Cylinder misfire
#1
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2007 CLS 550
Cylinder misfire
Hello All....So my 2007 CLS 550 has started running rough. Took it to my mechanic and after a tune up still running rough.
He hooked it up to the computer and it read....
0629 Misfiring (p0300)
0645 Misfiring of cylinder 2: damages TWC (p0302)
0633 Misfiring of cylinder 1: damages TWC (p0301)
Anyone know what these codes are and what is the repair procedures??
Thanks for any help
chrisd56 is online now Report Post
He hooked it up to the computer and it read....
0629 Misfiring (p0300)
0645 Misfiring of cylinder 2: damages TWC (p0302)
0633 Misfiring of cylinder 1: damages TWC (p0301)
Anyone know what these codes are and what is the repair procedures??
Thanks for any help
chrisd56 is online now Report Post
#2
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Swap coil packs to different cylinders if fault code follows replace affected coil packs.
#4
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Old thread to resurect, but my 2007 S550 is doing the same thing.
Was driving along, everything was fine. Then BAM, car started misfiring and had to pull over. Had to get a tow. Was able to get the car started but its misifiring like crazy.
I changed all the plugs, swapped the coils, still keep getting the cylinder 5 misfire and sometimes other cylinders too.
Replaced alternator, still no luck.
Car will start but bucks like a bronco and you can hear it misfiring.
checked all the fuses and relays, they look ok. Unplugged both batteries and did nothing.
Out of ideas, maybe a fuel injector? going to tow it to the dealership this week because I'm out of ideas.
Was driving along, everything was fine. Then BAM, car started misfiring and had to pull over. Had to get a tow. Was able to get the car started but its misifiring like crazy.
I changed all the plugs, swapped the coils, still keep getting the cylinder 5 misfire and sometimes other cylinders too.
Replaced alternator, still no luck.
Car will start but bucks like a bronco and you can hear it misfiring.
checked all the fuses and relays, they look ok. Unplugged both batteries and did nothing.
Out of ideas, maybe a fuel injector? going to tow it to the dealership this week because I'm out of ideas.
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
#5
Don't spend another penny until you do a compression check. You may find one cylinder on the right bank is low.
The M270, 272 and 273 engines were built with inadequately hardened valve guides. When one (or more) cylinders gets low, it throws a misfire code.
I had to replace the right head in my sons E350 (100k miles).
The M270, 272 and 273 engines were built with inadequately hardened valve guides. When one (or more) cylinders gets low, it throws a misfire code.
I had to replace the right head in my sons E350 (100k miles).
#6
Thanks for the reply. An mechanic is doing a compression check today.
Also forgot to mention when it stopped running I tried hella hard to start it over and finally got it idling all crazy after giving it lots of gas. When I pulled the #5 plug it was bent over. Even after new plugs it continued to run bad. The Indy seems to initially think it's something serious like a bent rod. Could I have damaged something by flooding the engine with gas in a non sparking cylinder? I didn't think gas could hydrolock an engine.
Did they have to pull the engine out to swap the head?
Thanks
Also forgot to mention when it stopped running I tried hella hard to start it over and finally got it idling all crazy after giving it lots of gas. When I pulled the #5 plug it was bent over. Even after new plugs it continued to run bad. The Indy seems to initially think it's something serious like a bent rod. Could I have damaged something by flooding the engine with gas in a non sparking cylinder? I didn't think gas could hydrolock an engine.
Did they have to pull the engine out to swap the head?
Thanks
#7
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#9
Sorry, my reply was intended for "chrisd56", but it may apply to the problem you are having.
The engine did not have to be pulled in the E350 (sons car) and I don't believe it would need to come out for the CLS either. That needs to be verified.
It sounds like you have something different going on. Since your issue started suddenly, vs gradually, and you can't get it to run, at all.
