jgoode

Hi,

2018 AMG GT C


Can anyone tell me what service AF is? Cannot find it anywhere.


Thanks,

Jeff

Surge

Where did you see that?

jgoode

Comes up on my display every time I start the car

I have not reset since service A came, but I cannot find this anywhere

LAsunset

My post in this thread #157 has a link to the explanation on another forum. And it should break down into different service numbers if you follow the procedures. AF should be almost everything.

jgoode

Hi,

Thank you for the reply.

If I am reading this correctly, AF = service 'A' + Fuel (filter?) + ATF (fluid change?).

Also, is there a way to clear the service codes without a scan tool?

Really appreciate the help.

Jeff

LAsunset

I see the slight confusion in the other forum thread.

The best way to see what items are needed is get into the service reset mode (google "service reset mode amg") and the menu should show a list of service numbers. Literally a scrollable "Service 1, Service 3 etc" Each number corresponds to an item you need to accomplish. Once done, you can reset the service.

https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...ml#post7472058

descartesfool

Some info from the link above and some more I found online, may be somewhat different for the GT:

Code AF is below

Here are the service scopes for the C-Class W204 and therefore for all other cars (>2004).

• Service 1: Minor basic service (Service A)
• Service 2: Major basic service (Service B)
• Service 3: Engine oil + filter
• Service 4: Brake fluid
• Service 5: Combination filter
• Service 6: Dust filter (included in Service B)
• Service 7: Activated charcoal filter
• Service 8: Air filter
• Service 9: Tilting/Sliding roof
• Service 10: Panoramic sliding roof
• Service 11: fuel filter
• Service 12: spark plugs
• Service 13: coolant
• Service 14: main coolant circuit
• Service 15: trailer hitch
• Service 16: parking brake
• Service 17: emergency call system
• Service 18: brake algorithm
• Service 19: diesel particulate filter
• Service 20: automatic transmission oil and filter

https://www.jamescooke.me.uk/automot...orkshop-codes/



A – 505 – Service items 1, 3
A1 – D0D – Service items 1, 3, 4
A2
A3 – 550A – Service items 1, 3, 8, 11
A4 – D50J – Service items 1, 3, 8, 10, 11
A5
A6 – DD0S – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11
A7 – G50M – Service items 1, 3, 20
A8 – Q50V – Service items 1, 3, 10, 20
A9 – GD0V – Service items 1, 3, 4, 20
A0 – 850D – Service items 1, 3, 10
AC – QD051 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 10, 20
AF – KD001 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 12, 20
AH – 801050E – Service items 1, 3, 13, 24
AG – VD0A1 – Service items 1, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11, 20
AK – 10D0E – Service items 1, 3, 13
AP – 15D0K

B – 606 – Service items 2, 3
B1 – E0E – Service items 2, 3, 4
B2 – 8E0N – Service items 2, 3, 4, 10
B3 – 560B – Service items 2, 3, 8, 11
B4 – B60H – Service items 2, 3, 8, 10, 11
B5 – 5E0K – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 11
B5 – 3E0H – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 12
B6 – DE0T – Service items 2, 3, 4, 8, 10, 11
B7 – G60N – Service items 2, 3, 20
B7 – GN061 – Service items 2, 3, 15, 20
B8 – Q60W – Service items 2, 3, 10, 20
B9 – GE0W – Service items 2, 3, 4, 20
B0 – 1607 – Service items 2, 3, 8
B0 – 960F – Service items, 2, 3, 8, 10 (on a GL63)
BD – M60T – Service items 2, 3, 8, 11, 20
BE – V6031 Service items 2, 3, 8, 10, 11, 20
BF
BK – 10E0F – Service items 2, 3, 4, 13
BS – 1Q60X – Service items 2, 3, 10, 13, 20

LAsunset

good find! @descartesfool

sevenhead

@wolfman
This should be a sticky!

GT3vsGTR

@Wolfman please make this sticky.

GT3vsGTR

reviving this thread.
@Alexfor8 There appears to be an update on the portion related to the removal of the coil packs on the passenger side for a 2018 GTR that note relieving the pressure on the fuel system (opening it up?) making the process of replacing spark plugs a lot more complicated. Has anyone attempted a spark plug replacement on a 2018 or newer GTR without the need to open up the fuel lines?

Katie22

Yes you need to open or loosen fuel lines as part of the job. I promise loosening the fuel lines is by far one if the easiest parts of doing the job. Getting the breather lines out of the way is the challenge!

Thankfully Acta gave further info than what WIS offered to get them out.

GT3vsGTR

Does anyone have the part number for the o ring / gasket on the differential fill plug? Apparently the gasket is the only part requiring change on this fill plug - on all others you are supposed to change the plug and gasket. Strange.

AMG 17GT

Think way out of the box and change both….

GT3vsGTR

I would, do you have a PN? Is it the same as the others? Want to make sure I have all the parts for the service.

Green_Hell

Excellent thread, too bad its not sticky yet.

Green_Hell

2018 AMG GTR Maintenance Cheat Sheet



Motor Oil Change (8 quarts of 5w40 Liqui Moly plus OEM oil filter, plus drain plug)

• Warm up the engine
• Idle engine in mode C for 30 sec
• Put car on lift
• Unscrew drain stop (15b) on tank within 3 minutes of shutting engine off (collect and measure)

• Unscrew and drain (15b) on sump, (collect and measure) - remove filler cap.
• Replace oil filter element
• Replace oil filter and seal ring, tighten to 25Nm
• Replace oil drain plug and gasket (000908014009) and tighten to 30Nm
• Refill with measured amount of oil or 6.5 liters.
• Run engine until warm, run engine for 30 seconds at a constant speed around 2K rpm.
• Switch engine off and measure oil at dipstick within 2 minutes, with a wait time of 3 seconds.
• Adjust oil as needed, check for leaks, button everything up.

