Anybody regret tuning?
#27
Forced myself to stay stock for the first 6 months of ownership, and the change was dramatic. When I had recall work done they flashed my ECU, and in the time it took to get retuned (holidays), the car felt so sluggish by contrast.
#28
Ahh, I think might go down this exact route. Have you tracked yours? I think I want to bring mine to the track once or twice as stock, tune it, and then bring it back to the track to really test out the differences
#29
It only takes me about ten minutes to tune and de-tune with my OE Tuning. You could easily go back and forth during one track day.
#30
#31
#32
They had a great sale, can customize, easy home flash and return to stock for service, good reviews, and they answered the phone every time I called. They are in California. https://www.oetuning.com/products/me...-benz-amg-gt-c
#33
It was a year end sale $1k all in. Eurocharge was a lot more at the same time. Haven't shopped since. I'm completely indifferent. I'm just sharing my personal experience.
#34
#35
Super Member
Summary of what I wrote:
Second cat delete is what I did. Only the main cats be monitored, no error message.
With K&N airfilters, rest was stock, the torque without any tune was 630 flbs. Its working. (After tune 725 flbs)
So that it would not be noticed during the German general inspection, which is every 2 years (cat delete is apparently worse than murder here)
I left the cat housing and only removed the inner metalcat. Then (already bought) didn't want to set a v-band. That is also recognizable.
Want not remove the gearbox just for that.
So, in self-defense, i removed 90% of the second cat through the rear exhaust opening. In the condition: installed in the car.
Should have become a gynecologist. :-)
Have removed the innards of the second cats very often. But those were always ceramic cats.
It's more easy because they break. And then of course removed from the car.
In GT very high quality metalcats are built in. Lighly (with perforated surfaces) 3-fold winding centers, cross-pinning. Unfortunately very stable.
That's why the removal took 2 days. In an inhumane working posture.
I am very pleased. Completely invisible, knock test, doesn't sound hollow, as the housing is double-walled / insulated.
Works well, and even a positive cost balance, sell the cat leftovers to a catreceycler for about 300 USD. Nice tip.
and:
I can't understand the removal of the main cats. Precisely because there are monitoring problems.
These cats are very high quality. See the location, directly behind the turbos, with a large entrance pipe cross-section, as not very restrictive.
Especially since the highest pressure of the entire exhaust system is applied here.
The 2nd catalytic converter is more problematic in terms of flow. I consider it useful to remove these. There are no monitoring problems either.
The increase in performance is limited here. Estimate around 20 HP at high RPM.
The "sound" also changes for the better without yelling at you.
Here the cost (+ - 0) to benefit factor is good.
Best regards
Stenzel
#36
Member
Thanks Stenzel. I wouldn't mind a tad louder exhaust sound so I might consider secondary cat removal. I keep my cars registered in a county where emissions are not inspected, so little concerns for me in that area.
On tuning, I was planning to drive my car for 6 months and then get a Eurocharge dyno tune. Before that happened I also went with the OE tune sale. Very easy, very happy. I assume Eurocharge would have given proportionately more HP for more money, so either seems a great option.
On tuning, I was planning to drive my car for 6 months and then get a Eurocharge dyno tune. Before that happened I also went with the OE tune sale. Very easy, very happy. I assume Eurocharge would have given proportionately more HP for more money, so either seems a great option.
#37
Not sure why you keep piling on. It makes contributing here a negative experience. At the time I purchased OE Tuning it was much much less expensive or I would have probably gotten Eurocharge. I haven't checked prices since then. I have had a very good experience with OE Tuning. Unless you work for Eurocharge, I'm not sure why you keep countering my comments. Pretty immature.
#38
Member
I addd a Renntech tune within 2 months of purchase, and purchased a Renntech EVM + deleted secondaries last year. The sound change after deleting the secondaries was substantial but not overbearing. It took me a bit to warm up to it, but now I love the new character.
Outside of 2 instances of misfires over a year ago, I've had no issues and am completely in love with the character of the car. Haven't tracked her yet due to prioritizing other ways to spend my money, but she does so well @ 7/10 spirited driving levels.