After the compression check, for your situation, I would look at the timing next. Your chain may have stretched to where it jumped a tooth, or 2. I believe there is a way to visually check the cams to crankshaft alignment without alot of labor time. Check youtube. If the chain stretched and jumped, then the engine may be damaged.
How many miles on your engine?
Rick
The engine did not have to be pulled in the E350 (sons car) and I don't believe it would need to come out for the CLS either. That needs to be verified.
It sounds like you have something different going on. Since your issue started suddenly, vs gradually, and you can't get it to run, at all.
After the compression check, for your situation, I would look at the timing next. Your chain may have stretched to where it jumped a tooth, or 2. I believe there is a way to visually check the cams to crankshaft alignment without alot of labor time. Check youtube. If the chain stretched and jumped, then the engine may be damaged.
How many miles on your engine?
Rick
#10
220k!!
My engine is in the dreaded production years with the camshaft issues, but since I'm not getting any codes im leaning away from that as a cause.
Yes the problem occurred suddenly. Good to know the entire engine does not need to be removed to replace. I'm already scouting eBay for a used head in case that is the problem. A compression check should reveal more
Thanks
My engine is in the dreaded production years with the camshaft issues, but since I'm not getting any codes im leaning away from that as a cause.
Yes the problem occurred suddenly. Good to know the entire engine does not need to be removed to replace. I'm already scouting eBay for a used head in case that is the problem. A compression check should reveal more
Thanks
#11
Called the indy mechanic to check on the progress,
He hasn't even done a compression check yet because just based on his 10 seconds of hearing it idle he seems to think the engine is toast.
The engine was running perfect prior to it suddenly misfiring. It was so bad I couldn't even continue driving, and the car can barely limp its way down the driveway. So its possible something got bent. Still waiting on the compresion check. In the meantime I'll be driving my ****box Jetta TDI wagon!
Thanks
He hasn't even done a compression check yet because just based on his 10 seconds of hearing it idle he seems to think the engine is toast.
The engine was running perfect prior to it suddenly misfiring. It was so bad I couldn't even continue driving, and the car can barely limp its way down the driveway. So its possible something got bent. Still waiting on the compresion check. In the meantime I'll be driving my ****box Jetta TDI wagon!
Thanks
#12
It sounds like the timing chain jumped. A compression check will not tell you that. It also sounds like the "balance shaft" issue that the early 350 engines are plagued with but, I haven't heard of that being a problem in the 550's. While your mech. has the car, it is worth looking at the timing.
Figure out what the problem is first, then decide how to approach the fix. You will more likely find a used engine, as opposed to just a used head.
Check with Potomac German for used stuff: http://www.pgauto.com/. I have had good success with them but I have only purchased wheels and body parts, etc.
For rebuilt, you can go to the dealer but, check with Metric Motors in LA: http://mercedesengines.net/. They will be half the $$.
Rick
Figure out what the problem is first, then decide how to approach the fix. You will more likely find a used engine, as opposed to just a used head.
Check with Potomac German for used stuff: http://www.pgauto.com/. I have had good success with them but I have only purchased wheels and body parts, etc.
For rebuilt, you can go to the dealer but, check with Metric Motors in LA: http://mercedesengines.net/. They will be half the $$.
Rick
#13
Much thanks
I wondered about the timing also but I didn't have any timing codes in star. Makes me think its a fuel/spark or valve issue.
Also if you look at the star screenshot of the codes, my voltage was seriously low even with the motor limping and a new alternator. I was getting a low battery warning when driving before all this happened
Could this also be a dead main trunk battery and a defective battery control module? The engine is not getting enough voltage to produce spark?
If the car needs a new engine it doesn't make much sense to pay $7000-10000k worth of repairs on a $11k car. I guess I would sell the car with a blown engine or even part it out.
Thanks
I wondered about the timing also but I didn't have any timing codes in star. Makes me think its a fuel/spark or valve issue.
