Tracking a '19 AMG GT-C
forgive me for shorty hijacking the discussion, but is a GTR really that inadvisable for road use (albeit driven very sporty, mainly on mountain roads and highways, no city), compared to a GTC?
For the same model year and simlar mileage, the price difference here in Europe is around 20-25k $, but from an aesthetic point of view, the GTR is much more appealing (fixed wing, front bumper, rear bumebr&diffuser with mufller triple exit etc..), not to mention the differences in terms of technical specifications and performance... Would it really be a bad choice to buy a GTR if driven 95% of time on road?
For the same model year and simlar mileage, the price difference here in Europe is around 20-25k $, but from an aesthetic point of view, the GTR is much more appealing (fixed wing, front bumper, rear bumebr&diffuser with mufller triple exit etc..), not to mention the differences in terms of technical specifications and performance... Would it really be a bad choice to buy a GTR if driven 95% of time on road?
Please review this thread carefully from the beginning to understand the context behind the statement: “I completely agree with your assessment of the GTR’s price premium over the GTC, particularly when the primary use is public-road driving.”
The OP mentioned that, in the used car market, the 2019 GTR carried a 30–40% price premium over the same-year GTC, which he chose not to pay. Considering that his primary use is public-road driving, this decision is entirely reasonable, and I share that view.
Nothing negative was said about the GTR. In fact, if you refer back to post #10, the opening paragraph clearly reflects respect for the GTR ..
Last edited by G. P; Nov 5, 2025 at 09:27 PM.
Never said that you cannot drive the GTR daily. But having both the GTR and GTC at the same time for a while, I could notice differences in cabin noise over bumps, stiffer cornering and a bit less softer rid . It was not a big difference, but could be noticed noticeable. (both cars where on the CUP 2 275/325 tires)
Last edited by G. P; Nov 5, 2025 at 09:28 PM.
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2019 AMG GT R
forgive me for shorty hijacking the discussion, but is a GTR really that inadvisable for road use (albeit driven very sporty, mainly on mountain roads and highways, no city), compared to a GTC?
For the same model year and simlar mileage, the price difference here in Europe is around 20-25k $, but from an aesthetic point of view, the GTR is much more appealing (fixed wing, front bumper, rear bumebr&diffuser with mufller triple exit etc..), not to mention the differences in terms of technical specifications and performance... Would it really be a bad choice to buy a GTR if driven 95% of time on road?
For the same model year and simlar mileage, the price difference here in Europe is around 20-25k $, but from an aesthetic point of view, the GTR is much more appealing (fixed wing, front bumper, rear bumebr&diffuser with mufller triple exit etc..), not to mention the differences in terms of technical specifications and performance... Would it really be a bad choice to buy a GTR if driven 95% of time on road?
despite the suspension, i do still find the gtr not at home in traffic but thats just the nature of the beast and the dct trans imo
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2019 AMG GT-C
forgive me for shorty hijacking the discussion, but is a GTR really that inadvisable for road use (albeit driven very sporty, mainly on mountain roads and highways, no city), compared to a GTC?
For the same model year and simlar mileage, the price difference here in Europe is around 20-25k $, but from an aesthetic point of view, the GTR is much more appealing (fixed wing, front bumper, rear bumebr&diffuser with mufller triple exit etc..), not to mention the differences in terms of technical specifications and performance... Would it really be a bad choice to buy a GTR if driven 95% of time on road?
For the same model year and simlar mileage, the price difference here in Europe is around 20-25k $, but from an aesthetic point of view, the GTR is much more appealing (fixed wing, front bumper, rear bumebr&diffuser with mufller triple exit etc..), not to mention the differences in terms of technical specifications and performance... Would it really be a bad choice to buy a GTR if driven 95% of time on road?
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2019 AMG GT-C
Never said that you cannot drive the GTR daily. But having both at the same time, I did notice differences in cabin noise over bumps, stiffer cornering and a bit less softer rid . It was not a big difference, but could be noticed noticeable. (both cars where on the CUP 2 275/325 tires)
honestly suspension wise i actually find the gtr to be more compliant than the c63s coupe I had before. The ride inside the gtr is much less jarring than that c63s when im on downtown torontos crappy roads. No interior rattles either.
despite the suspension, i do still find the gtr not at home in traffic but thats just the nature of the beast and the dct trans imo
despite the suspension, i do still find the gtr not at home in traffic but thats just the nature of the beast and the dct trans imo
Here is a video of my 2018 AMG C63S on a smooth stretch of the autobahn in Frankfurt, Germany. In S+ mode, with new and perfectly balanced tires, the car still exhibited noticeable vibration and harshness.
