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Hi, was looking at some CCB’s the other day and was wondering if these pads should be replaced or they look like they have more then 50% of life in them.
How thin you want them to get largely depends upon whether you run the car on race tracks. If you don't, you should be fine waiting for the sensor to be hit (about 3 MM of pad remaining). If you do, I'd replace when the thinnest pad is about 5 or 6 MM. BTW, with track running, don't expect the sensors to work. From my experiences, the heat destroys the sensors and they don't work. I created a "shorted plug" that I use so I don't waste money on sensors for tracked AMGs. I do, however measure/record the pad thickness after each track event and also do a quick visual check after each session, just in case.
Originally Posted by HHS550
Under none abusive use, they should go up to 100,000 miles.
I think you're thinking of the rotors, not the pads. Even with street-only driving, I think it's unlikely that the pads would last half that (OK, maybe if you were using a "high mileage" driving style, but that's unlikely for a GT owner). Driving style can also have a huge effect on the life of pads that are only street-driven, easily making a 25% difference.
How thin you want them to get largely depends upon whether you run the car on race tracks. If you don't, you should be fine waiting for the sensor to be hit (about 3 MM of pad remaining). If you do, I'd replace when the thinnest pad is about 5 or 6 MM. BTW, with track running, don't expect the sensors to work. From my experiences, the heat destroys the sensors and they don't work. I created a "shorted plug" that I use so I don't waste money on sensors for tracked AMGs. I do, however measure/record the pad thickness after each track event and also do a quick visual check after each session, just in case.
I think you're thinking of the rotors, not the pads. Even with street-only driving, I think it's unlikely that the pads would last half that (OK, maybe if you were using a "high mileage" driving style, but that's unlikely for a GT owner). Driving style can also have a huge effect on the life of pads that are only street-driven, easily making a 25% difference.
How thin you want them to get largely depends upon whether you run the car on race tracks. If you don't, you should be fine waiting for the sensor to be hit (about 3 MM of pad remaining). If you do, I'd replace when the thinnest pad is about 5 or 6 MM. BTW, with track running, don't expect the sensors to work. From my experiences, the heat destroys the sensors and they don't work. I created a "shorted plug" that I use so I don't waste money on sensors for tracked AMGs. I do, however measure/record the pad thickness after each track event and also do a quick visual check after each session, just in case.
I think you're thinking of the rotors, not the pads. Even with street-only driving, I think it's unlikely that the pads would last half that (OK, maybe if you were using a "high mileage" driving style, but that's unlikely for a GT owner). Driving style can also have a huge effect on the life of pads that are only street-driven, easily making a 25% difference.
How much pad life before you are replacing for tracking? I have RSC1 and they seem to come way thicker than the oem pads
How much pad life before you are replacing for tracking? I have RSC1 and they seem to come way thicker than the oem pads
how have the RSC1s been for you? I heard they can be used for non track daily use and apparently are more quiet than oem pads during daily use. Has that been your experience too? Thanks
How much pad life before you are replacing for tracking?
Looks like I got 14 track days out of my first set of pads ... though they were the TiKT pads which are (supposedly) an improved version of pads made for TiKT (a special version of the RSC pad). To be fair, a couple of those track days were minimal due to rain. In any event, the RSC pads seem to have amazing track life (IIRC, I'm now on RSC1 pads since TiKT couldn't supply theirs).
I find that the pads are fine for street use except that they will squeal when in "mid range" use ... e.g., after a couple of "pulls" followed by heavy braking to come back under "impound speed." No squeal when cold or on-track hot. They're also slightly "grabby" when cold, but the modulation and pedal feel is so finite that it's trivial to adapt.
Actually, thinking about this, I maybe shouldn't doubt that you could get more than 50K mi on these pads ... as others have already indicated. Hey, maybe 100K mi is doable if your driving situation/style is relatively easy on brakes.
how have the RSC1s been for you? I heard they can be used for non track daily use and apparently are more quiet than oem pads during daily use. Has that been your experience too? Thanks
yeah I dont hear much noise at all hot or cold, love them so far on track. I did manage to fade it once but that was my mistake and i ended up ABSing really hard, bite recovered pretty quickly.
thats awesome, 14 days is a lot, did you try to run them to 50% before swapping or ran them almost all the way?
