Where did all that CARBON come from????

In my post "Engine running rough and no one knows why". I told the sad tale of my problem with a 2010 ML350 Bluetec with 96,000 miles. No compression in #3 cylinder and low on #2.
Here is my background first. I drive mainly on road trips and I am not an aggressive driver. I service the vehicle according to schedules and change the oil at around 5,000 miles. I just spent more fixing this problem than I did when I bought my first MB Diesel new. (see the first post)
I have never seen this much carbon in an intake and cylinder heads. I know how and where to buy diesel. I do not buy bio diesel.
My question is this what is causing this and is this common? Would a fuel additive help and if so which one. (I don't currently use one). I am seriously considering getting rid of this vehicle and Mercedes if this is common. If I can't find an answer it will be goodbye.
I appreciate any and all comments. Thanks
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
Just before I bought my Sprinter 3.0CDI the owner had to replace intake manifolds ($3000) due to the swirl valves seize up. I took the old manifolds with butterflies from him and it was all gunked up pretty bad. Took me a few hours to clean it and the butterflies remained seized. Kept it for my removal project. I'm in tuning/remapping business so I can confirm the huge benefits of turning off the EGR plus nice tune. Saving big in repairs, fuel, better response and driveability and extended oil change intervals with good synthetic oil due to less DPF regenerations- less oil contamination. These engines have a great potential, they're just tuned down way too much from the assembly line.
So it depends on the substantial reduction meaning, is it 10% or 50%?
I see it more like a partial solution.
I'm using Amsoil injector cleaner every other tank and thinking about trying their cetane boost.
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Question is, where is the best information on how to clean the intake, EGR valve, and any sensors that may be clogged or dirty. I intend to keep this car for a long time, so knowing how to clean this emission mess is important.
Thanks
You can purchase a spray can for diesel cleaning, where you remove the hose (before the intake) and while engine running spay short bursts of cleaner in. Never done it and doubt it's effective for CDI intakes. It's somewhat dangerous if you spray more then recommended.
Another way is removing EGR and cleaning it manually , it's fast, but it will not clean the Intake butterlies.
To remove the intakes for cleaning, roughly 10 hour job. Might be less for someone experienced.
So disabling EGR and even hookup oil catch can/separator is the best solution. Unfortunately tempting with emission devices is not legal on the highways.

Thoughts?
Does anyone make a reliable tune/tuner and hardware for EGR delete? I have a 2009 R320 Bluetec and I am having problems that are likely caused by or exaggerated by these emission systems.
Are there any shops that someone can recommend in Southern California that have experience with cleaning the intake. At 112,000 miles I would be more than willing to pay $500 for a good clean, and then do spot cleaning myself.
Thanks
Does anyone make a reliable tune/tuner and hardware for EGR delete? I have a 2009 R320 Bluetec and I am having problems that are likely caused by or exaggerated by these emission systems.
Are there any shops that someone can recommend in Southern California that have experience with cleaning the intake. At 112,000 miles I would be more than willing to pay $500 for a good clean, and then do spot cleaning myself.
Thanks
they reprogram your ecu with a tool they send you to disable swirl flaps and egr plus more power and torque.
*******.com is a software site where some there will disable dpf and adblue for a price.
they reprogram your ecu with a tool they send you to disable swirl flaps and egr plus more power and torque.
*******.com is a software site where some there will disable dpf and adblue for a price.
I need to pull the turbo and clean it. It's sticking and causing underboost LHM.
If I keep the car I do want to do EGR and some more power. I'm not really that interested in eliminating all the emissions.
At this point between a coolant system flush when I first bought the car in 2015, the radiator hose, the new radiator, and the EGR coolant line this engine has been flushed and refilled with good new coolant 4 times in 13 months. UGH.
Thoughts?
I hope it's safe with dpf and scr.
I will post when I do it
Steve


