Help: Trunk won't open
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Help: Trunk won't open
Hello,
I know this is somewhat common and I have searched the forums. I have made some progress but a bit stuck. My trunk stopped opening a day ago, a couple days after replacing a license plate light bulb - which requires pulling that top carpet down. Might be related.
Anyway, I luckily left the passenger back seat unlocked and got in and today was able to release the drivers side. I pulled the carpet back and been rooting around. I've read about a vacuum hose and also seen youtube videos where people reach in and pull up on something. This was done from the outside rear of the car but I feel like I have access to do this.
My 2,4 and 7 fuses are good. I can hear something trying to release when I use the fob or try to use the emergency release form inside the trunk. Seems like it is trying but jammed or stuck. Oh, and my FOB manual key only goes halfway in. I've lubricated the keyhole but gotten nowhere.
I am attaching a few pics of what I see. If anyone can tell me what to yank on or money with that would be awesome! Maybe that 3rd pic is the vacumn hose...the white one. The 2nd pic....that small white plastic thing looks like it could be part of the equation.
thanks!
I know this is somewhat common and I have searched the forums. I have made some progress but a bit stuck. My trunk stopped opening a day ago, a couple days after replacing a license plate light bulb - which requires pulling that top carpet down. Might be related.
Anyway, I luckily left the passenger back seat unlocked and got in and today was able to release the drivers side. I pulled the carpet back and been rooting around. I've read about a vacuum hose and also seen youtube videos where people reach in and pull up on something. This was done from the outside rear of the car but I feel like I have access to do this.
My 2,4 and 7 fuses are good. I can hear something trying to release when I use the fob or try to use the emergency release form inside the trunk. Seems like it is trying but jammed or stuck. Oh, and my FOB manual key only goes halfway in. I've lubricated the keyhole but gotten nowhere.
I am attaching a few pics of what I see. If anyone can tell me what to yank on or money with that would be awesome! Maybe that 3rd pic is the vacumn hose...the white one. The 2nd pic....that small white plastic thing looks like it could be part of the equation.
thanks!
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not sure what's wrong but, you can undo the latch (plastic cover middle bottom) and at least have some room to look around.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
How aggressive were you with the manual key? I got my car for a deal because the battery was dead and the owner couldn't open the trunk with the key. I took a can of WD-40 and jammed the red plastic straw inside the lock and gave it a good squirt. Then I worked the key in and out AGGRESSIVELY for a few minutes. A little more WD-40 and a little more jiggering and it worked. Took me about 5 minutes.
If that doesn't work for you, you might need to cut the vacuum line and either apply pressure or suction. I can't remember which one the trunk latch wants. If you are hearing the pump work when you use the key fob, it probably means you have a leak in the line somewhere. Do the other pneumatic items on the car work? (rear headrest fold-down, door locks?)
If that doesn't work for you, you might need to cut the vacuum line and either apply pressure or suction. I can't remember which one the trunk latch wants. If you are hearing the pump work when you use the key fob, it probably means you have a leak in the line somewhere. Do the other pneumatic items on the car work? (rear headrest fold-down, door locks?)
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GatorMB (06-03-2019)
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
How aggressive were you with the manual key? I got my car for a deal because the battery was dead and the owner couldn't open the trunk with the key. I took a can of WD-40 and jammed the red plastic straw inside the lock and gave it a good squirt. Then I worked the key in and out AGGRESSIVELY for a few minutes. A little more WD-40 and a little more jiggering and it worked. Took me about 5 minutes.
If that doesn't work for you, you might need to cut the vacuum line and either apply pressure or suction. I can't remember which one the trunk latch wants. If you are hearing the pump work when you use the key fob, it probably means you have a leak in the line somewhere. Do the other pneumatic items on the car work? (rear headrest fold-down, door locks?)
If that doesn't work for you, you might need to cut the vacuum line and either apply pressure or suction. I can't remember which one the trunk latch wants. If you are hearing the pump work when you use the key fob, it probably means you have a leak in the line somewhere. Do the other pneumatic items on the car work? (rear headrest fold-down, door locks?)
Good idea on the headrests - I just tested and they are working. Door locks too. Strange....