Its active aerodynamic system generates a Venturi effect beneath the chassis, increasing downforce and stability at high speed. This gives the GTR a measurable edge in cornering precision and exit speed, particularly on fast or technical circuits.
It reminds me of a session at Thompson Raceway in Connecticut where I was leading the group and the car was performing flawlessly—until a spec Miata suddenly overtook me. Moments like that are a great reminder that on the track, you never truly know what’s under the hood or who’s behind the wheel.
Check this video regarding some of the aero elements of the GTR:
Last edited by G. P; Nov 5, 2025 at 09:25 PM.
Are you absolutely positive that AP Racing specifically makes their BBKs for the AMG GT line?
There are companies that make adapters so that you can make an AP Racing BBK fit the car, but iirc this is not recommended by AP Racing, and hence I would not chance it.
I just checked the AP Racing website and couldn’t find any BBKs designed for Mercedes.
There are companies that make adapters so that you can make an AP Racing BBK fit the car, but iirc this is not recommended by AP Racing, and hence I would not chance it.
I just checked the AP Racing website and couldn’t find any BBKs designed for Mercedes.
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not the ring but numbers wise GT R was about 2 seconds and a bit faster than GT S at Laguna seca (Motortrend/Randy Pobst), I'd expect GTC to be in the middle there, so not worlds of difference and with driver skill / some mods you can easily erase that
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I do see a lot of postings about CCB rotors that seem to be misleading. As such, I am (maybe too?) quick to point out the data I have. #;-)
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From: Delray Beach, FL
'18 AMG GTC, '96 BMW 318i, '25 Ram RHO
Here are the primary track-focused features that distinguish the AMG GTR from the GTC.
The GTR benefits from a significantly stiffer suspension setup and reinforced chassis, enabling sharper cornering response and improved agility in low- and mid-speed turns.
Its enhanced aerodynamic package—including a larger fixed rear wing, extended front splitter, and active underbody aero elements—allows for higher cornering speeds and improved stability at elevated velocities.
Additionally, the GTR’s wider front rims and tires, paired with track-oriented compound rubber, deliver superior mechanical grip and steering precision.
The adjustable rear wing can be configured for reduced drag on slower, grip-dependent circuits or increased downforce for high-speed stability on faster tracks.
Finally, the higher engine output provides an additional performance margin, particularly noticeable on longer straights and during acceleration out of corners.
While suspension modifications can narrow the gap between the two models, they come with substantial trade-offs in ride comfort and handling balance. Executing these changes correctly is technically demanding and often disrupts the car’s carefully tuned dynamics.
For that reason, enthusiasts seeking a truly track-optimized platform are better served starting with the GTR as a base.
Most other enhancements—such as aero or wheel and tire upgrades—are easier to apply to the GTC and have a relatively minor impact on street drivability.
My recommendations below are based on my experience with spirited driving a 2019 GTR and longer term 2020 GTC, daily on public roads, with 4-5 track days and additional 1-2 HPDE days a year, and includes information gathered from members of this forum on GTCs over the years. It’s just my opinion so don’t follow it 😊
Tires and Brakes
Tires and brakes are the two most critical components for both performance and safety in a high-output vehicle such as the AMG GT. Every aspect of grip, stability, and stopping power ultimately depends on them.
For optimal safety and performance, a two sets of wheels configuration is highly recommended: one set for public road use and another for track applications.
If maintaining two sets is not feasible, a compromise must be made. You will either use a road-biased setup that underperforms on track or a track setup that sacrifices daily drivability, comfort, and all-weather safety, where Track-oriented tires typically: a) perform poorly in wet conditions, b) generate more cabin noise and transmit greater vibration, c) have a shorter lifespan, and d) are unsafe below approximately 40°F (4°C) due to compound hardening.
