Egr/dpf delete ?
if this started right after you had your delete/tune done, i would definitely be going back to whomever did the delete/tune
while the engine is still not at operating temp i do however once in a while see white/grey exhaust smoke, nothing abnormal usually, i see plenty of gasoline vehicles on the road emitting just as much if not more exhaust. sometimes though i have seen quite a bit of exhuast coming out of mine, but this is usually just when i start driving on a cold morning.
there is however a stinky smell on mine. peter says his doesn't smell, so im thinking it may be because mine is running richer due to the tune. or maybe something else, his work was done by leaving one of the original cans and taking out the other, while my shop took out both and then installed the buzzken pipe with another doc cat. i contacted buzzken to get more info and he told me that unfortunately that's how Mercedes are and they are known to be stinkier than other diesels (maybe others have experience with deleted mercedes and other deleted diesel cars like VW and could confirm/deny the claim). What buzzken also told me though was different than some of the info i found on a parts breakdown and what some people on this forum thought of my removed parts. i posted pics and someone identified the first smaller can as the dpf and the other larger can as the cat, when i talked to buzzken he told me the first smaller can is technically a combination doc cat and dpf while the second larger can is a scr cat. he also said that the scr cat must be removed if the doc cat/dpf is removed. So we have some different info on the different parts. If buzzken is right then peter may have to keep an eye on things or he may still run into some issues of something getting clogged.
while i am still hoping to find a solution to the stinkiness. it's only noticeable when at a stand still, and i think only while the engine is still getting up to operating temp, although i havent been able to validate this because i don't drive the car enough.
ive recently been looking into fuel fragrances to see if that would be a viable option. summer is coming and driving with windows down would be nice and i dont want to have to wait to get the car fully up to operating temp to roll my windows down. in stop and go traffic that could take 15-20 mins.
although i agree with peter and hope that doing what i did will provide longer trouble free driving and be better long term, i would definitely not do it unless i had to. my adblue heater CEL was initially intermittent, and i just kept clearing it and driving around. i think i drove well over a month from the time the CEL initially popped up. eventually it got to a point where even when i cleared it it would come back within the first drive. If that was the first issue i had i probably wouldve had it fixed, but earlier in the year i actually had replaced 2 nox sensors due to another CEL, so all this was starting to add up and become a problem. i shouldve done it when the nox sensor issue came up, but because i didnt everything ended up costing me double in the end.
keep your adblue topped up and maybe your cel will stay away and you wont have to spend any money on an unnecessary delete/tune. do as kajtek said also and try to keep the dpf healthy. do a delete/tune if you have to because the cost for the delete/tune would be the same as whatever repair you have to do or the repair costs are starting to add up, then i think it would make sense.
tbh i have no clue what hp/torque my car has now, but it is much more enjoyable to drive now with the extra power from the tune =

I just had the work on my 2012 ml350 2 days ago with a Malone stage 1 and buzzken doc cat pipe.
It stunk and loud when left the shop. They requested I take it back to turn the swirl flaps back on.
Now it drives with an inconsistent acceleration, as if it tries to speed up and then slows.
Was your tune done via OBD?
Regards
Vin




None of the above will happen if you modified the engine.
are just like the current repairs, always more needed. There is no economically prudent fix for any owners of the affected systems except to delete
their useless wonder before they delete your wallet of the however amount of money you budget. Let MB drag its knuckles long enough and the public
buyers of The Best or Nothing brand will end up subsidizing their $2B fine. From all the container ships, fuel tankers, cruise lines, and the military and
airports worldwide, the private diesel vehicles and diesel engines in farming and support roles(generators...) and small business doesn't equal 1% of the
former mentioned dirty emissions spewers on a good day. If one were to add OTR diesel tractors and the parcel/freight couriers, bump up the latter to 5%
dirty diesel emissions. And, if my numbers are wrong it doesn't mean I'm lying.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...ml#post8809123
I think you can safely order, the solution to this problem for me was easy, clear, simple.
The dpf delete is extra. Once done you can delete. I recieved a dpf delete pipe from cb engineering. It it for a gl. I think they have an ml if not the same piece. The best part it that you can use a better protecting oil without worrying about destroying the dpf




Doing it several times on E class, it become about 20 minutes job.
V6 engine is leaving very little space around, so the job is going to be harder.
Now talking about DPF delete - don't do it. All I've got by doing so was lot of soot on rear of the car and nerves during inspection.
When DPF become easily available, I converted it back and even with each fueling registered on fuelly, there is no measurable difference. .. ignoring the soot obviously.
Rear of the car is where I could see it. How much landed on my lungs is to be determined.








