300 sdl performance mods
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Mercedes Benz 300 SDL
300 sdl performance mods
I own a 1986 Mercedes Benz 300 SDL.
I did a search on this site on performance modifications for this car; the only one I found was to run a straight pipe exhaust, which increases the boost of the turbo. How much of a horsepower increase is typically found with this modification?
What sort of aftermarket turbo kits are available that will fit this car?
Is the engine capable of reliably handling increased amounts of turbo boost without expensive things breaking and if so, how much boost? I know these engines are very reliable in their stock configuration, but I've heard conflicting reports from different mechanics on how well these engines hold up(some say 400,000 miles is typical but the bottom of the engine is stressed due to the high compression and tends to crack WITH tock configuration, others say the engine is nearly indestructable and I've also seen videos of 300+ hp configurations)
I do have aftermarket transmission components installed, that can supposedly handle 600 lb-ft of torque.
I do plan to design and implement body panels that will reduce aerodynamic drag first and foremost, and may add downforce; this is being done moreso for fuel economy than anything, but with gearing changes, significant improvements in top speed could result along with a small increase in acceleration above 60 mph.
It will also be using either a greasecar or frybrid kit, with dual tanks, so as to prevent engine damage from improperly prepared 'fuel'.
I did a search on this site on performance modifications for this car; the only one I found was to run a straight pipe exhaust, which increases the boost of the turbo. How much of a horsepower increase is typically found with this modification?
What sort of aftermarket turbo kits are available that will fit this car?
Is the engine capable of reliably handling increased amounts of turbo boost without expensive things breaking and if so, how much boost? I know these engines are very reliable in their stock configuration, but I've heard conflicting reports from different mechanics on how well these engines hold up(some say 400,000 miles is typical but the bottom of the engine is stressed due to the high compression and tends to crack WITH tock configuration, others say the engine is nearly indestructable and I've also seen videos of 300+ hp configurations)
I do have aftermarket transmission components installed, that can supposedly handle 600 lb-ft of torque.
I do plan to design and implement body panels that will reduce aerodynamic drag first and foremost, and may add downforce; this is being done moreso for fuel economy than anything, but with gearing changes, significant improvements in top speed could result along with a small increase in acceleration above 60 mph.
It will also be using either a greasecar or frybrid kit, with dual tanks, so as to prevent engine damage from improperly prepared 'fuel'.
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2006 E320 CDi, 2008 3/4 Ton Suburban, 2007 "rice rickshaw" Accord 5 speed
what is the point?
Presumably you want to go faster when you talked about swapping a performance turbo on your W126 300 SDL. This is a very heavy car for the 5 cylinder diesel. I had a 560 SEL and it was sluggish with 230 bhp or so, with the two "side mufflers" removed. You need to bring the engine up to at least that number before you will notice any "performance".
You also talked about bio-diesel or SVO conversion. This will reduce the power of the engine not enhance it.
You also talked about bio-diesel or SVO conversion. This will reduce the power of the engine not enhance it.
#3
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It would be a 6 cyl in the SDL, but even with the extra cyl it's still a tuna boat.
Best performance mod for the buck you could get would be a lead soled right shoe IMO.
It was designed to be a luxury cruiser, not a sprinter.
Best performance mod for the buck you could get would be a lead soled right shoe IMO.
It was designed to be a luxury cruiser, not a sprinter.
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SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
Your car is from the era that takes allot of work to get some power gains. The new diesels, we simply tune the ECU and voila! 50hp/75lb ft tq.... at least.
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Mercedes Benz 300 SDL
Presumably you want to go faster when you talked about swapping a performance turbo on your W126 300 SDL. This is a very heavy car for the 5 cylinder diesel. I had a 560 SEL and it was sluggish with 230 bhp or so, with the two "side mufflers" removed. You need to bring the engine up to at least that number before you will notice any "performance".
Even getting to only 170-180 horsepower would satisfy my wants for this Mercedes.
You also talked about bio-diesel or SVO conversion. This will reduce the power of the engine not enhance it.
Does anyone here have experience running an older diesel with straight-pipe exhaust, and if so, what power gains can be expected? With me running WVO in this, emissions and environmental impact wouldn't be much of a worry.
Thanks for your answers. I did more searching on these forums and didn't find much; I can't help but wonder how those individuals from Finland got 300+ bhp out of these.