For your public-road driving in warm climates, mild winters, or occasional rain, using the OEM rims, the most balanced options are:
Track Setup
When transitioning to the racetrack, tire choice becomes critical for both performance consistency and driver safety. While many brands claim superior grip or heat cycles, Michelin remains the benchmark for AMG GT models, with most variants developed specifically for Mercedes-AMG applications (MO and MO1 codes).
These tires offer predictable behavior at the limit—vital for confidence during high-load maneuvers.
For drivers still developing track proficiency, starting with summer street tires is acceptable. Once ready to push harder, upgrade to Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (240) or the older Cup 2 (180) which is the OEM tire that comes with the GTR.
If using only one-wheel set (GTC OEM):
These are lighter, stronger, and specifically engineered for track duty.
OEM AMG GTR Forged Wheel Specifications:
Recommended Track Tires for GTR Forged Wheels:
Brakes
The OEM braking system on the AMG GTC is exceptional for both spirited street driving and occasional performance use.
However, several key upgrades can enhance braking consistency, reduce stopping distances, and improve driver confidence under track conditions.
Brake Cooling:
Proper brake cooling is absolutely critical for track use. The factory setup is marginal and often insufficient during extended high-temperature operation. As brake fluid temperatures rise, pedal travel increases and can lead to noticeable fade—a well-documented limitation in the GT series (with the possible exception of the GTR Pro).
The TIKT TGT-B-001 front cooling ducts are highly recommended. They channel a substantial volume of air into the center of the front rotors, dramatically improving heat evacuation.
When paired with Girodisc rotors, this system efficiently vents hot air from the rotor periphery, significantly reducing operating temperatures and thermal stress.
Rotors:
The Girodisc A1-123 front and A2-148 rear rotors are direct-fit replacements for the OEM discs. These rotors are slotted rather than drilled, providing superior structural integrity and thermal management. Their internal vane design features curved, directional channels that pull air through the center of the rotor more efficiently than the OEM’s honeycomb-style pin layout. When combined with proper cooling ducts, they maintain consistent performance throughout repeated heavy braking cycles.
Brake Pads:
Pairing the Girodisc rotors with PAGID RSL29 pads provides an ideal balance of street and track performance. The correct fitment for the GTC is shape #8238 for the front calipers and shape #8246 for the rears. These pads deliver excellent modulation, linear friction response, and fade resistance, with a consistent coefficient of friction between 0.41 and 0.45 from 100°C to 700°C.
They are street-drivable, durable, and compatible with the factory wear sensors.
For dedicated track applications, Girodisc GP20 or GP40 pads offer higher bite and heat tolerance, though they are considerably more aggressive and unsuitable for casual road use.
Brake Fluid:
To prevent pedal fade under extreme thermal load, high-quality brake fluid is essential. Two top-performing options are:
Overall, this combination—optimized cooling, Girodisc rotors, PAGID pads, and high-temperature fluid—transforms the GTC braking system into a setup that performs consistently and safely under demanding track conditions while remaining manageable for street use.
(I will follow shortly with Aerodynamics and Tuning info)
The GTR benefits from a significantly stiffer suspension setup and reinforced chassis, enabling sharper cornering response and improved agility in low- and mid-speed turns.
Its enhanced aerodynamic package—including a larger fixed rear wing, extended front splitter, and active underbody aero elements—allows for higher cornering speeds and improved stability at elevated velocities.
Additionally, the GTR’s wider front rims and tires, paired with track-oriented compound rubber, deliver superior mechanical grip and steering precision.
The adjustable rear wing can be configured for reduced drag on slower, grip-dependent circuits or increased downforce for high-speed stability on faster tracks.
Finally, the higher engine output provides an additional performance margin, particularly noticeable on longer straights and during acceleration out of corners.
While suspension modifications can narrow the gap between the two models, they come with substantial trade-offs in ride comfort and handling balance. Executing these changes correctly is technically demanding and often disrupts the car’s carefully tuned dynamics.
For that reason, enthusiasts seeking a truly track-optimized platform are better served starting with the GTR as a base.
Most other enhancements—such as aero or wheel and tire upgrades—are easier to apply to the GTC and have a relatively minor impact on street drivability.
