Chris Huynh

So, I'm running a Kleemann v2 Blower kit on my 2005 CLK55. With inline booster fuel pump set up. I'm keep getting fuel cut at random partial and wot sometime (kinda like hitting a wall effect). Purchased Split Second voltage clamp and set the high clamp at 4.89v and low clamp at .003v, question is on the maf wiring, 4 wire total. I measure it with a volt meter with key on engine off, and they as follow: 12v wire, ground wire, signal wire and a 5v wire. So the voltage clamp Red wire connect to the 12v, black wire to the ground, now for the blue and blue/white wire connect to the signal or 5v wire on the maf sensor? I wire it onto the signal wire and I still got the same problem, then wire it to the 5v wire and it does fine for about 2 weeks now same problem again!!!! It's getting frustrating!!! Anyone using maf clamp on their NA m113 Blower set up, please pitch in. Thank you...

2MCHCAR

I didn't install my Kleemann Kit myself, but I do remember Cory saying that they tapped the wires inside the fuse box in the engine compartment. Reviewing the install manual (attached to this response), it says:

Kleemann Air Mass resistor
(Air mass resistor is only needed on 5 speed gearbox or without EMS.)
Locate the yellow/white air mass lead and cut the wire. Then install the Kleemann resistor
between the wires. Doesn’t matter which lead goes where. When measuring, the voltage must
not exceed 4,85 volts when driving full throttle all the way to the gearshift. Exceeding 4,85 volts
could result in engine damage. Always measure on the wire going towards the ECU (after
Kleemann resistor).( Only 5 speed gearbox or without EMS.)

So it looks like you set your voltage clamp too high (4.89 vs 4.85) and since you are trying to clamp voltage below 5V, I believe the 5V line is the appropriate line to tap (if the wire is yellow/white, then it aligns with the Kleemann instructions above).

I always reach out to Cory with questions like this, you might want to send him an email too.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Chris Huynh

Thank you.

Chris Huynh

Ok, so here the update. So I took your word and readjust my Split Second voltage clamp on the 5 volt wore down to 4.85v. So far, no hic-up or dead wall symptom. I'll keep you update in a week from now to see how it react. By the way, can I ask you a question? Did Cory / Brandon at Kleemann USA also tune your ECU after the supercharger installed or that was a separate service? Because I ask Brandon about ecu running after supercharging my CLK, he say that the kit was plug and play design back when it came out, but I can have my car ecu tune for more accurate air / fuel mixture.

2MCHCAR

Yes, I have a Kleemann ECU tune and a Eurocharged TCU tune; this was done separately and at a additional cost. In addition to the optimization for the Supercharger (Air/Fuel, Torque Settings), I also wanted to switch off the downstream O2 since I'm running MBH Headers. In my opinion, you should get at least the ECU Tune.

Chris Huynh

Hmmm... that's interesting, they didn't have to dyno tune the ecu with the blower on the vehicle. How can that be accurate? But I've heard a lot of kleemann user do that and it work great... if deleting the downstream o2 in the tune, will that effect emission testing? My next step is kleemann header the the ecu...

GatorMB

Useful info thanks folks
I will be running 3v ref for inputs on a secondary MAF and controller.
Programming in progress.

Best, Gator

Chris Huynh

Hi GatorMB, how are you setting that up? Meaning, how do you run a secondary maf? Please chime in... thanks

Chris Huynh

Ok... so a little over a week after I have set my maf clamp down to 4.85v from 4.89v... NO fuel cut / hit the wall symptom during on load. She ran like a champ every time.... again, thank you so much for the info.... cheers

GatorMB

Hi Chris
You guys are running a kleeman blower. I am using an AMG W211 Blower.
The AMG blower is a bit different. It has a bypass valve to control boost.

My MAF circuit is for an enable. I will use a pressure transducer for bp valve control.
Still setting up the hardware I/O.
Once the install is completed I will likely construct a custom fresh air intake pipe for installation of the secondary MAF.
Once the bench testing is completed I will start a thread on it for others to clone if desired,
FUN, FUN, FUN

Best, Gator

Chris Huynh

Ohhh wow... that's cool... I also own a w211 E55 (barely drive it) with the M113K motor. I believe the E55 M113K use a Twin Screw supercharger vs Kleemann Auto Rotor supercharger. Keep up the good work and PLEASE post up some pics!!!!!! That's gotta be a fun project.... here's my W211 E55...

brad_c43

took a look through your post history and couldnt find any info on this setup. would you be able to go into detail about your supercharger setup please? I would love to do a project like this

GatorMB

Hi Brad,
No thread hijacking here but I did not write the thread yet. I have written a quick control sequence of operation though and should start compiling soon.
Base BP valve positioning then modulation based on tune. No rushing into boosting a compression engine on pump gas. KISS
I did do a thread on the engine prep and its plum ready for abuse. (Timing Chain Fun)
Car is stuck on jack stands right now as the steering and suspension needed some attention. Missing todays Autocross as well.
You should see a technical post from me for the electronics soon after the holidays.
Best, Gator

ctravis595

Does anyone happen to know if there’s any difference for the maf sensor plugs with 5 wires instead of four? I do indeed see one of the 5 wires is a yellow/white...

randy1023

Please do, I have been tossing this around. If you could set up plans for the install that would be great

ctravis595

I have seen 550k ohm resistors as being the recommendation for 7-8 psi m113 setups for maf. However what wattage rating are these resistors? 1/4 watt? 1/2 watt?