How to prevent swirl marks on brand new black MB?
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GLK350
How to prevent swirl marks on brand new black MB?
Hello everyone,
Our special ordered GLK350 finally arrived from Germany this week. Took about 5 months to get here but it was worth the wait!
Exterior is black (non-metallic) and looks absolutely fantastic in its current and fresh-from-the-factory luster. I did not want black as I know it's tough to keep clean and nice but decided we could give it a try this time (since the wife insisted of course)!
That said, at the point of purchase we got the usual salesmanship of windshield protection this (did not take it), wheel and tire protection that (took it because it's got 20" wheels and low profile tires) as well as XZILON coating (or whatever it is). And we diid opt for the XZILON because it was $500 for interior and exterior coverage and the 5-year warranty.
However, after researching the heck out of XZILON the last few days (here on the forum and throughout the web) I still can't decide whether or not to actually let them put it on the car (we have to take it back when/if ready....for now the car is sitting in the garage and not being driven until we decide). I also can't tell what it actually is (polish, wax, coating, ????) or if it will help prevent or at least minimize swirl (and otherwise light) marks in the clearcoat. I'm sure most here will say to pass on the XZ at that price, but the concern is not the cost but rather if its one of the better ways to protect the paint finish (even if it does need re-applied a few times before the 5 year warranty period is up). And if so we are up for it. Any thoughts?
And if we don't have the XZ applied, what are the best ways to prevent swirl marks altogether? Should we have the car detailed/waxed right away to protect it further than the current factory finish?
Then from there (or elsewhere as you guys recommend) do we ONLY very carefully wash by hand or use touchless car washes to prevent swirls and other scratches?
Thank you to everyone for their help in advance!
Jason
Our special ordered GLK350 finally arrived from Germany this week. Took about 5 months to get here but it was worth the wait!
Exterior is black (non-metallic) and looks absolutely fantastic in its current and fresh-from-the-factory luster. I did not want black as I know it's tough to keep clean and nice but decided we could give it a try this time (since the wife insisted of course)!
That said, at the point of purchase we got the usual salesmanship of windshield protection this (did not take it), wheel and tire protection that (took it because it's got 20" wheels and low profile tires) as well as XZILON coating (or whatever it is). And we diid opt for the XZILON because it was $500 for interior and exterior coverage and the 5-year warranty.
However, after researching the heck out of XZILON the last few days (here on the forum and throughout the web) I still can't decide whether or not to actually let them put it on the car (we have to take it back when/if ready....for now the car is sitting in the garage and not being driven until we decide). I also can't tell what it actually is (polish, wax, coating, ????) or if it will help prevent or at least minimize swirl (and otherwise light) marks in the clearcoat. I'm sure most here will say to pass on the XZ at that price, but the concern is not the cost but rather if its one of the better ways to protect the paint finish (even if it does need re-applied a few times before the 5 year warranty period is up). And if so we are up for it. Any thoughts?
And if we don't have the XZ applied, what are the best ways to prevent swirl marks altogether? Should we have the car detailed/waxed right away to protect it further than the current factory finish?
Then from there (or elsewhere as you guys recommend) do we ONLY very carefully wash by hand or use touchless car washes to prevent swirls and other scratches?
Thank you to everyone for their help in advance!
Jason
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'84 380 SL/ '02 XK8
Save our money on the XZILON coating, its no more than an overpriced polymer sealant that can be purchased for $30 and applied yourself very easily
Common causes of scratches
• Improper methodology / tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching / marring) and accounts for as much as 75% + of surface marring
• A large proportion of all paintwork scratches are caused by automated car washes. Minute particles of hard materials, such as road dust and sand, become lodged in the rotating brushes and etch scratches into the paint surface. These “hair-line” scratches are particularly noticeable in darker paint shades.
