Three days ago my MB started to stall on idle and accelerated randomly upon re-start. I verified yesterday that the negative cable on the battery was very loose. I removed the cable and cleaned it both negative and positive poles.
Then I realized I had probably resetted the ECU or something of that nature.
I searched this forum before reconnecting the batteries and found the instructions (below) on how to reset the ECU properly.
Followed the instructions and drove the car for a while to "train" the computer.
Returned home and 2 hours later left for work when in 4 miles, the Check Engine light came on and in a few miles it stalled at the traffic light and did no start for the frustration of the cars behind me...
After many tries, the car started but accelerated at random and sputtered when put in gear.
Made it home finally and had to rely on my old F350 to go to work.
Now I'm wondering if anyone can advise if this is a Computer issue or my disconnecting the battery made it worse. The no idle and sputtering was present Before I disconnected the battery.
The new issue came with the "Check Engine" light on, which was not present previously
Any advice will appreciated.
Thanks
Joe

Procedure from forum:
CLK ECU Reset Procedures

*** I highly recommend you take your ECU to a dealer to clear any faults. ****

The difference between having the dealer "reset your ECU and you doing it is that the dealer only clears the faults the ECU has on memory, when you reset your ECU, it must basically re-calibrate itself and learn about all your car's systems from scratch.


Preparation Steps:

1. Make sure your steering wheel is not turned to either side.
2. Make sure your windows are all the way up
3. Make sure your sun roof is completely closed
4. Make sure your parking brake is released
6. Turn off your stereo.
7. Make sure you have your stereo's Anti-theft code
8. Turn off your heat/AC blower
9. Turn off your lights
10. Make sure your doors are UNLOCKED.
11. READ THE WHOLE PROCEDURE BEFORE GETTING STARTED

Reset Steps:
Open your trunk and disconnect the negative side of your battery, wait 30 seconds and re-connect it back.

Post-Reset Steps

Turn the key to position 2 (DO NOT START YOUR ENGINE)

1. Resetting your windows: You only have ONE shot at this so you must not screw up. Bring down both windows at the same time by holding the switches just before the click that brings them down automatically. Once both windows are all the way down make both switches click by pressing them all the way down. This lets the ECU learn that that is the end of the window track and it records it in memory. Do the same closing the windows by holding both switches and making them click once the windows are all the way up.

2. Turn on your blower and make both sides go to 72 deg. by pressing both up and down buttons at the same time. This will calibrate the ECU

3. Turn on your stereo and enter you stereo code. If you don’t have it. You can forget about listening to the radio.

4. Pull the sun roof all the way back and all the way forward then up and then down

6. Turn all you lights on and off, including your fog lights

7. Turn the key back to position 0.

8. Turn on your engine. You will get 2 malfunctions; your ABS and ESP systems must be calibrated.

9. Calibrate your ABS and ESP systems by turning the steering wheel all the way to your RIGHT and then all the way to your LEFT. Then bring it back to the middle. Notice the two yellow lights disappear from you dashboard.

10. Let your car run in idle for about 5 minutes and then take it for a spin. Remember your ECU is still getting all the readings from all the sensors on your car so drive slowly first then faster... and so on... you are basically teaching your ECU how to handle your car.

 

did you re-attach positive cable to battery first which is the correct procedure?<br />or<br />did you re-attach negative cable first which is the incorrect procedure worst case scenario fry electronics on your car?

 

^^+1, with Dennis^^,

really no need to do all that,

it will directly affect to the most of Elec. parts,,

IMO; the simple & safe way to make proper reset by;

"pedal reset, or SDS/Star"..

-;ZAYED;-

 

Positive cable first,,,by sheer luck.
Joe

 

I've searched the forum for "pedal reset" procedure but couldn't find a sure answer. Could you please explain how this is done?
thanks
Joe

 

Just found this topic on reset, so disconsider previous request:

"THROTTLE RESET: If you're looking to get more throttle response out of your Mercedes, try resetting the throttle. Step on the gas pedal all the way down, then put your key in the ignition, turn it all the way to on, but don't start the car. Wait for 60-seconds, then turn the key off, and remove it from the ignition. This should reset your throttle. If you don't feel any difference in throttle response, you may want to try it again"

 

1) turned on ignition (position 2) without staring.

2) held gas pedal to the floor & keep hold it for 15 seconds.

3) turn off, release the pedal.

4) wait 2 minutes, to let ECU/TCU to reset completely.

start engine..

-;ZAYED;-

 

Fantastic, great information! Thank you so much!

 

Update on my CLk55:

Decided to purchase a new MAF sensor. Bought it from Amazon for $97.00 plus tax. Original Bosch (read some stories on that). Unit arrived in Bosch sealed box. At least it looked original with the Bosch name in the unit itself.
While installing MAF, noticed that the rubber ring from the air filter that attaches the MAF was torn in one spot.
Installed the MAF anyway and car is working great. Initially the Check Engine light was on but once I took it for a spin, the light came off.
The only thing a bit frustrating is the idle speed that goes down to about 500 when in gear (D). In park mode the idle goes up to about 800. I believe that too low @ 500 rpm.
Not sure its the cracked rubber ring in the air filter housing or other sensor that affects idle speed in gear.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Also if anyone knows the part number for that Rubber ring from the Air Filter housing that connects to the MAF, please let me know.

thanks folks and Merry Christmas to all

Joe Villar
2002 CLK55 AMG Cabriolet

 

vacuum leaks are the scourge of every mb I've owned. I've found they are most noticeable at idle.

 

Concerning vacum leaks, where should we look in the CLK 55 AMG? Are there frequent issues with some hoses?

Thanks!

Joe

 

Honestly I just buy some hard and soft tube and redo everything I can find.