Thanks JoeJErnst
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
That means the pneumatic pump is working. You probably have a leak somewhere in the line between the trunk and the pump. Or perhaps the trunk latch is so fouled up that the penumatics won't open it, just like the key.
If you cut the tube and blow/suck on the end that goes to the latch it might work. Unfortunately that would mean you need to somehow re-splice the tube back together, or replace the whole line from the pump to the trunk latch.
If you cut the tube and blow/suck on the end that goes to the latch it might work. Unfortunately that would mean you need to somehow re-splice the tube back together, or replace the whole line from the pump to the trunk latch.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That means the pneumatic pump is working. You probably have a leak somewhere in the line between the trunk and the pump. Or perhaps the trunk latch is so fouled up that the penumatics won't open it, just like the key.
If you cut the tube and blow/suck on the end that goes to the latch it might work. Unfortunately that would mean you need to somehow re-splice the tube back together, or replace the whole line from the pump to the trunk latch.
If you cut the tube and blow/suck on the end that goes to the latch it might work. Unfortunately that would mean you need to somehow re-splice the tube back together, or replace the whole line from the pump to the trunk latch.
Ok thanks. I have a feeling the latch is fouled up but will maybe cut the line and try to get it open. Will report back. Thanks for the info.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Since my trunk doesn't have the lining anymore I went out and took a picture of the mechanism that opens the latch. When pressure is applied to the pneumatic line, it pushes on the white hook-shaped piece in the direction of the red arrow. I was able to use a screwdriver to push on the hook and open the latch. Hopefully this will help.
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=JoeJErnst;7768985]Since my trunk doesn't have the lining anymore I went out and took a picture of the mechanism that opens the latch. When pressure is applied to the pneumatic line, it pushes on the white hook-shaped piece in the direction of the red arrow. I was able to use a screwdriver to push on the hook and open the latch. Hopefully this will help.
JoeJErnst you are a lifesaver. Thank you! That got the trunk open for me and I was able to restore the trunk release to function properly. I am not sure what did it but I did the following.
- The metal trunk latches were rusty, cleaned them.
- I rechecked all fuses in spare tire area and under hood. Pulled 2,4,7 and checked them.
- Pulled the whole latch assembly out and pulled the power cable on it and then plugged back in. After replugging the power in the latch started releasing / working.
Another thing - before I started it looked like the trunk lip on the left was slightly higher than the left rear fender panel. It was subtle but not that way on the right side. I noticed this the other day and wondered if the trunk latch was crooked after I changed my license plate and brake light bulbs. Anyway, it is perfectly flush now and it feels like the trunk closes and locks easier - like I don't have to slam it as hard.
Maybe just pulling everything out and reconnecting did it?!
So I am good and hope this holds. Only issue now is my brake lights aren't working right. They work fine but if I turn on headlights they won't work or get brighter when I press the brake pedal. Maybe it is the brake light switch. I get the dash cluster 'bulb defective' warning every time I brake now (if I have cleared the malfunction form the steering wheel buttons).
Thanks for all the help!
JoeJErnst you are a lifesaver. Thank you! That got the trunk open for me and I was able to restore the trunk release to function properly. I am not sure what did it but I did the following.
- The metal trunk latches were rusty, cleaned them.
- I rechecked all fuses in spare tire area and under hood. Pulled 2,4,7 and checked them.
- Pulled the whole latch assembly out and pulled the power cable on it and then plugged back in. After replugging the power in the latch started releasing / working.
Another thing - before I started it looked like the trunk lip on the left was slightly higher than the left rear fender panel. It was subtle but not that way on the right side. I noticed this the other day and wondered if the trunk latch was crooked after I changed my license plate and brake light bulbs. Anyway, it is perfectly flush now and it feels like the trunk closes and locks easier - like I don't have to slam it as hard.
Maybe just pulling everything out and reconnecting did it?!
So I am good and hope this holds. Only issue now is my brake lights aren't working right. They work fine but if I turn on headlights they won't work or get brighter when I press the brake pedal. Maybe it is the brake light switch. I get the dash cluster 'bulb defective' warning every time I brake now (if I have cleared the malfunction form the steering wheel buttons).
Thanks for all the help!