• Using an unsuitable applicator or brush to clean the vehicle or remove snow etc
• Using cheap micro fibre or terry cloth towels or some wash sponges will scratch the paint as these materials are hard and unforgiving, inflicting scratches without the need for grit particles
• Placing or dragging an object across the boot lid
• Jewellery (rings, bracelets, etc) coming into contact with paint (i.e. rings abrading door handle recess)
• Using too much pressure with a car duster on a dusty / dirty surface
• Pulling a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or dirt /grit on the inside of the cover
• Wiping a dry surface with a dry cloth
• Infrequent rinsing of brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibres) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Using a towel or cloth that is unsuitable for paint film surfaces
• Not thoroughly rinsing road grime before drying
• Using a car wash concentrate that doesn’t suspend grit / dirt before it gets rinsed away
• Improper use of a water-blade (i.e. not rinsing blade surface after each pass)
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands to maintain a ‘pristine’ look
• Using an unnecessarily abrasive automotive detailer’s clay and / or insufficient lubrication
Grit Guard® Insert Dual Bucket Washing System
Ironically, washing your vehicle can actually damage the paint finish because grit in the wash brush or mitt can leave scratches in the paint film surface, but with a Grit Guard ® in place at the bottom of the rinse bucket, you simply rub the wash media across the grid type surface to remove any damaging grit.
The professional way to wash any vehicle and avoid surface scratches is by using one bucket to wash and the other to rinse the wash media, doubling your protection against washing induced paint surface swirl marks and scratches.
Essentially the two bucket washing process provides one bucket that holds sufficient carwash concentrate, one that is formulated with surfactants that encapsulate and lift any grit particles, storing them in the fibres of the washing media to be rinsed off in the Grit Guard® bucket, thus allowing any debris to be dislodged and float down to the bottom to be safely stored, so it’s no longer in the solution ensuring grit-free washing media.
{Knowledge Management} - Treating experience as a shared asset. If this article was informative and you learned something new, or have any questions feel free to comment. We would love if you shared this article with your friends on Facebook and Twitter or linked to it from your website or blog- Thanks
Also see my Blog for constantly updated detailing info http://TOGWT®1980.blogspot.com/atom.xml
Common causes of scratches
• Improper methodology / tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching / marring) and accounts for as much as 75% + of surface marring
• A large proportion of all paintwork scratches are caused by automated car washes. Minute particles of hard materials, such as road dust and sand, become lodged in the rotating brushes and etch scratches into the paint surface. These “hair-line” scratches are particularly noticeable in darker paint shades.
• Using an unsuitable applicator or brush to clean the vehicle or remove snow etc
• Using cheap micro fibre or terry cloth towels or some wash sponges will scratch the paint as these materials are hard and unforgiving, inflicting scratches without the need for grit particles
• Placing or dragging an object across the boot lid
• Jewellery (rings, bracelets, etc) coming into contact with paint (i.e. rings abrading door handle recess)
• Using too much pressure with a car duster on a dusty / dirty surface
• Pulling a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or dirt /grit on the inside of the cover
• Wiping a dry surface with a dry cloth
• Infrequent rinsing of brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibres) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Using a towel or cloth that is unsuitable for paint film surfaces
• Not thoroughly rinsing road grime before drying
• Using a car wash concentrate that doesn’t suspend grit / dirt before it gets rinsed away
• Improper use of a water-blade (i.e. not rinsing blade surface after each pass)
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands to maintain a ‘pristine’ look
• Using an unnecessarily abrasive automotive detailer’s clay and / or insufficient lubrication
Grit Guard® Insert Dual Bucket Washing System
Ironically, washing your vehicle can actually damage the paint finish because grit in the wash brush or mitt can leave scratches in the paint film surface, but with a Grit Guard ® in place at the bottom of the rinse bucket, you simply rub the wash media across the grid type surface to remove any damaging grit.
The professional way to wash any vehicle and avoid surface scratches is by using one bucket to wash and the other to rinse the wash media, doubling your protection against washing induced paint surface swirl marks and scratches.
Essentially the two bucket washing process provides one bucket that holds sufficient carwash concentrate, one that is formulated with surfactants that encapsulate and lift any grit particles, storing them in the fibres of the washing media to be rinsed off in the Grit Guard® bucket, thus allowing any debris to be dislodged and float down to the bottom to be safely stored, so it’s no longer in the solution ensuring grit-free washing media.
