Which diesel would be the best commute/performance
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,021
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From: Fort Worth, TX
2011 GL550, 2004 Audi S4 v8
Which diesel would be the best commute/performance
I'm trying to stay under $5k for the cost of the actual car, but I'm looking for something that I could have fun in and upgrade later to make decent car.
I have a Ford F-350 powerstroke that I absolutely love, but it is too big and it is no longer smart to have. So I'm about to list it for sale. I love having a diesel. My main concern is being able to make it go faster. The F350 is easy to, but I never got the chance. Since I need a car I thought I would start researching say a W123,124 or 210 diesel since I love Mercedes!
I understand the newer it is the "better" it might be, but I'm looking for the fun factor. I want to be able to get it in and go and not worry about if it will start or not. I want to be able to make it go faster, and change out suspension to make it handle great.
I've had 2 W210 E55s so I'm very familiar with the chassis, but I'm not looking for this car to be just like it. I know that wouldn't make much sense.
I've been researching a lot lately, but I'd like to hear what you all might say to my specific requirements. Reliability is very very important. MPG is not. I'm sure the 3 chassis mentioned above very a little which is fine, I just need it to be reliable. Thanks!
I have a Ford F-350 powerstroke that I absolutely love, but it is too big and it is no longer smart to have. So I'm about to list it for sale. I love having a diesel. My main concern is being able to make it go faster. The F350 is easy to, but I never got the chance. Since I need a car I thought I would start researching say a W123,124 or 210 diesel since I love Mercedes!
I understand the newer it is the "better" it might be, but I'm looking for the fun factor. I want to be able to get it in and go and not worry about if it will start or not. I want to be able to make it go faster, and change out suspension to make it handle great.
I've had 2 W210 E55s so I'm very familiar with the chassis, but I'm not looking for this car to be just like it. I know that wouldn't make much sense.
I've been researching a lot lately, but I'd like to hear what you all might say to my specific requirements. Reliability is very very important. MPG is not. I'm sure the 3 chassis mentioned above very a little which is fine, I just need it to be reliable. Thanks!
Last edited by xlr8tin; Feb 7, 2016 at 01:59 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
Generally speaking, conventional diesels are more reliable than common rail (CDIs) diesels. Conventional diesel: change the air filters and oil regularly, and drive for a million miles. They are going to be more laggy and less fuel efficient, but that's the trade off.
The injectors in common rail systems enable much greater performance and efficiency, but they in and of themselves become the Achilles heal - very expensive components and are subject to a short lifespan.
The injectors in common rail systems enable much greater performance and efficiency, but they in and of themselves become the Achilles heal - very expensive components and are subject to a short lifespan.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,021
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From: Fort Worth, TX
2011 GL550, 2004 Audi S4 v8
So by more conventional you mean the older ones, and by common rail would be the newer ones?
And so the newer common rail ones are better for performance, but less reliable?
Is there a happy medium? More specifically which year and model would be a good one to look for? I'm sure there has to be a decent one that may have a little of everything?
And so the newer common rail ones are better for performance, but less reliable?
Is there a happy medium? More specifically which year and model would be a good one to look for? I'm sure there has to be a decent one that may have a little of everything?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
Conventional meaning, mechanical injection pump. But more less older vs newer. I really liked the w124's. I had two one gas and one diesel with the inline 3.0L 6 cyl turbo.
My diesel (300D) was very well equipped and very reliable. Just make sure you get the transmission fluid changed right away.
My diesel (300D) was very well equipped and very reliable. Just make sure you get the transmission fluid changed right away.
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
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MB SLK W170, E-Class W210, E-Class W211
I have the same question. My wife totaled my W211 V6 and we need another car. I am considering Diesel due to it's MPG and my impression that it runs 200+kmiles - if it runs that long then it must be reliable!!
I was considering buying W211 with OM642. I reached my car shop for opinion and the owner warned me that MB diesel is total junk. It breaks much more often than gasoline engine and I should remove this word "diesel" from my brain if I don't want to commit myself to visit the car shop every so often for repair. He looked very serious.
