dvmak

I ran across this web site and first instinct is that this is just another example of an industry trying to drum up business ... but hard to believe that a University would play along ...

Or is there some truth in this???

http://www.villagecarwash.net/pdf/TexasCarWashStudy.pdf

Figuero

Bogus statistics - sponsored by the Professional car wash industry. From my reading absolutly now scientific method was employeed. No control, no best practice, just a bunch of "observations" of horrible washing techniques.

Start off in the noon day sun....paint temperature about 175deg. Load up the "water weasel" with Dawn and blast it with cold water and a twirling bristle brush. Clean up the tires, wheels and wheel wells with an old sponge and follow up by wiping down the lower quarter panels with the same sponge, rocks, sand, brake dust, tar and all.
Then dry the car with a burlap sack, or let it sit to air dry and use 800grit to remove the water spots.

Yes hand washing can be very harmful to your car's finish. That's why all the worlds best detailers finish off their work with run through Jiffy Wash.

Timeless

Anyone serious about washing a car would truly never do this. Just gotta make sure your wash mitts/pads/etc are clean after their use.

johnand

With proper tools, soaps and techniques, you can hand wash your car with very little to no surface marring. In fact, most wash induced marring occurs when drying the car, not washing it. If you can afford a good Deionized water filter, you can do a final rinse of your car and let is air dry spot free, and eliminate the chance of marring the finish from drying. If you can't afford the filter system, drying with high quality microfiber towels and blotting dry is the next best thing.

Timeless

I like the leaf blower method myself. Never have to touch the car.

johnand

That works too I used to use my air compressor until I got a CR Spotless filter.

sick430

any good? where did you get it?

thanks

johnand

Yes, it is very good IMO. I don't have really hard water here in the NW 20-50ppm TDS, but it still makes washing much easier.

I got it from Costco when it was going for $199.00 in the store. Costco online still has it for $369.00.

If you have really hard water the replacement resin will get to be very expensive, so take that cost into account when thinking about purchasing one.

TOGWT

For more information see articles on DetailingWiki-Washing & Drying Vehicle Paint and Water Filtration

Stiggs

ShamWow?

OCKlasse

Garbage. Waffle weave microfibers are key. That and the leaf blower.

TOGWT

Commercialism brings with it concerns of honesty and true representation. In other words, it’s difficult to know what is true when someone is motivated by income, i.e. directly targeted at product sales, more so than an unbiased opinion.

C300Sport

I have to say I got a really good laugh from that one! It reads like an infomercial.
If you do it right, a careful auto owner can always put more time and care into a wash job. I washed my last black Mazda for over eight years and the paint looked as new...and I never had to polish or buff it.

CynCarvin32

Does that costco de-ionozed water system really work? I keep toying with the idea of getting one. I use the leaf blower and then a spray wax to lubricate the paint as I dry the remaining water off but you still get scratches.

I had my SL55 in for service and I put sings in the car saying do not wash but the bloody **** went and washed it anyhow. I never knew one wash could be so damaging. I started the repair last night but it really needs a 2-3 step polishing to get back to like new. I will be working for a couple days to get that perfect black car finish again. But there are marks in it now I dont want to take out. They are just too deep.

One wash can do in your car. Be careful with keeping your mitts towels and everything else clean. We all know the "wash bay" at your dealership has no interest in keeping anything clean.

Ron Jr

I tried the leaf blower and it didn't really do much, must be to weak. I use a california drying blade then a microfiber cloth. A friend gave me a set of ShamWows for christmas so I could use them on my car. Little does she know I use them on my dog.

wawy

What I'll usually after I wash mine is use the Mr Clean Auto-Dry Car Wash attachment. It usually works quite well (just make sure the filters are good) and I don't have to touch my car with towels. The only time I'll dry it with towels (cotton) is before I polish/wax it....

DHawk615

Be very careful with those California drying blades. They get small dirt particles stuck in the silicone VERY easily, and tend to put more micro-scratches in the paint than simply using a chamois. I wouldn't recommend them, especially on black cars.

mikeinsf

I've avoided buying one of these for this exact reason. The only way to get a squeegee to do anything is to apply pressure, which is exactly what you don't want, in case of remaining contaminants. Seems like if you're going to hand dry, then a lofty microfiber cloth with light pressure is the best bet.

jimrgraham

Guys,
I manufacture car wash equipment for both the professional "hand" car washes and "friction" car washes - In other words, I'm not biased to either!

My personal experience of washing over one million cars at my own car wash is that there is no question that professional hand washing is guaranteed to finely scratch ALL cars no matter if it is a Ford Escort or a Maybach.

If you are from the SoCal area, just look at darker vehicles and you'll begin to notice a common theme - fine scratches every where.

SoCal is by far the Hand Car Wash capital of the world. It kills me to see $110k plus rides being (pampered) cared for by a couple of guys who could give a s#$* less about your pride and joy.

If you are in the Mid West, you'll find very few vehicles with these fine scratches because most of the washes are "Friction" or "Touch Free" automatics.

I have an '07 E63 that has so far been washed at least 600 times with friction (sometimes 40 or 50 times a day when starting up a new car wash). It's never been detailed and looks cleaner, brighter, and shinier today than it did the day I bought it.

If you are looking for a professional car wash to take care of your car, look for well known, high quality chemicals like Blue Coral or Simoniz and observe the tunnel equipment. If the place is run down and dirty - RUN. If it's nice and clean (well kept) try it out and see what you think.

BlackLiquorish8

i dont have a leaf blower so i cant say

but my fav has been the absorber it holds up, doesnt leave lint and doesnt scratch the car.

i've used this on my cars in the past also