Chamois or Water blade? What do you guys use? Will water blade scratch your paint?

Thanks for your share in advance!

 

I have been using "The Absorber" (available at wal-mart and most parts stores) for years. In my experience it works better than any other product I have tried. I have heard good things about the water blade, but I am happy with what I use, so I haven't tried it.

 

I have used the Water Blade, chamois, Absorber and many more. I keep coming back to the Absorber as it is cheap, effective and easy to remember which Absorber for which vehicle or region of a vehicle due to the colors. The Water Blade works great on flat surfaces, but you have to make sure no dirt or grit in between the blade or surface or else you will get a very large scrach in your paint. I use the Water Blade on my boat gunnels. Works great on long flat surfaces. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for your tips. Which absorber you like the most?

Thanks!

 

None of the above. I have a separate set of 100% cotton towels. It is my understanding a chamois or absorber will pull the wax off the surface, and I beleive it based upon my personal experiences with them. I also use a mr. clean auto dry to reduce the amount of drying I do.

 

~One man’s opinion / observations~

I use both a blade and a ww towel. Used correctly the WB will not scratch paint

Chamois Leather:
Genuine chamois leather is a unique and natural product, that is extremely soft, flexible, and absorbent
Typically chamois leather is used to dry off surfaces after washing; this is due to the absorbency and softness of the leather, the particles are held within the hollow fibre of the leather, eliminating abrasion. The chamois needs to be damp, but not wet to work.

Made by splitting the skin into two pieces; the selected sheepskins are 100% cod oil tanned to give the luxurious, golden, soft finish that can absorb six times its weight of water.

A Microfiber chamois (woven in a very similar texture) is a machine washable alternative that you don't have to soak before use and it releases dirt, brake dust and stains much easier that natural chamois (Groit's Microfiber Synthetic Chamois) doesn't dry hard, is very absorbent, easier to wring out and it will not `shed' and lasts longer and is less expensive than its natural counterpart.

Modem synthetic materials have gained ground and the use of chamois is being replaced by Microfiber waffle weave technology as they hold more water (approx. 5 times more water, therefore require wringing out less often) and will not `pull' wax from a paint surface. They also do not `dry stiff' like chamois nor do they have the `cod tanning' odour.

Water Blade:
The best-known brand (The Original California Water Blade) is made of medical-grade silicone so it should not scratch. It can be used to remove water without causing scratches by applying very little surface pressure with the blade, wiping with long strokes in one direction only. If there is any grit left on the car after washing, the blade may pick it up and drag it across the paint, much the same as a towel would, this can be avoided by wiping the blade with a clean damp towel after every pass. The water blade should be protected when not in use. If it is crushed in storage, the edge may take a set and leave a stripe of water on the car, the water blade comes with a protective plastic case, use it for blade storage.

Like any tool, the water blade does require a little bit of technique and practice. The first few times I used mine, it tended to chatter on the surface, resulting in incomplete drying. It turns out this is eliminated by using just the right angle and pressure on the blade. Smoothness can also be affected by the surface condition of the paint (wax, sealant oxidation, etc.) and any coating that might be on the water blade itself.

Do not use a water blade to remove rainwater as there could be road grit on the paint surface or the rain may contain impurities that could scratch the paint.


~Hope this helps~

Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

 

I use this too. It is like a chamois, but much easier to maintain. I bought mine at Kmart.

 

Dedicated leaf blower to remove standing water and a waffle weave microfiber towel.

Spritz the surface with a QD as you dry to help remove water spots and give a great shine.

Chamois, natural or synthetic, will harbor grit. I do not recommend them.

Anthony

 

 

both work great. I do think the quality of your follow up towel makes the biggest difference. I've tried a few and the Sonus towel seems to work the best for me.

 

I don't use either. The chamois can shorten the life of any wax or polish by lifting it from the surface eventually. If the blade is new it will leave silicone tracks on the finish or glass, besides its kinda hard and wouldn.t be as forgiving as something soft if a particle of grit gets between it and your paint. A soft cloth will allow the hard particle to compress into itself and be less likely to grate on your paint. I do use a blade on my boat, but it is painted with awlgrip.

I use a high quality terry cloth towel when I dry my car after washing. It gets washed and dried after every use. I have not had to reapply any polish or wax to my car in a year and it gets washed 2-3 times a week.

 

I also have been using the Absorber for many years and love it. So easy to maintain and works great!

 

Towels and chamois are great but for us in New York City who wash our cars in DIY car wash areas, wet towels will smell in the trunk so the water blade is our best option.

 

Have used leaf blower, then a microfiber towel

But I also use the geeky Mr Clean Auto Dry :o and I swear it dries perfect.

 

I don't know if you guys have had this experience, but the folks at Griot's Garage claim that most all cotton towels have synthetic stitching on the edges, and this is a source for at least some of the swirl marks and scratches in the paint. You can test for this by "burning' the stitching with an open flame from a match... the synthetic will melt, not burn.

I have been using compressed air and a "real" cotton towel. It works for me.

 

Holy Schmoly, if your your car is that sensitive to 1 millimeter wide synthetic threads then just leave it dirty and don't wash it!! That way you will avoid the "swirls"!!

 

Using the water blade can be time consuming, as part of a process where you would rather use the time for something else.

 

I use neither.........I purchased the best terry towels I could find and dry the car with those. The chamois removes the wax and I think the blade might scratch....but only you will be the one to ultimately decide.

 

I find the use of a water blade actually decreases my drying time over drying the whole car with a towel.

 

The water blade will not scratch your car unless you are trying to remove dirty water with it. If this is the case, even a good terry towel would scratch as well. The trick to drying your car without scratching begins with ensuring the car has been thoroughly washed, and rinsed with clean water.

 

I would like my car was painted like your boat !!! Awlgrip is awesome !!!

 

I use a combination of sheeting rinse, waterblade, leafblower and microfiber towels.

If you have a clean waterblade and you know how to properly wash your car you won't get scratches. If the clean waterblade is scratching your car then you probably need a lesson on a foammaster and/or two bucket washing and rinsing.

 

Definitely wouldn't use either of the two. First off when rinsing you would want to take your hose nozzle off and let the water run over your car (trust me it will sheet the water off). Then, I would highly recommend a waffle weave microfiber drying towel (www.detailedimage.com). And use a leaf blower to get the water trapped in the mouldings, mirrors etc. Just make sure you point the blower upwards so you don't kick dirt on the car.

 

I use the Water Blade in combination with the Costco yellow MF towels. The Water Blade cuts down on the number of towels I would normally use. I've also used the blade in combination with the Absorber in the past. Definitely cuts down on the number of times you have to wring it.

To address the "definitely wouldn't user either of the two": I and number of other people have used the Water blade on numberous cars including black cars. Never a single problem with it but you're obviously going to stick with what works for you.

 

A force acts through a body that has a surface area; if the surface area is really small while maintaining an equal force, the pressure becomes astronomical and the object under pressure capable of penetrating the surface of an otherwise tough material. That’s why a micro fine thread in an otherwise soft towel will scratch your paint and the same reason a mosquito can penetrate a rhino hide with its proboscis (stinger).