As a new sponsor of MB World we would like to open up a thread where you can ask us about anything relating to detailing. There is a lot of good and bad information out there about how to detail properly, so we want to provide you a place to get clarification on your detailing questions. While we don’t know everything, we do have a lot of experience with a wide variety of products that can provide you with meaningful insight. We specialize in helping people clean, shine and protect their vehicle’s interior, exterior and engine bay. We have hand-selected each product on our site that will help give you top quality detailing results.

Below we have posted some before and after pictures of work Detailed Image has done with the service side of our business. These results can be achieved by anyone who is willing to learn about detailing properly with the right combination of products. We can help you pick out a detailing package that best fits your vehicle’s particular needs.

Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. We’ll do our best to provide you a detailed and timely response.

Before - Notice the house in the background through the haze?


After:


Side by Side Comparison:


Thank you and we look forward to starting up some great dialogue!

George and Greg
Owners - Detailed Image

 

Welcome George and Greg.

I do have a question..actually two questions:

1. Do you do detailing jobs at the customer site (e.g. my house)?

2. What is your opinion on Zaino, and if favorable, what might you charge to do a full multi-step Zaino finish?

 

Sorry we work primarily at our place but we've done some on site calls for some high end customers. We're located in Albany, NY if you are in the area.

We do not use the Zaino line during our detail work. Overall Zaino is a good line of products but I do think there are other product combinations out there comparable if not better. It depends on what exactly you're looking to get out of the detail. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

Alright, since I am nowhere near Albany, perhaps you would answer the question of what off-the-shelf product you would recommend? Obviously the goal would be to achieve the results you show in the pictures.

 

PM Sent

 

Yes, but PM had some generic boilerplate info, which is not what I asked at all.

 

I apologize if I did not understand your question. I was just looking to gather some more information from you in the PM so I can fully recommend the package I felt would best fit for your needs and vehicle. The following is the process and products that were using in those picutures along with a brief explanation behind why.

Washing and drying is often a very over looked steps in detailing when in reality it is one of the most important. During the washing and drying phase is when many of the scratches and swirls are created in your paint. This means you will want a shampoo, a quality wash mitt and an absorbant paint safe waffle weave drying towel.

Poorboy's Wash Kit:
Poorboy's Super Slick and Suds Shampoo
Sheepskin Wash Mitt
Waffle Weave Drying Towel

To realistically obtain the results in the picture you would need some sort of buffer. In that case, I am going to recommend a Porter Cable 7424. We have put together an advanced kit which gives you everything you would need to apply all of the steps in the detailing process:

Advanced Porter Cable Kit:
Porter Cable 7424
6" Velcro Backing Plate
1x Orange Lake Country Cutting Pad
2x White Lake Country Polishing Pad
1x Black Lake Country Finishing Pad
3x Snappy Clean Pad Cleaners

Paint prep is the foundation to any detail. Sealing and waxing over imperfections will just hide them temporarily not remove them. Buffing the clear coat down to a smooth, clear finish is what will give you the stunning results you see in pictures. The next kit I am going to recommend will include a clay bar to further remove contamination that washing and drying cannot remove, a cutting polish to remove surface imperfections, scratches and swirls, a finishing polish to remove any haze left behind from the cutting polish and to being to restore gloss and depth and a glaze to help hide and fill in any imperfections that were not able to be buffed out.

Menzerna Paint Prep Kit:
ClearKote Clay Bar + Clay Lube
Menzerna Intensive Polish
Menzerna Final Polish II
Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze

Next, you will want to begin to seal and protect the paint. To get the maximum results and longest duration out of your glaze you will want to seal it in with a quality sealant. There are many options but my favorite is Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket. This will bond to the paints surface giving you a layer of durable protection, increase the shine and reflection of the paint and increase surface slickness. To further enhance the depth and gloss of your paint you will want to layer a wax over your sealant. My personal favorite is Pinnacle Souveran. This will add another layer of protection and give the paint a warmer "wet" look. This step is perfect right before a show or a special event.

Paint Protection Kit:
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
Pinnacle Souveran

This takes care of the paint. Now this is what I would consider to be one of our premier detailing packages that we have to offer. There are plenty of other options availble that we can fully customize based on the customers needs and wants. Some of the questions we typically need to know are: The condition of the paint, if you plan on working with a buffer or by hand, color of the paint, products you already have and want to continue to use, time commitment and budget you plan on working with. Without knowing the answers to these questions we cannot give a proper recommendation, every vehicle is unique and we treat every customer that way as well.

If anyone would like to read more about the detailing process, please view our thorough How-To section which covers all of the steps of a complete detail, which includes: Washing & Drying, Clay Bar, Cutting Polish, Finishing Polish, Glaze, Sealant, and Waxing.

I only touched the surface about detailing with this post and I would be happy to go more in depth or answer any other questions anyone may have regarding the car of exterior paint, interior care, engine detailing, wheel care or convertible top care.

Also, please do not forget about our 10% off coupon code 10offMBW.