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I would be quite pleased if I could obtain even that modest figure. I don't want a race car from it; I have a Triumph GT6 electric vehicle conversion in progress for that...
Even getting to only 170-180 horsepower would satisfy my wants for this Mercedes.
While usually true(I've seen also dyno results showing small gains from SVO/WVO on some cars, but I expect a 10% or so decrease in power on mine), the purpose of that mod isn't performance. The reasons are for saving money and reducing environmental impact.
I'd be quite pleased with 'a little'. 0-60 mph ~9 seconds would be satisfactory, but if better can be obtained without costing more than $3-4k or compromising reliability, I will definately consider it.
I wish mine were compatible with a rocketchip. A E300D will see significant gains with one, allowing perhaps 0-60 mph in 7 seconds. I wasn't able to find one near me though, and at the time, only had a bicycle as viable transportation; the SDL was close and available.
Does anyone here have experience running an older diesel with straight-pipe exhaust, and if so, what power gains can be expected? With me running WVO in this, emissions and environmental impact wouldn't be much of a worry.
Thanks for your answers. I did more searching on these forums and didn't find much; I can't help but wonder how those individuals from Finland got 300+ bhp out of these.
Even getting to only 170-180 horsepower would satisfy my wants for this Mercedes.
While usually true(I've seen also dyno results showing small gains from SVO/WVO on some cars, but I expect a 10% or so decrease in power on mine), the purpose of that mod isn't performance. The reasons are for saving money and reducing environmental impact.
I'd be quite pleased with 'a little'. 0-60 mph ~9 seconds would be satisfactory, but if better can be obtained without costing more than $3-4k or compromising reliability, I will definately consider it.
I wish mine were compatible with a rocketchip. A E300D will see significant gains with one, allowing perhaps 0-60 mph in 7 seconds. I wasn't able to find one near me though, and at the time, only had a bicycle as viable transportation; the SDL was close and available.
Does anyone here have experience running an older diesel with straight-pipe exhaust, and if so, what power gains can be expected? With me running WVO in this, emissions and environmental impact wouldn't be much of a worry.
Thanks for your answers. I did more searching on these forums and didn't find much; I can't help but wonder how those individuals from Finland got 300+ bhp out of these.
1) those cars are much much lighter.
2) they have what appeared to be either AMG and/or heavily modified 5 cylinder engines.
3) they have manual gear shifts.
4) did you see the beautiful thick black smoke belching out of the exhaust pipes? Say bye bye to Earth Day.
A straight pipe would help the turbo spool up faster. I do not know about power increase. Visit this good diesel site, tdiclub.com and see.
Personally, I would go for a MY 2010 Chevy Camaro for performance. 400 bhp out of the box and still returns good fuel economy.
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#8
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"240D 3.0T" has already done all the mods you've discussed and more an can answer all your questions.
I doubt you are going to go from ~130hp up to 170 levels without a much bigger turbo and bigger injection pump valve elements.
Would be cheaper and more rewarding in the end to dirve what you have while you save that $4k (and your SDL) and shop for a 98/99 E300 turbo'd car. They are rated at 174hp and chippable for $250 to get you over 200hp easily.
All of the above is moot if you are going to burn waste oil. I can promise you that even using commercially prepared B99 that power for my E300 is down a good 10% and that economy suffers equally as you give it more throttle to maintain accel and speed in normal driving. I would expect even less economy/performance with waste oil. There is a point at which you begin causing more harm than good.....
I doubt you are going to go from ~130hp up to 170 levels without a much bigger turbo and bigger injection pump valve elements.
Would be cheaper and more rewarding in the end to dirve what you have while you save that $4k (and your SDL) and shop for a 98/99 E300 turbo'd car. They are rated at 174hp and chippable for $250 to get you over 200hp easily.
All of the above is moot if you are going to burn waste oil. I can promise you that even using commercially prepared B99 that power for my E300 is down a good 10% and that economy suffers equally as you give it more throttle to maintain accel and speed in normal driving. I would expect even less economy/performance with waste oil. There is a point at which you begin causing more harm than good.....
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1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
You can easliy make the power you want with an intercooler, more boost, and head/intake porting.
40 hp on ANY turbo car is a walk in the park.
40 hp on ANY turbo car is a walk in the park.
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For mileage use the MB diesel.
