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Just in case anyone's interested if the $$ spent on oversize oil filters/expensive and high-zinc oil/extra flushes with cheapo oil and engine flush treatments is worth it.
Trying to figure out what are you saying?
Your report is not showing anything exciting. Looks like Amsoil has slight problem with viscosity and that's all?
I wonder what would happen if you lengthened your interval to 16K KM (or 10K miles) as per the factory recommendation in the US for the OM651 engine.......
I did play with oils driving Ford flatbed semi-commercially. My goal was to determinate best oil and extended intervals.
Ford recommended 5000 oil changes on this engine and you can see I did extend it quite a bit. Mid-way via those reports I used Mobil1, who generated high iron and could not shake the high iron since, but then I was really pushing the extended use.
Sold the truck running perfectly.
What you might notice- Blackstone will never say something is wrong, unless you have catastrophic report.
And BTW, truck was used for heavy hauling, so 10,000 miles used about 1200 gallons of fuel .
just going to add my oil reports here and comments that blackstone left. i also did the oil filter mod that peter did, except ive been running a DBL7349 filter ( https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-...questid=147353 )
also did a cheap oil flush before putting in the fresh Amsoil. i dont think the flush cleaned everything out though considering the first report after the oil change, I'll do a better flush on the next oil change. ive been running Amsoil signature series diesel 5w-30 ( https://www.amsoil.ca/p/signature-se...oil-5w-30-dhd/ )
still on the same oil as of today since i dont drive much. all mileage numbers on the report are KM.
First report was done on the mercedes oil and recommended 1 yr interval. the subsequent 2 are on the amsoil with the new filter mod.
Let me know your thoughts since these reports don't mean much to me besides Blackstone's comments...
Both oils you used Babukb2 show low molybdenum, what would indicate dino oils? The link you posted- indicate amsoil as synthetic, but I wonder why they would do different formula than the rest of industry?
Still for such low kilometrage the iron and other metals are high.
I would be tempted to switch to good synthetic. The truth is that you have no way to check why the metals wear higher, but switching the oil is the simplest thing to do.
Unless your flush does the trick? What you use for that?
I am getting annoying with Blackstone double-tongue comments. "nice, metals are lower" >>> on the oil who run 1/3 the distance than the 1st one. What a BS it is.
I think would you run FSS recommended 20,000 km on the oil, you'd have lot of numbers in red.
thanks for the input @kajtek1
the first report sample date 2/23/2019 - this was whatever oil mercedes sold me the car with. they did fresh oil and filter when I picked up the car, this sample was pulled approximately 1 yr driving on that oil, 14683km total on the oil.
the other 2 samples are the same Signature series max-duty synthetic diesel oil 5w-30. since starting to use the amsoil i haven't had to do an oil change yet.
what i did to flush was I ran liqui moly engine flush for a few minutes, then vacuumed out all the oil. then i poured some cheap Certified 10w-30 diesel oil in (i dont think this is synthetic https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/c...-0287915p.html ), let the engine run a few minutes, then again vacuumed out all the oil. then installed the new filter and put in the new Amsoil.
my guess would be because i used the vacuum method to do the oil change, i probably have remnants of the original Mercedes oil and also the cheap Certified oil in my good amsoil now.your thoughts on this?
this summer i was thinking to do the same flush procedure, but also after vacuuming to take off the oil drain plug and drain anything left in the pan, then maybe plug it back up and pour some oil in and then again take plug out and let it drain with any remnants.
i was also looking at ordering a Dimple magnetic plug and installing it since ill be taking the plug out.
im open to any other suggestions on a flush procedure if you think it will help. different engine flush liquid and/or different cheap oil to use for a flush.
You will never extract all oil from the engine. Beside engine cavities, oil pan will maintain a :"film" of oil, who per my observation - can be gargled better by vacuum, but will leave more when only side plug is open.
Anyway, years of oil disputes never come with conclusion that flushes do anything good.
Pardon me, decades of disputes...
