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OK, wondering if anyone performing DIY oil changes on this car can help with these questions. So far have not found all the answers via monitoring various forums and threads.
I am a recent new MB owner... picked up a CPO 2016 E250 Bluetec Diesel 4-matic in the summer, and am thinking about going back to doing my own oil changes.. mainly so that I know it is done with the right oil and right filter filter. Planning to use Liqu Moly and Mann filters. In any case, the old school guy in me prefers the conventional drain method, but access to the pan drain plug is a pain. Even with ramps, dropping the belly pans, with the car on ramps, it is no longer level. So am considering getting an extractor.
Do you guys that do a DIY oil change conventionally in your home garage, put the car on 4 jack stands to keep it level for the draining? Or is the drain plug at the rear of the oil pan on this bluetec diesel, making the angle on ramps a non issue?? I was able to get the pic below from my dealership parts guy, and it suggests (and so did he) that the drain plug is on the drivers side, but center (between front/back) on the pan, which would seem to indicate to me that driving the front up on ramps to drain via the plug would tend to trap some oil ( 1/2 liter maybe) in the pan due to the angle and the fact that he drain plug is not at the rear of the pan.
Now, getting the car on ramps in the first place with the low front spoiler would seem a challenge in itself.. probably need some boards in front of the ramp to help with the process - any suggestions here?
I thought that the dealer extraction process (vaccum seal on the dipstick tube vs tube inserted into the dispstick to the bottom of the pan) was based on a "dealer quality commercial extractor" that I assumed created enough vaccum in the crankcase to draw out the oil?? In reading this thread, it sounds like it is simply using the fact that the dipstick tube goes down to the bottom of the pan. Can anyone confirm that is the case on my 2.1L bluetec engine (M651)??
Since I also have a 4-matic does it pose the same challenge with the front axle and the oil pan, thereby preventing a good drain using the extraction method? Can anyone comment on this based on the 2.1L bluetec diesel engine? From the pic below, it looks like the front axle may indeed pas through the pan - the large round opening above the drain plug.
I use a Mity Vac extractor to change the oil in my 2014 E250. The extractor has a scale so I can see the amount of oil extracted, because I know the car oil capacity I know when all the oil has been extracted.
Works great.
Very easy to change oil from the top. I use Liqui Moly Top Tec ( 5w30 229.52 spec oil).
If I used the oil extraction method unilaterally on all my vehicles, I never would have found that piece of plastic off the cam chain guide on our Beemer.
I know that draining the oil is a royal PITA on my ML, I can imagine what it must be like on a lower car.
On my truck, I trimmed out the belly pan to allow me to get to the plug. I also carved out a small path to accommodate the trajectory of the oil when I first remove the plug.
I no longer have to jack the truck up to get to the plug.
My E250 came with two oil changes included with the purchase. One of my oil changes they over filled my car with oil by 1.5 liters. The Benz dealer is super busy, running cars through as fast as possible. I discovered the over fill using the Mityvac. I change the oil on this car around 5K miles so the overfill was not in the car all that long.
I think investing in a few things like a Mityvac and at least doing your own basic maintenance is smart. I will, from time to time, still pull the plug and perform a conventional drain and fill just because I like to look things over underneath my cars.
Im probably doing something stupid but it makes me feel better.
Changing oil every 3.5K mikes by using vacuum evacuator.
Every 4-5 change if I have time, I get car on ramps, extract 6-7L with evacuator,
dropping bottom cover
Opening drain plug
Let it sit for an hour or so
When its done I pour .5L fresh oil into it.
Let it drain for another hour or overnight ))
To me it looks like it helps flushing remaining old oil in the oil pan. Not sure why oil pan is not a conus shape with drain plug on the bottom of it.
Maybe Im wasting some $ but Im doing it myself and buying oil online so its not too much.
Just my.02
Maybe you have aftermarket tube? I was pulling the pan on 1987 model and the tube was properly going close to the bottom in the corner- ideal position for sucking.
Maybe you have aftermarket tube? I was pulling the pan on 1987 model and the tube was properly going close to the bottom in the corner- ideal position for sucking.
I think the dip stick tube is original but I can't be certain. I have known the car for all but about 3 years of it's life, neighbor owned it when I bought it. Seems unlikely that it would have been replaced. I have heard of other Mercedes of similar vintage that did not go to the pan.