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2006 E320 CDi, 2008 3/4 Ton Suburban, 2007 "rice rickshaw" Accord 5 speed
I am talking so much about the detuned ZR-1 engine because I was listening to one singing for about 10 minutes. Beautiful. The sales guy offered me a 10% discount off the windshield sticker without any prompting. This CTS-V is a much better buy than the Corvette. Less power but gives you so much more for the money.
The new E63 will have 525 bhp at a much higher price, maybe double, at the price GM is blowing these babies out these days. Sad but true.
The new E63 will have 525 bhp at a much higher price, maybe double, at the price GM is blowing these babies out these days. Sad but true.
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1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
What sort of aftermarket turbo kits are available that will fit this car?
Is the engine capable of reliably handling increased amounts of turbo boost without expensive things breaking and if so, how much boost?
I do have aftermarket transmission components installed, that can supposedly handle 600 lb-ft of torque.
I do plan to design and implement body panels that will reduce aerodynamic drag first and foremost, and may add downforce; this is being done moreso for fuel economy than anything
It will also be using either a greasecar or frybrid kit, with dual tanks, so as to prevent engine damage from improperly prepared 'fuel'.
Does anyone here have experience running an older diesel with straight-pipe exhaust, and if so, what power gains can be expected? With me running WVO in this, emissions and environmental impact wouldn't be much of a worry.
BS. The 603 needs none of that and a 40hp increase is all the injection pump is capable of supporting.
Last edited by 240D 3.0T; 03-30-2009 at 08:35 PM.
#13
Atmospheric pressure adjustment
The injection pump has a diaphram on the top rear. Pain in the butt to get to. It may still be capped off, although most older MB's have been fiddled with. You can pull the intake manifold to access. Take cap off. There is a lock nut and straight screw on top. Make an adj. wheel that will fit this and reinstall intake man. Turning this in will increase the mixture. Turn in until engine smokes under heavy accel. probably 1/2-1 turn. This will get you a little more power. Be gentle w/ the lock nut (10 mm) it will pull the threads in the aluminum if you crank on it too hard. You might try having injectors rebuilt also. Did this to my 350 SDL and helped it some.
#14
don't fool with turbo
the turbo should run 15-16 psi before the waste gate kicks in. Waste gate is adjustable. these 6 cly engines are not designed to run more that that. you will blow a head gasket/engine if you go more than that.
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1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
Adjusting the ALDA does not increase horsepower.
That is 100% false.
From the factory they are set at 9psi boost, despite the specs calling for 12psi.
The engine is capable of more than 300hp on bone stock internals when the injection pump and air induction are modified to supply enough air and fuel.
From the factory they are set at 9psi boost, despite the specs calling for 12psi.
The engine is capable of more than 300hp on bone stock internals when the injection pump and air induction are modified to supply enough air and fuel.
#16
Adjusting the ALDA does not increase horsepower.
That is 100% false.
From the factory they are set at 9psi boost, despite the specs calling for 12psi.
The engine is capable of more than 300hp on bone stock internals when the injection pump and air induction are modified to supply enough air and fuel.
That is 100% false.
From the factory they are set at 9psi boost, despite the specs calling for 12psi.
The engine is capable of more than 300hp on bone stock internals when the injection pump and air induction are modified to supply enough air and fuel.
My factory engine manual must be wrong also. It says 1 to 1.2 bars on the wastegate. When you stretch the head bolts and blow the head gasket on your 300 6 cly trying to get too much HP from it, Ive got a #14 head (straight injectors) I pulled of a wreck I'll be glad to sell you. I'm sorry I'm so stupid but my 350 is still going strong and has enough power.
#17
"240D 3.0T" has already done all the mods you've discussed and more an can answer all your questions.
I doubt you are going to go from ~130hp up to 170 levels without a much bigger turbo and bigger injection pump valve elements.
Would be cheaper and more rewarding in the end to dirve what you have while you save that $4k (and your SDL) and shop for a 98/99 E300 turbo'd car. They are rated at 174hp and chippable for $250 to get you over 200hp easily.
All of the above is moot if you are going to burn waste oil. I can promise you that even using commercially prepared B99 that power for my E300 is down a good 10% and that economy suffers equally as you give it more throttle to maintain accel and speed in normal driving. I would expect even less economy/performance with waste oil. There is a point at which you begin causing more harm than good.....
I doubt you are going to go from ~130hp up to 170 levels without a much bigger turbo and bigger injection pump valve elements.
