Let's Talk About Maintenance...
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 436
Likes: 64
From: Dartmouth, MA
1967 250SE, 2022 GLC300 2023 EQB300, 2018 AMG GT
2. Pumping the oil out is an option for owners that have a Mityvac and prefer to avoid the huge mess caused by draining the oil tank. There is very little left after sucking it out and it won’t make a big mess. I have a Mityvac and I may use it next time to avoid the mess. For the last 20 years most of the MBs had the oil filter on top and the dipstick tube was positioned to direct the Mityvac tube at the lowest point in oil pan. It made oil change a breeze.
Like several other MB forums, owners share their own personal experiences, methods, shortcuts, repair procedures, maintenance, etc. There is no organization, business or other entity that reviews or approves the posts. So, no, Mercedes has no input here (wish they had in some cases), although there are MB service technicians that bring valuable info. I am sure that an administrator or moderator can point you to the disclaimers or fine print that can clarify this better.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 57
Likes: 2
gt
Here is my reply to your items:
1. Reaching it to temp while raised is not a problem. First take the car on a drive to reach temp. Then raise the car. If needed you can rev it on jack stands provided you do not put it in gear. Then shut off and drain. I have had no problem doing this and it is safe.
2. I have no mess when I drain the oil. I use a tall bucket and have short piece of PVC pipe that I fit around the oil drain hole. I then take the drain plug out and the pipe helps to nicely guide the oil into thre bucket. No mess.
1. Reaching it to temp while raised is not a problem. First take the car on a drive to reach temp. Then raise the car. If needed you can rev it on jack stands provided you do not put it in gear. Then shut off and drain. I have had no problem doing this and it is safe.
2. I have no mess when I drain the oil. I use a tall bucket and have short piece of PVC pipe that I fit around the oil drain hole. I then take the drain plug out and the pipe helps to nicely guide the oil into thre bucket. No mess.
Member
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 108
Likes: 54
AMG GTR
1. That would not be the best solution. First, the 3 minutes limit is not to drain the (car) oil completely but to open the oil tank drain plug. All of ~5 qt. will come out in 10 seconds. The rest of the oil, engine and filter is not conditioned by the 3 minutes. Have you ever tried to warm up the car to 100C on the lift? It will probably take you 2 hours unless you keep it revved up which is not a good idea for the DIYers that don’t have a lift and use jack stands. I have a lift and I would not do that. It takes me 1/2 hour aggressive city driving to get it to 100C.
2. Pumping the oil out is an option for owners that have a Mityvac and prefer to avoid the huge mess caused by draining the oil tank. There is very little left after sucking it out and it won’t make a big mess. I have a Mityvac and I may use it next time to avoid the mess. For the last 20 years most of the MBs had the oil filter on top and the dipstick tube was positioned to direct the Mityvac tube at the lowest point in oil pan. It made oil change a breeze.
Like several other MB forums, owners share their own personal experiences, methods, shortcuts, repair procedures, maintenance, etc. There is no organization, business or other entity that reviews or approves the posts. So, no, Mercedes has no input here (wish they had in some cases), although there are MB service technicians that bring valuable info. I am sure that an administrator or moderator can point you to the disclaimers or fine print that can clarify this better.
2. Pumping the oil out is an option for owners that have a Mityvac and prefer to avoid the huge mess caused by draining the oil tank. There is very little left after sucking it out and it won’t make a big mess. I have a Mityvac and I may use it next time to avoid the mess. For the last 20 years most of the MBs had the oil filter on top and the dipstick tube was positioned to direct the Mityvac tube at the lowest point in oil pan. It made oil change a breeze.
Like several other MB forums, owners share their own personal experiences, methods, shortcuts, repair procedures, maintenance, etc. There is no organization, business or other entity that reviews or approves the posts. So, no, Mercedes has no input here (wish they had in some cases), although there are MB service technicians that bring valuable info. I am sure that an administrator or moderator can point you to the disclaimers or fine print that can clarify this better.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 80
Likes: 28
too many...
Well after doing this to the MB recommended method I see your point Green Hell😉. Did first change Sunday when I returned from a car show/spirited drive. Was prepared to start it before I left and drove right into my shop and up the lift. Oil was already 100C so sump drained into 5 gallon bucket with no drama no mess but yielded only slightly over 6 liters. Got about .5 liters out of filter and engine. Put just under 7 liters in to get to mid stick. Car was closer to “low” side of stick before change. With my set-up I’ll likely do it again this way as I’m blessed with a lift etc to do it without any drama. If I had to do it on ramps or jack stands, I’d go with the pump method for sure. I doubt there’s more than a .5 liter at best difference if the cars warm…. The theory of the quick release “pulling” oil out of the lines is good in theory but I don’t think it actually does. It rushed out as fast as possible in my case and there is still ~1-2 liters that stayed in the lines etc somewhere. As said earlier it’s not an engine rebuild, it’s an oil change. My oil had 2700 miles on it, looked pretty damn good, sending it out for analisys just because I have like 3 prepaid ones just for science (hopefully 🤣
I think oil change regularly (or more often than recommended) with proper oil by any method and you’ll be just fine. In my 30+ years of maintaining and frankly running the snot out of high perfomance cars I have never had an oil related issue. I always change frequently with synthetic oil and check levels regularly. My .02.
