Greg@DI

You certainly don't have to add a coat of wax after applying the FMJ. The FMJ is very shinny and looks great alone. I think a good carnauba wax adds some more depth and gloss but it's not a must have. Some people think the FMJ looks so good that waxes actually dull it, I personally prefer both. Generally speaking detailing is all relative to how each individual person views the detail and its results. My best advice is to try and find a set of products that best meets your needs (shine, protection, length of application, etc). Good luck with the detail and let me know if you have any more questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

m a x i m u s

greg,

sorry for all of the questions, but as i do more research, more questions pop up in my head.

(1) i was reading the how-to on sealant application (by hand), and it mentions "detailer spray". is that the same as the "spray & wipe" product on your site? can distilled water in a spray bottle be used instead?

(2) given my regimen of P21S washing, SSR 2.5, SSR 1, 3M Glaze, and FMJ, can you recommend type and quantity of (a) microfibre towels and (b) applicators? is it recommended that i use seperate towels and applicators for each of the products? or is it safe to "cross contaminate"?

thanks!

Greg@DI

Maximus, don't worry about the questions at all, we're here to help. Its great to hear you get in to detailing and really understanding it. We're here to help customers before, during and after any sale. Now to your questions:

1.) Detailer spray is essentially a quick detailer and yes the Spray and Wipe is a quick detailer (one of my favorites). Distilled water can help but its not a true replacement because it doesn't provide as much lubrication as a quick detailer. While spraying a little quick detailer on your applicator helps it's certainly not a must have. Some people don't do this at all, I prefer an occasional spray. It's somewhat personal preference, but don't worry if you don't have a quick detailer.

2.) Great questions. I highly recommend having one applicator pad per product. Especially with the products you have selected I would want to be sure you don't mix products. Maybe look at our 5 pack of Microfiber Applicator Pads or our Hand Applicator Kit. The same applies for the microfiber towels, mixing products can be counter productive so in my opinion never mix the product on towels. As for how many microfiber towels you need, I would estimate you are going to 8 - 12 towels at least for those steps. If you also use a clay bar you'll also probably need an additional two towels. I think a ten pack of our general purpose microfiber towels would be perfect for this detail. Both the applicator pads and towels are washable and very durable.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

m a x i m u s

to be honest, it will be a little while before i have time for a detail, but i like to get as informed as possible. you can look for an order from me probably in the coming weeks, though. thanks, greg!

Greg@DI

I look forward to shipping you some great products when you're ready. You're smart to get all the info you need first. Let me know if I can provide you with any other information to help you.

Greg @ Detailed Image

430cruz

I recently picked up a '99 CLK 430 in brilliant silver that has red & black painted on pinstripes. I really don't like them too much.
Any suggestions for removing them? I read through as many posts as possible but did not find one for this.

Thanks.

Greg@DI

Removing a pinstripe can usually be done pretty easily. I typically use a blow dryer or heat gun. I start warming up the edge of the pin stripe and then gently start peeling away. The heat helps loosen the adhesive holding the pinstripe and makes removing the stripe much easier. I usually have to move pretty slow and keep heating up the area that I am peeling away. Let me know if you have any trouble with this method and I can explain some other possibilities.

After you remove the pinstripe there may be difference between the preserved clear coat underneath the pinstripe and the exposed clear coat surrounding that area. To ensure the clear coat has a uniform appearance you should polish the area. I like the Menzerna Final Polish II but there are many good polishes out there that can help.

Greg @ Detailed Image

430cruz

Thanks for the info but I think you missed the part about the stripes being painted on.

Greg@DI

Sorry about that, you're right thats a different process. To be honest I would not consider myself an expert on removing painted stripes. It can be done but it's a much more involved process. I don't have a write up of this process because it's not something we typically do or help people do. I'll try to find a good write up on it or I'll ask TOGWT.

Greg @ Detailed Image

killatee18

If I use the Menzerna Final Polish II by HAND, can I still expect to remove some swirls??? I have a brand new 2007 Arctic White E350 that I took through a machine car wash about 4-5 times and I see swirls/spider webbing. Approximately how long should it take for me to polish my car with this product? Thanks!