{Knowledge Management} - Treating experience as a shared asset. If this article was informative and you learned something new, or have any questions feel free to comment. We would love if you shared this article with your friends on Facebook and Twitter or linked to it from your website or blog- Thanks
Also see my Blog for constantly updated detailing info http://TOGWT®1980.blogspot.com/atom.xml
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'14 CLA 45
Save our money on the XZILON coating, its no more than an overpriced polymer sealant that can be purchased for $30 and applied yourself very easily
Common causes of scratches
• Improper methodology / tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching / marring) and accounts for as much as 75% + of surface marring
• A large proportion of all paintwork scratches are caused by automated car washes. Minute particles of hard materials, such as road dust and sand, become lodged in the rotating brushes and etch scratches into the paint surface. These “hair-line” scratches are particularly noticeable in darker paint shades.
• Using an unsuitable applicator or brush to clean the vehicle or remove snow etc
• Using cheap micro fibre or terry cloth towels or some wash sponges will scratch the paint as these materials are hard and unforgiving, inflicting scratches without the need for grit particles
• Placing or dragging an object across the boot lid
• Jewellery (rings, bracelets, etc) coming into contact with paint (i.e. rings abrading door handle recess)
• Using too much pressure with a car duster on a dusty / dirty surface
• Pulling a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or dirt /grit on the inside of the cover
• Wiping a dry surface with a dry cloth
• Infrequent rinsing of brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibres) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Using a towel or cloth that is unsuitable for paint film surfaces
• Not thoroughly rinsing road grime before drying
• Using a car wash concentrate that doesn’t suspend grit / dirt before it gets rinsed away
• Improper use of a water-blade (i.e. not rinsing blade surface after each pass)
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands to maintain a ‘pristine’ look
• Using an unnecessarily abrasive automotive detailer’s clay and / or insufficient lubrication
Grit Guard® Insert Dual Bucket Washing System
Ironically, washing your vehicle can actually damage the paint finish because grit in the wash brush or mitt can leave scratches in the paint film surface, but with a Grit Guard ® in place at the bottom of the rinse bucket, you simply rub the wash media across the grid type surface to remove any damaging grit.
The professional way to wash any vehicle and avoid surface scratches is by using one bucket to wash and the other to rinse the wash media, doubling your protection against washing induced paint surface swirl marks and scratches.
Essentially the two bucket washing process provides one bucket that holds sufficient carwash concentrate, one that is formulated with surfactants that encapsulate and lift any grit particles, storing them in the fibres of the washing media to be rinsed off in the Grit Guard® bucket, thus allowing any debris to be dislodged and float down to the bottom to be safely stored, so it’s no longer in the solution ensuring grit-free washing media.
{Knowledge Management} - Treating experience as a shared asset. If this article was informative and you learned something new, or have any questions feel free to comment. We would love if you shared this article with your friends on Facebook and Twitter or linked to it from your website or blog- Thanks
Also see my Blog for constantly updated detailing info http://TOGWT®1980.blogspot.com/atom.xml
Common causes of scratches
• Improper methodology / tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching / marring) and accounts for as much as 75% + of surface marring
• A large proportion of all paintwork scratches are caused by automated car washes. Minute particles of hard materials, such as road dust and sand, become lodged in the rotating brushes and etch scratches into the paint surface. These “hair-line” scratches are particularly noticeable in darker paint shades.
• Using an unsuitable applicator or brush to clean the vehicle or remove snow etc
• Using cheap micro fibre or terry cloth towels or some wash sponges will scratch the paint as these materials are hard and unforgiving, inflicting scratches without the need for grit particles
• Placing or dragging an object across the boot lid
• Jewellery (rings, bracelets, etc) coming into contact with paint (i.e. rings abrading door handle recess)
• Using too much pressure with a car duster on a dusty / dirty surface
• Pulling a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or dirt /grit on the inside of the cover
• Wiping a dry surface with a dry cloth
• Infrequent rinsing of brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibres) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Using a towel or cloth that is unsuitable for paint film surfaces
• Not thoroughly rinsing road grime before drying
• Using a car wash concentrate that doesn’t suspend grit / dirt before it gets rinsed away
• Improper use of a water-blade (i.e. not rinsing blade surface after each pass)
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands to maintain a ‘pristine’ look
• Using an unnecessarily abrasive automotive detailer’s clay and / or insufficient lubrication
Grit Guard® Insert Dual Bucket Washing System
Ironically, washing your vehicle can actually damage the paint finish because grit in the wash brush or mitt can leave scratches in the paint film surface, but with a Grit Guard ® in place at the bottom of the rinse bucket, you simply rub the wash media across the grid type surface to remove any damaging grit.
