Riot Nrrrd

My 2002 W208 CLK55 Cabriolet has suddenly developed a hiccup that I've never had happen before.

I went to put the top up just now and it got all the way to the end of the cycle - where the front end flops down and is ready to be pulled down and shut by the handle - and it just ... stopped.

No "ding" as I expected. No red light on the switch going off. If I continue to hold the switch down, it just starts to flash red. I tried to open the trunk and it wouldn't let me. (No, the trunk wasn't ajar.)

So I put the top back down and it did "ding" at the end of that cycle, and I was able to open the trunk. But when I tried to put the top back up ... same thing. No "ding", no cycle completion. I am able to pull the hood down and twist it into the shut position ... but why the heck is it stopping at the 99% mark?!?

bobbyjo9

I would suspect a problem with the lock in the rear deck

Riot Nrrrd

Me too - as if it's not "clicking" into place at the very end of the cycle.

Which to me means it's probably dangerous to drive in that state - right?

bobbyjo9

Well... I wouldn't call it dangerous but also wouldn't call it good. Without the rear locking down you wont have a good seal for one and the front will not align properly either. Wind noise and possible seal wear is probably all you'll get. A star machine will tell you any open micro switches but I would just pull the inside cover and inspect... least it's easy to get to.

Riot Nrrrd

A "star machine" - that is some diagnostic tool at the stealership, I presume?

Not sure what you mean by "pull the inside cover and inspect" - inside cover of ... ?

bobbyjo9

yes.. star machine at dealership will show the open micro. I dont think the hand held devices have that capacity. I was referring to inside trim cover of the rear hatch where the lock for the top is. Just start the opening procedure till the top stows then stop with the rear cover still open. Remove all the plastic tabs and lower the interior carpet trim. You'll see the lock mechanism. Check for any hydraulic leaks or loose broken wires. If you haven't lubed it before... now would be a good time to take care of that.

Riot Nrrrd

Ah, OK, I see what you mean now ... thanks for the tip!

Riot Nrrrd

Update: Stealership saying it's the Control Switch for the whole top, not just the lock. An $800 part!

Mercury (Extended Warrantee) is coming out to check it out tomorrow ... sure hope they cover that one.

Other things found ... ball joints bad (creaking noise front left) ... lifters possibly bad and making noise (apparently driving 15,000 miles in 8+ years isn't often enough ) - but Mercury will also look at that too. $400 just to open the thing up and get at the valves and lifters to have a look

Starting to get the idea that after my extended warrantee runs out (in early 2011) it might be time to let the ol' gal go

bobbyjo9

Let us know if that fixes the problem... $800 for a switch doesn't make sense. If the switch were bad I would expect no action from it. That $$ sounds more like the controller but then that sounds too cheap.

Riot Nrrrd

Sorry bobbyjo9 ... didn't know anyone else had replied. Oops.

Yes the control switch (or whatever it was) replacement did the trick ... my top is back happily locking properly with "ding".

Unfortunately the stealership was not so good when it came to my front left end creaking noise ... they replaced the ball joints and the engine mounts (supposedly) and it's still creaking like crazy

To make matters worse after they finished with it now I have a brand-new noise ... sounds like it's coming from the actual hood itself, it's almost like a rapid click/dripping sound when in motion (doesn't happen when at idle). Grrrr ...

2 months left 'til the extended warranty runs out. Hmmn ...

bobbyjo9

Well with the weather we've been having, glad to hear you got the top fixed! As for the creaking, have you tried lubing the sway bar mounts? Sorry but got no ideas on the hood noise