I'll prob weigh my rotors too when i swap, interestingly I searched through the forums and couldnt find anyone that actually managed to use up their CCB rotors
thats awesome, 14 days is a lot, did you try to run them to 50% before swapping or ran them almost all the way?
I'll prob weigh my rotors too when i swap, interestingly I searched through the forums and couldnt find anyone that actually managed to use up their CCB rotors
I ran them down to about 5 MM (about 30% remaining).
IIRC, Canucklehead was told his were toast but I doubt they were measured via a Carboteq tool so could easily have been "misdiagnosed." Weighing them is difficult because the weight difference is small and they need to be impeccably cleaned prior to wearing. The WIS procedure using the "circle markers" is virtually useless and, from what I've seen, will almost always result in a "worn rotor" _long_ before they're worn, if you're running them on the track (and maybe also if your only running them on the street).
Yeah, it'd be nice to accumulate some meaningful real body of data on CCB rotors.
how have the RSC1s been for you? I heard they can be used for non track daily use and apparently are more quiet than oem pads during daily use. Has that been your experience too? Thanks
Even though it generally isn’t good practice, I used the RSC1s on my ‘18 GTR for Street and Track purposes and thought they were excellent. Great braking performance regardless of weather conditions and no more noise than the OEM pads. As others have mentioned they ‘might’ be 1-2 mm thicker than the OEM pads, but don’t quote me on that.
As for when to replace: for track purposes you don’t want to let the pad get more than 2/3rds worn or the extra heat transferred to the rotor can accelerate oxidation, which you really want to avoid at all costs if possible. So around 4mm; 3mm at an absolute minimum remembering the inner pad wears faster and can be prone to taper. On the Street you should be fine letting the pads run down to 3mm.
I ran them down to about 5 MM (about 30% remaining).
IIRC, Canucklehead was told his were toast but I doubt they were measured via a Carboteq tool so could easily have been "misdiagnosed." Weighing them is difficult because the weight difference is small and they need to be impeccably cleaned prior to wearing. The WIS procedure using the "circle markers" is virtually useless and, from what I've seen, will almost always result in a "worn rotor" _long_ before they're worn, if you're running them on the track (and maybe also if your only running them on the street).
Yeah, it'd be nice to accumulate some meaningful real body of data on CCB rotors.
It's interesting that the wear marker is useless. I do wonder how do people assess the when the CCB is done for tracking. Maybe that's why most people just switch to steel girodiscs for the track.
It's interesting that the wear marker is useless. I do wonder how do people assess the when the CCB is done for tracking. Maybe that's why most people just switch to steel girodiscs for the track.
The "wear-indicator switch" is useless because it disintegrates at high temps. It was the same on my C63 S with iron rotors. So if you do try to run the pads on the track until the indicator works, you're likely to get the nasty surprise of hitting the steel backing after using up all the pad material.
I once did that on my C63 S. Surprisingly, the brakes were still quite good ... a little grabby, very noisy, but still lots of braking! Score one for steel brake pads ... and, punn-ily, I mean that literally (rotors with the "highest score" lose).
When doing track running, one should always be giving the pads (and tires) a quick-look evaluation at the end of each session ... especially until you get to know how those particular pads (and tires) wear on that track and car (taking into account how you're driving). I've seen people not realize they've "corded" their front tires during the day and were about to run another session. That's definitely more risk than I'd want to take!
<cluck, cluck>
The "wear-indicator switch" is useless because it disintegrates at high temps. It was the same on my C63 S with iron rotors. So if you do try to run the pads on the track until the indicator works, you're likely to get the nasty surprise of hitting the steel backing after using up all the pad material.
I once did that on my C63 S. Surprisingly, the brakes were still quite good ... a little grabby, very noisy, but still lots of braking! Score one for steel brake pads ... and, punn-ily, I mean that literally (rotors with the "highest score" lose).
When doing track running, one should always be giving the pads (and tires) a quick-look evaluation at the end of each session ... especially until you get to know how those particular pads (and tires) wear on that track and car (taking into account how you're driving). I've seen people not realize they've "corded" their front tires during the day and were about to run another session. That's definitely more risk than I'd want to take!
<cluck, cluck>
I was talking about the wear indicator marker on the CCB rotor itself. It's pretty easy to know if the pad is close to being done.
In relative terms MB CCB pads are inexpensive. I track my GTR and I replace the pads when I am down to 30% or less. Good cooling also helps. You should see how expensive the McLaren CCB pads are!
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