2011 ML350 BlueTech sludge??
The issue is more about oil dilution with fuel and filters don't address that .
VW says to watch for an increase in oil level, so I am doing that, but being as my GL leaks/burns a little between changes unless it is significant, it will be hard to tell.
I am just going to stick with 10K changes for now, and buy as much fuel out of state as I can.
Given the mileage we get and the tank size, I bet more then 1/2 the fill-ups are out of state.
The MB service advisor said he has not seen any problems with well maintained diesels, but has seen some where people start getting lazy about "normal" maintenance.




http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...61725948,d.aWc
Last edited by N_Jay; Feb 21, 2014 at 02:06 PM.
MBUSA's "policy" to replace the entire system at owner's expense is a gold mine for all of the dealerships. It is a common problem for all diesels to attract water condensation and occasionally an algae/sludge build up. That's the reason for a water separator in all diesel trucks. Yet you dont see truckers replacing their entire fuel systems. This is a big scam and I filed a complaint with NHTSA and the FTC regarding MB fuel pump failure and the Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel fuel here in the USA. Water and algae/sludge is the nature of the diesel beast and it is ripping off the consumer to replace the entire system.
Last edited by drgeeforce; Feb 21, 2014 at 06:12 PM. Reason: grammar




What type did you use?
Where did you mount it?
Did you run into any issues?
Being as my goal is to get my GL over 200K miles (Bought a year ago at 96K, at 112K now) I figure I will be adding a few life extending accessories.
I bought my ML320CDI new April 2007, in Illinois. Had to teach the dealers about Mobil1 ESP 5W 40, Formula M (FYI, the M stands for Mercedes according to Mobil). They had no idea what 229.51 spec was, or where to buy it. I found one dealer far away that had it in drums, and was happy to show me the supply drum and paperwork to support. They did the oil changes till I was able to get it on line and do myself.
The vehicle now has 140000 miles. I have NEVER had a sludge, or fuel related issue.
My DIY formula:
1) Change my oil every 5000 miles, with a filter from the dealer. Always the ESP 5W 40 Formula M from Mobil1
2) Fuel filter every 20000 miles.
3) Air Filters every 20000 miles.
Also I have used bio fuels from 0% to 50% and the vehicle couldn't care less. Typically, I run the B11 that I buy here in IL, and that has been the main fuel for the vehicle for about 125000 miles.
For those with sludge issues, many dealers DO NOT use the proper oil. Ask them to show you what oil they use and be prepared to be amazed.
I was at a local dealer 2 weeks ago and saw parts had a few cases of the ESP oil, so I said to the parts guy, "Wow, this is the first time I noticed you are carrying the right oil for the diesels". His reply, "Oh, that's the oil for the 2013 and newer Blutecs, the older ones like yours run the regular 0W 40 oils" At that point I just got my parts and left. 7 years later and still ignorance...
I suspect this is the issue people are running into. Those non spec oils just cannot handle the EGR loads and produces a lot more contaminates in the high compression turbo diesel environment.
What type did you use?
Where did you mount it?
Did you run into any issues?
Being as my goal is to get my GL over 200K miles (Bought a year ago at 96K, at 112K now) I figure I will be adding a few life extending accessories.
Last edited by drgeeforce; Feb 22, 2014 at 03:28 PM.
The Rest Of World seems to have the Bio % , water problems & MB Dealer problems sorted out.
We have strict fuel regulations her in Australia. I have owned a diesel since 1994 & never had any fuel problems & all the specified MB oils are always available.
How can the US problems be sorted out?
The Rest Of World seems to have the Bio % , water problems & MB Dealer problems sorted out.
We have strict fuel regulations her in Australia. I have owned a diesel since 1994 & never had any fuel problems & all the specified MB oils are always available.
How can the US problems be sorted out?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




http://www.mbdirectparts.com/
There is more, but this one had the best communication.
The website search engine did not work for me. What I did was googling part number and then their site had it.
Because of how MBUSA mistreated me (and didn't acknowledge any accountability), I plan to never again drive a Mercedes.
Engine oil failure caused by fuel dilution is a known problem in the diesel engine industry. Telltale sign: engine oil level rises because diesel fuel adds to the volume. The fuel causes a drop in viscosity allowing engine oil to bake due to the loss of shear stability. This adds to the gunk with algae and wax. Since diesel is hydrophilic, water adds to the gunk. The gunk takes away the lubricating film which leads to higher friction/heat. Engine failure/seizure is the end result.
http://machinerylubrication.com/Read...l-contaminants
How often (miles-time) have you been changing the oil?
What grade & brand of oil is used?
What fuel do you use ?
Long or short trips ?.
Who has been servicing the car?
Miles on car?
Any problems with cooler seals?
Good luck with MB.
JC
This has problably been posted before but here you go.
http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
This has problably been posted before but here you go.
http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/
and i am ditching the bottom/top engine covers, 6000 mile oil changes and flushes every oil change.
mercedes "aint what they use to be"
my 84 300sd had over 300,000 miles when i got rid of it and it still ran great
and i am ditching the bottom/top engine covers, 6000 mile oil changes and flushes every oil change.
mercedes "aint what they use to be"
my 84 300sd had over 300,000 miles when i got rid of it and it still ran great




