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Leather creasing, sitting lines, spidering???

Old Aug 14, 2010 | 05:04 PM
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Question Leather creasing, sitting lines, spidering???

I'm a perfectionist. The leather seats of the car I'm buying have what I guess would be called "normal sitting lines" by owners but to me I don't want them there. They're "not that bad" but, they're there and I want the leather to look brand new 24/7/365 for the next 10 years. Okay, I'm exaggerating a little bit.

What is the culprit? I'm considering buying at a hefty price brand new leather just so I can get rid of the problem. I've been told you can't remove the crinkles in the seat from sitting (it's an SL500) so I know I personally won't be happy with the seats as is. However, once I get the new seat leather (if that's the way it needs to go) - then what???? Is it clearcoated? How do I prevent it from happening again?
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 06:56 AM
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Leather Upholstery and Trim Surface Identification - http://togwt1980.blogspot.com/
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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That's like a child asking how to make a paper airplane and you give him an encyclopedia.
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by supo
I'm a perfectionist. The leather seats of the car I'm buying have what I guess would be called "normal sitting lines" by owners but to me I don't want them there. They're "not that bad" but, they're there and I want the leather to look brand new 24/7/365 for the next 10 years. Okay, I'm exaggerating a little bit.

What is the culprit? I'm considering buying at a hefty price brand new leather just so I can get rid of the problem. I've been told you can't remove the crinkles in the seat from sitting (it's an SL500) so I know I personally won't be happy with the seats as is. However, once I get the new seat leather (if that's the way it needs to go) - then what???? Is it clearcoated? How do I prevent it from happening again?
Depending on how much you weigh, these "sitting lines" as you call them will appear sooner or later. Your best bet to keep them from happening as long as possible is to regularly condition the leather with Lexol conditioner or similar.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by supo
That's like a child asking how to make a paper airplane and you give him an encyclopedia.
If you don't know what the material is how can you know what cleaner is suitable? If putting a drop of water on a surface is too complicated, then I probably can’t help you

Last edited by TOGWT; Aug 16, 2010 at 05:45 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 01:11 AM
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You missed the point. You said nothing about a drop of water you just gave me a link that has 10000000000 bits of information. I'm not trying to do a disseration on it, just need some simple answers.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 04:17 AM
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Actually it's fairly straightforward to read. It allows you to identify the kind of leather you have. And that's probably the most important to know so you can pick an appropriate product. A couple of water drops, and fingernail scratch, and a description, etc., and you're set to go.

But what it doesn't do is tell how to treat the leather once you identify it and which product to look for..... that you'll have to find out on your own.

fwiw, I use products that specifically are okay for modern Nappa leather (which I have, along with some alcantara fabric pieces on the shoulder bolsters) and the leather's in pretty decent shape. A few minor creases don't bother me and I think that's expected, after all it's an 'organic' product. Even very expensive leather clothing creases, wears, and develops a patina over time. It's when the creases crack (lack of moisture) that creates issues. Also the oils and salt from your body breaks down the leather and finish and causes cracks. You might consider Leather Master protector to add a 'barrier.' Good product, imho (and water based.)

edit: fwiw, here's some more info. And they say pretty much what TOGWOT is telling you. Check out the 8th paragraph: http://www.leathercaredirect.com/faq.php
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:51 AM
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I have 2006 SL500 base model. That's the kind of leather I have.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by supo
I have 2006 SL500 base model. That's the kind of leather I have.
How's that saying go? You can give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day. But teach him how to fish and he'll eat forever.

Follow TOGWT's easy how-to info and you'll be living large.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by supo
I have 2006 SL500 base model. That's the kind of leather I have.

Your car has coated leather. As for the wrinkles try to not sit on the seat!!! In time you are going to get the wrinkles no matter what you do.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by supo
I'm a perfectionist. The leather seats of the car I'm buying have what I guess would be called "normal sitting lines" by owners but to me I don't want them there. They're "not that bad" but, they're there and I want the leather to look brand new 24/7/365 for the next 10 years. Okay, I'm exaggerating a little bit.

What is the culprit? I'm considering buying at a hefty price brand new leather just so I can get rid of the problem. I've been told you can't remove the crinkles in the seat from sitting (it's an SL500) so I know I personally won't be happy with the seats as is. However, once I get the new seat leather (if that's the way it needs to go) - then what???? Is it clearcoated? How do I prevent it from happening again?
The leather used in S class and SL's is designed to crease, it is an intended feature especially when they has the optional nappa leather. There is bullitens from MB advising dealers to stop replacing leather due to creases because it is an intented effect and NOT a defect. Rips, tears and damage, that a completely differnt story, it's usually poor care from the previous owner. One dealer I worked at had a large number of torn leather on bolsters.......amazing how may 30 something wives wear studded belts then wonder why the leather is torn!
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