N_Jay

I don't see how oil filter changes help.
The issue is more about oil dilution with fuel and filters don't address that .
VW says to watch for an increase in oil level, so I am doing that, but being as my GL leaks/burns a little between changes unless it is significant, it will be hard to tell.
I am just going to stick with 10K changes for now, and buy as much fuel out of state as I can.
Given the mileage we get and the tank size, I bet more than 1/2 the fill-ups are out of state.


The MB service advisor said he has not seen any problems with well maintained diesels, but has seen some where people start getting lazy about "normal" maintenance.


EDIT:
AND!!!! I avoid short trips all I can. The E is getting all the Costco runs!

sbailey48

I'm just reporting on what the article said. Can't prove anything about the filter changes. Changing the oil more often gets cost prohibitive with the Mobil 1 M. I believe there was a tv report on this as well as it was news that MB and VW were going to end their prohibition of shipping new diesels to Ill. That's ridiculous that the state mandates bio diesel just so some cronies can get rich. One good thing in your favor is that bio diesel is very lubricating to your fuel pumps and injectors.

N_Jay

VW and Audi went first, I think BMW followed, and FINALLY MB come in with a rather weak statement.


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...61725948,d.aWc

drgeeforce

In 2012 I purchased a 2010 CPO GL350 BTC with 29K mi. After two months of local driving car would not start. cause was clogged fuel filter and failed low side pump. Replaced both and 19K mi later again car failed to start. this time clogged filter, failed low side pump, but get this, dealer blames me for "metal particles" contaminating the entire fuel system. I ask how is it possible with a filter between the tank and the high pressure fuel pump? Dealer then says the fuel pump may have seized from bad fuel causing metal particles to spread throughout the entire system. I call him out on his "theory/explanation" saying fuel pump fins are made of HDPE plastic not metal. Then dealer says it "MBUSA policy" to replace entire system if ANY contamination is present. Insurance adjuster agrees to my claim but never found any metal, just extensive sludge on the low side, never found any sludge on the high pressure pump or common rail.

MBUSA's "policy" to replace the entire system at owner's expense is a gold mine for all of the dealerships. It is a common problem for all diesels to attract water condensation and occasionally an algae/sludge build up. That's the reason for a water separator in all diesel trucks. Yet you dont see truckers replacing their entire fuel systems. This is a big scam and I filed a complaint with NHTSA and the FTC regarding MB fuel pump failure and the Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel fuel here in the USA. Water and algae/sludge is the nature of the diesel beast and it is ripping off the consumer to replace the entire system.

N_Jay

I saw on another thread you mounted a filter water separator.
What type did you use?
Where did you mount it?
Did you run into any issues?
Being as my goal is to get my GL over 200K miles (Bought a year ago at 96K, at 112K now) I figure I will be adding a few life extending accessories.

dgiturbo

Here is some guidance that may help others.

I bought my ML320CDI new April 2007, in Illinois. Had to teach the dealers about Mobil1 ESP 5W 40, Formula M (FYI, the M stands for Mercedes according to Mobil). They had no idea what 229.51 spec was, or where to buy it. I found one dealer far away that had it in drums, and was happy to show me the supply drum and paperwork to support. They did the oil changes till I was able to get it on line and do myself.
The vehicle now has 140000 miles. I have NEVER had a sludge, or fuel related issue.

My DIY formula:
1) Change my oil every 5000 miles, with a filter from the dealer. Always the ESP 5W 40 Formula M from Mobil1
2) Fuel filter every 20000 miles.
3) Air Filters every 20000 miles.

Also I have used bio fuels from 0% to 50% and the vehicle couldn't care less. Typically, I run the B11 that I buy here in IL, and that has been the main fuel for the vehicle for about 125000 miles.

For those with sludge issues, many dealers DO NOT use the proper oil. Ask them to show you what oil they use and be prepared to be amazed.
I was at a local dealer 2 weeks ago and saw parts had a few cases of the ESP oil, so I said to the parts guy, "Wow, this is the first time I noticed you are carrying the right oil for the diesels". His reply, "Oh, that's the oil for the 2013 and newer Blutecs, the older ones like yours run the regular 0W 40 oils" At that point I just got my parts and left. 7 years later and still ignorance...

I suspect this is the issue people are running into. Those non spec oils just cannot handle the EGR loads and produces a lot more contaminates in the high compression turbo diesel environment.

drgeeforce

I just bought a Racor 2 micron water separator mounted it on the right firewall but didn't hook it up when the fuel system failed. But with a completely new system, it's going to be the first thing I do plus I'm going to de-water my diesel with a column. Looking at all of the posts here and at other TDI forums, it seems water is a problem here in the West Coast.