My recommendations below are based on my experience with spirited driving a 2019 GTR and longer term 2020 GTC, daily on public roads, with 4-5 track days and additional 1-2 HPDE days a year, and includes information gathered from members of this forum on GTCs over the years. It’s just my opinion so don’t follow it 😊
Tires and Brakes
Tires and brakes are the two most critical components for both performance and safety in a high-output vehicle such as the AMG GT. Every aspect of grip, stability, and stopping power ultimately depends on them.
For optimal safety and performance, a two sets of wheels configuration is highly recommended: one set for public road use and another for track applications.
If maintaining two sets is not feasible, a compromise must be made. You will either use a road-biased setup that underperforms on track or a track setup that sacrifices daily drivability, comfort, and all-weather safety, where Track-oriented tires typically: a) perform poorly in wet conditions, b) generate more cabin noise and transmit greater vibration, c) have a shorter lifespan, and d) are unsafe below approximately 40°F (4°C) due to compound hardening.
For your public-road driving in warm climates, mild winters, or occasional rain, using the OEM rims, the most balanced options are:
- Michelin Pilot Super Sport (is the OEM came with your GTC)
- Front: 265/35ZR19 (98Y) MO
- Rear: 305/30ZR20 (103Y) MO
- Optional rear upgrade: 335/30ZR20 (108Y) NO, for enhanced stance and grip.
- Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, an excellent alternative,
- Front: 265/35ZR19 (98Y) MO1
- Rear: 305/30ZR20 (103Y).
Track Setup
When transitioning to the racetrack, tire choice becomes critical for both performance consistency and driver safety. While many brands claim superior grip or heat cycles, Michelin remains the benchmark for AMG GT models, with most variants developed specifically for Mercedes-AMG applications (MO and MO1 codes).
These tires offer predictable behavior at the limit—vital for confidence during high-load maneuvers.
For drivers still developing track proficiency, starting with summer street tires is acceptable. Once ready to push harder, upgrade to Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (240) or the older Cup 2 (180) which is the OEM tire that comes with the GTR.
If using only one-wheel set (GTC OEM):
- Front: 265/35ZR19 (98Y) MO1 Cup 2 (180), or 275/35ZR19 (100Y) MO CUP 2(180)
- Rear: 325/30ZR20 (106Y) MO (Cup 2 (180)),
; narrower tires than 325 will not seat properly on the 12” rear rims.
These are lighter, stronger, and specifically engineered for track duty.
OEM AMG GTR Forged Wheel Specifications:
- Front: A190 401 13 00 — 10Jx19 ET56
- Rear: A190 401 14 00 — 12Jx20 ET52
Recommended Track Tires for GTR Forged Wheels:
- Front: Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (240) 275/35ZR19 (100Y)
- Rear: Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (240) 345/30ZR20 (106Y)
Brakes
The OEM braking system on the AMG GTC is exceptional for both spirited street driving and occasional performance use.
However, several key upgrades can enhance braking consistency, reduce stopping distances, and improve driver confidence under track conditions.
Brake Cooling:
Proper brake cooling is absolutely critical for track use. The factory setup is marginal and often insufficient during extended high-temperature operation. As brake fluid temperatures rise, pedal travel increases and can lead to noticeable fade—a well-documented limitation in the GT series (with the possible exception of the GTR Pro).
The TIKT TGT-B-001 front cooling ducts are highly recommended. They channel a substantial volume of air into the center of the front rotors, dramatically improving heat evacuation.
When paired with Girodisc rotors, this system efficiently vents hot air from the rotor periphery, significantly reducing operating temperatures and thermal stress.
Rotors:
The Girodisc A1-123 front and A2-148 rear rotors are direct-fit replacements for the OEM discs. These rotors are slotted rather than drilled, providing superior structural integrity and thermal management. Their internal vane design features curved, directional channels that pull air through the center of the rotor more efficiently than the OEM’s honeycomb-style pin layout. When combined with proper cooling ducts, they maintain consistent performance throughout repeated heavy braking cycles.
Brake Pads:
Pairing the Girodisc rotors with PAGID RSL29 pads provides an ideal balance of street and track performance. The correct fitment for the GTC is shape #8238 for the front calipers and shape #8246 for the rears. These pads deliver excellent modulation, linear friction response, and fade resistance, with a consistent coefficient of friction between 0.41 and 0.45 from 100°C to 700°C.