I have now done the oil change on my 2014 ML 350 Bluetec from the top twice. I use an oil extractor that is connected to my Air Compressor. I insert the suction tube into the dipstick tube all the way down to the bottom, turn on the compressor and start the extraction. I go grab a cup of coffee while it's happening, come back once in a while to check on the oil level in the extractor. And like clock work, it reaches 8.0L each time, and the extractor is making gurgling sounds as it's now sucking air and not oil.
Note that I always leave the oil filler open, and oil filter removed. This allows air to enter while the oil is being extracted. Never any issues with this process.
I have now done the oil change on my 2014 ML 350 Bluetec from the top twice. I use an oil extractor that is connected to my Air Compressor. I insert the suction tube into the dipstick tube all the way down to the bottom, turn on the compressor and start the extraction. I go grab a cup of coffee while it's happening, come back once in a while to check on the oil level in the extractor. And like clock work, it reaches 8.0L each time, and the extractor is making gurgling sounds as it's now sucking air and not oil.
Note that I always leave the oil filler open, and oil filter removed. This allows air to enter while the oil is being extracted. Never any issues with this process.
What vacuums do you use? Like the idea using compressor.
What vacuums do you use? Like the idea using compressor.
I bought it from www.idparts.com, they no longer carry the exact one I bought. But it is similar to this one: https://www.idparts.com/15-liter-oil...or-p-2834.html . Make sure you select the PRO Option which includes the connector to the Air Compressor. It holds 15L, which is more than the 8L needed for most diesel engines.
In position and extracting oil. Black hose running off the the right is the air hose to my compressor. Close-up shot of the extractor line plugged into the oil dipstick. Close-up shot of the unit with the air line from compressor. Close-up shot of the oil level after extraction completed. I only added just slightly less than 8L last time. Hence the level is not exactly 8L
Oil Extraction Pictures for my 2014 ML 350 Bluetec.
Im probably doing something stupid but it makes me feel better.
Changing oil every 3.5K mikes by using vacuum evacuator.
Every 4-5 change if I have time, I get car on ramps, extract 6-7L with evacuator,
dropping bottom cover
Opening drain plug
Let it sit for an hour or so
When its done I pour .5L fresh oil into it.
Let it drain for another hour or overnight ))
To me it looks like it helps flushing remaining old oil in the oil pan. Not sure why oil pan is not a conus shape with drain plug on the bottom of it.
Maybe Im wasting some $ but Im doing it myself and buying oil online so its not too much.
Just my.02
Given the shape of the oil pan, location of the drain plug. I doubt your method is actually really flushing anything out. And as you stated, you wasting time, and oil. Remember this extra oil you are pouring in is not at operating temperature and therefore not thin enough to really flow well. So I doubt it's actually "picking up" left over stuff. But if it makes you feel better.......Go ahead.
OK, wondering if anyone performing DIY oil changes on this car can help with these questions. So far have not found all the answers via monitoring various forums and threads.
Now, getting the car on ramps in the first place with the low front spoiler would seem a challenge in itself.. probably need some boards in front of the ramp to help with the process - any suggestiI thought that the dealer extraction process (vaccum seal on the dipstick tube vs tube inserted into the dispstick to the bottom of the pan) was based on a "dealer quality commercial extractor" that I assumed created enough vaccum in the crankcase to draw out the oil?? In reading this thread, it sounds like it is simply using the fact that the dipstick tube goes down to the bottom of the pan. Can anyone confirm that is the case on my 2.1L bluetec engine (M651)??
Since I also have a 4-matic does it pose the same challenge with the front axle and the oil pan, thereby preventing a good drain using the extraction method? Can anyone comment on this based on the 2.1L bluetec diesel engine? From the pic below, it looks like the front axle may indeed pas through the pan - the large round opening above the drain plug.
Thanks in advance.
The dealer when they use an oil extractor, just inserts a tube down the dipstick tube into the bottom of the oil pan. And then just sucks the oil out. The dealer does not depend or use a vacuum seal at the top of the dipstick tube as you suggest. They do if for speed and $$$. This way they avoid having to remove the very large under belly pan. If you look carefully at the drain plug location and the oil pan, it's not really designed/geared for any of the suggestions you brought up, ie jack it up on 4 jack stands, using ramp, etc...I would suggest that using the drain plug is going to leave more oil in the pan than using an oil extractor.
My tube on my '97 E300D does not go to the pan. My math skills leave something to be desired, but I think it is about 22 years old.