I think oil change regularly (or more often than recommended) with proper oil by any method and you’ll be just fine. In my 30+ years of maintaining and frankly running the snot out of high perfomance cars I have never had an oil related issue. I always change frequently with synthetic oil and check levels regularly. My .02.
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Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 10
Likes: 5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 434
From: 🇨🇦
W463 G550 / C190 GTC //prev: W204 C63 507 / R170
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 434
From: 🇨🇦
W463 G550 / C190 GTC //prev: W204 C63 507 / R170
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 434
From: 🇨🇦
W463 G550 / C190 GTC //prev: W204 C63 507 / R170
Super Member
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 615
Likes: 155
From: Utah
2018 Diamond White GT-R
Give it up, you lost, lol Another rich puke who can't stand to get his prissy hands dirty.
Super Member
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 615
Likes: 155
From: Utah
2018 Diamond White GT-R
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 2,515
Likes: 900
From: DFW
SL63
Those that say running a car on the lift is safe, haven’t considered all the risk. Any car, regardless of location, must be treated as if it can move forward or aft, with no warning. When we did engine runs on aircraft, they were triple chocked, and triple chained(1 per landing gear)ashore, double triple chained (2 per landing gear), with the triple chocks, and a holdback.
If anyone says running a car on a lift is safe, they should concede, that it’s less safe than running it while it’s on the ground.
You will keep your fingers and toes a lot longer, while wrenching, if you treat your work like it could bite you at any time, and take the least amount of risk, for the shortest possible periods of time.
If anyone says running a car on a lift is safe, they should concede, that it’s less safe than running it while it’s on the ground.
You will keep your fingers and toes a lot longer, while wrenching, if you treat your work like it could bite you at any time, and take the least amount of risk, for the shortest possible periods of time.
Last edited by MB2timer; Jan 22, 2025 at 10:20 PM. Reason: -fewest
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 10
Likes: 5
Oil change and filter replacement, an in-cabin filter replacement, brake fluid change, fluid level check and correction, a multi-point inspection, wiper blade replacements and engine air filter replacement.
So by my calcs, yours is $900-$1000 ($150-$250 more) for the three without fluid level check and correction, a multi-point inspection, wiper blade replacements and engine air filter replacement. The OEM air filters and wipers are worth at least $100 without labor.
Last edited by AMGChuy; Jan 16, 2025 at 12:24 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 3
Likes: 1
W212 2015, OM651
Some info from the link above and some more I found online, may be somewhat different for the GT:
Code AF is below
Here are the service scopes for the C-Class W204 and therefore for all other cars (>2004).
https://www.jamescooke.me.uk/automot...orkshop-codes/
A – 505 – Service items 1, 3
A1 – D0D – Service items 1, 3, 4
A2
A3 – 550A – Service items 1, 3, 8, 11
A4 – D50J – Service items 1, 3, 8, 10, 11
A5
A6 – DD0S – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11
A7 – G50M – Service items 1, 3, 20
A8 – Q50V – Service items 1, 3, 10, 20
A9 – GD0V – Service items 1, 3, 4, 20
A0 – 850D – Service items 1, 3, 10
AC – QD051 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 10, 20
AF – KD001 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 12, 20
AH – 801050E – Service items 1, 3, 13, 24
AG – VD0A1 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11, 20
AK – 10D0E – Service items 1, 3, 13
AP – 15D0K
B – 606 – Service items 2, 3
B1 – E0E – Service items 2, 3, 4
B2 – 8E0N – Service items 2, 3, 4, 10
B3 – 560B – Service items 2, 3, 8, 11
B4 – B60H – Service items 2, 3, 8, 10, 11
B5 – 5E0K – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 11
B5 – 3E0H – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 12
B6 – DE0T – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11
B7 – G60N – Service items 2, 3, 20
B7 – GN061 – Service items 2, 3, 15, 20
B8 – Q60W – Service items 2, 3, 10, 20
B9 – GE0W – Service items 2, 3, 4, 20
B0 – 1607 – Service items 2, 3, 8
B0 – 960F – Service items, 2, 3, 8, 10 (on a GL63)
BD – M60T – Service items 2, 3, 8, 11, 20
BE – V6031 Service items 2, 3, 8, 10, 11, 20
BF
BK – 10E0F – Service items 2, 3, 4, 13
BS – 1Q60X – Service items 2, 3, 10, 13, 20
Code AF is below
Here are the service scopes for the C-Class W204 and therefore for all other cars (>2004).
