CLK W209 55 MOTOR MOUNTS
#1
Member
Thread Starter
CLK W209 55 MOTOR MOUNTS
HELLO!
Just did Motor mounts on my CLK W209 55
What a difference! can't even feel my engine !
And MPG Are way better. And the car handles with more precision and the suspension has more comfort.
Feels like a complete tune up!
Just did Motor mounts on my CLK W209 55
What a difference! can't even feel my engine !
And MPG Are way better. And the car handles with more precision and the suspension has more comfort.
Feels like a complete tune up!
#2
Super Member
nice! was it a DIY? how many miles does your car have?
#3
Member
Thread Starter
#4
Super Member
#5
Member
Thread Starter
took me a good 4 hours...
You need to remove the exhaust from the headers and locate the bolts securing the mounts.
4 bolts, 1 on top and another in the bottom of each mount.
their is quite not enough room for leverage I use a 5/8 to remove the top bolts
You need to remove the exhaust from the headers and locate the bolts securing the mounts.
4 bolts, 1 on top and another in the bottom of each mount.
their is quite not enough room for leverage I use a 5/8 to remove the top bolts
Trending Topics
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W208 CLK55 AMG, W203 C32 AMG, W163 M Class Sport
I managed to change the motor mounts on my W208 without pulling any part of the exhaust. The W209 may be a different process.
I removed the transmission mount and jacked up the engine from the oil pan using 2 blocks of wood to cushion the lifting point and distribute force. After raising the engine about 5 inches I had plenty of space to access the top bolts on the motor mounts.
When I changed mine at 105k the drivers side mount was torn and had dumped out most of its fluid. The passenger side mount was cracking and beginning to leak. The transmission mount appeared ok visually but for $27 for Lemforder I changed it anyway.
I also had the drag link out which made the lower bolt on the motor mounts easily accessible with a ratchet. The drag link was by far the worst to remove. I had to use a pickle fork which worked on the outer tie rods. The two inner bolts took a truck bearing puller to get loose since I didn't have the Mercedes tool the WIS called for.
I removed the transmission mount and jacked up the engine from the oil pan using 2 blocks of wood to cushion the lifting point and distribute force. After raising the engine about 5 inches I had plenty of space to access the top bolts on the motor mounts.
When I changed mine at 105k the drivers side mount was torn and had dumped out most of its fluid. The passenger side mount was cracking and beginning to leak. The transmission mount appeared ok visually but for $27 for Lemforder I changed it anyway.
I also had the drag link out which made the lower bolt on the motor mounts easily accessible with a ratchet. The drag link was by far the worst to remove. I had to use a pickle fork which worked on the outer tie rods. The two inner bolts took a truck bearing puller to get loose since I didn't have the Mercedes tool the WIS called for.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W208 CLK55 AMG, W203 C32 AMG, W163 M Class Sport
#12
Junior Member
I replaced the motor mounts today on the W209 without dropping the exhaust,
Ended up loosening the steering rack and cooling lines along with the stabilizer bar. Drivers side was very tight but was able to wiggle the old one out and get the new one in, passenger side was very easy. I used a low profile snap-on 16mm socket along with a stubby gear wrench, doubt if I could have done it without those 2 tools.
Ended up loosening the steering rack and cooling lines along with the stabilizer bar. Drivers side was very tight but was able to wiggle the old one out and get the new one in, passenger side was very easy. I used a low profile snap-on 16mm socket along with a stubby gear wrench, doubt if I could have done it without those 2 tools.