Greg@DI

Yes the FPII will remove swirls by hand. However when doing it by hand the results will vary tremendously. A product like a wax needs minimal pressure to adhere to the surface. A polish needs to be broken down and properly worked in to the surface with good consistent heat and pressure. A buffer can consistently deliver safe levels of heat and pressure that work the polish in evenly. This doesn't mean you can't do it by hand but it just a lot harder to keep good firm pressure throughout a whole detail. As for how long with this process takes by hand I would estimate a good job would take 1.5 - 2 hours. If you want information on the safe and easy to use Porter Cable 7424 let me know. Without seeing your paint it sounds like most likely you'll need a medium and light cutting polish with the Porter Cable 7424 to get the clear coat looking like new again. We explain polishing by hand or with a buffer in more detail on our polishing instructions page, which I highly encourage you to read. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

R. Range

I recently picked up an '04 ML500, and thus far have had no success in getting the brake dust off the wheels. I've owned several dozen cars over the last 30+ years, including several Mercedes (currently have 3), BMW's, etc. so I'm very familiar with how German cars produce brake dust. But I've never seen anything like this. I'd say this car produces dust at a somewhat higher rate than my '06 CLK350 (which gives off quite a bit), but the CLK wheels clean up pretty easily. The dust on the ML just flat won't come off the stock wheels for some reason--it's like it's powdercoated on there. I've tried everything I could think of including a pressure washer (which had zero effect). Now some of this may be due to the previous owner not cleaning the wheels often enough, but it seems that even what has gotten on there since the last time I tried to clean them won't come off very well either. Is there a solution to this problem short of having the wheels professionally stripped and repainted and starting over? Thanks!

Greg@DI

Wow this sounds like some serious brake dust. I assume you've tried some generic cleaners, but if you could list what you have tried that will help me come up with new options for you. You said the wheels are stock so I assume there is some sort of coating on them. Is there a coating on the wheels? Is there any pitting going on with the wheel? Sometimes brake dust repeatedly hits the same areas and will cause pitting. Does the brake dust feel like it's above the surface, flush with it or beneath the surface of the wheel. Any pictures you have would help too. Once I have some of this information I'll try to come up with a list of options for you.

Greg @ Detailed Image

rlee02135

the wheels must have been refinished...
on my old C230, i had 2 wheels refinished and the brake dust wouldn't come off easily. the factory finish has a clearcoat which most dealer's companies don't use (they refinish the wheels in the dealer's garage)

R. Range

I think you may be correct. The painted wheels on the ML (those portions of the wheel without brake dust that is) definitely do not feel as slick as the painted wheels on my CLK, and I've been wondering why that is.

Greg, to answer your other questions, I've tried a couple of generic spray on cleaners, as well as some metal polish type products like the wadding (I think Eagle One may make it--didn't work at all), and Blue Magic (did remove some after MUCH rubbing, but at the rate I was going it would take roughly 6 months to clean one wheel even if it kept working). Yesterday I got mad and tried some Greased Lightnining with a stainless steel bristle brush, which did remove the dust on the moderately dirty spot I tried, but also appeared to have removed much of the paint. The problem as I see it is I need something abrasive enough to get this bonded dust off without removing the paint, and I'm not sure that's possible. Might be better off to either have them refinished or keep my eyes open for a replacement set of wheels that someone has taken care of.

Greg@DI

rlee02135 provided some good insight that could possibly explain the situation. Uncoated wheels that are painted are notorious for getting dirty quick and not being easy to clean. Typically painted wheels should not be cleaned with acidic wheel cleaners or even some metal polishes. You could try the P21S Finish Restorer but that may take a long time to clean. You could try a cutting/abrasive polish but you might buff off some of the polish too. I've used the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 on some coated wheels with great success but I have yet to try them on painted wheels. There is no guarantee this would work but it may be a good option to try. You would have to be careful though because of the surface not being coated.

Possibly the best option is what you stated either refinishing them or getting a different wheel. Good luck and let us know what you decide!

Greg @ Detailed Image

Krytech

Hi Greg. Thanks for all your valuable information you've provided us with your posts. I have a product I'd like to get your opinion on.