Would be cheaper and more rewarding in the end to dirve what you have while you save that $4k (and your SDL) and shop for a 98/99 E300 turbo'd car. They are rated at 174hp and chippable for $250 to get you over 200hp easily.
All of the above is moot if you are going to burn waste oil. I can promise you that even using commercially prepared B99 that power for my E300 is down a good 10% and that economy suffers equally as you give it more throttle to maintain accel and speed in normal driving. I would expect even less economy/performance with waste oil. There is a point at which you begin causing more harm than good.....
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1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
READ: It does not increase power.
Adjusting the ALDA changes the boost:fuel curve, it does not alter how much fuel is injected. You had 143hp before adjusting it and you'll have 143hp after.
That won't do anything for the fact it still has harmful contents that don't burn.
You bought a rod-bender and use WVO, it doesn't get much more so than that.
Adjusting the ALDA changes the boost:fuel curve, it does not alter how much fuel is injected. You had 143hp before adjusting it and you'll have 143hp after.
I'm sorry I'm so stupid but my 350 is still going strong and has enough power.
Of course, as we've been told I'm stupid and don't know what I'm talking about
Last edited by 240D 3.0T; 04-03-2009 at 05:08 AM.
#19
READ: It does not increase power.
Adjusting the ALDA changes the boost:fuel curve, it does not alter how much fuel is injected. You had 143hp before adjusting it and you'll have 143hp after.
That won't do anything for the fact it still has harmful contents that don't burn.
You bought a rod-bender and use WVO, it doesn't get much more so than that.
Adjusting the ALDA changes the boost:fuel curve, it does not alter how much fuel is injected. You had 143hp before adjusting it and you'll have 143hp after.
That won't do anything for the fact it still has harmful contents that don't burn.
You bought a rod-bender and use WVO, it doesn't get much more so than that.
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1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
Again, an intercooler and head/intake porting will get you there no problem. Of course, you can take the advice of someone who has built and tuned his own 700hp street/drag car, or you can take the advice of someone who has a Volvo with a Mercedes motor in it... Which makes less hp and gets worse gas mileage MODIFIED than my wife's stock Hyundai..
The choice is yours.
The choice is yours.
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Again, an intercooler and head/intake porting will get you there no problem. Of course, you can take the advice of someone who has built and tuned his own 700hp street/drag car, or you can take the advice of someone who has a Volvo with a Mercedes motor in it... Which makes less hp and gets worse gas mileage MODIFIED than my wife's stock Hyundai..
The choice is yours.
The choice is yours.
Why did MB built a weaker 6 cylinder diesel engine after the indestructible 5 cylnder in the eighties?
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1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
You've got that backwards... The 86-87 6 banger was the better of the two... The 5 banger was the junk that ate up timing chains after 100K.. 6 is better in every way, gas mileage, power, reliability.
The 90-91 cars has a problem that was traced back to the foundry where the blocks were cast. Not MB's fault. The revised ones, some say, were better than any other ever made.
The 90-91 cars has a problem that was traced back to the foundry where the blocks were cast. Not MB's fault. The revised ones, some say, were better than any other ever made.
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1982 300D VNT, 1980 240D 3.0T, 1982 300TD
As for the ADA or ALDA or whatever you want to call it. To quote the MB 602,603 Dieisel Engines Service Manual page 07.1.10 -010/16 to 17. I'd quote the whole thing but don't type that well "... if the aneroid boxes expand, the control rod is pulled in the direction of "stop" and the the delivery volume is reduced; if the altitude decreases, the control rod is moved into the the direction of "additional volume", resulting in an increase of the delivery volume." (More volume of fuel is a richer fuel/air mixture for those of us who are mentally challanged). What this does is move the rack in the pump further in so you get more fuel when you put your foot down, that is why if you do this the engine runs rich enough to put out smoke.
MB in their ultimate stupidity saw fit to limit the boost to this pressure in order to prevent MECHANICAL DAMAGE.
Of course, you can take the advice of someone who has built and tuned his own 700hp street/drag car
Which makes less hp and gets worse gas mileage MODIFIED than my wife's stock Hyundai..
Thank you for further demonstrating your ignorance of Mercedes' Diesels. Stick with your Korean engines.
The 90-91 cars has a problem that was traced back to the foundry where the blocks were cast.