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Currently have a 2010 GL 350 and might get something newer. I know all the issues with the 6 cylinder with oil cooler gaskets, timing chains etc but wanted to know the issues if any on the newer 4 cyl.
I would like to hear from the new 4 cylinder Diesel owners also.
My 2008 E320 3.0 V6 BlueTec has just over 150,000 miles and so far the engine has been totally trouble free.
The timing chain issue may have been more common in some of the newer engines, but I am keeping an eye on the oil iron level etc. during each oil change, as well as timing chain tensioner position through the oil fill opening - so far so good!
Based on my observations so far I will change the engine oil at least every 7000 miles.
I have E250 Bluetec with 170k miles and it performs excelent.
Don't know much about history, but doesn't look like engine was much worked on.
Can someone run MI for me? That I could share later?
Read about 2.1 diesels on Polish forum and they can be easy tuned to 265 HP.
W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 M113k, W126 M117, W126 OM617, W211 OM642 ; R107 M117 X2, Sierra 1500 LZ0
Originally Posted by kajtek1
I have E250 Bluetec with 170k miles and it performs excelent.
Don't know much about history, but doesn't look like engine was much worked on.
Can someone run MI for me? That I could share later?
Read about 2.1 diesels on Polish forum and they can be easy tuned to 265 HP.
Any options in the states to tune them up like that? Hard to even get the original version of the OM642 to that point without hardware changes.
From what I could check - European engines are tuned at higher HP at the factory due to better fuel they have to start with.
Then the environmental laws are different, so the same MY are quite different animals at different destinations.
I never was for chipping perfectly good engines, but even if you buy European tune for US models, how do you know the outcome?
I've been very happy with my E250 so far. 38K miles in the first 16 months of ownership. I'm changing the oil at a 5K interval, and may look at going to a heavier (non-MB Spec) oil once the car is out of warranty. I had to argue with the dealer to get them to change the oil ("it's not due yet"...).
These cars are designed to run very hot -- and once they are hot they stay hot. I'm concerned long term with the amount of heat and the unintended consequences in the engine bay. I'd prefer to have my car run a little cooler even at the expense of efficiency although I don't know how to accomplish this.
The E250 gets crazy fuel economy. I drove from NYC area to Pittsburgh to Washington DC and almost made it back to NYC on a single tank of fuel. I also left NYC area and drove to Savannah, GA on a single tank. If I was willing to push it a little, I probably could have driven into northern Florida. I don't believe there is another car on the road that can do that.
I've been very happy with my E250 so far. 38K miles in the first 16 months of ownership. I'm changing the oil at a 5K interval, and may look at going to a heavier (non-MB Spec) oil once the car is out of warranty.......
.........The E250 gets crazy fuel economy. /
Glad you like the car. I am considering one of those in few years due to hopefully easier to work on I-4 engine, but on the other hand, the twin turbo setup may make it pretty complicated also?
I think you still want to use synthetic & low ash etc. engine oil which is compatible with the DPF in the exhaust system of the car. That would mean M-B approval oil I think?
The fuel mileage sounds really good but how many mpg does that translate to?
MB turbos are famous for long-lasting, so I would not worry about it too much, but what I just experienced, MB incorporated software in W212 that each sensor replacement require SCN coding, so puts you at dealer's mercy.
I just have my car at dealer for Ox sensor replacement. Their estimate was $1100, but I saved $300 buying the sensor from net dealer . On older car you can DIY the sensor for about $50.
BTW there is movement to stop manufactures gouging http://repair.org/stand-up/
The fuel mileage sounds really good but how many mpg does that translate to?
The E250 gets different fuel economy depending on your speed. At 50 mph on a country road, you can routinely get in the 50's mpg. If it's flat and uninterrupted, 55mpg is realistic.
That drops to the mid/low 40's mpg on the highway as you speed gets to the high end of Interstate speeds.
I have a log book, and I've averaged in the high 30's overall in my mix of highway and city (more highway than not). I've had many full tanks where my average was in the low 40's (mix of highway and city).
MB turbos are famous for long-lasting, so I would not worry about it too much, but what I just experienced, MB incorporated software in W212 that each sensor replacement require SCN coding, so puts you at dealer's mercy.
I just have my car at dealer for Ox sensor replacement. Their estimate was $1100, but I saved $300 buying the sensor from net dealer . On older car you can DIY the sensor for about $50.
BTW there is movement to stop manufactures gouging http://repair.org/stand-up/
Old diesels were famous for lasting forever. The new ones are an unknown. Candidly, I have no expectation that this car has an engine that will last 300-500K miles. I wouldn't complain if I get to 150-160K with 5K oil changes.
I wouldn't complain if I get to 150-160K with 5K oil changes.
/
My E250 already pass 170k mark and seem engine runs perfect, as long as sensors work.
Doubt it was babied in original Limo Service.
I did not drive it much yet, but I am recording 40 mpg on Las Vegas traffic, what is about 40% streets and 60% crazy freeways.
Took 570 miles trip yesterday, playing with some speeds.
At 50 mph the car tend to stay on 6th gear although I could force it manually to 7th and at 1200 rpm the engine still pulls. Short test recorded over 60mpg at that speed.
Averaged close to 40 mpg on whole trip and here you see the results of going from one side of Sierra to other. Mountain driving with drop in elevation.
Right. The MPG is great. I researched a lot of vehicles before we bought our E250 4matic. My daily commute is 64 miles round trip and I wanted something that got decent MPG and I gravitated to this car. Yes, at the time the E Class came with a 21.5(?) gallon tank and other than trucks I think was the largest fuel tank on any family sedan in North America. We did Cheyenne to Denver and got 51MPG, a 20 mph tailwind helped with that though. Denver to KC was one tank and still allowed for two days to commute to work. Below is a sample of my typical long-distance highway MPG either alone or with the family of four.
Old diesels were famous for lasting forever. The new ones are an unknown. Candidly, I have no expectation that this car has an engine that will last 300-500K miles. I wouldn't complain if I get to 150-160K with 5K oil changes.
/
The engines last forever, however, their turbos didn't. New intercooled turbos are a different story, they should last as long as the rest of the engine.
To add some confusion - the intercooler on my Powerstroke is liquid-cooled.
Even with my experience I had to ask Ford forum what ha hack is that thing under the hood.
Mb uses liquid coolers too, they are garret turbos made in USA. The intercooler maintains the charge air at a constant temp. This the turbo at a constant temp rather than frying at high boost since the same coolant flows around the turbine portion. Think of it like old air cooled VWs and new water cooled ones. In old turbos the main issue was bearing failure, remember the scroll turns at 150k rpms!
I think I get it now. Because there is a single cooling system that cools both the intercooler and the turbo that means the turbo is 'intercooled'. Who knew?
It is called "inter" becouse it is between turbo and the engine.
Turbo normally does not need cooling other than oil flow on the bearing.
It would take quite a radiator to cool the exhaust.
This is my wife drive from Las Vegas to San Francisco area. Not easy drive as lot of elevations and lot of crazy drivers. Hand calculation come to 42 mpg, so about 6% less. Still not bad.
To top it, the DPF code keeps coming back, what likely affects mpg as well. I bought DPF cleaner+purge and plan to do the cleaning in couple of weeks.
I average closer to 80 mph, but with toll on mpg.
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