I'm picking up a new Obsidian black C Class later this month. I stopped by the dealer the other day and while I was there I asked the finance guy what
else they were going to try and sell me and he told me to think about a paint protection product called Strike Force. The following is from their website at www.jmestrikeforce.com

<snip>
Strike Force I Exterior Protectant comes with a five year guarantee. If Strike Force fails to protect the surface as outlined in our warranty form, Strike Force will repair the affected surface and re-apply the protective coating free of charge.

Strike Force I benefits:

Protects Against Harmful UV Rays
Protects Against Bug Guts & Bird Droppings
Prevents Brake Dust Build Up
Paint & Graffiti Wipes Right Off
Resists Oxidation & Fading
No Waxing / Just Washing
5 Year Coverage No Reapplication Needed
</snip>

They said it costs $399 installed.

Common sense tells me this is probably just a money maker for the dealer and may not last 2 years let alone 5. I have read a *few* posts from people who have had other types of dealer paint protection products installed and have been generally happy with the results.

The dealer said that they usually have a car on the floor with the hood treated with Strike Force and they would let customers spray paint it and bounce pennies off the hood try to damage it.

So my question is basically, how does this product (from their claims) differ from something like Menzerna's FMJ or another high quality sealant?

I'm new to proper car detailing, as the most I've ever done is hand wash my previous cars and rubbed on some wax once or twice. I need something least likely to get washed off when I go through a touch-less car wash in the winter and I'd like to go with something that will last longer than wax does.

Lastly, if I do buy the Strike Force, are these things fairly easy to remove later if I don't like it? If it only lasts a year or two, is there anything that will need to be done before I put something else on in its place?

Sorry for the book of a post. And thanks in advance for your advice!

GL Troll

Think of it this way: if there was such a product, it’d be very well known because many people would want it - that is, if it did everything they claim. So, this dealership, in essence, wants you to believe that they have some little known stuff made by some unknown company that does what all the labs in all the reputable car care companies couldn’t come up with. All for only $400. There’s a miniscule chance that I’m wrong and they do have a miracle product. In that case wait for others to verify it first. Then read in a couple months here on this forum how great it is and get it done on your car. But that’s not going to happen.

Beware the “finance guy/girl”. Their real job is selling you extras you probably don’t need. $400 could buy at least a couple of thorough exterior details by a detailer.

Greg@DI

Krytech thank you for the detailed post, this makes my job much easier. First and foremost I have never used the service you mentioned nor do I have any direct knowledge about their specific products. What I will share with you is what I've learned about general automotive protection plans that protect for 5 years. I tend to associate these services with the word "scam" but thats probably taking it a little too far. Your vehicle probably will be well protected after the service but I just don't know how long it is truly protected for.

All of the products I have I use when detailing typically protect for months, not years. The best sealants on the market that I know of could maybe protect for one year in very ideal conditions. I could not find anything on there site that explained how their polymers protect for so much longer. I think really the key to making an informed decision would be to find out more about how this service will actually protect your paint and for how long.

Another question I regularly ask myself is why is this service not offered on any vehicle besides new ones. I understand the guarantee or replacing parts couldn't be the same but if it would still protect for five years I'd be happy to have it reapplied every five years. If these products offer such durable protection I'm not sure why other companies are not selling them to detailers. I'd be happy to invest in any product line that could protect a surface 10X longer than the average product we carry. My last question that I always think of is if I totally neglect a brand new vehicle would it really suffer that damage to those surface they protect.

I highly encourage you to carefully read their contract as well. Often times there are lots of clauses and disclaimers that can relieve them of virtually all of the liability. Again every place is different and I don't want to pre-judge this company but generally speaking this is a common trend.

I honestly think you could do a lot of the same treatments yourself for far less or visit a quality detailer. A good professional detailer may be able to offer a quality cleaning and protection. Typically I recommend three products to help "do it yourselfers" protect their new vehicles or really any vehicle. I recommend a good sealant (Menzerna FMJ), 303 Fabric Guard and the 303 Aerospace Protectant.

The Menzerna FMJ or other good sealant will protect your paint for 3 - 6 months, shine the paint, etc. I recommend applying this three times per year and you should be well protected year round.

The 303 Aerospace Protectant will help protect basically any rubber, coated leather, vinyl or plastic surface on your vehicle. This would be the majority of your interior, engine bay and some exterior trim. I use it my console, doors, arm rests, seats, trim, engine casings, rubber tires, rubber door seals, etc. I find this protection to last anywhere from several weeks to several months.

