2007 ML 320 CDI, no start
A month prior it would not start for her. I drove to it and gave it a jump and it started right up.
New battery in the last month.
2/3rd's tank of fuel. So same fuel the last few cold days.
We had it towed home to my heated garage ( about 45 degrees ).
It would not start after sitting overnight, so I don't think the fuel was jelled.
The fuel pump is humming.
Fuel is coming out the line after the filter.
No CEL or codes.
We left town for a week. Still no start when we returned.
After some research, I ordered a crank position sensor yesterday.
Today it started.
Can a crank position sensor be an intermittent problem?
Any other ideas?
I am leary of driving it until I know what the problem is.
Last edited by GregMN; Jan 15, 2015 at 12:15 PM.
I would be happy if it was jelled fuel. The only thing I did after I returned from my trip was to remove the fuel line, after the filter, to confirm fuel flow to the high pressure pump. The next day it started.
It seems as though something shut off the injectors and now they are back on.
At least it didn't happen at a rest stop out in the middle of nowhere NM.
For $36 I have a CPS coming. If it happens again I will check for a signal.
I think that I own over 1/2 of the MB's in the county. The nearest dealer is about 200 miles away.
When running the starter, the pressure is around 2000psi.
I unplugged the electrical connection and then plugged it back in.
When I ran the starter, the pressure initially spiked to 6000psi then dropped back to about 2000psi.
I used a heat gun to warm up the valve end of the fuel rail.
I unplugged the electrical connection and then plugged it back in.
When I ran the starter, the pressure initially spiked to 9000psi then dropped back to about 2000psi.
The spikes show up on the gauge for much less than a second. Not long enough for a cylinder to fire.
I seems like the pressure relief valve is not available separate from the fuel rail.
Has anyone ever heard of a pressure relief valve going bad on a cdi ?

Fuel Quantity control valve (located in hp-pump flange) is also controlling fuel pressure, I've read they have failed more often. Then leak in any place of the fuel system (injectors, hp pump) cause pressure drop during the cranking, but I think it would not even give pressure peak then...
Good luck!
When I unplugged the power to the pressure relief valve on the fuel rail, the pressure stayed at 64psi. (I think that 64psi is the at rest pressure reading for the sending unit.)
I am thinking that it is the valve on the high pressure pump. I unplugged the power to it and there was no difference in rail pressure (2000psi +/-).
Last edited by GregMN; Feb 6, 2015 at 01:05 PM.
The o-rings looked fine.
I squirted some WD-40 into the valve.
I jumped power to the valve. on/off, on/off many times.
More WD-40, more on/off cycles.
I reinstalled the valve.
After a few attempts, that cleared the air out of the pump, it started.
When the fuel pressure got over about 2700psi, it started.
Fuel pressure at idle is around 3000psi
Fuel pressure at high rpm, no load, is around 13,000psi.
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I had the car at a MB dealership for diagnosis. They could not find the problem. To be fair, the car would always eventually restart for them in the shop. It is a 3 hour drive, so the car was fully warmed up and the shop is warm. It was driven right into the shop when I got there for my appointment, so it never cooled down. I drove the car home and it would not start the next morning, just like before.
I finally pulled the injector return lines and installed a 6" piece of clear tubing on all of them. During the start attempts, only the faulty injector's tube had fuel in it. It never triggered a fault code.
Last edited by GregMN; May 4, 2015 at 05:09 PM.
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