Carsy

Sorry to hear about the troubles owning a diesel car in the US.

The Rest Of World seems to have the Bio % , water problems & MB Dealer problems sorted out.

We have strict fuel regulations her in Australia. I have owned a diesel since 1994 & never had any fuel problems & all the specified MB oils are always available.

How can the US problems be sorted out?

drgeeforce

You don't have as much corruption in government as we do. We have all sorts of regulations and requirements made by lobbyists and our "elected" and appointed officials rubberstamp all of it for a price.

ImInPA

I have been driving diesels in the US since the early 90's. I have never had a fuel related issue. The handful of reports do not scare me. It is likely it was poor service related, whether it was the dealer's poor service, or, the owner's neglect. There are just too many of these engines running in the US without these issues.

krd2023

Regarding Bluetecs, correct oil and change intervals, and the OM642 diesel engine, has anyone here experienced catastrophic engine failure as I and others have? If so, please provide input in my thread here, https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...tml?styleid=19 , as we're currently compiling data of those with similar occurrences. Thank you!

Messerchmidt

the mobil1 esp 5w30 seemed to sludge. something the esp 5w40 did not.

switched to liquimoly 4605. no more sludge issues.

Glyn M Ruck

See other thread!

zafarmd

so now where should the Diesel fuel filter be bought Dealership only OR which online store would you recommend.
BTW is Fleece filter for oil filters the recommended one ?

kajtek1

This is MB dealer offering special internet prices
http://www.mbdirectparts.com/
There is more, but this one had the best communication.
The website search engine did not work for me. What I did was googling part number and then their site had it.

samaritrey

I buy my mann filters from amazon or if i am placing a parts order from one of my go to Mercedes parts stores i throw a few in. (Pelicanparts, rmeuropean, ect...)

djrt

When will there be a class action lawsuit for this? Mercedes clearly is not recommending the correct oil for this car. Pulled the oil pan off mine after the engine seized and look what i found!

krd2023

I don't have an answer to your question about any class action status, and unfortunately, your oil sludge bears much resemblance to mine as noted in my thread here: https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...tml?styleid=19

Because of how MBUSA mistreated me (and didn't acknowledge any accountability), I plan to never again drive a Mercedes.

drgeeforce

DJRT I have seen that "sludge" before. It is not what you think it is. It is diesel fuel contaminating the engine oil. That thick sludge is a combination of water, wax, and algae. When diesel fuel gets past the cylinder rings, it mixes with engine oil and causes the same problems found in diesel fuel tanks.
Engine oil failure caused by fuel dilution is a known problem in the diesel engine industry. Telltale sign: engine oil level rises because diesel fuel adds to the volume. The fuel causes a drop in viscosity allowing engine oil to bake due to the loss of shear stability. This adds to the gunk with algae and wax. Since diesel is hydrophilic, water adds to the gunk. The gunk takes away the lubricating film which leads to higher friction/heat. Engine failure/seizure is the end result.

http://machinerylubrication.com/Read...l-contaminants

Carsy

Interested to know the circumstances to try to find a reason:-

How often (miles-time) have you been changing the oil?

What grade & brand of oil is used?

What fuel do you use ?

Long or short trips ?.

Who has been servicing the car?

Miles on car?

Any problems with cooler seals?

Good luck with MB.

JC

nookie

Thats why some mechanics recommend 60 weight oil in these engines!.

This has problably been posted before but here you go.

http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/

mbdiesel12

Before you potentially cause bearing/journal failure by using thicker than MB recommended oil you might want to read this oil tech article. Thicker oil doesn't equate to more lubrication. It does equate to less oil flow and possibly higher oil temps and bearing wear in engines not designed for it.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

fireman1073

i am going to amsoil 5w40 and its not mercedes 229.52 spec but it is a top quality engine oil for diesels with great protection.

and i am ditching the bottom/top engine covers, 6000 mile oil changes and flushes every oil change.

mercedes "aint what they use to be"

my 84 300sd had over 300,000 miles when i got rid of it and it still ran great

nookie

Same here, sticking with a low ash 40 weight oil.
Wish the guys the GDE engineering would dive into this engine to dial out the EGR for starters.

Carsy

Why take the risk & use non MB spec when the ratblog list ( above) gives MB spec oils that perform very well ? .Does the Amsoil protect your cats & DPF?