Hellow!

I have followed this thread with great enthusiasm, planing to modify my 04 ML 270CDI.

I'm planing to:
-Delete EGR in software (already done by resistors)
-Delete intake manifold flaps and M55 motor. (and cleaning the manifold)
-Delete catalysts, by replacing these parts with straight pipe.
-OM613 320CDI turbo (can the vacuum operation of the original turbo be used on this?)
-New Intercooler (there is a sensor wired to the old one, what to do?)
-Upgrade injectors (Dieselmeken in Sweden?)
-4 bar map sensor (MB original?)
-Remap (Any recommendations in Norway or Sweden?)
-Rebuild and reenforce auto trans if necessary (04 ML trans has same parts number as AMG, I was told)

My goal is 300hp/600Nm or V8 power!

I be very happy to have your thoughts, comments or recommendations on this!

 

Hi I'm from Toronto I also have a 05 e320 cdi.


I got my tuned from eurocharged the past couple of months and the gains were good.


I got 230whp from 202 listed stock and now around 480 torque to the wheels.
I have only my mufflers cut out.


The car has a good rumble but is there any way to make it louder?

 

I have a 2005 w211 E320 CDI :


1. w211 NON-AMG front bumper lip, preferably carbon fibre
2. A lip kit for the side skirts and also the back of the car is that's possible.
3. Rear window spoiler, either in black or carbon fibre
4. e55 amg tips.
5. sypder auto headlights with DRL leds.




Right now, I have BC racing coilovers, and I'm having a issue where my rear end keeps bottoming out. Is it happening to anyone else?

 

I cut apart my stock downpipe to remove the catalyzer and restriction it causes. 304 Stainless was used to keep welds as similar to the base material as possible. The basic bends and tubing was acquired off Amazon for less than $100 and it was easy really, used a 304 SS M18x1.5mm lambda weld on bung to retain the wideband is close to stock location. Had no MIL or check engine lights. Later I ditched the stock mufflers and just ran 2.25" straight dump pipes out the bumper on either side at the rear. I love the look and sound but I'm sort of weird.

I'm running the Green Diesel Engineering (AlienTech) flash and am very pleased, with my current setup I'm right at 470 ft/lbs and 240 bhp according to two way run averages using an accelerometer app on my phone, the same app showed roughly 370 ft/lbs and 190 bhp in stock trim with mild gains when I did each portion of the exhaust modding.

I'll try to add some pics I posted on my bike forum from the last year. With EGR now defeated highway cruise mpg is consistently at or near 40mpg, zero smoke visible. I'm only a couple of mods away from what I consider finished with this car...at 137k miles now...and only one catastrophic SBC brake failure...

















Car on a 4k mile road trip to Reno air races and back to Texas, from north rim of Grand Canyon

 

How did you do the EGR delete?
Is there any black smoke coming out?
Any performance or fuel differences?
Pros and cons??


I already have a muffler delete with tips at the back

 

Egr delete done through programming. The reflash tool I used from Green Diesel Engineering worked perfectly, no smoke, much better running and I have a 50k mile baseline on how the car "normally" behaves. I've been lucky that I have had no egr related problems but since I'm driving this car 30-40k per year now doing everything from pleasure and business travel to storm chasing I decided not to wait for problems. In the next round of mods the intake manifold is getting cleaned up internally, the flapper valves removed while apart and egr box also deleted. Power is by about 40 bhp over stock, torque about 100 ft/lbs over stock, fuel economy up average of 10mpg since purchasing car used at 77k miles. AEM diesel specific water/methanol injection to be installed at same time as intake manifold repair, will have to take car off road for a few days to get it all done the way I like it unless I can source a used manifold to start with.

The turbo downpipe was my own design, executed by a pro as my TIG welder was down at the time. At same time as intake manifold is reworked and water injection added crankcase breather will be re-routed to Greddy catch can. With water/methanol injection, post intercooler my intake should stay spotless and the cylinder head itself should self clean over next 10k miles while providing extra power during the brutal summer months here in Texas and around the desert southwest where I do severe storm photography.

I have more pics from the mod process to come, just haven't been active on this forum for a while. I'll try to keep updates coming as they happen and I get a chance to edit "fun" pics. Maybe a video or two is in order, the sound is a combination of Cummins inline six and gas turbine...perfect to my ears, not loud inside car with windows up at all.


Adding some pics from downpipe build process, nothing super cool on memory card, just some basic measurements for anyone else sharing my sickness. Next time the Ferrari is off the lift, hopefully the motor swap is finished soon, I will be putting the Benz back up for a tranny service and diff fluid, I'm WAY past the 40k interval right now, feels fine, not leaking but have to do oil and filters again soon so I'll get some decent pics of downpipe installed with the 6D instead of the crappy Nikon s8200 these were shot with, promise better quality, might even break out the studio lights...