For carpets and fabric mats you can protect them with the 303 Fabric Guard. Basically just spray it on and you'll help preserve your fabrics so they look clean for longer.

Let me know if you have any questions about this information or anything else related to detailing I would be happy to help. Good luck and please keep us posted on what you decide.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Air Marshall Eldritch

Fully agree. My old friends in the business call this product the "mop and glow", which comes with terrific profit margin for them, and potential problems for you down the road where water drain holes are plugged up by this application.

Brian_74

Greg,
I have some Klasse AIO and High Gloss Sealant Glaze that I've had for a little over a year. It's been stored in my house. How long is this stuff good for? Is there a shelf life? I don't want to use an "expired" product on my new ML and would lean towards trying some of the Mezerna FMJ or FAJ because it sounds so much easier to apply and remove.

What pad for my PC 7424 would you recommend for applying/removing Klasse AIO or SG? I have very minimal swirl marks at this point.

Thanks, this thread is a great idea!

Greg@DI

Typically the products are good for 3+ years assuming they were not exposed to any very high or low temperatures that caused separation. There is no real exact science to knowing when the products time may be up. I typically try to compare the difficulty of application/removal, consistency and the smell. If any of those things appear off it may have expired.

The AIO is pretty easy to apply and remove in my experiences but the HGAS is certainly one of the more fickle products out there. It works great, protects super long and looks outstanding but sometimes it can take some extra effort to fully remove. I apply the Klasse AIO with a white polishing pad and apply the HGSG with a blue fine finishing pad.

The Klasse AIO is a chemical cleaner and sealant. This means it will help clean the surface and protect the paint in one step. While by virtue of the friction during application it may remove some ultra fine imperfections, this product is not designed to remove swirls at all. It may fill them in slightly and reduce their appearance but this is all temporary. The HGSG will not remove any imperfections either.

If you want to remove imperfections I would atleast start with a light polish and consider using a medium and light polish combination. A light polish will remove some ultra light imperfections. Typically the Menzerna Final Polish II or the Menzerna PO106FF are my first recommendation. I apply either of these polishes with the white polishing pad. In my experiences most people get more noticeable results from using a two step combination. When I polish I typically start with a medium polish like the Menzerna Intensive Polish or Menzerna Super Intensive Polish. These polishes are applied with an orange cutting pad and can help you remove a lot more imperfections, smooth the surface better and give you a deeper shine. If you use a medium polish you should follow it up with the lighter polish listed above. These steps may seem like extra work but true polishes typically improve your results the most compared to a wax or sealant in my opinion. Best of all you really only need to polish 1 - 2 times per year. This will remove imperfections and smooth out the clear coat so it's more optically clear and giving off a deeper reflection. Having the clear coat clean and smooth will also help the sealant or wax better adhere to the surface.

The Menzerna FMJ is far easier to apply and remove in my experiences. It's acutally probably one of the easiest products to apply and remove. This is my preferred sealant because it's the most well balanced sealants on the market. I apply this with the blue fine finishing pad.

I had remove all of these products with our All Purpose Microfiber Towel or the Ultra Plush Microfiber Towel. Let me know if you'd like more information about any of these products, how to use them, etc. I hope this helps!

Greg @ Detailed Image

Krytech

Thanks Greg. I think I'll be passing on the paint protection. Which brings be to another question. I'm getting a PPF (ClearBra or Venture) installed right away and am wondering if I should get the car detailed and sealed (FMJ) first and should anything be done differently to the front areas that are going to get the film?

Thanks as always!

Greg@DI

Glad the information was helpful. You can clay bar and polish the area where the clear bra material will be placed first. The clay bar will help clean the surface so little to no contaminants are on the surface. Polishing will help smooth out the surface, remove oxidation and remove imperfections beneath it. I would not suggest applying the FMJ over the area where the clear bra is being placed. The clear bra should adhere to the paint, not the sealant. After the clear bra is installed you can apply the FMJ (or other sealant) over it for added protection. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Krytech

So you suggest clay bar and polishing on a new car? Would this be standard practice before installing or should I expect to pay extra for proper preparation?

I understand this is something I'll want to ask the installer I decide to use, but I like to know the correct answers before I ask them to help me gauge their truthfulness.