2013 CLS 550 o2 Sensor Replacement
Anyone replaced their bank 1, upstream o2 sensor? Any insight as to accessing it? Is it accessible from underneath the hood or under body?
Or does anyone have a schematic or link to such info?
Thank you!
Just completed the install. You will need to jack the car up pretty high. Remove the middle under body plastic shroud, I think there are eight 8mm screws holding it in. I sprayed some liquid wrench on the sensor then removed the shroud to let it penetrate. I had to go under the front of the car, going from the side doesn't work
Aligning the socket wrench to the o2 socket was a little tricky but it broke loose pretty easily once I got it on. It was a $6 socket head from Rock Auto that was one of many suggested for this. It's pretty flush which I believe makes the job easier. The plug was about $50, which was the cheapest I could find even amongst mbpartsdirect etc.
The plug is affixed to the housing of the transmission. Remove the coupled plug out of the metal clips. Once out I had to lay flat on my back and reach up with both hands to release the plastic clip, there's very little slack. After that it was pretty straight forward for reinstall. Make sure to clean threads on exhaust, then finger tighten the sensor (do not plug in until it is completely tightened). Per Bosch do not over tighten as the heat will expand the metal/threads. No additional anti seize is required. Plug in new sensor. There are little grooves that the coupled connection slips onto on the metal bracket. Reinstall shroud.
Last edited by DanielW415; May 17, 2020 at 03:59 PM. Reason: spelling correction
Did you have any clearance/space issue with the flex head? My O2 sensor was heavily tightened, so it took a lot more force to remove it. The lift was necessary in my case even after spraying WD40.
Removing the clips off the sensor deep in there was very uncomfortable for me as well haha. It started to frustrate me.
I'm glad you got it done quickly. I struggled for 2 days before I took it to my friend's shop haha. Thanks for the info tho!
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Did you have any clearance/space issue with the flex head? My O2 sensor was heavily tightened, so it took a lot more force to remove it. The lift was necessary in my case even after spraying WD40.
Removing the clips off the sensor deep in there was very uncomfortable for me as well haha. It started to frustrate me.
I'm glad you got it done quickly. I struggled for 2 days before I took it to my friend's shop haha. Thanks for the info tho!
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I feel that this flush fit socket probably was key for removing the upstream sensor. Some of these sockets are deep and I can't imagine getting one on the sensor in this location.
If the O2 sensor is really dead, you'll get the code back almost instantaneously or within a few days of clearing the code.
If the O2 sensor is really dead, you'll get the code back almost instantaneously or within a few days of clearing the code.
i actually noticed something that never happened before I was accelerating and it jumped really bad from 3 to 4th like I thought something was wrong with the car and it’s never happened before and it hasn’t happened again. I thought it was weird but The light went off by itself never had it cleared
Honestly, I don't have any knowledge or a clue why that jerk might've happened. I haven't experienced that.
My sister's C250 had a transmission sensor CEL come up...we cleared it, it took a month for it come back, again. We cleared it again, it hasn't come back since lol. Though it gave another CEL for a bad thermostat, which we replaced. But now...it has a CEL, but no code. Took it to a shop...no code. Light is still on lol. Took the battery cables off/on, still there. So I'm going to take it to a diff shop soon and see if they can figure something out.