On the cart, ready to cut...and weld...and grind, ended up with a perfect fit for stock v-bands at both ends




Other end...

 

For some reason the on the cart pic refuses to give me a correct address, let me try this



If not try the attached pic?

 

I posted in another thread about this but I figured I would try here as well.

What is the consensus on what the best "tune" is for the E320cdi? I'm not trying to break records, just want safe, clean, efficient, power/mpg boost and disable the egr.

I have read about the brabus, carlsson and kleenman box's (can't seem to find a used one for sale anywhere) and GDE, Rocket chip maps/chip.

Perhaps there are better options? Or one of the above is the best option?

Again I'm trying to run the car at least up to the 400k miles my 190 had before selling to someone who drives it 200 miles a day... So nothing that will hurt longevity, and of course will disable egr. So what should I go with?

Thanks.

 

GDE, or Green Diesel Engineering kills egr, doesn't spike EGT and has been fantastic on mine. I didn't want a simple fuel pressure increase at the rail, it's quite high enough IMHO. It's not the cheapest option but one of the best. It's just a rebranded, possibly slightly tweaked version of the AlienTech software but I'm pleased with it for 15k miles now, maybe 20, on the scooter today so car log book with me?

 

I'm glad you have the GDE tune, I was seriously considering that as it seemed both safe and the proper way to tune. I need an obd reader anyway.

People say and I agree to an extent that the "box's" are the wrong way to go about things. However it appears that the Carlsson box is quite sophisticated and monitors more sensors etc which lead me to believe it could be another contender (if I could ever find a used one).
Would you say the power/mpg gains are similar? And come to think of it, I doubt it would have the ability to disable the EGR, so why the price tag? Hmmm.

 

GDE, works, when I bought this car dead stock I was getting average of 27-28 mpg which I didn't think too bad...as the mods stacked up I'm now consistently getting 35-40 mpg, I don't spend much time in city traffic though. On full tank highway trips I've gotten over 40 mpg and I drive speed limit plus five, speed limits on Texas highways are not low, well above the national average. My best full tank to date was 43.7 mpg but being at altitude and having favorable winds helps a lot with that. I'm not basing my mileage numbers off the cars system, actual per tank math. GDE was worth between 3-6 mpg with my other mods, zero smoke, very pleased.

 

Got the GDE tune after reading much over on the sprinter forums, you were right this is a great tune.

Next: Intercooler

Is there a consensus on core sizing that will fit behind stock bumper? I want to get a larger cooler but not sure what will work. It would be neat if someone has found a cooler already with end tanks that fits well.


Lastly, Micah can you post pictures of your crankcase breather/catch can setup?

Thanks.

 

X2 on the IC questions. I'd like to buy a straight pipe section to replace the CAT.

 

Awesome work Micha, dont fancy making me a de-cat do you?? lol

 

I am enjoying mine .. except some of the stuff that I need to fix like leaky fuel sender

These are awesome cars just bone stock. I recently got a tune that turns off EGR and swirls and boosts torque to over 420 Lb-Ft and it is even more impressive. I don't know of many cars that can do this AND still do over 40 MPG highway. Even when I drive it aggressively I get 28 MPG (mixed city and highway). I know I am going to be hungry for more soon ... wish there was a bigger following for these great cars for mods.

 

Bumping and old thread .... I was wondering if anyone has tried any of these modifications? These were recommended on another forum by Tuikku - probably one of the most knowledgable diesel guys around. But I haven't heard of anyone actually putting these on and posting results.

I am looking for a mere 300+ HP. I have a tune already and the car runs pretty good ... but now I want more LOL. I don't mind paying for AMG injectors but it'd be good to know where all the restrictions are ... read also that the outlet from the turbo is also very restrictive but haven't seen anyone change this either.

Cooler

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-FULL-A...0843152359

Billet compressor wheel

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Turbo-Com...Mr&vxp=mtr

 

I've taken the charge pipe resonator/turbo out-pipe out to measure it, because it's going in the trash once I figure out a solution, my OM642 Sprinter has one too but it's on top of right valve cover and easy to see, on both motors I'm pretty sure this item only exists to help kill turbo compressor noise, a noise I happen to like very much. Been busy with work but here in the near future I'll be doing my new intake finally, and the kidney resonator is also coming out on the post charge cooler side.

I did a series of data logging runs in last couple of weeks trying to decide if there is any advantage other than cosmetic in doing a ditch and rebuild of the stock air intake. Measurements on MAF and IAT were surprising. For testing I just left lid off stock airbox, I was surprised to see no real (+1-2F) change in IAT nor any real change in MAF values one way or the other at speeds greater than "Austin traffic/high idle" due to what I expected to be amuck warmer IAT to air filter.

