slow crank start-up. 2006 CLK55
05-01-2014, 10:07 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
slow crank start-up. 2006 CLK55
hi all,
just noticed that sometimes it takes 1-2 seconds before my car engine turns over and starts. can't quite isolate whether it's while engine is cold or warm, but sometimes even after i release the key on the ignition turn, there appears to be a 1/2 second delay.
from my prior MBs, i'm thinking it could be:
battery
alternator
MAF
starter
any thots would be welcome.
PL
just noticed that sometimes it takes 1-2 seconds before my car engine turns over and starts. can't quite isolate whether it's while engine is cold or warm, but sometimes even after i release the key on the ignition turn, there appears to be a 1/2 second delay.
from my prior MBs, i'm thinking it could be:
battery
alternator
MAF
starter
any thots would be welcome.
PL
05-02-2014, 02:14 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
One easy thing to consider - how old is the battery? Some will use a battery forever. Out of sight, out of mind I guess. Low voltage can cause very odd electrical issues, and this sounds odd.
05-02-2014, 02:33 PM
#6
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Totally agree Marcus, some driving MB cars will suffer through numerous issues while using a battery that has passed it useful life expectancy, if your battery is over 5 years old, start thinking about replacement, some have seen issues with alternators and regulators and functions shutdown and warnings galore only to find out their bat is 7 or 8 or 9 years old, original. Those with SBC braking do not seem to know that their front battery can be scrap but the alternator is keeping the braking system alive until that day when the alt fails and they have no brakes. Just because the car starts does not mean all is well in the battery department. IMO
05-03-2014, 10:54 AM
#7
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2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Good response from good members,
The Battery, Alternator, Starter question can become a vicious circle.
I would start by having the battery load checked, the terminals must be clean and the cells full of electrolyte. (acid,water). If a lead cell has been exposed to oxygen from low fluid the battery is going to fail.( electrolysis degrades the plates and the waste collects into the sediment chamber at the bottom). short circuited cells.
Any value below 10.4v while cranking is indication of a bad battery.
A failing starter will drain a battery fast. When suspecting the starter put a booster on the main battery and test the voltage drop. Current drop testing is better but these high amp DC testers are more $ than a new starter. Consider the age of the starter and battery condition before committing. If the starter is getting hot by touch on a cold engine while attempting to crank it is likely toast.
The alternator/regulator on these cars work great but when the brushes start to wear, intermittent charging problems occur. The regulator w brush assembly is an easy fix and inexpensive but not always successful when the commutator rings are burnt and scored. If the alternator is not putting at least 13.8v @ 1000 rpm with a known good battery then fix or replace. An overcharging alternator w 14.5v @ 1000 rpm is going to boil all the acid out of your battery starting the viscos circle all over again.
Cheers, Gator
The Battery, Alternator, Starter question can become a vicious circle.
I would start by having the battery load checked, the terminals must be clean and the cells full of electrolyte. (acid,water). If a lead cell has been exposed to oxygen from low fluid the battery is going to fail.( electrolysis degrades the plates and the waste collects into the sediment chamber at the bottom). short circuited cells.
Any value below 10.4v while cranking is indication of a bad battery.
A failing starter will drain a battery fast. When suspecting the starter put a booster on the main battery and test the voltage drop. Current drop testing is better but these high amp DC testers are more $ than a new starter. Consider the age of the starter and battery condition before committing. If the starter is getting hot by touch on a cold engine while attempting to crank it is likely toast.
The alternator/regulator on these cars work great but when the brushes start to wear, intermittent charging problems occur. The regulator w brush assembly is an easy fix and inexpensive but not always successful when the commutator rings are burnt and scored. If the alternator is not putting at least 13.8v @ 1000 rpm with a known good battery then fix or replace. An overcharging alternator w 14.5v @ 1000 rpm is going to boil all the acid out of your battery starting the viscos circle all over again.
Cheers, Gator