A warning though, if you are like me, taking the step of a tune may lead you to wanting to take the next step of upgrading turbos
Outside of 2 instances of misfires over a year ago, I've had no issues and am completely in love with the character of the car. Haven't tracked her yet due to prioritizing other ways to spend my money, but she does so well @ 7/10 spirited driving levels.
A warning though, if you are like me, taking the step of a tune may lead you to wanting to take the next step of upgrading turbos
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Last edited by Hetzle; 03-04-2022 at 12:20 PM.
#39
Not sure why you keep piling on. It makes contributing here a negative experience. At the time I purchased OE Tuning it was much much less expensive or I would have probably gotten Eurocharge. I haven't checked prices since then. I have had a very good experience with OE Tuning. Unless you work for Eurocharge, I'm not sure why you keep countering my comments. Pretty immature.
Last edited by Orcbolg; 03-04-2022 at 01:22 PM.
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Arizona
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Bentley Continental GT; AMG GT
Hi Jan,
Summary of what I wrote:
Second cat delete is what I did. Only the main cats be monitored, no error message.
With K&N airfilters, rest was stock, the torque without any tune was 630 flbs. Its working. (After tune 725 flbs)
So that it would not be noticed during the German general inspection, which is every 2 years (cat delete is apparently worse than murder here)
I left the cat housing and only removed the inner metalcat. Then (already bought) didn't want to set a v-band. That is also recognizable.
Want not remove the gearbox just for that.
So, in self-defense, i removed 90% of the second cat through the rear exhaust opening. In the condition: installed in the car.
Should have become a gynecologist. :-)
Have removed the innards of the second cats very often. But those were always ceramic cats.
It's more easy because they break. And then of course removed from the car.
In GT very high quality metalcats are built in. Lighly (with perforated surfaces) 3-fold winding centers, cross-pinning. Unfortunately very stable.
That's why the removal took 2 days. In an inhumane working posture.
I am very pleased. Completely invisible, knock test, doesn't sound hollow, as the housing is double-walled / insulated.
Works well, and even a positive cost balance, sell the cat leftovers to a catreceycler for about 300 USD. Nice tip.
and:
I can't understand the removal of the main cats. Precisely because there are monitoring problems.
These cats are very high quality. See the location, directly behind the turbos, with a large entrance pipe cross-section, as not very restrictive.
Especially since the highest pressure of the entire exhaust system is applied here.
The 2nd catalytic converter is more problematic in terms of flow. I consider it useful to remove these. There are no monitoring problems either.
The increase in performance is limited here. Estimate around 20 HP at high RPM.
The "sound" also changes for the better without yelling at you.
Here the cost (+ - 0) to benefit factor is good.
Best regards
Stenzel
Summary of what I wrote:
Second cat delete is what I did. Only the main cats be monitored, no error message.
With K&N airfilters, rest was stock, the torque without any tune was 630 flbs. Its working. (After tune 725 flbs)
So that it would not be noticed during the German general inspection, which is every 2 years (cat delete is apparently worse than murder here)
I left the cat housing and only removed the inner metalcat. Then (already bought) didn't want to set a v-band. That is also recognizable.
Want not remove the gearbox just for that.
So, in self-defense, i removed 90% of the second cat through the rear exhaust opening. In the condition: installed in the car.
Should have become a gynecologist. :-)
Have removed the innards of the second cats very often. But those were always ceramic cats.
It's more easy because they break. And then of course removed from the car.
In GT very high quality metalcats are built in. Lighly (with perforated surfaces) 3-fold winding centers, cross-pinning. Unfortunately very stable.
That's why the removal took 2 days. In an inhumane working posture.
I am very pleased. Completely invisible, knock test, doesn't sound hollow, as the housing is double-walled / insulated.
Works well, and even a positive cost balance, sell the cat leftovers to a catreceycler for about 300 USD. Nice tip.
and:
I can't understand the removal of the main cats. Precisely because there are monitoring problems.
These cats are very high quality. See the location, directly behind the turbos, with a large entrance pipe cross-section, as not very restrictive.