I suspect I'll get into the close to 300 bhp range with stock turbocharger, though I'll confess to looking for a billet compressor wheel, and porting of the entry and snail. The stock IC thickness is pretty close to max available space between front alloy cross bar and next heat exchanger core. I too have been trying to find a way to do a larger cooler but retain the really nice OEM clip type charge hose connections. If anyone has ideas here I'm listening.

The only Dyno stuff I've played with on this car has been with iPhone or iPad based Dyno apps which after spending the last two+ decades Dyno tuning motorcycles using mainly Mustang Dyno test equipment honestly seem every bit as accurate as any dynojet I've used in that period provided you scale car accurately and use two way averages to eliminate road grades and wind preferences. I'm near sea level so that may help in accounting for air pressure related drag correction accuracy. I know the car "felt and actually was" much faster in acceleration from highway speed road testing at 9k feet MSL due to turbo still able to hit close to 30psi true manifold pressure while have WAY less drag on chassis due to air density than near sea level.

Over 300bhp-ish is going to require a step or two up on turbo size.

 

You're definitely one of the more adventurous ones in US with regards to this platform I think .. not many making the same mods you are.

If you have welding skills (which it appears you do) I would dump the stock clamps and put some nice v-bands on there . Yes, also read elsewhere about the restrictive outlet from the turbo. I haven't looked real closely at it but imagine a few well chosen mandrel bends could solve the issue. Like you, I don't mind and actually like a little more noise if it means more power

The link I included to a billet compressor wheel could be promising and isn't super expensive. I wonder if anyone has actually tried it yet ... I might just get it and try it out. I have seen so many different possibilities for turbos from various threads, my head is spinning.

For the cooler, I need to look closer at it. It's always a fight to keep temps down. In another car I had, I got rid of the bumper support to make room for a thicker core intercooler and actually cut the bumper support and made the intercooler part of the bumper support. I wonder if that is possible for the E320. Just a thought.

My CDI is my daily driver ... but with thoughts of mods in my head .. it may not become my daily ...

 

My daily driver too. Volume of a charge cooler is about as inportant as surface area, the other heat exchangers seems to work well enough with that front brace covering them so I'm a bit undecided there. I have TIG/MIG and a few other welders plus a *****in' plasma cutter, v-bands easy enough. The engineering of the stock turbo couplers has really impressed me though. Recently on eBay.de I saw an all cast aluminum version of the post turbo resonator instead of the plastic ones we have, that got me to thinking...buy two (both were like sub €50) use one as jig, cut ends off other, weld up a few bends of aluminum pipe with about 2% taper, done. Pretty much everyone at work shares same sickness as me, currently the parking lot looks somewhat high brow, non stock Golf TDI, Jetta, Audi 3.0V6 supercharged getting less stock every week, Bentley Turbo R being converted to actually fun power levels, heavily modified Lotus espirit, Honda Beat, Ferrari 308/H23A Honda motor and trans swap...I could go on. We build a few little custom shop projects every year like the turbocharged Moto Guzzi V7 flat track bike featured in Cycle World right now, ALL work is done in house at shop.

My car effectively has no resale value left at 177k miles and using it a thousand miles per week, now it's just a fun commuter toy that gets about a 1000 miles per week put on it. Since it has no resale value left, why not do as many cheap yet effective mods as possible? Document, share etc. I've kept OCD level notes on service and mods and logging and fuel economy for years now. Finally I really can get 38-41mpg full tank averages as long as winds and temps are favorable.

I'm running my car to failure, then I'll probably keep it at ranch as a parts car and take motor parts and mods and transfer to another W211 or similar...would love to do a manual shift strong tranny OM648 as I'm well short of power I can make now often hitting torque limiters at well under 1,600rpm. I think (not totally sure here but math works) that if not for 478 ft/lbs torque limit to protect transmission I could probably get into the 550-600 ft/lbs range pretty easy and with at minimum a 2-4mm increase in compressor wheel and cleaned up resized turbo snail size 300-330 bhp on the AMG injectors would be easy.

I'm betting next round of mods is going to see even lower EGT's, and about 20-25 bhp gain from just my ported manifold and de-resonated intake piping and a light dosing of water/methanol. Even at full power loads I've only barely managed to touch 1200F EGT on very hot days here in hellish Texas. The OM648 seems to be the Toyota Supra/Yamaha 2JZ-GTE of mid sized inline six diesels. Another option on the consideration list is a fully ported and built cylinder head. Like fuel, the more air you trap in the cylinder at intake-close on valves, the more power and fuel economy you get, restrictions taken out of intake allow for same or better power levels at lower EGT/IAT and absolute pressure.

