Tire Options for CLK63 BS
I've been thinking and researching this issue for a while. I've tracked my BS a month ago at Laguna Seca, and I completely thrashed my PZeros (which were not ideal track tires). They were greasy, and chunked pretty badly.
Now for some new tires... has anybody fitted 295/30/19 on the stock rear wheels? I tried to search for topics on this issue, but I cannot find enough hits to justify this choice. I'm looking at a set of Michelin Sport Cup 2 tires, but the for the rears they are only available in this size. Also, we would have quite a few more choices if we could use this size on our wheel. According to the TireRack website, the recommended rim width for 295s are 10-11" wide, and our rear wheel is 9.5".
I have heard nothing but great things about this tire, how it grips and lasts for a long time. Specially compared to the Pirellis (180 tread wear rating vs. 60 for the P). And I drove a friend's car with these tires on and they were awesome. Otherwise, I would have to "settle" for the Corsas.
Thanks in advance for your input. Cheers.
As a hopeful future owner, this is the tire that will go on my car as soon as I get one.
Last edited by souljas_1; Mar 6, 2019 at 12:24 AM.
As a hopeful future owner, this is the tire that will go on my car as soon as I get one.
So I decided on the 265 front and 295 rear Sport Cup 2 (non-run-flat) combo on my CLK BS. No rubbing, no handling issues, no perceived loss of power (due to a slightly taller tire). So far so good. Haven't taken it to the track yet in this configuration, though.
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Are these configurations in line with what others have set for their vehicle? Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!
Last edited by souljas_1; Mar 31, 2019 at 12:30 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Alignment and Corner Balancing
F: 1.8 deg negative camber 1/16” Toe In
R: 1.4 deg negative camber 3/32” Toe In
1122 lbs —1083 lbs
\ /
2046 \/ 2046
/\
/ \
963 lbs — 924 lbs
Total weight inc. driver = 4092 lbs
53.8% front
L 51% 49% R
46.2% rear
I noticed we have very similar front camber settings, but you have more negative rear camber. I am not sure how to convert my toe in setting from inches to degrees. I drove the car with PZeros on the track, and it really drove well, but with severe lack of grip. I haven't tried the new Cup 2 tires on the track yet.
Car tracks true when straight without any veering to any side, if that is what you are concerned with. Hope this helps.
Hope this helps
Mike
Alignment and Corner Balancing
F: 1.8 deg negative camber 1/16” Toe In
R: 1.4 deg negative camber 3/32” Toe In
1122 lbs —1083 lbs
\ /
2046 \/ 2046
/\
/ \
963 lbs — 924 lbs
Total weight inc. driver = 4092 lbs
53.8% front
L 51% 49% R
46.2% rear
I noticed we have very similar front camber settings, but you have more negative rear camber. I am not sure how to convert my toe in setting from inches to degrees. I drove the car with PZeros on the track, and it really drove well, but with severe lack of grip. I haven't tried the new Cup 2 tires on the track yet.
Car tracks true when straight without any veering to any side, if that is what you are concerned with. Hope this helps.
So I brought it into West End alignment in Gardena, CA, and my trusted alignment guru over there found that the car was set to ZERO toe in in the front, and that would explain the driving characteristics I just mentioned. He then dialed in a very, very small amount of toe-in, and that really minimized the tendency to "wander" at the expense of a little bit of lost "turn-in" snappiness. I miss the turn-in, but I don't miss the "wandering" straight line drive it used to have. An OK compromise for me.
Hope this helps.
Front:
- left : -1.52 deg camber , 10.36 caster and 0.01 Toe
- right : -1.55 deg camber , 10.26 caster and 0.00 Toe
- total Toe 0.01
Rear
- left : -1.18 deg camber and 0.09 Toe
- right : -1.1 9deg camber and 0.09 Toe
- total Toe 0.18
Please detail this statement. Did they cris-cross the front wheels and retest drive before putting back on alignment machine? What exactly were the steps performed in order? Are the front tires still in same position as they were before? Just curious as that small of a change in front toe is insignificant assuming the new before #'s were the same as your old final #"s . Your last post only has the final #'s. It doesn't have the before #'s like your original post. Also, if you look at your original post, they never touched the front end. Camber, caster, and toe are the same before and after. The .10L and .07R toe is the same as .09 and.08. They are both total toe of .17. What they adjusted originally was the rear toe. It also seems they didn't add any caster to passenger side.
Glad it is driving straight and that it is good now. Just trying to work this out mechanically as I am OCD
Please detail this statement. Did they cris-cross the front wheels and retest drive before putting back on alignment machine? What exactly were the steps performed in order? Are the front tires still in same position as they were before? Just curious as that small of a change in front toe is insignificant assuming the new before #'s were the same as your old final #"s . Your last post only has the final #'s. It doesn't have the before #'s like your original post. Also, if you look at your original post, they never touched the front end. Camber, caster, and toe are the same before and after. The .10L and .07R toe is the same as .09 and.08. They are both total toe of .17. What they adjusted originally was the rear toe. It also seems they didn't add any caster to passenger side.
Glad it is driving straight and that it is good now. Just trying to work this out mechanically as I am OCD

took it back to have them re-verify. Well this time they drove it on the highway per my recommendation and made these slight alignment adjustments - front tires still in the same position. Tracks great on level roads so looks to just be the car wanting to follow the crown of the road.