They are street-drivable, durable, and compatible with the factory wear sensors.
For dedicated track applications, Girodisc GP20 or GP40 pads offer higher bite and heat tolerance, though they are considerably more aggressive and unsuitable for casual road use.
Brake Fluid:
To prevent pedal fade under extreme thermal load, high-quality brake fluid is essential. Two top-performing options are:
- Castrol React SRF: Wet boiling point 518°F / Dry 608°F — ideal for drivers alternating between track and street use due to its stability and longevity.
- Torque RT700: Wet 439°F / Dry 683°F — slightly better dry temp for the first track sessions, though it requires more frequent changes due to the average wet temp .
Overall, this combination—optimized cooling, Girodisc rotors, PAGID pads, and high-temperature fluid—transforms the GTC braking system into a setup that performs consistently and safely under demanding track conditions while remaining manageable for street use.
(I will follow shortly with Aerodynamics and Tuning info)
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2019 AMG GT-C
@2gosu I have been tracking my '18 GTC since '19. Probably 30+ track days with it. Since I am in SoFla, would love to meet up if you ever make it to Sebring. I rarely see other AMG GT cars out there, so it would be good to run with another. I generally agree with what's posted here. I have TIKT brake ducts and Pagid RS29s all around. Castrol SRF. Several years ago, I got Bishman's SV501s from his GTR and they fit great for track use with Cup2s, so the wider wheels and tires fit on the GTC. I did install 2-way Bilstein dampers, so that's non-stock. For the most part, I think the difference between a stock GTC and GTR will be more driver than car. PM me if you want to meet up at Sebring or share notes on the GTC.
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 257
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From: Delray Beach, FL
'18 AMG GTC, '96 BMW 318i, '25 Ram RHO
The only reliability issue I have had on track a power steering issue, where I dumped all the fluid in turn 17. That will get your attention. It simultaneously blew the AC compressor. There is something about the packaging of the AC & power steering (on the same belt I think) where both are stressed when you push the car. So the advice is to shut off your AC whenever you run on track and it avoids the problem. Also, when you come off track and open your door to exit, make sure to pull the parking brake release since it auto engages. Otherwise it will clamp down on your hot rotors and warp them.
The only other reliability issue I have had has been ignition coils at around 40K miles. So look to change those around then.
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2019 AMG GT-C
Originally Posted by BucsFan;[url=tel:9232156
9232156[/url]]It's been terrific.
The only reliability issue I have had on track a power steering issue, where I dumped all the fluid in turn 17. That will get your attention. It simultaneously blew the AC compressor. There is something about the packaging of the AC & power steering (on the same belt I think) where both are stressed when you push the car. So the advice is to shut off your AC whenever you run on track and it avoids the problem. Also, when you come off track and open your door to exit, make sure to pull the parking brake release since it auto engages. Otherwise it will clamp down on your hot rotors and warp them.
The only other reliability issue I have had has been ignition coils at around 40K miles. So look to change those around then.
The only reliability issue I have had on track a power steering issue, where I dumped all the fluid in turn 17. That will get your attention. It simultaneously blew the AC compressor. There is something about the packaging of the AC & power steering (on the same belt I think) where both are stressed when you push the car. So the advice is to shut off your AC whenever you run on track and it avoids the problem. Also, when you come off track and open your door to exit, make sure to pull the parking brake release since it auto engages. Otherwise it will clamp down on your hot rotors and warp them.
The only other reliability issue I have had has been ignition coils at around 40K miles. So look to change those around then.
It's been terrific.
The only reliability issue I have had on track a power steering issue, where I dumped all the fluid in turn 17. That will get your attention. It simultaneously blew the AC compressor. There is something about the packaging of the AC & power steering (on the same belt I think) where both are stressed when you push the car. So the advice is to shut off your AC whenever you run on track and it avoids the problem. Also, when you come off track and open your door to exit, make sure to pull the parking brake release since it auto engages. Otherwise it will clamp down on your hot rotors and warp them.
The only other reliability issue I have had has been ignition coils at around 40K miles. So look to change those around then.