Also if you look at the star screenshot of the codes, my voltage was seriously low even with the motor limping and a new alternator. I was getting a low battery warning when driving before all this happened
Could this also be a dead main trunk battery and a defective battery control module? The engine is not getting enough voltage to produce spark?
If the car needs a new engine it doesn't make much sense to pay $7000-10000k worth of repairs on a $11k car. I guess I would sell the car with a blown engine or even part it out.
Thanks
#14
I would be surprised if the engine would run with insufficient voltage to satisfy the ignition and not display a malfunction code.
is your mechanic very familiar with Mercedes engines?
Let us know what you find out with compression and timing inspection.
Rick
is your mechanic very familiar with Mercedes engines?
Let us know what you find out with compression and timing inspection.
Rick
#15
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'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
Also;
Is this fairly common on the M272/273? I'm planning my next Benz purchase for next year and looking hard at the W221 S550. I'd rather not be pulling the heads right off the bat if I can help it.
#16
From what I have learned, the valve guide issue is common on earlier produced M270, 272 and 273 engines. My 09 runs strong and compression is up to factory spec. Although MB is reluctant to discuss it, it is possible that the valve guides were corrected prior to the 09 production.
My advice is to add a compression measurement to your list of desired features in your next S class. Regardless of the engine size.
The W221 is an exceptional piece of machinery.
Rick
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dlafever (07-18-2016)
#17
Ok!! Update. Turns out when my car died originally on the side of the road I tried so hard to restart it that I flooded a cylinder and bent a connecting rod. The piston shattered and the engine was trashed. ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Had the whole engine replaced with a junkyard one, was a 4matic engine but worked fine, just needed to swap the oil pan. Cost $5500 when done.
Interestingly even with 220k on the old engine the mechanic said the inside of the engine looked in good shape. Except for obviously the bent connecting rod.
now I'm still getting the original problem. The voltage is too low, dashboard is cutting in and out sometimes.
i have replaced the alternator twice, both batteries, the battery control module. Checked the 400amp fuse under the hood and it's fine, don't know what else to try.
starting to think the ECM is going bad. Getting frustrated and going to sell the car once I get it running. Going to bring it to the dealer this week.
If it is the ECM can you recode a used ECM?
thanks
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Had the whole engine replaced with a junkyard one, was a 4matic engine but worked fine, just needed to swap the oil pan. Cost $5500 when done.
Interestingly even with 220k on the old engine the mechanic said the inside of the engine looked in good shape. Except for obviously the bent connecting rod.
now I'm still getting the original problem. The voltage is too low, dashboard is cutting in and out sometimes.
i have replaced the alternator twice, both batteries, the battery control module. Checked the 400amp fuse under the hood and it's fine, don't know what else to try.
starting to think the ECM is going bad. Getting frustrated and going to sell the car once I get it running. Going to bring it to the dealer this week.
If it is the ECM can you recode a used ECM?
thanks
#18
I don't know if a used ECM can be recoded. Good question. You could check with the folks at BBA Reman, at: http://www.bba-reman.com/us/content/about_bba_reman/. They rebuild many control modules including ECM's, plus they know the symptoms of a failing one.
It sounds like the used engine included its ECM and you did not use your original ECM?
If that is the case, there may be other control modules in the car that do not recognize the alien ECM.
I can imagine your frustration.
Rick H
It sounds like the used engine included its ECM and you did not use your original ECM?
If that is the case, there may be other control modules in the car that do not recognize the alien ECM.
I can imagine your frustration.
Rick H
#19
Forgot to mention the electrical issues were going on before the engine got ruined. The low voltage issues are what actually caused the car to cut off and then I tried to restart it too hard. Almost like the injectors or coils were not being powered.
since the replacement engine has new injectors and CPS I know it's not that. And since everything else I can think of has been replaced the ECM might be the only thing left
thanks for the replies
since the replacement engine has new injectors and CPS I know it's not that. And since everything else I can think of has been replaced the ECM might be the only thing left
thanks for the replies
#21
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Ok!! Update. Turns out when my car died originally on the side of the road I tried so hard to restart it that I flooded a cylinder and bent a connecting rod. The piston shattered and the engine was trashed. ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Had the whole engine replaced with a junkyard one, was a 4matic engine but worked fine, just needed to swap the oil pan. Cost $5500 when done.
