E320 CDi mod
Also current torque at 478 ft/lbs, which is fine but definitely wouldn't mind carrying that or more to higher rpm which is where it is more power. Where do I hit defined failure point of trans. I do not often use full power, like a few times a year and change trans oil every 50k miles or so but have never seen debris or even significant darkening of fluid. Commute is 100 miles daily.
The water/meth thing I want to switch to charge temp triggering ONLY instead of boost combined with "at will" use via manual control. The reason is often in Texas summers 104-112F is ambient temp so hitting 50C power reduction can happen often with my mapping where I left that safety (for the motor) protection alone. I have a slightly larger intercooler but have also been considering a water to air charge cooler as they work much better on everything I've tried them on...
Enough for now. Back to ordering disks and pads and sensors and normal wear items. SBC cannot even with Star or iCarSoft be convinced my severely worn rotors -6.5-7.1mm front and -4mm rear are OK. Time to fix this for the next 200k. Pretty ones in shopping cart, cast with holes, not drilled.
Also current torque at 478 ft/lbs, which is fine but definitely wouldn't mind carrying that or more to higher rpm which is where it is more power. Where do I hit defined failure point of trans. I do not often use full power, like a few times a year and change trans oil every 50k miles or so but have never seen debris or even significant darkening of fluid. Commute is 100 miles daily.
The water/meth thing I want to switch to charge temp triggering ONLY instead of boost combined with "at will" use via manual control. The reason is often in Texas summers 104-112F is ambient temp so hitting 50C power reduction can happen often with my mapping where I left that safety (for the motor) protection alone. I have a slightly larger intercooler but have also been considering a water to air charge cooler as they work much better on everything I've tried them on...
Enough for now. Back to ordering disks and pads and sensors and normal wear items. SBC cannot even with Star or iCarSoft be convinced my severely worn rotors -6.5-7.1mm front and -4mm rear are OK. Time to fix this for the next 200k. Pretty ones in shopping cart, cast with holes, not drilled.
If I make a V4 manifold I’m only using part of the stock manifold, water to air charge cooler will make up most of plenum section and all port runners will be tipped with appropriate radiused stacks.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I would warn against the AEM water/meth. They seem to have quite a few issues with the pump or some piece failing and allowing water into the intake and possible engine hydro locking. I would recommend the Snow performance parts over the AEM for quality and longevity.
Please post up some pics of the non-silenced pipe. Did they ever make a factory metal one? Is the charge cooler piping still mostly rubber?
Any plans for the exhaust manifold?
weird, the pictures I uploaded are not showing up...can always link to them if needed...
[img]https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=373779&d=1548384182
[img]https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=373780&d=1548384182
Last edited by Micah / AF1 Rac; Jan 24, 2019 at 09:45 PM.
Stock OM648 intercooler discharge pipe with silencer, soon to look different
Stock OM648 intercooler discharge pipe with silencer, soon to look different
Stock OM648 intercooler discharge pipe with silencer, soon to look different
that was fast...by tomorrow or next week the intake silencer on this pipe should be gone for good!
Looks like the S320 CDI got this pipe overseas.
So EGT question for the pros. On racing motorcycle builds for land speed I put both wideband and EGT probes pre turbo for max speed and data resolution at lower rpms. What is considered THE ideal location for an EGT probe. I’m thinking near entry to turbocharger as it should show a nice consistent blend of all six cylinders EGT and allow me to never exceed 1180x1200F, though on race bikes I commonly run 1550F if supercharged or nitrous, but definitely not into a nice Garrett Turbocharger.
Btw, I have seen that aluminum compressor “oil return”/silencer in a form closer to exact replacement part but could not find again. I try to save all part numbers for easier searching. That said, my master list was on a tablet destroyed by a customer by accident so I’m rebuilding it slowly. If anyone has the Saloon differential part number it’s like 7% taller final drive gearing, I need to get another of those too.
That is where I would put the EGT probe since this is a non-divided manifold. 1250F sustained is safe. You can do over 1500F for 15-20 second or so bursts with no ill effects since it takes a bit for the metal to get this hot as well.
I think you are looking for the wagon/estate differential that is taller. The saloon would be the same as we got since that is what they call a sedan across the pond.
If anyone finds the factory replacement metal one please post it up. That might only require 2 cuts and welds to remove the silencer from.
Issatay and tuikku, your thoughts on this bit pictured above? If it offers only minimal restriction while protecting injectors I’ll keep em’ in place. Injectors are crazy money.




Last edited by turbo97se; Feb 1, 2019 at 09:17 AM.
Issatay and tuikku, your thoughts on this bit pictured above? If it offers only minimal restriction while protecting injectors I’ll keep em’ in place. Injectors are crazy money.
If so, that was your issue. Temps after the turbo will be ~300 F lower than in the manifold before the turbo.
1250 F pre turbo is fine for sustained periods of towing, 1450F, or really even higher, is fine for 15-20 second pulls. Sounds like you were closer to 1500 or 1550 sustained pre-turbo and thats not good.
Do you think the turbo was possibly sticking creating a lot of exhaust backpressure as well? What boost was it making?
I also see that Darkside Developments (big in the TDI community) is offering a GT2570v hybrid turbo for sale for our cars. Appears to use a much larger turbine and a larger billet compressor wheel.
https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....-mercedes.html








But yeah, green'd be different.