Especially since the highest pressure of the entire exhaust system is applied here.
The 2nd catalytic converter is more problematic in terms of flow. I consider it useful to remove these. There are no monitoring problems either.
The increase in performance is limited here. Estimate around 20 HP at high RPM.
The "sound" also changes for the better without yelling at you.
Here the cost (+ - 0) to benefit factor is good.
Best regards
Stenzel
I knew you had posted a piece on the mid cats and would have some very good "hands on" experience.
I laughed at the Gynecologist part...and pictured in my mind exactly what you were doing at that moment.....hahaaa....
All the Best,
Acta
The following users liked this post:
Stenzel-Germany (03-04-2022)
#41
Junior Member
Hi Jan,
Summary of what I wrote:
Second cat delete is what I did. Only the main cats be monitored, no error message.
With K&N airfilters, rest was stock, the torque without any tune was 630 flbs. Its working. (After tune 725 flbs)
So that it would not be noticed during the German general inspection, which is every 2 years (cat delete is apparently worse than murder here)
I left the cat housing and only removed the inner metalcat. Then (already bought) didn't want to set a v-band. That is also recognizable.
Want not remove the gearbox just for that.
So, in self-defense, i removed 90% of the second cat through the rear exhaust opening. In the condition: installed in the car.
Should have become a gynecologist. :-)
Have removed the innards of the second cats very often. But those were always ceramic cats.
It's more easy because they break. And then of course removed from the car.
In GT very high quality metalcats are built in. Lighly (with perforated surfaces) 3-fold winding centers, cross-pinning. Unfortunately very stable.
That's why the removal took 2 days. In an inhumane working posture.
I am very pleased. Completely invisible, knock test, doesn't sound hollow, as the housing is double-walled / insulated.
Works well, and even a positive cost balance, sell the cat leftovers to a catreceycler for about 300 USD. Nice tip.
and:
I can't understand the removal of the main cats. Precisely because there are monitoring problems.
These cats are very high quality. See the location, directly behind the turbos, with a large entrance pipe cross-section, as not very restrictive.
Especially since the highest pressure of the entire exhaust system is applied here.
The 2nd catalytic converter is more problematic in terms of flow. I consider it useful to remove these. There are no monitoring problems either.
The increase in performance is limited here. Estimate around 20 HP at high RPM.
The "sound" also changes for the better without yelling at you.
Here the cost (+ - 0) to benefit factor is good.
Best regards
Stenzel
Summary of what I wrote:
Second cat delete is what I did. Only the main cats be monitored, no error message.
With K&N airfilters, rest was stock, the torque without any tune was 630 flbs. Its working. (After tune 725 flbs)
So that it would not be noticed during the German general inspection, which is every 2 years (cat delete is apparently worse than murder here)
I left the cat housing and only removed the inner metalcat. Then (already bought) didn't want to set a v-band. That is also recognizable.
Want not remove the gearbox just for that.
So, in self-defense, i removed 90% of the second cat through the rear exhaust opening. In the condition: installed in the car.
Should have become a gynecologist. :-)
Have removed the innards of the second cats very often. But those were always ceramic cats.
It's more easy because they break. And then of course removed from the car.
In GT very high quality metalcats are built in. Lighly (with perforated surfaces) 3-fold winding centers, cross-pinning. Unfortunately very stable.
That's why the removal took 2 days. In an inhumane working posture.
I am very pleased. Completely invisible, knock test, doesn't sound hollow, as the housing is double-walled / insulated.
Works well, and even a positive cost balance, sell the cat leftovers to a catreceycler for about 300 USD. Nice tip.
and:
I can't understand the removal of the main cats. Precisely because there are monitoring problems.
These cats are very high quality. See the location, directly behind the turbos, with a large entrance pipe cross-section, as not very restrictive.
Especially since the highest pressure of the entire exhaust system is applied here.
The 2nd catalytic converter is more problematic in terms of flow. I consider it useful to remove these. There are no monitoring problems either.
The increase in performance is limited here. Estimate around 20 HP at high RPM.
The "sound" also changes for the better without yelling at you.