The only reliability issue I have had on track a power steering issue, where I dumped all the fluid in turn 17. That will get your attention. It simultaneously blew the AC compressor. There is something about the packaging of the AC & power steering (on the same belt I think) where both are stressed when you push the car. So the advice is to shut off your AC whenever you run on track and it avoids the problem. Also, when you come off track and open your door to exit, make sure to pull the parking brake release since it auto engages. Otherwise it will clamp down on your hot rotors and warp them.
The only other reliability issue I have had has been ignition coils at around 40K miles. So look to change those around then.
The A/C load issue and the risk of parking brake seizure are common concerns for any street-derived chassis used in HPDE or open-track environments.
Most advanced driving programs instruct participants to avoid engaging the parking brake when returning to pit lane and to avoid running the A/C while on track.
Operating the A/C system elevates engine-bay temperatures due to condenser heat rejection and imposes additional parasitic load through the compressor clutch engagement.
This added load increases stress on all belt-driven accessories, which typically results in higher coolant, radiator, and auxiliary fluid temperatures.
Sustained thermal load under track conditions can accelerate wear or precipitate component failure.
Regarding brake rotor protection, in addition to disengaging the parking brake, a sound pit-lane practice is to roll the vehicle a few inches every two to three minutes for approximately ten minutes.
This procedure prevents the pads from imprinting a high-temperature hot spot on the rotor face, which reduces the likelihood of localized thermal damage and subsequent vibration.
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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Delray Beach, FL
'18 AMG GTC, '96 BMW 318i, '25 Ram RHO
I don't think there is a fix since it's a fundamental design issue. Except for Daytona, I run with windows down, so it doesn't bother me much. I got the power steering / AC thing fixed under warranty by the local dealer a few years ago. The AMG tech "ignored" that I track so corporate would cover it. For everything else, I have an aftermarket shop here in Delray Beach. Are you nearby? I can introduce you.
I can't recall any recurring reports that have surfaced in this forum experiencing component failures related to these factors, not to say it cannot happen.
Last edited by G. P; Nov 9, 2025 at 10:37 AM.
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Posts: 257
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From: Delray Beach, FL
'18 AMG GTC, '96 BMW 318i, '25 Ram RHO
Make a proper cool-down lap after each session, run the car with the A/C off, and open the hood once you return to the pits so the next stint begins with a lower engine-bay temperature.
I can't recall any recurring reports that have surfaced in this forum experiencing component failures related to these factors, not to say it cannot happen.
I can't recall any recurring reports that have surfaced in this forum experiencing component failures related to these factors, not to say it cannot happen.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2021
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2019 AMG GT-C
Originally Posted by BucsFan;[url=tel:9232187
9232187[/url]]I don't think there is a fix since it's a fundamental design issue. Except for Daytona, I run with windows down, so it doesn't bother me much. I got the power steering / AC thing fixed under warranty by the local dealer a few years ago. The AMG tech "ignored" that I track so corporate would cover it. For everything else, I have an aftermarket shop here in Delray Beach. Are you nearby? I can introduce you.
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2019 AMG GT-C
have you made any camber adjustments at all? I'm not sure how to set this chassis up or if there are any builtin adjustments to be made
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From: Delray Beach, FL
'18 AMG GTC, '96 BMW 318i, '25 Ram RHO
I am now at 2.5 degrees negative all around. With my Bilsteins, I am also a bit over 0.75" lower.
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2019 AMG GT-C
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 257
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From: Delray Beach, FL
'18 AMG GTC, '96 BMW 318i, '25 Ram RHO
General driving on my street tires, it's not bad. I do not see much excessive wear on the inside edges of the tires, but it will inevitably wear more with additional negative camber. I am willing to deal with it to have a better on track set up. Also I get about the same number of track days with this set up as I did before, but I appreciate the grip level with the camber + Cup2s. I do go through tires pretty fast on track, usually 6-7 track days (avg. 2-2.5 hrs of actual track time / track day), but I push them pretty hard. I do monitor my tires after each session. Occasionally, I have been down to cords on the inside fronts.
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the wear's been pretty good, I was on vitour P1s and now on CRS
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It's likely that much of the info from this thread will apply:
https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...shim-info.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/coupe-roa...shim-info.html