I did not intend to get this post started off on the wrong foot.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

 

George, thanks for putting up the informative post on products and techniques; IMO very well done.

One question about tools...you, like many other pros use the PC 7424 for buffing/polishing etc. Is this tool really that much more superior than an off the shelf random orbital machine, WaxMaster, etc. And if so, why?

Bob

 

While each buffer is different I’ll point out some common flaws of the orbit buffers typically seen in stores. The differences between the Porter Cable 7424 and some of the “generic orbital buffers” are somewhat subtle but noticeable if you really want the best results. I’ll highlight some of the main differences and why they are important. The most important difference to me is the material that actually touches your clear coat. The PC 7424 uses clear coat safe foam pads that are designed to complete each step of the detailing process with maximum results. If you want to remove swirls we have a more aggressive pad or if you want to apply a wax there is a nice soft pad, etc. These pads are particularly important for polishing to attain maximum results. Generic buffers typically use terry cloth bonnets that have several downsides. Terry Cloth can be too harsh for the clear coat and leave micro fine scratches in it. While doing the detail you often don’t notice these marks because the wax is covering them right away. However after detailing for years I’ve come to notice that terry cloths can really harm the finish, especially as the bonnet becomes contaminated. Terry cloth is also very thin which can’t absorb contaminates that separate from clear coat during buffing. These contaminates can grind into the clear coat, where as foam pads can absorb contaminates into its 1inch thick pad. The generic buffers usually have a less smooth orbital motion and less OPMs (PC 7424: 6000 Orbits Per Minute), which is essential for effective polishing. The Porter Cable is only 6lbs and very easy to maneuver around corners because you can operate it with one hand. Many traditional orbital buffers require you to have two hands on it, which makes it very difficult to buff very low panels and the center of the roof and hood. We recommend the PC 7424 that comes with a velcro backing plate because it helps you angle the buffer and reach areas that other buffers can’t effectively buff. My favorite part about the Porter Cable is its reliability because I really feel like you pay for what you get. This is a super durable machine that you will be detailing with for years to come. This tool has revolutionized the capabilities of weekend detailers to get professional like results with relative ease. In summary the Porter Cable 7424 will save you lots of time and energy while significantly improving your detailing results.

Again these are typical differences that I feel really make the PC 7424 a very good investment. Hope this helps and if you have other questions please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

From one pro to another, great work, and more so, great information. I'm sure all the others looking appreciate the time you took to lay out that information. Best of luck to you and your business in the future.

 

Great information!! Thank you for taking the time to write this.

I'm interested in getting the whole advance package and wondering if you can give more than the 10% discount

This will be use for the really good paint job with some swirl mark for the E55. The Z06 and the Camaro SS has good paint, but extremely excessive swirl marks. All the paint has been taken good care of. I had used Zaino for many years and added many layers upon layers of them. That's one aspect I like. However, I am ready to try something else.

 

Greg, or should I say 'Dr. Detail',
Thanks so much for the informative writeup on the differences in tools used for detailing. Porter Cable it is and I'll retire my RO machine!

Bob

 

Thank you everyone for the positive feedback I try hard to give out information that I have picked up over the years. I'm glad your finding the info useful and helpful.

tigerlam92 - I'll send you a PM with a package that I think would best fit your needs. If anyone else wants a package I'd be happy to help them develop one as well.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

The most important difference is the material that actually touches your clear coat. Agreed

The PC 7424*uses clear coat safe foam pads* that are designed to complete each step of the detailing process with maximum results. [Foam pads sold for use with the PC 7424 are clear coat safe]

I tend to clarify this point as the pad sold with the PC is not clear coat safe

I applaud your efforts on this write-up, however as a semi-professional writer on car care products I do tend to err on the side of (****)accuracy

 

Yes I do agree, somewhat ironically the pad that actually comes with the PC is not great. Just about every PC we sell gets the Lake Country Pads. Almost all of our customers get the Advanced Buffer Kit or the Starter Kit which come with a velcro backing plate and Lake Country Pads and not the original pad from Porter Cable.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

what is the best way to get micro fine scratches out of chrome wheels?? Thanks!

I have tried wenol and it really didnt help...

 

It depends on what the surface of your wheel is but generally there are no quick fixes. The wenol is a metal polish thats non abrasive so its not likely to remove a scratch thats penetrated the surface. While wenol and p21s finish restorer are great polishes they generally can only remove contamination. You can try polishing with an abrasive formula but this can be risky if you haven't done it. I most commonly recommend getting your wheel refinished to remove scratches. Sorry I don't have any easy fixes maybe someone else on the board has more experience with this.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

Hi, I have a Black E320 that looks like the Before side of that red car you have up there. What Can I do to make it like the after side with as little money as possible, or money is no object if I can make it back doing it to other people's cars.

 

There are various solutions that will give you varying results. I'll try to outline some different solutions that will fit in different budgets.

If you want a simple one-step fix you can just use the Klasse All In One (AIO). This is a chemical polish with a sealant in it. This will help remove oxidation in the clear coat and protect the paint for 4 - 6 months. This will not remove the big sweeping swirls though.

