s350 2013 rough cold start
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Dodge Ram2500 Diesel 4x4 and VW tdi -- soon a 221 S350
s350 2013 rough cold start
Hey guys
I have a 2013 s350 bluetec 4 matic with 46k miles on it... it does not get driven much. Question, if it site for 3 to 4 weeks it has a really hard/rough start -- i have to press accelerator to keep it running. After it warms up it is fine. It is on a battery tender when stored and i have the original battery still.
When newer -- there was not this issue -- ideas????
I travel a lot... ;-))
Thx!!
C
I have a 2013 s350 bluetec 4 matic with 46k miles on it... it does not get driven much. Question, if it site for 3 to 4 weeks it has a really hard/rough start -- i have to press accelerator to keep it running. After it warms up it is fine. It is on a battery tender when stored and i have the original battery still.
When newer -- there was not this issue -- ideas????
I travel a lot... ;-))
Thx!!
C
#2
If you can get it scanned with a good oem style scanner they can pull the canbus/mb codes that go beyond the check engine light that isnt illuminating. Have you tried moving to the on position and waiting a couple more seconds before turning it over?
Is it all starts or only cold starts?
Is it all starts or only cold starts?
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Dodge Ram2500 Diesel 4x4 and VW tdi -- soon a 221 S350
If you can get it scanned with a good oem style scanner they can pull the canbus/mb codes that go beyond the check engine light that isnt illuminating. Have you tried moving to the on position and waiting a couple more seconds before turning it over?
Is it all starts or only cold starts?
Is it all starts or only cold starts?
Thank you! Sorry for delay -- just lost a good friend this week...
Yeah i will try the on position for a longer time.... this next start which will be on the 28th of June.... last start was the 24th of May!! ;-)) On a tender so battery charge is fine...
And yeah this only happens when the car has sat for 3 weeks or longer... it is almost like a gas engine that is missing a few spark plugs or not firing on all cylinders.... or fuel is just not there completely. I have an older TDI and an older Cummins Ram that this happens only in very very cold weather... but, not even close to as rough as this .... and temperature in the garage is never really below 50...
And cold starts by themselves are just fine.... that is if i have been driving it every week.
So, what the heck??
I have a tester but as you say... no lights come on and the tester (from experience) does not read everything on this car -- crazy -- too many computers i think ;-))))
Anyway... i just dont want to mess the car up if it needs something that i am not aware of???
Thx again
Charlie
#4
Could be a couple of things but without proper diagnostic tools its hard to say. Try letting it sit for a bit, (until you hear the fuel pump stop priming, 30 seconds or more). If that doesnt work report back. we'll go from there.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I had bad GP module on my OM642 and it would fire up after 3 seconds in 55F weather.
The only thing that can keep diesel from running is fuel. I bet the hoses suck air on long term.
As suggested above, you have electric prime pump, that comes for few seconds when you turn ignition to position 2. Cycling it couple of times should make a difference.
When you have significant leak, it will show wet on the engine, so pulling the cover off and taking good look would be 1st thing to check.
Other than that, you can observer fuel rail pressure to confirm lack of priming.
The only thing that can keep diesel from running is fuel. I bet the hoses suck air on long term.
As suggested above, you have electric prime pump, that comes for few seconds when you turn ignition to position 2. Cycling it couple of times should make a difference.
When you have significant leak, it will show wet on the engine, so pulling the cover off and taking good look would be 1st thing to check.
Other than that, you can observer fuel rail pressure to confirm lack of priming.
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Dodge Ram2500 Diesel 4x4 and VW tdi -- soon a 221 S350
Thx a lot guys!!
When i get to the car i will follow suggestions...
I bought a reader some time ago. It is in the car so i don't even know which one it is right now as i am away from both (out of town)... the vendor of the reader said it could real the whole car -- but, it did not read the Blue Def heater failure we had!
Anyway -- point being -- which reader is best???
Thx again
Charlie
When i get to the car i will follow suggestions...
I bought a reader some time ago. It is in the car so i don't even know which one it is right now as i am away from both (out of town)... the vendor of the reader said it could real the whole car -- but, it did not read the Blue Def heater failure we had!
Anyway -- point being -- which reader is best???
Thx again
Charlie
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
If you have ca $25,000 the SD is the best, but I heard the subscription with Stuttgart cost thousands as well. Hacked clones work till they don't.
In last year several legal scanners come on the market. Autotel, MaxiEcu, iCarsoft MBII.
Each one of them supports some functions, but not all of them.
Yeah, "should read the whole car" - I have heard that before.
I tried the above and keep iCarsoft and MaxiEcu. bit still new cars require SCN coding and you will be in mercy of dealer. Not sure about 2013 model thought.
In last year several legal scanners come on the market. Autotel, MaxiEcu, iCarsoft MBII.
Each one of them supports some functions, but not all of them.
Yeah, "should read the whole car" - I have heard that before.
I tried the above and keep iCarsoft and MaxiEcu. bit still new cars require SCN coding and you will be in mercy of dealer. Not sure about 2013 model thought.