I am sure someone in diesel forum would tell me a totally different, yet true story that his MB diesel is rock solid.
Is there any published data that compares the long-term reliability of MB diesel vs gasoline engine, preferably M272 vs OM642?
I was considering buying W211 with OM642. I reached my car shop for opinion and the owner warned me that MB diesel is total junk. It breaks much more often than gasoline engine and I should remove this word "diesel" from my brain if I don't want to commit myself to visit the car shop every so often for repair. He looked very serious.
I am sure someone in diesel forum would tell me a totally different, yet true story that his MB diesel is rock solid.
Is there any published data that compares the long-term reliability of MB diesel vs gasoline engine, preferably M272 vs OM642?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
I have an R-class with the OM642 and I'm quite happy with it. Most issues (i.e. mfg defects) will be encountered under 100,000kms (62,000 miles) and therefore with have already been repaired. CDI's have potential issues associated with the EGR, but this can be turned off, and Bluetec's seem to have issues with the adblue pump/heater.
Both will encounter injector leaks eventually, which often will require replacement of the injector or seal. These are a maintenance item and cost cost more or less depending on part source and mechanic. Seals cost a couple dollars; injectors can be purchased for under $200 but from the dealer will be $500 to $1000.
The M272 has an actuator lever on the intake that fails, which can be fixed permanently and cost effective with an aftermarket replacement, but the dealer and most indies will require full replacement of the intake manifold which is very expensive.
Both will encounter injector leaks eventually, which often will require replacement of the injector or seal. These are a maintenance item and cost cost more or less depending on part source and mechanic. Seals cost a couple dollars; injectors can be purchased for under $200 but from the dealer will be $500 to $1000.
The M272 has an actuator lever on the intake that fails, which can be fixed permanently and cost effective with an aftermarket replacement, but the dealer and most indies will require full replacement of the intake manifold which is very expensive.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 422
Likes: 52
From: McDade, Texas
W211 e320 CDI
I'll throw a vote in for the middle ground, W211 with OM648 inline six CDI. I'm at 169k miles now, drive about 750 miles per week, I'm not running a stock car, no cat, mufflers, EGR, swirl valves...but it's been a very good car for me so far. I'm sure I'll have to buy injectors eventually but with my current 4 cents per mile running costs on fuel...well when it happens it happens, replacement injectors will not be stock stuff either, will upgrade.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 422
Likes: 52
From: McDade, Texas
W211 e320 CDI
Obviously this W211/OM648 is treating me pretty well, since I'm commuting a little over 20 gallons a week worth of driving the miles are adding up fast. Pic was a couple days ago, I try to get little milestones like this at least on phone camera. I should probably change the oil and all filters pretty soon, it's been 10k miles since mid December after all.
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Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 2
From: Weston, Florida
2014 GL350BT
I have a 2010 BMW 335D, now with 103k miles, and still love it. Great power, unequalled torque, mpg is good enough averaging around 30mpg on my typical commute to/from downtown Miami and all its traffic.
My wife has the 2014 GL350 BT and we really just love that car. Very refined, 600 miles per tank on road trips and hasn't given one bit of trouble to date, now at 33k miles.
I'm seriously considering a E250 BT, perhaps a 2014 or 15 with low miles or wait for the new C300D due out later this year, I hope.
You gotta love diesel for what they are, high torque great highway cruisers, good mpg. Your wife will dread ever having to fill it up at a diesel pump which is one reason I think they sell so few of them.
MB knows diesels.
My wife has the 2014 GL350 BT and we really just love that car. Very refined, 600 miles per tank on road trips and hasn't given one bit of trouble to date, now at 33k miles.
I'm seriously considering a E250 BT, perhaps a 2014 or 15 with low miles or wait for the new C300D due out later this year, I hope.
You gotta love diesel for what they are, high torque great highway cruisers, good mpg. Your wife will dread ever having to fill it up at a diesel pump which is one reason I think they sell so few of them.
MB knows diesels.
Last edited by Flyingman; Apr 23, 2016 at 11:44 AM.