Here is my non flapper intake manifold the day it arrived sea freight from Germany:



The perfect hybrid for an aviation junkie like me, half jet, half piston motor. So on dynolicous app best power runs in last year were 253-262 on two way averages but vastly different atmospheric conditions. 300 bhp seems low hanging fruit...you have seen what the 335/535/X5D diesel BMW folks are getting now even here in USA? Drove a 400-420 bhp 335D recently, cannot honestly say I'm not interested in adding one of those to fleet as they are taking the typical tuetonic depreciation trajectory. After 99.9k miles they are now 12-15k U$D cars. Hmmm.


All the runners have since been ported or at least port matched to new OEM gasket I bought from ID parts at same time



Looks a bit different now, have not decided to polish or paint the final version, just a few welds left before decision time...thoughts? A crinkle ferrar Rosso Corsa red would stand out nicely?




While intake is off I will be doing new Beru 5V glow plugs and walnut shell media blasting of intake ports and valves because putting a cleaned and ported manifold, de-venturied up pipe, non resonator charge piping and such onto a carboned up cylinder head cold side seems sacrilege. Mercedes sold me the wrong glow plugs last time but the Bosch 11V items have caused no issues even when car has been as far north as Colorado or Tahoe...but you gotta pull either glow plugs or injectors to manually rotate crankshaft for media blasting so I'm going with the easy option there. I'm not pulling injectors till one fails or at very least I find a deal I cannot pass up on the AMG items.

We shall see how far stock injectors allow power to rise, I honestly think very close to 300 bhp is possible. Just got to clean up all that other bs first and get the water/meth dialed in. On my land speed race bike (1060cc twin, supercharger, nitrous) water meth was good for 12-15 bhp gain on my Mustange Dyno at 170-190 bhp wheel power.

I guess really with this car I'm at the nothing to lose or be disappointed about stage of ownership...so throw air and fuel at under load like a madman, why not?

This is up pipe to manifold as it came out of box, slightly more carbon than my OEM one. This shows the massive percentage of intake pipe blocked by EGR Venturi:



This is after half an hour with proper porting tools and a few flap wheels used up...welding not done yet in this pic to add water/meth spigot at previous Venturi entry location to up-pipe. This is where the number 1 size nozzle will go since it is post IAT

 

Looking good Micah! You obviously work fast if you do this to your DD. Unfortunately, I am slow.

I knew that sprinter vans had an aluminum outlet version available sure to them breaking but did not know about the E320 CDI aluminum outlet. Could you post or PM me a link to it? I'd like to check it out too! Keep the pics coming, I think we all love to watch!

 

I own a motorcycle dealership so when weather is OK I can park the e320 on the car lift for a few days, I'm not fast at doing most of this, just stubborn and a bit OCD. I found the alloy (cast) turbo out pipe on eBay.de by searching for w211 or OM648 turbo pipes. I knew when I saw the metal ones...a light bulb came on. They still have resonator but nothing cutting and welding cannot fix. If only I had a buddy with an extrude-hone machine, would love to do compressor and charge out pipe and manifold but at quoted prices, never gonna happen.


Here is 177k mile updated pic, dirty as usual, like a panther crouching in the tall grass...of my local home airfield, KBAZ

 

Hey guys I got a couple questions

How much boost do you guys see when cruising around 100km/h - 120km/h (62-75mph) on a flat highway and what is your IAT readings at these speeds? Also what is the ambient temperature? And on what tune?

In my car I have an upsolute remap and an egr delete circuit because the map just reduces egr instead of deleting it. I'm seeing between 7-10psi and 45 degrees Celsius IAT with an ambient temperature of 25 degrees Celsius at these speeds.

I have a feeling the egr delete circuit is raising the boost too much while cruising which is also raising my IAT because the intercooler can't keep it cool enough when under constant boost which is lowering my fuel economy because of how hot the air is.

 

At 60mph I'm usually about 7psi boost pressure, 70mph about 10 psi boost pressure and 80mph about 11-12psi of boost pressure. In Fahrenheit my IAT is usually 27-32 degrees hotter than ambient, even with lid off airbox for testing I only logged an additional 1-2 degrees F at speed, in traffic 10-20F warmer than ambient. Ambient temps here in centra Texas are usually 55-110F. I'm still for moment on stock Intercooler. My car is one a slightly modified version of the GDE tune. I'm also straight pipes from turbo to tail.

Additional boost is just the turbine and engine running at higher efficiency due to disabled EGR, no harm, no foul there.

 

Interesting boost pressures there. I am running at 3.6 psi at 68 MPH. This is on the ScanGageII and verified with a mechanical boost gauge. Like you said, probably the lack of EGR and less back pressure from the CAT removal.

 

That is almost exactly same as my OM648 prior to egr kill-off. On any motor EGR only works when exhaust manifold pressure is greater than intake manifold pressure. Killing EGR alone is a worthwhile modification IMHO. I saw no significant increase in EGT, slight but well under any critical number.