P30
Mobil 1 is not like it used to be. I use Castrol synthetic and change it every 5k miles. I would never let it go 10k miles
Old 09-30-2008, 03:50 PM
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How difficult is it to replace coolant hoses? Is this something I can do? How about replacing the coolant?

Thanks.
Old 09-30-2008, 10:53 PM
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You may want to include these items in your regular maintenance schedule - brake fluid changes, coolant changes, checking the condition of the flex discs, replacing the fuel filter, only using fleece oil filters, high quality air filters, checking the wheel bearings, checking the ball joints, spark plugs at a minimum by the book, and ATF changes.

I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but with the exception of the ATF service, I do everything I just listed. None of it is very difficult if you have the correct tools.
Old 10-02-2008, 07:09 AM
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I just got a Service B. They changed the air filters, oil, oil filters, transmission fluid (I asked for it), and the 1,000 spark plugs. I could have probably done all of it except the transmission fluid. Where can I look up how to check the other things like wheel bearings, ball joints, motor mounts, etc?

Thanks.
Old 10-02-2008, 01:39 PM
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To see if the ball joints are dead, raise the wheel check for vertical play. In a nutshell, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if there's any play. (insert *pay to play joke* here)

While the wheel is in the air, you can check to see if there is play at 9 and 3 o'clock. That points to either wheel bearings or tie rods.

To check the motor mounts, pull the car up on ramps and look at them. If they have stains like fluid leaked from them, it's because the fluid leaked from them. At that point, you need mounts. Everyone is different, but I'd never change a *single* mount. I change them in pairs. When one mount is dead, the other isn't far behind.
Old 10-02-2008, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
To see if the ball joints are dead, raise the wheel check for vertical play. In a nutshell, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if there's any play. (insert *pay to play joke* here)

While the wheel is in the air, you can check to see if there is play at 9 and 3 o'clock. That points to either wheel bearings or tie rods.

To check the motor mounts, pull the car up on ramps and look at them. If they have stains like fluid leaked from them, it's because the fluid leaked from them. At that point, you need mounts. Everyone is different, but I'd never change a *single* mount. I change them in pairs. When one mount is dead, the other isn't far behind.
What MarcusF said, with the one comment that I prefer to test wheel bearings at 12 and 6 o'clock. There's less movement from the steering wheel turning as you load the wheel to confuse things.

For ball joints and tie rods I usually take a large pair of channel locks, also called water pump pliers for some reason, and squeeze the joint. Any movement at all means that the joint is bad. You can do this with the front end up in the air or on the ground in the case of tie rod ends.

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