And from what I see on European market - they still use dino mixes on their car. They don't have US lawyers to dictate otherwise
I found good deal on 229.52 Motul at https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/TL-107206
what i did to flush was I ran liqui moly engine flush for a few minutes, then vacuumed out all the oil. then i poured some cheap Certified 10w-30 diesel oil in (i dont think this is synthetic https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/c...-0287915p.html ), let the engine run a few minutes, then again vacuumed out all the oil. then installed the new filter and put in the new Amsoil......
i was also looking at ordering a Dimple magnetic plug and installing it since ill be taking the plug out.
im open to any other suggestions on a flush procedure if you think it will help. different engine flush liquid and/or different cheap oil to use for a flush.
I do the same thing, flushing with cheapo oil. I also run Dimple plugs on all our vehicles. I honestly don't know if all this actually helps anything, damn oil is jet black again within a week...
Interesting story; I've had a few chats with the owner of Dimple. He told me that he had family from Quebec from the 1800's. I told him about how France needed to populate the New World (Quebec) so they offered their prison inmates a choice; Rot in jail, or start a new life in New France.
They then realized that all these horny men needed.....well, female companionship, not to mention the need to populate the New World. So they rounded up all the hookers they could in France's cities and shipped 'em off to the New World to keep the men company.
Every time we talk, we chuckle about that. He said he's stopped bragging about having ancestral lines from Quebec LOL
Just bear in mind the cheap oil flush will leave some of the cheap oil in your engine to run.
What's better for your engine? The cup or 2 of old, high-tech oil mixed with new oil, or cup of cheap oil mixed with new stuff?
Mind oil base don't deteriorate. We replace them in small engines due to contamination and chem pac refreshing.
@kajtek1 you're right, never will we get all the oil out. so either way youre left with some old oil with your new, or some old oil + cheap oil from flush mixed in with your new oil...you just cant win unless you got money to burn on fancy oil, which i refuse to do!
now theres another experiment to be had, old good oil mixed in with new vs new cheap oil + probably a bit of old good oil mixed in with the new....anyone got the funds to run that experiment?
the motul is a good deal, i found a similar price on some canadian sites, but given peter and i have the deletes done on the cars, i dont think 229.52 is required. plus ive still got a case of amsoil laying around. thanks for the tip though, i used to only run Motul on my sport bike
@peter2772000 i knew there had to be a reason besides the 18yr drinking age that all the kids were heading to quebec, must be the hooker bloodlines!
what dimple did you get for the ml350? from my research it should be the M12x1.5x12, but their site lists that one being for V8 and V12 engines.
do you find anything on the dimple during oil changes? wondering if its worth it.
The Dimple only attracts ferrous metals, so unless the cylinder or crank/cam are getting chewed up, don't expect any major accumulation of metals on the plug.
Having stated the above, I have found minuscule metal "fuzz" on the Dimple of my 140,000 mile FJ Cruiser.
Just bear in mind the cheap oil flush will leave some of the cheap oil in your engine to run.
What's better for your engine? The cup or 2 of old, high-tech oil mixed with new oil, or cup of cheap oil mixed with new stuff?
Mind oil base don't deteriorate. We replace them in small engines due to contamination and chem pac refreshing.
DanD once left his truck to drain overnite, I believe he got an additional 6 ounces of old oil. Kryz, doing something is better than doing nothing. At least then, if/when the engine takes a dump, it won't be for a lack of trying. And don't forget, Babukb2 and I both run engine flush during the oil changes. I really don't want any of that #hit in the engine long-term.
Than again, factory engineers are not worry about engine flush when changing the oil.
That is even more evident on Ford diesels, who for couple generations used motor oil to run high pressure fuel pump.
That pump trap about 2 quarts of oil from 14 quarts fill. Even there is small plug on the pump, who (with involved mess) would allow draining that oil, Ford manual call only for bottom pan drain and not worrying about the 2 quarts left in the pump.
Than Ford calls for 5k miles oil changes.
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