When after AEM I do have new DPF, it regenerates in city traffic just fine.
Having extended warranty, I don't hesitate to abort regeneration when trip ends. It will resume the next day once engine reaches 60C.

When after AEM I do have new DPF, it regenerates in city traffic just fine.
Having extended warranty, I don't hesitate to abort regeneration when trip ends. It will resume the next day once engine reaches 60C.

Doing it several times on E class, it become about 20 minutes job.
V6 engine is leaving very little space around, so the job is going to be harder.
Now talking about DPF delete - don't do it. All I've got by doing so was lot of soot on rear of the car and nerves during inspection.
When DPF become easily available, I converted it back and even with each fueling registered on fuelly, there is no measurable difference. .. ignoring the soot obviously.
Rear of the car is where I could see it. How much landed on my lungs is to be determined.
OP get a monitor to see when your regens are taking place and see if letting them finish helps at all. Other than that see if you can find a tune better than the one Kajtek1 had on his. You should be able to get one that takes weeks or even months to get any noticeable soot on the bumper assuming any are still around.








Stuttgart simply did not supply them.
Now aftermarket DPF (from forum sponsor) sell for $600-1000 and they deliver within few days, so supply is no longer a problem.
DPF to some degree is wearable, so replacing it at high mileage should be no problem. Just like airmatic.




The dpf delete is extra. Once done you can delete. I recieved a dpf delete pipe from cb engineering. It it for a gl. I think they have an ml if not the same piece of L5P delete kit. The best part it that you can use a better protecting oil without worrying about destroying the dpf
Last edited by yovenim; Apr 29, 2025 at 08:22 PM.
Under the Biden administration, the EPA were going hard against shops and even individuals who deleted emissions (mostly from diesels) in the USA, but under the Trump administration that is no longer occurring. HOWEVER it is still CURRENTLY federally illegal.
But that MAY be changing in the near future to a limited extent. There is a Congressional Review Act (CRA) that just passed the House yesterday, and is now going to the Senate for a vote. If this passes, it will do many things but one of them will be to allow for a "useful life" exemption on emissions systems, such that if your emissions systems have FAILED and your vehicle is past a certain age and mileage, then you'll be allowed to delete them. This doesn't mean that you can delete functioning emissions controls legally (although there is no mechanism listed in this CRA to check up on this) and it does not remove the requirement for manufacturers to install them on new vehicles (however it does roll back emissions requirements to the 2020 standards).
If this passes the Senate (likely) it WILL be signed into law by President Trump, and the useful life exemptions will be as follows:
10 years or 120,000 miles for light duty vehicles and light duty trucks (that's pretty much all the vehicles covered by this forum), and 11 years or 120,000 miles for heavy light duty trucks (think F350s and 2500s) and medium duty passenger vehicles (like school buses).
DISCLAIMER: I'm not an attorney, legal expert, or elected representative of any government, and I'm not recommending anyone to do anything to their vehicles or anyone else's vehicles.
SOURCE: https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-4...ion-86.1805-17
- Legal Status - While deletes can improve reliability and performance, they're federally prohibited for road use in the US/Canada. Off-road/track use only.
- Proper Execution Requires:
- Quality delete pipes (look for mandrel-bent 304SS like DynoVox offers)
- Complete tuning solution (not just "block off and go")
- Supporting mods (EGT monitoring, possible turbo adjustments)
- Common Mistakes
- Using cheap clamp-on flanges that leak
- Skipping the required tune (will trigger limp mode)
- Not addressing crankcase ventilation after EGR removal




