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Can you post some pictures that aren’t quite so close?
ZPs can look like a hooker having the busiest night of her life, but still able to go another couple of rounds. In other words they look like they’re toast, but if there isn’t any intrinsic tread damage as recently posted from our colleague in PR where the whole centre block was delaminating, the tyre can easily tolerate another track day or two. With vigourous driving the outer tread block delineation essentially disappears, just leaving the inner two radial lines. Also, the tyre picks up rubber debris like mad which again makes it look like it is shot. Wiping them down to remove the picked up debris when the tyres’ been hot can change the looks of them quite a bit.
What were your cold/hot pressures? There is one picture showing that you maybe were ‘rolling over’ on the tyre too much which could be from too low a psi.
I used to run hoosiers r7 on the stock GTR wheels. I like them more than the cup 2 for the track as it's more of a "slick" but I currently run pirelli/michelin slicks on a set of track wheels.
Tried to keep the psi around 32-34. One session I started too low and maxed around 30. Another session (first) they crept to 37/38 but I came off.
Last two sessions the grip was non existent compared to the start of the day and when they were new. Last laps were 2-3 seconds off my best laps. Did 5 20 minute runs but 2 I cut short.
Honestly to me they look exactly how a ZP put to hard use normally looks. I would say that you should at least get another track weekend out of them. Many guys on the Corvette forum run them until there is zero ‘tread’ gap showing.
As for grip: they don’t take kindly to a very fast lap when cold; it’s best to run at 7/10ths the first green flag lap and then go ***** to the wall. Also, they always get ‘greasy’ around lap 8-9 of a 2-2.5 mile circuit.
I would also keep playing with tyre pressures. With my local track which is primarily an anti-clockwise circuit I would generally always run with 1 psi less in the right front versus the other three tyres to try and keep all of them around the 32-34 psi range at the end of the session.
There is no doubt the ZP is a compromise: it’s fast, yes, but also very heavy due to being an RFT; hence it generates lots of heat. It is the only track tyre that allows you to drive to/from the track however. Ultimately getting a second set of wheels and running the R7’s is the way to go, along with a rollbar and belts.
Bish
Last edited by thebishman; Jul 2, 2020 at 10:13 PM.
I would also be curious to run the cup 2 zp with track connect to see if they can help you with running optimal pressure. I have not heard from anyone personally about the track connect but it could be worth looking into
I edited my last post as of course I meant my right front, not left front regarding lowering that specific tyre’s psi.
As to driving on the street to/from the track on Hoosier’s: strongly recommended not to do so. lol
Knew what you meant! Yeah, the roll cage I am looking into now. I was trying to hold out to see if I could sneak into the Black Series allocation for our dealership - but now know that even if they get one it certainly is not going to me haha. Going to a long time car collector and customer who will garage it...unfortunately as I would have beaten the **** out of it.
I'm using the Toyo R888R and love them. I start about 26/28 PSI and get them up to the mid 30's and balanced temps on my pyrometer in the 170F range and they stick like glue. Even with my 750HP/680TQ they just hook out of corners on my car. Oh and I had my alignment like Bish at -2.5 Camber all the way around.
I'm using the Toyo R888R and love them. I start about 26/28 PSI and get them up to the mid 30's and balanced temps on my pyrometer in the 170F range and they stick like glue. Even with my 750HP/680TQ they just hook out of corners on my car. Oh and I had my alignment like Bish at -2.5 Camber all the way around.
I would also be curious to run the cup 2 zp with track connect to see if they can help you with running optimal pressure. I have not heard from anyone personally about the track connect but it could be worth looking into
**** Track Connect.
I have it and Michelin will give you ZERO support. Michelin will only support vehicles that have 'Connect' sized tires in OEM sizes. For the app to work you have to first select your car from the menu, if your car is not in the menu, you have to contact Michelin to have the car added. You cannot go any further into the app until the car is selected. After 2 weeks, Michelin did respond to my request (in French) and stated that they could not support the GTR as "Connect' tires do not come in GTR OEM sizes. I did reply that the ZP tire size was offered briefly ROW for the GTR. Michelin did not respond. Also, I requested that Michelin add my local track to their database as there is the ability to request tracks to be added. That request also went unanswered.
There is a workaround as you can select the Z06/Z07 Corvette, but then I had a connectivity issues at the track and the receiver could not find the sensors. At that point I was pretty pissed off and just went racing.
I am going to attempt contacting Michelin again and give the app another go under the Corvette selection. Then I am done with it. Pretty expensive fail.
Originally Posted by jn66View Post
thanks! also wtf you running with 750hp?
2016 AMG GTS with Weistec W.3 ... it made 650HP and 645TQ to the wheels on a Dynojet Dyno in the Florida Heat. This is on 93 Oct the Blue lines are with the Weistec W.1
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Last edited by Tigerflyboy; Jul 7, 2020 at 04:23 PM.
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