Here the cost (+ - 0) to benefit factor is good.
Best regards
Stenzel
Thanks.
#42
Super Member
Thanks Stenzel. I wouldn't mind a tad louder exhaust sound so I might consider secondary cat removal. I keep my cars registered in a county where emissions are not inspected, so little concerns for me in that area.
On tuning, I was planning to drive my car for 6 months and then get a Eurocharge dyno tune. Before that happened I also went with the OE tune sale. Very easy, very happy. I assume Eurocharge would have given proportionately more HP for more money, so either seems a great option.
On tuning, I was planning to drive my car for 6 months and then get a Eurocharge dyno tune. Before that happened I also went with the OE tune sale. Very easy, very happy. I assume Eurocharge would have given proportionately more HP for more money, so either seems a great option.
Did you change anything in the transmission software?
With an engine tuning (= more torque) it makes sense to do the gearbox as well.
You can use the TCU software to increase the "pressure" on the clutch. (Previously, stronger disc springs were installed). The clutch will thank you without slipping. :-)
The thresholds of the transmission torque limitations have to be adjusted anyway.
I'm not an expert here. That's "my tuner of trust" (formerly AMG employee with a focus on ECM / TCU software) explained it to me.
Best regards
Stenzel
#43
So that it would not be noticed during the German general inspection, which is every 2 years (cat delete is apparently worse than murder here)
I left the cat housing and only removed the inner metalcat. Then (already bought) didn't want to set a v-band. That is also recognizable.
Want not remove the gearbox just for that.
So, in self-defense, i removed 90% of the second cat through the rear exhaust opening. In the condition: installed in the car.
...
In GT very high quality metalcats are built in. Lighly (with perforated surfaces) 3-fold winding centers, cross-pinning. Unfortunately very stable.
That's why the removal took 2 days. In an inhumane working posture.
I am very pleased. Completely invisible, knock test, doesn't sound hollow, as the housing is double-walled / insulated.
Works well, and even a positive cost balance, sell the cat leftovers to a catreceycler for about 300 USD.
I left the cat housing and only removed the inner metalcat. Then (already bought) didn't want to set a v-band. That is also recognizable.
Want not remove the gearbox just for that.
So, in self-defense, i removed 90% of the second cat through the rear exhaust opening. In the condition: installed in the car.
...
In GT very high quality metalcats are built in. Lighly (with perforated surfaces) 3-fold winding centers, cross-pinning. Unfortunately very stable.
That's why the removal took 2 days. In an inhumane working posture.
I am very pleased. Completely invisible, knock test, doesn't sound hollow, as the housing is double-walled / insulated.
Works well, and even a positive cost balance, sell the cat leftovers to a catreceycler for about 300 USD.
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#44
Super Member
Hi,
It takes a lot of effort to do it that way. In an impossible working position.
But I wanted / need it to be absolutely invisible. That's why I didn't install the planned V-Band clamps between the cats.
If you live in a country without emissions hysteria :-) do it. Here the downpipe must have a clamp as standard.
Otherwise you have to remove the gearbox if you must remove the downpipe.
Cutting out the cats and using a suitable pipe is completely out of the question.
Cats cutting out, modifying and weld in, unfortunately, too. The welds are machine welded.
No matter how well you can weld, you can't do it that way.
And would also require that you expand everything, including the gearbox.
Have the rear exhaust system an the reinforcement cross, removed. Detached the downpipes from the turbos.
Result, no vibrations / impacts on the cast housing of the turbos. And if you need to vacuum, air can flow in.
Tools were long (75cm) drill bits of 30mm and 10mm diameter. Extended small and large chisels, various hammers, (I like to work with hard plastic hammers),
Sharpened V4A tubes with various diameters (looked like infusion needles for titans), flashlight and vacuum cleaner. Camera.
Blood, sweat and tears. Real despair and loss of will to live. LOL
t was important to inspect the downpipes with a camera at the end. Really had 1 Cat part invisibly pushed forward and up.
Best regards
Stenzel
It takes a lot of effort to do it that way. In an impossible working position.