Interestingly even with 220k on the old engine the mechanic said the inside of the engine looked in good shape. Except for obviously the bent connecting rod.
now I'm still getting the original problem. The voltage is too low, dashboard is cutting in and out sometimes.
i have replaced the alternator twice, both batteries, the battery control module. Checked the 400amp fuse under the hood and it's fine, don't know what else to try.
starting to think the ECM is going bad. Getting frustrated and going to sell the car once I get it running. Going to bring it to the dealer this week.
If it is the ECM can you recode a used ECM?
thanks
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Had the whole engine replaced with a junkyard one, was a 4matic engine but worked fine, just needed to swap the oil pan. Cost $5500 when done.
Interestingly even with 220k on the old engine the mechanic said the inside of the engine looked in good shape. Except for obviously the bent connecting rod.
now I'm still getting the original problem. The voltage is too low, dashboard is cutting in and out sometimes.
i have replaced the alternator twice, both batteries, the battery control module. Checked the 400amp fuse under the hood and it's fine, don't know what else to try.
starting to think the ECM is going bad. Getting frustrated and going to sell the car once I get it running. Going to bring it to the dealer this week.
If it is the ECM can you recode a used ECM?
thanks
did you get a estimate to repair your damaged rod? Or was it not-repairable and you were able to find a used engine and install for total $5500 (parts and labor)???
would appreciate any insight as I am so pissed about my situation since i dont track my car and drive on the high way maybe 1x per week with a few hard pulls and cannot for the life of me understand how an AMG rod could get bent AND why it would cost $5k to replace (vs buying used engine and installing that like you did!!)
glad yours is working out.. let me know if you have any feedback
thx jv
#22
Mulletmudbogger - sorry to hear you had a connecting rod get bent due to the flooding situation. I have a different model benz (2003 C32 AMG with 120,000 on the clock) and am told my cylinder 1 misfire and CEL is due to a slightly bent connecting rod. shop quoted $5k to rebuild the engine and replace the bent rod.
did you get a estimate to repair your damaged rod? Or was it not-repairable and you were able to find a used engine and install for total $5500 (parts and labor)???
would appreciate any insight as I am so pissed about my situation since i dont track my car and drive on the high way maybe 1x per week with a few hard pulls and cannot for the life of me understand how an AMG rod could get bent AND why it would cost $5k to replace (vs buying used engine and installing that like you did!!)
glad yours is working out.. let me know if you have any feedback
thx jv
did you get a estimate to repair your damaged rod? Or was it not-repairable and you were able to find a used engine and install for total $5500 (parts and labor)???
would appreciate any insight as I am so pissed about my situation since i dont track my car and drive on the high way maybe 1x per week with a few hard pulls and cannot for the life of me understand how an AMG rod could get bent AND why it would cost $5k to replace (vs buying used engine and installing that like you did!!)
glad yours is working out.. let me know if you have any feedback
thx jv
Before spending any more money, I recommend doing a compression check to see how that cylinder compares to the rest. If a connecting rod is bent enough to cause low compression and a misfire, you would also be getting blue exhaust smoke on start up.
Rick H
#23
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jvakos: What engine series do you have? If it is 270, 272 or 273, you may not have a bent connecting rod. You may very well have a worn valve guide on the cylinder that is throwing the misfire code.
Before spending any more money, I recommend doing a compression check to see how that cylinder compares to the rest. If a connecting rod is bent enough to cause low compression and a misfire, you would also be getting blue exhaust smoke on start up.