Same with my 2008 W211 E320 Bluetec - the engine oil dipstick tube does not go all the way to the bottom of the oil pan!
Yes, I have heard the argument before and have have done vacuum extraction both ways and noticed that in my 642.920 engine, about 1.5 liters of oil remains in the pan when using just the vacuum to the dipstick tube method.
Inserting a plastic tube all the way down will get all the oil out and when that's done it's easy to suck out any oil remaining in the oil filter housing bottom.
I use this handy sucker from HF tools, which can also pull out cold 90W gear oil out of truck differential.
The dealer when they use an oil extractor, just inserts a tube down the dipstick tube into the bottom of the oil pan. And then just sucks the oil out. The dealer does not depend or use a vacuum seal at the top of the dipstick tube as you suggest..
Dealer's MECHANIC don't use hand pumps for oil extractors and they don't pay out of their pockets for running vacuum pumps. So instead of changing adapters who fit top of the car tube- they use 1 tube to shovel it down, start the pump and go for a smoke.
They also are not too much concern about tube going to the very bottom.
Would you have a photo of what the bottom end of the tube looks like?
There must be fairly large opening either in-between the oil pan and bottom end of the tube or opening on the side of the tube, which explains why fairly large amount of oil remains if oil is sucked out by using only the tube (I.E. without inserting smaller flexible tube down dipstick tube to bottom of the pan).
OM642 has multi-layer oil pan, so taking picture of mounted dipstick tube is impossible in normal ways. I just measured the length and depth.
I had very nice picture of mounted tube from OM603 engine posted on benzworld, but they changed the script lately and my attachment seem to be lost.
Google did not find it neither.
Sorry,
Dealer's MECHANIC don't use hand pumps for oil extractors and they don't pay out of their pockets for running vacuum pumps. So instead of changing adapters who fit top of the car tube- they use 1 tube to shovel it down, start the pump and go for a smoke.
They also are not too much concern about tube going to the very bottom.
I just did another oil change on my 2014 ML 350 Bluetec last night use the oil extractor. I also compared the length of the dip stick vs the length of the extraction tube. The extraction tube is almost 6 inches longer than the dipstick. So not sure why you feel the tube is not going to the very bottom. Extracted a little over 8L this time around. As I added an extra 0.5L when I filled it up last time. So the arguments of not getting the entire amount of oil out.....really depends on the oil extractor used. At this point, I am 3 for 3 using the oil extraction. The extractor pulls out exactly what I put in.
I just did another oil change on my 2014 ML 350 Bluetec last night use the oil extractor. I also compared the length of the dip stick vs the length of the extraction tube. The extraction tube is almost 6 inches longer than the dipstick. So not sure why you feel the tube is not going to the very bottom. Extracted a little over 8L this time around. As I added an extra 0.5L when I filled it up last time. So the arguments of not getting the entire amount of oil out.....really depends on the oil extractor used. At this point, I am 3 for 3 using the oil extraction. The extractor pulls out exactly what I put in.
Im using vacuum extractor too, first time I used it and went under the car and opened drain plug, just a few drops came out.
The only thing I wish they could do to extractors is to made clear plastic window to see the extracted level, using the flashlight from another side to contrast the level.
Im confident it pulls all oil what I have put in.
Love it.
I just did another oil change on my 2014 ML 350 Bluetec last night use the oil extractor. I also compared the length of the dip stick vs the length of the extraction tube. The extraction tube is almost 6 inches longer than the dipstick. So not sure why you feel the tube is not going to the very bottom. Extracted a little over 8L this time around. As I added an extra 0.5L when I filled it up last time. So the arguments of not getting the entire amount of oil out.....really depends on the oil extractor used. At this point, I am 3 for 3 using the oil extraction. The extractor pulls out exactly what I put in.
I think you are confusing the metal dipstick "holder" which extends very close to the bottom of the oil pan and is part of these engines, and a flexible suction tube that is inserted temporarily inside the said metal tube in order to suck out the oil.
Some people do not bother to insert the flex tube and rely on the metal dipstick holder tube alone, and just simply apply vacuum to the top end of it in order to suck out the used oil.
This shortcut method sort of works, but in my experience it leaves about 1.5 liters of used oil on the bottom of the oil pan (at least in my 642.920 engine) which why I insert a tube all the way down to the bottom of oil pan.
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