Final Drive (Transmission Lubrication) Oil Change (~3 liters Shell Spiral S5 ATE 75W90 Fully Synthetic)

• Raise car and ensure it is level
• Find transmission temperature on the plug in computer
• Take pics of underbody panel overlap
• Remove underbody covers (35 total including 8 x aircraft Phillips, 10 black flange nuts, 17 silver bolt/washer)
  • felt panel (Trans oil only)
  • Fins left and right (slide to rear)
  • Upper diffuser
  • 
• Remove E-torx metal backing plate covering 1E plug
• remove damper mounting screws

• Remove 1(e). remove 1(a) and collect Lubrication oil, remove additional 1(a) and collect the oil
• Replace (1a) A0019908717 on both to 25 Nm
• Fill with oil until it starts dripping out the hole. Allow is to drain. (~ 3 liters)
• Replace fill plug and tighten to 25 Nm
• Run Engine for 1 min at idle, do not allow trans temp to exceed 104F
• Remove fill screw, and fill with oil until it start dripping out the hole. Allow it to drain.
• Replace fill plug and tighten to 25 Nm

Transmission (Hydraulic) DCT Oil Change (~7 liters of Motul DCTF)

• Remove DCT hydraulic fill plug (2e)
• Remove DCT hydraulic drain plug (2a), drain and collect hydraulic DCT fluid (5-6 liters)
• Replace 2a with new plug and gasket, tighten to 25 Nm
• Add DCT hydraulic fluid using adapter and add about 1 liter more than oil removed.
• Start engine and shift thru all gears several times at idle
• Allow transmission temperature to raise to 60C 140F (pyrometer)
• Detach adapter and allow excess oil to drain.
• Replace hydraulic oil fill plug (2e) and tighten to 25 Nm

————

• Check for leaks
• Replace all underbody panels in proper order

Green_Hell

1. It is near impossible to get the transmission temperature up to 140 F without driving it for a while.
2. Keep the bolts and nuts for each section of the under trays with each under tray, take lots of pics during disassembly.
3. It is a messy job (it was for me!), have plenty of rags and a drip tray under the operation.
4. Make sure the car is level on your lift as the first thing you do.
5. My Motive Brake flushing tool had a hose diameter that fit exactly and tightly in the DCT fill hole, I will measure and report back. This made the hydraulic fluid job a lot easier.
6. Pumping out the oil from the motor oil tank before removing the tank plug makes the oil change job a lot easier.
7. Recommended order is Transmission lubricating fluid first, then DCT, then oil change - this is the best way to manage temperatures.

dowheelies

I’ll start by saying I HAVE NOT done this full service just yet but it’s on my radar so my insight is just in researching the process… Thanks for your insight and the others previous.
5. Great to know. I have used my Motive set-up multiple times since buying that could be quite useful info! Great small investment for those who do your own maintenance. Initially for me it was the best way to properly bleed a drag car with master cylinder under the floor.

6. Although easier/cleaner I believe this will leave a fair amount of oil in the cooler circuit. The rush of oil draining out pulls the oil out of the lines/cooler via the vacuum the rush of oil creates. This was the same as our drag car too oddly enough… one of the guys here had better details on the amounts. Possibly earlier in this thread, downside is you will have a bit of old oil mixed in with your new and likely overfill if you didn’t measure what came out and match it.

Green_Hell

On #6, I did the oil change with the pump method (Pump, drain tank, drain sump, drain filter, remove filter) and I capture a total of 6.5 liters of used oil. I believe the total amount of oil in the system is 9 liters. Doing the oil change the MB (Messy Benz) way I understand anecdotally you will pull a little under 7 liters. You will always have 2 liters that you are unable to access. Given the tradeoffs with simplicity and cleanliness, and the fact that I do oil changes more frequently than advised as a preemptive measure, the difference in up to half a liter is worth the tradeoff to me. To some it may not be.

Green_Hell

REVISED OIL CHANGE PROCESS (IN RED)

Motor Oil Change (8 quarts of 5w40 Liqui Moly plus OEM oil filter, plus drain plug)

• Warm up the engine
• Idle engine in mode C for 30 sec
• Put car on lift
• Pump oil from dipstick tube (5 to 5.5 liters)
• Unscrew drain stop (15b) on tank (collect and measure, less than 100 ml)
• Unscrew and drain (15b) on sump, (collect and measure) - remove filler cap. (less than 1 liter)
• Remove drain from Oil filter housing and collect oil (300-400ml)
• Remove and Replace oil filter element
• Replace oil filter and seal ring, tighten to 25Nm
• Replace oil drain plug and gasket (000908014009) and tighten to 30Nm
• Refill with measured amount of oil or 6.5 liters.
• Run engine until warm, run engine for 30 seconds at a constant speed around 2K rpm.
• Switch engine off and measure oil at dipstick within 2 minutes, with a wait time of 3 seconds.
• Adjust oil as needed, check for leaks, button everything up.

descartesfool

I do not bother taking out the tank's drain stop (15b) with the above method as there is just a minuscule amount of oil that comes out. It's not like you are washing all the engine parts for a rebuild. There is always old oil left in any engine, transmission or differential when doing a drain and fill. Less than 1/10 of a liter is not worth the bother for me.