Klasse AIO - $27.99

The Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 are another option that you can do by hand. These steps will help remove the oxidation and the swirl marks. However polishing by hand is extremely difficult. Cutting polishes that remove swirls are difficult to apply by hand because they need a lot of friction and pressure throughout two coats to work optimally.

Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 $24.99

Your best bet to really remove these swirls and the oxidation is the using the Porter Cable 7424 buffer with the Menzerna Intensive Polish followed by the Menzerna Final Polish II. . The Porter Cable is a great way to really restore the paint's surface and maintain it. It's an extremely durable machine that should help you with your detailing needs for years to come. The best part is that it's safe to use on your paint and will not burn your paint like rotary buffers will. The Porter Cable will save you time and energy while improving your detailing results. To remove swirls you want to apply a medium cutting polish like the Menzerna Intensive Polish. This will help eliminate the swirls permanently, not just hide them. I highly recommend applying this with the Porter Cable because it gives much more even coverage of product and heat. This ultimately means that the product will break down better and work in to the clear coat’s surface more efficiently. When you do these applications by hand it's difficult to give your paint constant pressure all the way around and throughout the entire detail (especially with multiple coats). After applying any medium cutting polish you should always follow up with a lighter polish to buff out any haze that may be left behind and restore surface gloss. I recommend using the Menzerna Final Polish II. After applying this product the surface should be very clean and clear.

Porter Cable 7424 that comes with a white pad that I would use for the Final Polish II
1X Orange Pad $9.99 - for the Intensive Polish
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Menzerna Final Polish II $30.99

Truly I think you need the PC 7424 for significant results but you can try the other alternatives I mentioned as cheaper solutions. The PC 7424 makes detailing go so much faster and improves results. I'd say you could easily make your money back spent on products in 1 - 2 details. Many people do this or split the cost of a PC 7424 with a friend who also details. Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help you.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

are u using somthing special for the new nano paint, or using the normal stuff
won't really make a diff. ( zaino,meguaires)

I have 9 month old CLS that I would like to take out the swirs from, after clay job i did.

 

I tried to fix a scratch on one of my door panels using a orbital buffer. I tried to follow your instructions, but I burned through a small patch of clear-coat by mistake and the scratch is better but still there. I put polish on it to protect.

I would like to know if there is anything I can do to fix the clear-coat or do I need my body shop to do it and the scratch at the same time?

 

MJ - You can still use all the same polishes, you might notice better/worse with different combinations though. I typically use the Menzerna line of polishes but there are several good product lines of polishes available.

scott w - Clear coat issues typically have to be fixed by a paint place. You can do it yourself, just depends on your preference. There are no quick detaling fixes that I know of.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

Quick thanks to all the info /advice from both nickc0844 and the ever polite Greg@DI -- When I get all the tools for my detailing job, I believe I will have great results from just reading these threads! Also, I never thought of all the detail, involvement, and great products there are out there to produce these great results. And to think I was the detail king with my meg. clear coat prep and zymol carnuba !!!!!!

But before I venture in vesting in ,what my wife thinks, a lot of money for just "detailing" my car,( what ever, don't get me started on her $200 maternity jeans!!???) what are some opinions on these two final sealants - the Klasse hi gloss, and the menzerna FMJ??? Both highly recommended with the FMJ a good bit more $$. I believe I am going to go with Menzerna Int. polish, polish II, and glaze and I know most suggest keeping with all the same manufacture, just thought I could get some "profesional" opinions between the two sealants!!

In the meanwhile, I am going to imagine practicing my future PC 7336SP on my wife's maternity jeans, with a sander attachment!!!!!

 

Your welcome for the help thats what me and Detailed Image are here for. We try to provide unbiased information so you get the most from each detail. Here is a quick break down on the differences between the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (HGSG) and the Menzerna Full Molecualer Jacket (FMJ). The HGSG offers longer lasting protection with great depth and gloss. Some people argue that it gives the best hard candy look of all sealants. However the major downside of the HGSG is that it should be left on the clear coat for 12 - 24hrs ideally before being removed and it can be a little tough to remove. Some people will apply it at night and remove in the morning so they don't have to be without a vehicle. You can apply it and remove it right away but its not as effective. The FMJ is much easier to remove and also leaves a great shine. Both products stretch far so you only need abot 1oz per coat so they are good values on a per use basis IMO. Overall both are great and you really can't go wrong either way. In summary I recommend the FMJ because of how easy it is to use and the consistently exceptional results.

Hope this helps and maybe others who use these products can comment. Good luck with the detail!

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

Greg, thanks for the great write ups and the time you have taken. I am the proud owner of a new MB CL500 with the standard black paint. I have been working hard to keep it clean and protected, but the more I read, the more I am doing wrong or not the real right way. I would like to start over with the car and really do this right. The car like I said is new and I have polished and waxed it from the beginning, but I do notice the small scratches and swirls and I am never really satisfied with my efforts. What do you have for a complete kit and procedure to get me on the right track. Thanks for your time.
Sam