Act of God, and about $10,000 dollars.

 

Today was an AMG day for me:
* Dealer fixed the drivers side mirror light lense.... it was cracked.
* My clear side marker lights came in.... I love the look.
* CF lip came in...... it is going to be soooo sweet.

I also pulled the air intake to checkout the coil packs and air filters.
The filters looked to be the orig fram's...... full of leaves, bees, and crap..... I used my air compressor to blow the filters clean for now.... I've got some blue-filters on order.

Now that I see the stock MB air intake system it's pretty tortuous...... pull air from the front.... (OK that's good.....)..... then stuff it into the side of each paper filter and under a crevace....... then through the filters into the center plastic chamber which is a heat-box right above the engine valley...!!!! then through a screen in the center rear..... then into another screen into the MAS.

Me thinks there would be benefits to removing the screens from the MAS and just running a mandrel bent pipe from the MAS to the fender or the front of the car. Has anyone tried this direct approach?

Does the CLK ECU have adaptive learning tables where as it see's more AIR flow into the MAS it adjusts the fuel injector pulse width visa-vis the O2 sensors to keep it at the perfect afr?

Is heat soak an issue on N/A cars? Does it have an IAT sensor or ECTS and does it pull timing when engine get's heat soaked?

I ask this because the Ls1 guys run cooler thermostats and change the set points for the elec fans to keep heat soak to a min.

Long story short.... I think my new filters will really wake up this car...... as the stockers are filthy.... choked!

After pulling the air intake box... access to the intake manifold is VERY good.... it appears the blower install would be pretty straight forward.....

Heck installation of headers looks to be straight forward as well.

AND If you got really ballsy..... access to the heads looks straight forward also.

I'll have to read up on PTE's threads on his n/a progress and track times..... there is really something sexy about a low 12 sec n/a CLK

 

I ran the search a number of times but did not see any info on removing the baffles in our stock CLK55 air box?

Is there anything to be gained by cleaning up the inside of the air box with a dremel?

I could make quick work of any obstructions, but would like to know if anyone has tried this yet.

 

Also what are you guys doing for wgt reduction?

Is it just bolt-ons? lw battery, light wgt hood, lw wheels?

or are people actually removing sound deadening, swapping out factory seats for racing seats, removing bumper supports,

The fox mustang chassis can be reduced a ridiculous amount..... through removal of sound deadening... 80lbs, rear seat 50lbs, dog-bone on axle 8lbs, al driveshaft 10lbs, the hatch mustang starts out at 3250 and you can get it under 3k easily. BUT you sacrifice with more heat, more noise.

 

Regarding the first question, ECUs are usually in one of three modes (1) warm up, (2) open loop, and (3) closed loop. Warm up is exactly as it sounds. Open loop is map based. With regard to air fuel ratios, the oxygen sensors are only used by the ECU while in closed loop mode. ECUs go into closed loop mode when the coolant temperature sensor indicates the engine is warmed up, and when the engine is either at idle or at cruise.

In an NA application, heat soak is a problem in drag racing. Usually between runs. Road racing is a different animal. Consider this: at 5000 RPM, using 80% VE, a non-boosted 5.5 liter engine is ingesting air at the rate of 384 cubic feet per minute. One cubic foot is equal to 28.3 liters, so that's 10,873 liters per minute, or 181 liters per second. If the intake air originates outside of the engine compartment, I'm not sure it would be in the airbox long enough to be heated.

There is an intake air thermosensor and Bosch has traditionally limited timing when the intake temperatures exceed a threshold.

 

Marcus- thanks for the tech. My EFI knowledge is based on the EECIV Ford EFI systems from the 90's.

Is there a good book on understanding my CLK55 EFI and ECU system?



A couple more questions if you don't mind:
1. Is the fuel system return style or returnless? Where is the fuel pressure regulator?
2. What is the normal fuel pressure? 38psi? Is it adjustable visa-vis adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
3. What size are the stock fuel inj?
4. What size is the stock MAS?
5. Does anyone offer larger MAS / fuel inj combo's?
6. Has anyone tried to bore out a MAS? This is an old EFI trick from the 90's.
7. On the EFI mustangs the choke point N/A is in this order: MAS, TB, Exhaust ports on heads, then intake. In the early days before there was a real aftermarket people were extracting HP with these mods:
a - bore the mas, Remove the screen from the MAS.
b - adjust the fuel pressure to trick the ECU to adj the AFR (lean it out)
c - remove the intake sound damper.... this gained 10hp..
d - ice the intake manifold between runs (drag racing)....
e - bump the timing (10-12 hp here) to the verge of deto....
f - port the stock heads (20 hp here) remove thermactor bumps on exh side.
g - install headers / aftermarket x-pipe with high flow cats / cat back.