Rick H
Before spending any more money, I recommend doing a compression check to see how that cylinder compares to the rest. If a connecting rod is bent enough to cause low compression and a misfire, you would also be getting blue exhaust smoke on start up.
Rick H
It started as a slight mis-fire that was just causing some vibration which the dealer commented about. I drove the car 2 more months and the vibration got worse to the point where a CEL came on and codes were cylinder 1 misfire.
Its in the shop now and they did a compression test which came in around 130 and low compared to the "good" cylinders which were around 170 and normal. They said the piston in that cylinder does not go all they way up like the others and is about 1/4 inch low due to a slight bend in the rod. i dont think i have blue exhaust but i trust this shops expertise and been going to them for years and just have an unfortunate situation.
it appears this bent rod situation was created by having a hydrolock in that cylinder which was caused by a stuck injector that allowed excess fuel in to the cylinder which didnt burn off. i have no clue how a stuck injector happens but i have 118k on the car and have never replaced them or knew they should be replaced....
prob not worth trying to replace that rod which would essentially require a engine rebuild which would be like $5k so think i may need to get rid of it and move on to a new benz (which isnt a bad thing as i've owned this one for 10 years)
#24
Having a reputable shop is very important with these cars. You want to stay on good terms with them.
However, I have to disagree with their diagnosis.
Hydrolock will happen if there is no way for unburned fuel to escape that cylinder. If the valves are opening, it will escape.
A bent rod will merely lower the piston in the bore. It will not change the stroke. Bore x stroke = displacement which gives you compression. And how do they know the piston is 1/4" lower than it should be? In order to determine that, they would need to have the head off. Maybe they have, I don't think you mentioned it.
Maybe suggest a "leak down" test. It takes some time but much better than replacing the engine unnecessarily. The leak down test measures how well the valves are sealing. They connect a pressure gage to the questionable cylinder, rotate the engine to where the compression is highest, then let it sit to see how long it holds that pressure. There are factory specs for this. If it leaks down faster than it should, then you have either a valve leak or a ring leak.
I'm not trying to create a controversy. Only to save you $$. I am not that familiar with the supercharged engines, but, it is internal combustion.
Sincerely,
Rick H
However, I have to disagree with their diagnosis.
Hydrolock will happen if there is no way for unburned fuel to escape that cylinder. If the valves are opening, it will escape.
A bent rod will merely lower the piston in the bore. It will not change the stroke. Bore x stroke = displacement which gives you compression. And how do they know the piston is 1/4" lower than it should be? In order to determine that, they would need to have the head off. Maybe they have, I don't think you mentioned it.
Maybe suggest a "leak down" test. It takes some time but much better than replacing the engine unnecessarily. The leak down test measures how well the valves are sealing. They connect a pressure gage to the questionable cylinder, rotate the engine to where the compression is highest, then let it sit to see how long it holds that pressure. There are factory specs for this. If it leaks down faster than it should, then you have either a valve leak or a ring leak.
I'm not trying to create a controversy. Only to save you $$. I am not that familiar with the supercharged engines, but, it is internal combustion.
Sincerely,
Rick H
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Rick - appreciate the ideas. The shop is exceptional (ex Amg and Benz techs) and they've serviced (and modded) my car the past 3-4 years. They did that compression test and I forgot to mention that I asked them to open up the heads which is how they saw the piston being 1/4 inch low.
I am still baffled how the hydrolock situation came about though? I have just the normal mods on the car similar to other c32 owners including 178mm crank pulley, headers and tune and have never tracked or raced it aside from highway pulls and some tire squeals when hitting highway on ramp.
Not many examples of Benz hydrolock situations on these boards aside from getting water in but not fuel.
I am still baffled how the hydrolock situation came about though? I have just the normal mods on the car similar to other c32 owners including 178mm crank pulley, headers and tune and have never tracked or raced it aside from highway pulls and some tire squeals when hitting highway on ramp.
Not many examples of Benz hydrolock situations on these boards aside from getting water in but not fuel.