But I wanted / need it to be absolutely invisible. That's why I didn't install the planned V-Band clamps between the cats.
If you live in a country without emissions hysteria :-) do it. Here the downpipe must have a clamp as standard.
Otherwise you have to remove the gearbox if you must remove the downpipe.
Cutting out the cats and using a suitable pipe is completely out of the question.
Cats cutting out, modifying and weld in, unfortunately, too. The welds are machine welded.
No matter how well you can weld, you can't do it that way.
And would also require that you expand everything, including the gearbox.
Have the rear exhaust system an the reinforcement cross, removed. Detached the downpipes from the turbos.
Result, no vibrations / impacts on the cast housing of the turbos. And if you need to vacuum, air can flow in.
Tools were long (75cm) drill bits of 30mm and 10mm diameter. Extended small and large chisels, various hammers, (I like to work with hard plastic hammers),
Sharpened V4A tubes with various diameters (looked like infusion needles for titans), flashlight and vacuum cleaner. Camera.
Blood, sweat and tears. Real despair and loss of will to live. LOL
t was important to inspect the downpipes with a camera at the end. Really had 1 Cat part invisibly pushed forward and up.
Best regards
Stenzel
Last edited by Stenzel-Germany; 03-04-2022 at 05:39 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Orcbolg (03-04-2022)
#45
Stenzel,
It sounds like you DO NOT recommend your method of 'deleting' secondary cats?!?
I really don't want to delete (cut and remove) the factory cats... as I'd like to keep the appearance stock. I am not worried about emission inspections; however, I do like a 'stock' appearance.
In your opinion, if I do decide to delete the secondary cats, does it matter how big a bend in the 2.5" aluminum tube?
Jan
It sounds like you DO NOT recommend your method of 'deleting' secondary cats?!?
I really don't want to delete (cut and remove) the factory cats... as I'd like to keep the appearance stock. I am not worried about emission inspections; however, I do like a 'stock' appearance.
In your opinion, if I do decide to delete the secondary cats, does it matter how big a bend in the 2.5" aluminum tube?
Jan
#46
Super Member
Hi Jan,
Removing the 2nd cat is a must (for me) But there are several easier ways to do this.
Certainly, I can recommend removing it this way. But only if the optical virginity :-) of the stock downpipes is absolutly priority 1.
I am very satisfied with the invisible result.
It seems to apply to you too. :-)
Just want to show that the way there is not easy.
In your opinion, if I do decide to delete the secondary cats, does it matter how big a bend in the 2.5" aluminum tube?
I do not understand this question. Which aluminum tube do you mean?
Best regards
Stenzel
Removing the 2nd cat is a must (for me) But there are several easier ways to do this.
Certainly, I can recommend removing it this way. But only if the optical virginity :-) of the stock downpipes is absolutly priority 1.
I am very satisfied with the invisible result.
It seems to apply to you too. :-)
Just want to show that the way there is not easy.
In your opinion, if I do decide to delete the secondary cats, does it matter how big a bend in the 2.5" aluminum tube?
Best regards
Stenzel
Last edited by Stenzel-Germany; 03-05-2022 at 04:16 AM.
#47
The following users liked this post:
Stenzel-Germany (03-04-2022)
#48
Super Member
Hi,
O.k. Thanks Orcbolg. Now undersand the question.
Its not Aluminium. Its stainless steel and the inputs and outputs are slightly offset.
Best regards
Stenzel
O.k. Thanks Orcbolg. Now undersand the question.
Its not Aluminium. Its stainless steel and the inputs and outputs are slightly offset.
Best regards
Stenzel
#49
Senior Member
Anyone did TCU tune to their GT-R’s? I have eurocharged tune and i miss how it used to shift seamlessly before.. now the car feels much faster and shifting a bit slower..
ive been told TCU tune will fix that
ive been told TCU tune will fix that
#50
Thank you Orcbolg, thank you for the correction. Was making the wife dinner and sending out message at the same time.
I wasn't sure if the 2.5" stainless replacement pipe required any bend for re-attachment.
I wasn't sure if the 2.5" stainless replacement pipe required any bend for re-attachment.