What are the major choke points in our engines? My research shows this so far: (but I'm a nooooob to mb):
1. Stock air filters.
2. Stock air box.
3. MAS screens?
4. Headers
5. Secondary Cats - replace with 300 cel metal matrix
6. Tune - after all these mods. From my experience all tunes are not created equal. There a guru's who coax out every last HP/TQ while keeping the AFR happy from top to bottom....... and at varying engine loads..... and then there are the mail order tunes which can be hit or miss.

On the mustang EEC you can adjust the fuel pressure which will affect the AFR for a while.... until the computer learns around this "trick".

On the mustang EEC you can bump base timing visa vis the distributor and timing light. EEC timing curve will add 16deg on top of the base.

Will the MB ECU adapt to the above mods over time and negate the need for a "tune"?

How much HP can the stock fuel rails / fuel injectors handle? I'm guessing since the CLK55 is making 370 fwhp that the stock inj are 30 lb injectors or 38 lb injectors?

Are the stock CLK55 pistons cast or forged? Forged can handle the stress of boost better (if you have any deto).
Is the stock knock sensor capable of protecting our motor's from a bad tune and boost before damage occurs? I'm not hearing about people blowing head gaskets with boost on these boards like I do on the mustang boards. The typical mustang modder with a blower, keeps increasing boost without a proper tune until boom... head gasket blows, or worse, rear pistons are damaged.

How much HP can a CLK55 block handle? 500? 600? 1000?...... the 5.0 mustang block will literally split in half along the lifter valley above 550 fwhp.... this is a well known fact.... has anyone built the ultimate High HP AMG CLK55 motor?
: Stoker 383? Can this be done?
: Ported heads / intake / custom cams
: boost via centrifugal with after cooler........
If I had the choice between boost and a stroker I'd take the stock looking stroker..... a nice 383 - 400 cu would be sweet. Does anyone make a kit?

Is anyone running a HIGH mileage blown CLK55 combo? I generally find on the mustangs if you add boost to a high mlg specimen.... (75-100K miles) you accelerate it's demise..... bearing wear accelerates and the first signs are higher blow-by, and lower oil pressure...... to the point where oil pressure drops dangerously low at idle. What kind of mileage are people getting out of their mills after adding boost? How hard is it to freshen up a W113 motor? What does it cost to have it rebuilt - near bearings, oil pumps, honed, etc.....? Or should I not ask?

Pardon the MASSIVE deluge of questions.... I just had coffee

 

Those are more questions than I would like to address, but someone else may help you. You may hear about assorted HP tricks, but to go seriously fast and have longevity, “I think” you may want to call an established tuner. For a good example of a fast CLK, you want to search on a BlackBenzz. Unless I’m mistaken, he runs ten seventies at 125+.

It has a return style fuel system.

A lot of your questions surround the mass air flow sensor. Your car uses Bosch ME 2.8. With 2.8, the 430, 55, and 55K all use the same mass air flow sensor (part number 1130940048). I could be wrong, but I don’t think it’s a problem for your car.

AMG is a little more thorough than some other companies. Porting the heads and improving power throughout the rev range may be tough.

A good way to determine how much of an impact the air filters and/or air box has on performance is with a dyno or by making several quarter mile passes and recording the trap speeds. One run with everything in place, one without the filters, and a final one without the box. I suppose you could add three more passes and see how much of an impact the screens have.

I don’t believe the factory cats are a problem for my car. For your car, less than 300 CFM is needed. Pellet cats can flow more than 200 at 1 bar (not 1 bar of boost, just 1 bar). The CLK55 log style exhaust manifolds can definitely be improved upon. All W208 V8’s use the same exhaust manifolds. The 55 engine is 27% larger than the 430, yet it uses the 430 part. The 209 has the same issue - all V8’s use the same exhaust manifolds.

 

Just had my 2ndary cats installed with the 2.5" 300cel metal matrix..... what a difference in sound and performance. I'm very pleased with the immediate results. I understand the ecu will adjust to this free flowing cat over the next few days..... I'm amazed at how much better the car pulls now since I've installed new un-plugged air filters and installed these cats.

The sound is ever so slightly more pronounced AMG tone........ barely audible at idle / or cruise..... but nice and throaty at part/WOT. Looking forward to headers and tune next.

Next: headers / pulley / tune.

 

I was wondering if you have your original bumper markers? I need only the passenger side. Dealer is asking $47 ea. not worth it at all. I have paypall so let me know.

Nice looking car!

 

Palan - I'll hold onto the stock lights for now. I want to be sure I like the clear look.

Just made an appointment with MotorWerks in H-town for headers/tune.

I see LSD / supercharger in my future...... oh the humanity.

