I have a Dark Blue 1996 S320 that is very straight but due to Arizona sun & heat is getting major Oxidation on every top surface. I have clayed it a couple of times and at first that seemed to help but it doesn't get rid of it and anymore it helps less and comes back worse and quickly. What else can I do? I have had people tell me it needs to be re clear coated. My guess is hat is quite expencive but I love the car and its looks so it would (depending on how much) be worth it. Or do I do like so many seem to do and just let it keep getting worse until it looks all faided. Any ideas or help would be great.

 

At this point you would likely have to get the car polished by a good detailer to restore the finish. Shop around and get referrals. Visit http://www.autopia.org/find-professional-detailer/

...and look around.] I would at the very least have a pro look at it and then decide if you want to go the DIY route.

 

Oxidation

Chalk like appearance on the paint surface - it starts as a chemical reaction that causes the resin binder system to overheat and dry out or it can also be caused by excessive (friction) heat generated during the machine polishing process (See also Compound Polishing Surface Temperature) leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro fissures in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration. Once the air borne contaminates and pollution compromises the paint surface they accelerate the oxidation (reduction) or paint failure process.

a) Two stage paint system- (base, colour and isocyanate clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out, this is not oxidation, its clear coat failure.. The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out (oxidize) the paint, causing it to fail.

Correction- Two stage paint system- usually a repaint is required to replace the clear coat

b) Single stage paint system – oxidation can usually be removed by using detailers clay to remove any surface contaminants, and/or a solvent type chemical cleaner/polish (Zaino ZPC Fusion or Klasse All-In-One) and then a suitable abrasive polish (dependent upon how severe the problem) to remove the oxidized paint (Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish) with a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow, PC speed #4, or 1100RPM Rotary) and then apply a sealant and / or wax protection

For oxidized paint try the following (this is only a temp 'fix') [EDITED]

• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly
• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) using an Lake County (LC) orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 applications
• If a chemical paint cleaner doesn’t remove the oxidation use a (LC) purple foamed wool (PFW) pad and Menzerna’s Power Gloss (POS 34A) clean or replace with a clean pad as the oxidized paint will load the pad
• A foam pad will transfer kinetic (friction) heat to the paint and may exasperate the problem
• Using Gloss It EVP Pad Prime will help maintain sufficient oil lubrication for the polish
• Wet-sanding will remove oxidation but may remove too much clear coat
• Once the oxidation has been removed use a decontamination system (Aquartz Iron Cut)
• Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
• Remove residue and apply a synthetic wax that contains both Carnauba wax (oils) and a polymer sealant (1z Einszett Glanz Wax Hart Glanz) and then a polymer (for heat protection) paint sealant.
• Try to keep vehicle paint surface away from UV heat radiation
• Keep paint surface waxed on a regular basis.

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TOGWT, your last comment,
Keep paint surface waxed on a regular basis.

Given the ultra hot climates the original poster and I live in, AZ and FL, would a quality sealant be better than wax that seems to evaporate in a very short time?

TIA.

Bob

 

TOGWT
That is an awesome write up. I'll have to find some of those products. The different types of pads etc. I'm guessing a big auto pain place would have them. Even in the shade or garage this time of year the paint surface is 100+ should I wait until fall.

 

This is only a temp 'fix' and the oils in a wax help the dried out resin (paint binder) system

 

Use a synthetic wax (1Z Einszett Glanz Wax Hart Glanz) that contains both Carnauba wax (oils) and then a polymer for heat radiation protection .

 

Togwt,

I recently purchased a CLK430, it has some small spots that need to be touched up. I have a manufactures touch up paint for the car.

I know I have to wash before applying the paint. How long after putting on the silver paint should I wait before applying the clear sealant?

Thank you,

PS I like your blog.