Ok so I just bought this car used and I'm desperate for help. I have read many of the threads on resetting the roll bar which I bought a hex tool and I'm able to do it but I don't want to keep doing it. Today was the worst, the car kept deploying it back after I would reset it and turn the car back on. Let me provide some more details below:

1. Since I have owned the car, I get the roll bar yellow light on the dash. Roll bars are down. I can drive/raised top or lower with no problem.

2. I turned on the car and noticed the light was off. The roll bars spontaneously deployed for no apparent reason.

3. The deployment kept happening repeatedly until finally after resetting and turning the car back on, the roll bar light was on the dash again.

4. After a reset, if I manually raise the roll bars and hit the headrest button on the dash, the roll bars will drop.

5. When the roll bars do deploy spontaneously, I notice an audible click followed by the hazard lights coming on as if it is trying to reseat them.


Questions:

1. Is there a fuse I can pull to totally disable and bypass the roll bar feature?

2. Is this an expensive fix? (Car is not my daily driver thank god)

3. Is this something I just have to deal with being that it is a 2007 model?


I apologize if my post was not easy to follow. I tried my best.

Me vs the roll bar =

 

It needs to be tested by someone with STAR,

Yaw sensor or something in the wheel speed sensors.

It is designed to deploy when at least 3 wheels have come airborne for x amount of ms. A CLK 63 this should be easy and fun.
other thought is someone jacked the car up or towed it improperly and damaged something like cabling underneath.
best not removing fuses for safety devices, Get er checked properly for life sake.

Cheers, Gator

By the way welcome aboard.

 

The toolbar on my SL kept deploying and I had to have it hooked up to the Star diagnostics and reset. Never had them deploy on my CLK, but I would guess it's the same fix

 

So I would like to update where I stand on this issue. I've been doing a ton of online research and there's a ton of information that doesn't seem to apply to 2007 model year. So to provide further details:

• I reset the roll bar with hex tool i bought at home depot. The roll bar light on the dash would stay on but no deployment for quite sometime.
• Recently the light cleared on the dash and the roll bar would deploy right after turning the car on without moving. Just sitting in park.
• I got fed up and checked the fuse box and found the diagram. I removed and replaced Fuse 41. The fuse i took out had some darkening in the center.
• Roll bar light went away on startup of car. Now I notice that the roll bar randomly deploys after awhile of driving. Hazard lights will flash intermittenly after a long period of time. At one point it would happen frequently, causing me to hit the hazard button on the car to shut if off repeatedly as I drive.
• I have scheduled to take car to dealer finally but they want $165 JUST to scan the car/diagnose.

I have got to believe there has to be some way to reset this or troubleshoot this issue without having to take this car to the dealer.

 

So further update:

After a trip to the dealer with the car. They came up with the following details:

RVC Code B1991. Tilt Cone Sensor Faulty. Needs New RVC Control Unit. <- Soft Top Controller.

I have a hard time buying this as when I reset the roll bars, I have complete controll of the soft top & if I manually raise the bars and press button on dash, they drop with no issue...

Rest of my car issues I totally am aware of and will address. Any thoughts on the above? Experts?

 

Hmmm A fuse that is wearing out and not blowing.

My Cooling Fan circuit does this and the current load on the circuit is normal. I found the fingers that hold the fuse and the cables were the culprit. This is a high amp fuse for a twin fan setup. Replaced the Connectors and fuse holder.

I doubt the Soft top controller is bad. It should be accessible through star. Start with the cone sensor and report.

The roll bars are controlled by the soft top hydraulic pump on my car but it takes inputs from SRS systems and Status from ESP.
With star one will have to observe faults stored in each system. If the soft top works leave it be.
Never heard the term tilt cone sensor but it is a start. That could be the anti towing sensor for Central Locking System. Host of new symptoms will occur when this fails.
I have tilted a few cones auto-crossing but that's another story.

Cheers, Gator

 

It's funny you mention this part because my Driver-side keyless go does not work. The key barely works to unlock that door, I have to be right on it and press/hold it multiple times. I've already swapped the key batteries out. No change.

I disconnected the battery now for about 4 hours this morning, about to reconnect it and see if there's any change.

