Hi 400, congrats on keeping the AMG alive and strong! Have you determined that the damage to the old engine was from premature detonation? If so what do you think caused it? I know the original computer has a knock sensor program which should prevent this kind of damage. Did your new used engine with 70K have any work done on it or is it all original? Hope all is well with the project!!!

 

Rev, I'm still not 100% sure what caused the ring to get punched out. Who knows . I still think it was becuase my MAF, Coil Pack and spark Plug failed under 5500 rpms at the same time. I'll post pictures after I take off the crank pulley and pop it open and yank out the pistons. As far as internals on my new engine, all AMG. I replaced a lot of the parts though with OEM.

Heres what I am going to purchase for my suspension. Anyone reccomend anything else? Is there better ball joints and such I can use?

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._D18BD03A.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...6-a2e137f34d7f

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...e-8b7917d9983a

And then I decided to go with the poly mount:

http://store.lpdautoparts.com/9401--...029401202.html

And I got StopTech SS Brake Lines

 

The attached photo is for a CLK430 and the 55 differs a little. The splash shield is item number 2 in the photo. Per Mercedes, the CLK55 takes a special part, which may be why you're having trouble finding it. The 55 takes a 2104210298 on the right side and a 2104210198 for the left. The AMG part has a list price of $105 but is commonly found for $80.

 

Lemforder are good, they are what I bought and installed (ball joints and tie rod ends) I also have the Stoptech SS brake lines and love them

As far as the bushings and eccentric bolts I opted for the K-MAC kit. They offer MUCH more adjustment than the OEM eccentrics and replace the bushing as well. Only problem is the kit is about $380

 

Yup found it. $80 wow.

 

I just got my K-MACs in the mail last week. Just waiting to get time to install them. Im impressed with the quality ofnthese bushings With shipping it was $500 for mine and 3 weeks to get them. They're expensive, but they're cheaper than buying new front tires all the time.

 

Look at these... Both are poly at a good price

http://stores.autowearhouse.biz/-str...MBZ/Detail.bok

 

I replaced the large rears only with the poly bushings. Fronts were fine so I left them be. The eccentric bolts you have now, rely on that special washer to locate them. The shoulder on the washer off sets the bolt in or out depending on whats required. Basically you get a +/- with that configuration and a neutral location with that other bolt you have pictured.

 

Heres a update on my tear down. This is what Ive done so far:


Engine Swap
Wiring Harness
Transmission Bolts
New Seals
New EGR System
Throttle Body
Throttle Position Sensor
New Wipers
New A/C Compressor
Valve Cover Gasket (Left/Right)
Breather Gaskets (Left/Right)
Transmission Flush
Transmission Filter and Plug Change
Differential Fluid Change
Brake Fluid Flush
Cabin Filter
Air Filters
Collant System flush
Thermostat
Serp Belt
Idler Pulley
Spark Plugs
Wires
Coil Packs
Fuel Filter
Motor mount
Trans Mount
Exhaust Rubber Hangers
Crank/Camshaft Sensors
Power Steering Flush
Drag Link
Front Lower Control Arm Poly Bushing
Front Wheel Bearings
Tie Rods
Upper Ball Joint
Upper Control Arm
Lower Ball Joint
New Tires (Nitrogen Filled)
Refurbished Dents in Rims
MAF
Brake Switch
New Front Window
New Front Bumper
Carbon Fiber Hood
Carbon Fiber Pillars
Carbon Fiber Grille
Polished Paint Job
Repainted Suspension/Calipers
AMG pedals

I'm sure I'm missing some stuff. My next project is getting rid of all the dirt/oil build up on the car. I found a place that does it. Kinda costly - $500. But they take 3 days to do it.

Then I'll be doing my exhaust system next, then new head lights and tail lights and after that I'm calling it a day. I'm about $9k deep into the car already.

What I'm trying to do is make it look like it was just bought new. I don't know how close I'll be able to get to that but we'll see. The body is 99% and the paint job makes it look new already. So I'm getting close...

After all this I think I'll be able to enter it into some car shows... Crossing Fingers...

 

I ordered everything. But I got a few question. I decided to go with the poly mounts.

What kind of oil do I use to oil the poly bushing before I put it in the control arm?

What part of the bushing do I oil?

What kind of grease do I use to lube the wheel hub and the wheel hub bearings??

Thanks guys!!!

 

I got done with cleaning and repainting one side. I got everything in the mail as well. Next step is to put it all back together. I can't believe how dirty everything was!! The picture of the glove was just about 3 minutes of cleaning. I went through about 50 pairs of gloves.

Before and after pics.

 

You only need lube the outer part of the bushing to get it to slip into place. It pivots on the bolt contacting the the metal sleve. The bushing itself stays static in relation to the control arm. Ive had zero squeek since install over a year ago. The wheel bearings take a special green goo available over the counter at your local dealer. I dont recall the cost but it's good stuff and I believe in the 20 buck range for the tube. If you pack the bearings properly one tube will be enough for both sides but they call for one tube per side. Dont forget forget new inner seals on the hubs.

 

The poly bushing fit perfect!