The professional way to wash any vehicle and avoid surface scratches is by using one bucket to wash and the other to rinse the wash media, doubling your protection against washing induced paint surface swirl marks and scratches.
Essentially the two bucket washing process provides one bucket that holds sufficient carwash concentrate, one that is formulated with surfactants that encapsulate and lift any grit particles, storing them in the fibres of the washing media to be rinsed off in the Grit Guard® bucket, thus allowing any debris to be dislodged and float down to the bottom to be safely stored, so it’s no longer in the solution ensuring grit-free washing media.
{Knowledge Management} - Treating experience as a shared asset. If this article was informative and you learned something new, or have any questions feel free to comment. We would love if you shared this article with your friends on Facebook and Twitter or linked to it from your website or blog- Thanks
Also see my Blog for constantly updated detailing info http://TOGWT®1980.blogspot.com/atom.xml
If you should get anything out of this post, then it is to opt out of the XZilon and wash your car yourself with at least the two bucket method, quality mitt/ sponge, and microfiber towels, and apply sealant/ wax every 3-6 month for increased protection.
After that, you can either approach a professional detailer every two years and pay anywhere from $400 and up, or buy supplies, read up, and DIY.
No matter how careful you are when washing the car yourself, you will eventually get light swirl marks.
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E63
Properly wash the car using ONLY foam sponges. Properly apply Tech Shine after each washing and your black car will never see a swirl mark in its life!
http://tech-shine.com/
http://tech-shine.com/
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E63
I can't stress enough about the use of high quality, foam sponges. IMO, they are a key component in preventing swirl marks. The second crucial step is to use Tech Shine. Finally, use a high-powered blower to remove 90% of the water, leaving 1 microfiber towel for the final dry.
I have owned/currently own MANY exotic cars, all in the color black. Take my advice as I have learned the hard way ...
I have owned/currently own MANY exotic cars, all in the color black. Take my advice as I have learned the hard way ...
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#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Take your car to a body restoration specialist
Do not let the dealer or a Detailer do the work. Get a detail credit from the dealer. Mine was over$200.
Have the restoration specialist, who charge much more than an insurance body shop or Detailer per hour, evaluate your car. these are the people who prepare cars for the BJ auctions and MB Concours events on behalf of owners. There are several owners of major dealerships in the NE who pay and use these craftspeople for their own collectors and sports classics rather than their own body shops.
They will suggest an initial course of treatment that over the long run is better and cheaper than the swirl masters and Silicone Sisters. One can then do a full treatment oneself once or twice a year using professional body shop materials based on brands like DuPont, 3M and Mothers rather than a science fair experiment.
Oh, and put a clear plastic ding barrier over the car after the initial treatment.
Can anyone state what the best barrier is today? I used Ventureshield.
Have the restoration specialist, who charge much more than an insurance body shop or Detailer per hour, evaluate your car. these are the people who prepare cars for the BJ auctions and MB Concours events on behalf of owners. There are several owners of major dealerships in the NE who pay and use these craftspeople for their own collectors and sports classics rather than their own body shops.
They will suggest an initial course of treatment that over the long run is better and cheaper than the swirl masters and Silicone Sisters. One can then do a full treatment oneself once or twice a year using professional body shop materials based on brands like DuPont, 3M and Mothers rather than a science fair experiment.
Oh, and put a clear plastic ding barrier over the car after the initial treatment.
Can anyone state what the best barrier is today? I used Ventureshield.
Last edited by grane; 10-25-2011 at 10:46 PM.