I have developed a strange problem with my car:

About 4 months ago, I left it with a detail shop to have the wheels powder coated. They had it for two nights and when I picked it up, it had no power. It started and sounded fine, but it felt like the turbos weren't doing their job. The turbo indicator on the dash (in the AMG screen) would indicate max boost at the slightest throttle input although the was clearly no boost being produced.

I did some research and some common issues seemed to be either exhaust valve failure, or low voltage due to battery discharge. The exhaust valves seemed to be opening and closing (to my ear), so I drifted towards the low voltage theory (thinking the powder coater may have left the doors open/fob in the car/whatever. I took it to a friend who is a master mechanic at Infinity to have him read/clear the codes since that seemed to be a possible solution to the low voltage issue. There were many, many codes in storage, which he cleared. The car was immediately back to life and all was well.

Fast forward to two days ago. Drove it about 45 minutes, made a visit for about thirty minutes and when I got back in the car, the problem was back. On the drive home, same deal. No Power. Along the way, I also got a low tire pressure warning, although it showed the pressure was exactly the same as the other three. The pressure stayed constant the whole drive until I parked it, and then it actually went up one PSI, but the warning remained. The next day (yesterday), I went back out to check the situation. This time, TWO low pressure indicators, although the displayed readings are within limits.

I have taken the car in to have it looked at, but would like some education so I can know what types of thing to expect when they call.

Thanks!
Peter

 

The need for software upgrade could be the culprit.

 

Is that a general update? Do you know what precipitated it?

 

There is a general update for 2016. Could be that the car was jump started improperly while at the tire shop.

 

It would be helpful to know what codes the Master Tech read and deleted.

 

Yeah, I agree. There were tons. The thought was to start fresh since there were so many. Maybe the new scan won't be so overwhelming.

I'll check into the update.

 

The thing about the code(s), they are clues in solving a mystery. If the clues are destroyed, then it becomes a guessing game. It is also important to see and understand the sequence in which the codes were generated as that's a major clue.

Here is a hypothetical example that might be close to your issue - Let's say a low voltage condition is your problem and upon startup the EMS generates something like a P0562. Modules on the can bus (on any make/model I've seen) have a threshold voltage which is around 11.8v. If you're at or below the threshold, as these modules try to power up and connect to the bus, they fail to start or completely start. This then can generate a flurry of U-Codes. Thus the large # of codes that can appear to be either related or unrelated, but to me, the P0562 would be the first clue.

A master Tech usually carries the title BC he/she has a deeper understanding of EMSs and the codes and patterns mean something more than maybe to an apprentice tech. I don't mean to impugn the expertise of your friend, but wonder what made him just delete them w/o noting the codes. Also, a tech at an Infinity shop probably didn't have a scan tool that would have read anything other than P-codes in an MB without either a master scan tool or a MB specific scan tool, so wouldn't have seen any of B,C or U-codes.

I assume you were showing a CEL, which the tech cleared? But now the CEL is back on? If so, have the codes read and let's see what you have.

 

A bad/low battery will cause all kinds of erratic codes,was that ever checked? This is the first car I have owned with a LI battery is it original and could the shop have hurt it ?

 

He actually did have the appropriate scan tool, and I took a picture of all the codes, but alas, I deleted them when I cleared a bunch of (what I thought was) worthless crap off my phone about a month ago. No CEL either time. Just crazy power loss.

 

I didn't check, but I keep it on the OEM charger when parked. It is 5 yrs old at this point, so I guess it could be time. I understand they are insanely expensive!

 

Iirc multiple error codes like this are often indicative of a bad battery, either low charge or bad cell.

 

hi My 2016 amg gts experiences power loss. I just purchased the car from the dear about a month ago and I have experienced this twice. First time it happened I took it to the dealer and they said everything is ok. And the car was back to normal. I thought they might have clear the codes. After a few weeks, the problem happened again and this time I took it to MB dealer. But no problem was found and the power is still lost. I am wondering whats your solution? We have exactly the same problem!

 

Did you find out why? I have exactly the same problem, my 2016 gts power loss and it back to normal after I sent it to the dealer. Then the problem came back again! Do you think a stage 1 tuning could help?

 

Check for stuck exhaust valves, as that will force the car into limp mode.

 

Theweezersdad:

I think what Acta is trying to convey is for you to go back to your mechanic friend and have all of the codes cleared.
Then when the first code is registered capture it. It is the root cause of your problem in most instances.

Good luck!!

 

That post is from 2021, hopefully they eventually resolved the power loss.

 

Folks. I've had these symptoms happen. For me it was a turbo protection mode when you flip exhaust to sport mode too quick after startup. Car doesn't like it and is a common failure for the exhaust flaps from my research.

REMEDY: I just put an OBD2 reader, clear the codes a few times (just for good measure) and then car went back to normal power/turbo readings. I keep an OBD2 thingy with it just in case. Also seems to happen when you "rev" it idling.

 

I've never heard of that happening to anyone else, tbh. I'd wonder if it isn't a symptom of failing exhaust flaps, that are soon to be stuck, and require a new exhaust.

 

So I bought my 16 GTS a month ago and 2 days after driving it I lost all boost. Took it to my local MB dealership and they said I needed a software upgrade but if it persisted, then I need to replace my vacuum lines and purge valve. 2 days after the software upgrade I lost all boost again. Had the vacuum lines and purge valve replaced. 3 days after driving it again, no boost. I am at a loss right now. However, the last time I lost boost I started the car and switched to Sport + fairly quickly. I did take it to my local Autozone to read any codes and none came up. The loss of boost seems to happen after I start it after a drive and not from the first start of the day for each instance, but this could be because I switch to Sport + too quickly?! The exhaust changes when I cycle through the different modes though so could this still be a probable culprit? Is there a way to clear any codes or reset it even though its not throwing any codes??

 

Not sure if this is possible but why not push the start button without foot on the brake pedal, switch to S+ and then start the car.

 

Most likely culprits for this issue are usually driveshaft recall needed, stuck exhaust valve, plugs, or coil packs.