 

Hey, Guys. Just found this forum and it sounds like 400hp is doing some of the things I need to get done. I've wrenched on a lot of American cars but this is my first foray into MB. Car is a 2002 CLK55 with only 32K miles and I need to do the front brakes, lower ball joints, wheel bearings, motor mounts, and the rear main seal is leaking. Thanks to all of you for the info above; I can use a good bit of it. Since my efforts pertain to the general topic of the complete teardown, shall I post my questions here or start a new thread? Thanks!

 

Welcome aboard Moxford. You may want to start a new thread.

Looking at your list, the only difficult thing I see on your list is the rear main leak. It's somewhat common. Mine went out while under factory warranty so the dealer fixed it. Since it was covered I have no idea what they charge but it was ready in a day (in that morning when they discovered it was leaking and out that night). You may want to also check your flex discs, steering gear bolts, and let me stop before jacking this thread any further.

 

Finally got done with most of it. All I got left is the wheel hub/bearing and reassemble the brakes/stainless steel lines. About 30 minutes worth of work and one side will be done.

The fricken tie rod was a PITA because I stripped out the allen socket trying to get it to tighten

Before and after pics.

Welcome Moxford!

MarcusF, feel free to jack the thread your knowledge is welcome!

 

Have been following this thread and find you are doing a great job
I've order K-Mac bushings front and rear, but I guess I will be doing the change over the next winter because I want to get my 43 back on the road before next fall

 

Hi and welcome aboard
I find it rather weird that you need to be doing all this work with a vehicle which is supposedly with only 32k miles on the clock. Brakes I can understand, but the wheel bearings, engine mounts, etc. should be done after having driven some serious miles.
Good luck

 

Thanks! I couldn't do it without all your help!

I'm awaiting parts for my suspension, so I decided to clean out my head lights and polish them inside and out. I guess there are more parts to our head lights than I thought

 

The front now looks like a toothless Grandma Looks like it also needs a nice cleaning

 

Ya I sure do need to clean it ha. Its way worse than the picture!

I've been messing with the wheel hub assembly and the bearings and such. I did some reading and changing the bearings and seals and such looks like a PITA. Plus the bearings and such cost about $90 and then the grease is like $20. So around $100-110 to replace all the bearings and such.

I was looking at just saving me the headache and forking out $150 for a whole new hub assembly and bearing. Do you guys know if this comes with everything I need to just slap it on?

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...Hub%20Assembly

Or do you guys know where I can find a wheel hub with everything I need to replace it already assembled?

I had one more question about the wheel hub. When I put the wheel hub back on I read that the clamping nut has to be adjusted with a Magnetic Dial Indicator. Can I put it on without the special tool? I don't want to put the wheel hub back on and then have a serious issue driving

Thanks a ton guys!!!!

 

$90 for a set of bearings Are they gold plated Mine cost me around $50 equivalent here for both wheels.

Changing the bearings is a messy and greasy job. Having access to a workshop vice is essential to hold the hub assembly.
After having removed the hub, you need to change the outer (small diameter) and inner bearing races (larger diameter) too. Taking them out is not to much of a problem. The inner grease O ring seal can be prised out as it will be replaced. After that, you can use a chisel or something solid and tap out gently the races working from the inside. Be careful not to damage (scratch) the hub surface. After removal of the races, clean fully the hub assembly so as to remove the old grease and possible metal contaminants. That done, you are ready to replace the innards with new races. Gently place the new one in position nice and square (yes it is tight) and place the old race upside down to use as a guide on which you can tap gently to help the new race go in square. Use a solid piece of wood between your hammer and the old race. Once in, place the big inner bearing (having greased it fully and turning it at the same time so the grease gets into all the corners of the bearing) the right way in, then place your grease O ring and tap in gently using the same piece of wood to protect the O ring. Once that is done, turn the hub in your vice and fill the innards of the hub with plenty of MB green bearing grease and install the smaller outer bearing race using the same method as described above. Pack you bearing with grease and assemble the hub on the axle spindle. The spindle should have been cleaned of old grease and cr*p prior final assembly. Place the outer bearing washer and finally the nut which has an allen bolt on the side. Tighten the big nut so it no longer loose. You may find the hub needs some persuasion for the rear O ring to pass the final 1/10inch or so as it is new. After that is done, tighten the outer bearing nut until the hub no longer turns, then back of slightly to give it some free movement. The dial indicator is the recommended way to adjust the free play in the bearing, but the "manual" way is also sufficient if you do it correctly. Remember, not too tight and not too free. Then block the allen head bolt without turning the big end nut. it is also recommended to check again after driving around a couple of miles, to check the correct tightness.
Put some grease around the net and spindle and tap in gently the outer bearing cover. Job done
I have not experienced placing the bearing races for 24h in a freezer before assembling in the hub. You could perhaps place the races directly in the hub without taping them in. It is worth a try though....

 

Thanks so much!!!!!! Can u post a picture of what all I need to replace please. I'm not sure which bearings to buy or what the outter race is. Thanks again man HUGE help!!

 

I'll try and find something your u tomorrow...

 

Did a Google search using "W202 bearing replacement", choose videos and found this (among others) on YouTube. It is similar stuff on a w208 :