I'm hoping for an 11 sec CLK when it's all said and done

 

congrats! def a goodfind!

ive always liked the CLK55 AMG's i seriously wouldnt mind owning one.

if anything i prefer the 2005 CLK55 AMG Coupes, coz thats the only year they came with QUADexhaust!

Keep up posted man!

 

Let me know if you decide to stay with the clear ones and maybe you can sell me your original ones..

 

Just got the car back from Motorwerks in Houston.

Headers, tune, LSD, de-curb rashed all wheels, tint, service trans / brakes / brake fluid. I'm loving this car.

Today I got a CEL...... and it shows the MAS is bad. I cleaned the element and the car would run, but stumble off of idle, and then throw the MAS code again after I cleared it.

I'm guessing Autohaus is the rec place to get parts around here right guys?

THX>..

 

damn that's a good price.

btw your wife got the c63? I would suggest a quick trade.

 

Congrats on your new ride!

 

Thanks for the kind words and support.

Yeah wife's C63 is a DIFFERENT ANIMAL all together!

We both agree we'd rather the CLK55 for long trips due to the C63 pp option it's a bit rough. But for around town what blast.

The AMS Headers, 300 cel 2ndary cats, filters, and tune really work this up.

I haven't had much of a chance to play with the LSD yet.... due to the MAS.

I ordered some things from autohaus: Bosch MAS, New Cam Reference Sensor (just to be safe), new fuel filter, and the green filters, and a the proper jacking puck.

Cheers

 

I've been reading this thread and i am glad that there are still people who believe in the w209 and would rather upgrade it with new parts rather then upgrading to another car
I have had my car for 2 years now got an engine change after blowing the original one and when getting a new engine I got kleemann headers and eisenmann exhaust added on and I love it!!!!
I am planning on finishing it off with a supercharger, cams and LSD by the end of June so let me know where ur progress gets to because I am excited to see the results on ur car

plus reading this thread gave me a lot of new ideas and explained a lot of thing that I was confused about keep up the great work!

 

Hami - it's me and you brother!!! modding this OLD platform. I'm really enjoying this car as a touring machine..... it's not an autocrosser, it's not a drag car, it's not a track car... it's just a fun grand touring car to tote my **** to/from work 26 miles each way in some of the worst traffic on the planet..... the fact that I could crack off a low13 sec 1/4 mile is just icing on the cake....

I'll post up a new pic soon with the stock wheels refinished, and the tint and clear side markers and the cf lip.

Man the sound this motor makes with the headers/cats/tune is just music..... AMS was correct in that you should do the exhaust mods in this order and see what level of sound you're happy with:
1. 2ndary cats 300 cell..... slightly louder with more pronounced throaty
2. Headers..... slightly louder again (same magnitude) but this time more of a deeper tone until the high revs where it sounds exotic..... to my ears. I actually like the sound of my clk with the ex mods better than my wifes stock C63..... Her car is bad to the bone..... but I don't always want to sound like a 71 road runner .....

 

isn't that a little bit strange? an 04 with less 20k miles?

you really are a lucky guy to get all those goodies... 3yrs of warranty for an ///AMG

i dunno if it's just me but... I think c63 really is for girls.. lol..

coupe = for hunks..

4 or 5 doors = for girls or moms...

No offense intended....

 

Installed my new $145 Bosch MAS, removed the codes with my accutron OBD II code scanner...... and WAHLAHHHH no more codes and car runs like new.
I went with NEW paper filters too. My MAS died pretty much right after I installed the new Moroso Cool Blue oiled filters.... perhaps they were over oiled from the factory.... but I'm cured of aftermarket filters for now. It seems these benz mAS or sensative to oil..... My mustangs ran heavily oil soaked K&N's for years with no ill effects.....

I'll have a set of new green filters for CLK55 for sale AND a set of Moroso Cool Blue filters for CLK55 for sale next week.... hit me up if you want these for 50% off.

I'm soo pleased to get to drive my new baby again... it's been almost 3 weeks since it went in for service and then the mas crap out..... so I get to drive her to work tomorrow....... joy oh joy

 

good to hear that your problem is solved. have fun with your car!

 

I need a new grill / star / and grill support...... is there a good place to buy these parts...... or do I have to visit my friendly dealership for the "special treatment" :?

 

Good find and Congrats on the new car!

You should be able to get those parts from parts.com if you can't find any used ones floating around the classifieds or eBay. I bought the star a while back from parts.com and it was around $50 .

 

Interested in those Green Filters whenever your ready!!!

 

Green Filters.. new with cleaning/recharge kit: $65 + Shipping lower 48 states. I just paid $52 * 2 + price of cleaning kit.

1st person to paypal $77 to my paypal get's them: paypal addy - betrezra@aol.com.

Cheers,

Also have a set of moroso cool blue cloth element filters..... how about $35 shipped in the lower 48 states? Comes with both sides for the CLK55. W209.