Also of note, looking at my fuse diagram, the Central Locking interior switch shares the same fuse #41 as the Rear head release which I believe is tied to the roll bar.

 

So the update to this... nope. Same issue. Car computer seemed like it saved everything, i disconnected both battery terminals for 4 hours, everything popped back on like nothing happened.

1. I can use my keyfob to lower and raise the top with no problem.
2. When I start the car, no headrest light warning, all looks clean and normal and then BOOM headrest pops up within seconds.

I'm about to break down and just buy the control unit. Is there anything special about installing this that the dealer has to do it or is it something that I can buy myself and is strictly plug and play, no STAR required?

 

You are at will to spend what you want. I am relating to 2002 status quota for the control sequence of operations.
Not much has changed in controller dynamics just user interface.

Disconnecting the battery will only reset the ECU/TCU any faults in the many micro controllers in the car must be manually removed by STAR. As mentioned by others above.

Best of Luck

PS: most of the controllers are coded to the VIN of the car and it takes STAR dev with a subscription to do this.

 

Soft top module is not coded to the vehicle. You could take a used module and slap it in there if you wanted

 

Thanks for the info. I've knocked out everything possible from a fuse standpoint..

Replaced:

7. Active Head restraint (weird i thought it fixed the problem last night, was able to drive the car for a good 7 minutes before the roll bars redeployed.
8. Anti-theft alarm (I replaced it by mistake but was a good thing because when i took fuse out it was definitely blown)
41. Rear head release (Covers SEVERAL items but specifically replaced because of RHR. Noticed the fuse had some darkening inside as if it was about to blow.
28. Soft top (figured to give this a try)

I know this car has some issues. I think in the interest of cost my next step is to buy a used Soft Top Controller module and swap it. I'm curious as to the difficulty to get to the part. I figure its located relatively close to the rear fuse box, does anyone have a picture or video of it's location? I've looked all over the internet and seem to only see stuff related to w208.

 

 

Naaa! Mate this is what it is supposed to look like!!!



I was testing the nav system after purchace.

Har, Har.

Running two Kenwood amps soon to be shelved under the luggage guard to make room for an Ice tank heat exchanger.

Best, Gator

 

Damn that's messy lol. Make sure the module bolted down so you don't end up popping roll bars like TS

 

LOL, thanks for the pics, greatly appreciated and I needed a good laugh after all this as well. I definitely bought a car that needs some semi serious mechanical restoration. Fortunately I'm willing to stomach doing the critical work.

I'll take my trunk a part sometime this week to examine what's going on behind the walls and order the controller. I'll keep yall posted.

 

So to provide updates.. I purchased 2098206526 Soft Top Controller through a junkyard for $200 vs paying $1045 at the dealer. I will give props to the dealer for at least giving me the part number when I asked for it initially. That is the LATEST soft top controller. Any of the other serial numbers will work but they are older so purchase at your own risk. I pulled out of my car 2098205026.

So far it looks like this has solved my problem. No longer have the light or spontaneous deployment. I am going to take the car for a spin during my lunch break to confirm but so far it looks all good. Couple of points below:

1. It is MODERATE difficulty in getting to this part inside the trunk but it can be done with a flathead screw driver, a T30 bit, a ratchet wrench with no. 10.
2. I did not have to remove too much of the trim, i pulled what i could and pushed it aside to keep it as simple as possible.
3. If you're comfortable removing a hard-drive from a tower computer shell, then this should be an easy job, do NOT take car to dealer and have them charge you 3 hours of labor for this swap.
4. You do have to unbolt the rack/tray that houses this controller to lift it up to get to the 3rd inside bolt that holds the controller down. The first two nuts are on the outside and easily accessible.
5. The cable that snaps in with a lever on the left if NOT plugged in all the way, your windows may not work *rear windows for me* and you will get the ugly roll bar light and no softtop operation. Once i went back in there and made sure I got that cable in all the way and snapped back into place, everything worked perfectly.


I hope that anyone else who ever runs across this or similar softtop issues will look at this thread/steps and I hope it is helpful to you.

Thanks everyone for the help and input.

 

Thanks for posting your solution...how many miles on your car btw?

 

I got it with about 70k on it.
Just a further update since installing new controller, it's been perfect. Issue resolved.