- Service 1: Minor basic service (Service A)
- Service 2: Major basic service (Service B)
- Service 3: Engine oil + filter
- Service 4: Brake fluid
- Service 5: Combination filter
- Service 6: Dust filter (included in Service B)
- Service 7: Activated charcoal filter
- Service 8: Air filter
- Service 9: Tilting/Sliding roof
- Service 10: Panoramic sliding roof
- Service 11: fuel filter
- Service 12: spark plugs
- Service 13: coolant
- Service 14: main coolant circuit
- Service 15: trailer hitch
- Service 16: parking brake
- Service 17: emergency call system
- Service 18: brake algorithm
- Service 19: diesel particulate filter
- Service 20: automatic transmission oil and filter
https://www.jamescooke.me.uk/automot...orkshop-codes/
A – 505 – Service items 1, 3
A1 – D0D – Service items 1, 3, 4
A2
A3 – 550A – Service items 1, 3, 8, 11
A4 – D50J – Service items 1, 3, 8, 10, 11
A5
A6 – DD0S – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11
A7 – G50M – Service items 1, 3, 20
A8 – Q50V – Service items 1, 3, 10, 20
A9 – GD0V – Service items 1, 3, 4, 20
A0 – 850D – Service items 1, 3, 10
AC – QD051 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 10, 20
AF – KD001 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 12, 20
AH – 801050E – Service items 1, 3, 13, 24
AG – VD0A1 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11, 20
AK – 10D0E – Service items 1, 3, 13
AP – 15D0K
B – 606 – Service items 2, 3
B1 – E0E – Service items 2, 3, 4
B2 – 8E0N – Service items 2, 3, 4, 10
B3 – 560B – Service items 2, 3, 8, 11
B4 – B60H – Service items 2, 3, 8, 10, 11
B5 – 5E0K – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 11
B5 – 3E0H – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 12
B6 – DE0T – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11
B7 – G60N – Service items 2, 3, 20
B7 – GN061 – Service items 2, 3, 15, 20
B8 – Q60W – Service items 2, 3, 10, 20
B9 – GE0W – Service items 2, 3, 4, 20
B0 – 1607 – Service items 2, 3, 8
B0 – 960F – Service items, 2, 3, 8, 10 (on a GL63)
BD – M60T – Service items 2, 3, 8, 11, 20
BE – V6031 Service items 2, 3, 8, 10, 11, 20
BF
BK – 10E0F – Service items 2, 3, 4, 13
BS – 1Q60X – Service items 2, 3, 10, 13, 20
Member
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 108
Likes: 54
AMG GTR
Material costs for the B Service $400:
- Oil, Filter, drain plugs and gaskets - $110 (FCP Euro, lifetime)
- Cabin Filter $30 (FCP Euro lifetime)
- Brake bleeder tool and Castrol SRF - $220 (Amazon/FCP lifetime)
- Wiper blades - $40 Amazon
Material cost for second service a lot less as FCP has a lifetime replacement guarantee. - Yeah $1,000 seems excessive.
- Oil, Filter, drain plugs and gaskets - $110 (FCP Euro, lifetime)
- Cabin Filter $30 (FCP Euro lifetime)
- Brake bleeder tool and Castrol SRF - $220 (Amazon/FCP lifetime)
- Wiper blades - $40 Amazon
Material cost for second service a lot less as FCP has a lifetime replacement guarantee. - Yeah $1,000 seems excessive.
Member
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 108
Likes: 54
AMG GTR
ON THE SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT SERVICE:
1. What is the best way to relieve fuel pressure in the absence of the MB tool? Is there another fitting that can work to relieve pressure at that port or will just cracking a line work?
2. Any tips on moving the breather lines to minimize damage?
Thanks!
1. What is the best way to relieve fuel pressure in the absence of the MB tool? Is there another fitting that can work to relieve pressure at that port or will just cracking a line work?
2. Any tips on moving the breather lines to minimize damage?
Thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 260
Likes: 166
From: Canada
AMG GT-S, AMG C43, Ferrari Roma, Maserati MC20, Genesis GV70 Electrified
I have found a factory list of all required service procedures for the AMG GT and GT-S from an official Mercedes document:
Order no. P000 0055 13 Part no. 205 584 61 08 Edition B-2017
.
It includes Service A and B and Additional Maintenance work items 4 to 20. No items 1 to 3 listed. Items 21 to 25 do not apply.
Spark plug replacement is indicated at 90,000 kms (56,000 miles) or 6 years per Service 12
I extracted the pages relevant to the AMG GT and GT-S
Order no. P000 0055 13 Part no. 205 584 61 08 Edition B-2017
.
It includes Service A and B and Additional Maintenance work items 4 to 20. No items 1 to 3 listed. Items 21 to 25 do not apply.
Spark plug replacement is indicated at 90,000 kms (56,000 miles) or 6 years per Service 12
I extracted the pages relevant to the AMG GT and GT-S
