No oil change in 2 years, panicking, need your help
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ML350 Bluetec W166
No oil change in 2 years, panicking, need your help
Hi, vehicle in question is a 2014 ML350 Bluetec.
So my parents have been driving my ML350 around the beginning of COVID, late2019. They never change the oil, and the last dealer service was in 2019 MAY24.
They drove about 16000km or 10k miles since. They stopped the insurance and parked it for a few months in 2020.
The god damn B2 service reminder only pop up a few days ago, saying it's overdue for 351 days, and that's when my parents told me.
I've never missed any oil change in any of my cars and I never had any engine problem before, so I'm quite worried right now.
How serious is the situation?
So my parents have been driving my ML350 around the beginning of COVID, late2019. They never change the oil, and the last dealer service was in 2019 MAY24.
They drove about 16000km or 10k miles since. They stopped the insurance and parked it for a few months in 2020.
The god damn B2 service reminder only pop up a few days ago, saying it's overdue for 351 days, and that's when my parents told me.
I've never missed any oil change in any of my cars and I never had any engine problem before, so I'm quite worried right now.
How serious is the situation?
#2
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That's what happen in the country, where oil changes are dictated by lawyers.
Relax, 2 years and up to 20,000 km is normal interval in Europe.
Relax, 2 years and up to 20,000 km is normal interval in Europe.
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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
You need to have the oil changed immediately assuming that it hasn't congealed yet. That's *exactly* how the OM642 gets gummed up and then people complain about spun bearings and thrown rods. It's a diesel - they need to be changing the oil every 8,000 km at the most regardless of what Mercedes may have said for marketing purposes.
(a) It is not and especially not on a diesel, and more importantly, (b) Europe doesn't have the ~20% biodiesel content that various US states pump put, which is what significantly contributes to the problems there.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
B20 fuels are sold at truck stops on West Coast with big banners saying so.
By the law, fuel can be sold as diesel without additional warnings when it has max of 5% bio.
Just like 5% of ethanol in gasoline.
Strangely my Ford Powerstroke run on B20 better than on regural diesel. I record each fill on fuelly, so have solid records.
FYI motor oils don't age and have infinite shelf life.
The reason for time-based oil change is due to some climates, where there might be water condensation dripping into oil pan.
That doesn't apply to warm climates, or vehicles park in garage.
My low mileage motorhomes in CA had oils not changed for up to 8 years. So did my tractor with Kubota engine.
Last edited by kajtek1; 05-13-2021 at 12:20 PM.
#5
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I wouldn't worry about it. Just get the motor super hot by taking it on a long highway drive and change the oil. If you have a star, see when last regeneration of the dpf took place. If long ago, force regeneration and change oil.
best
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What's the current mileage? Looks like the car had 3000 miles oil changes before. That can be actually harmful.
Also make sure you get correct oil from bevmo.
You will find long topic here, where those engines were killed by dealers using bulk oil design for older diesels, who in this particular motor turned into gelatin.
Also make sure you get correct oil from bevmo.
You will find long topic here, where those engines were killed by dealers using bulk oil design for older diesels, who in this particular motor turned into gelatin.
Last edited by kajtek1; 05-13-2021 at 03:19 PM.
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You need to have the oil changed immediately assuming that it hasn't congealed yet. That's *exactly* how the OM642 gets gummed up and then people complain about spun bearings and thrown rods. It's a diesel - they need to be changing the oil every 8,000 km at the most regardless of what Mercedes may have said for marketing purposes.
First, change with Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX(229.52) and Wix filter. Second change with MB dealer oil(only 5w-30 is available) and filter.
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the Star tool under $1000 on amazon/ebay/etc look quite fishy to me.
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What's the current mileage? Looks like the car had 3000 miles oil changes before. That can be actually harmful.
Also make sure you get correct oil from bevmo.
You will find long topic here, where those engines were killed by dealers using bulk oil design for older diesels, who in this particular motor turned into gelatin.
Also make sure you get correct oil from bevmo.
You will find long topic here, where those engines were killed by dealers using bulk oil design for older diesels, who in this particular motor turned into gelatin.
Yes bulk oil, I Highly suspect the 229.51 they used to put in there is the culprit for trashing both NOx sensors(upstream and down).
And regardless of 229.51 or 229.52, they insisted even is DIY should use their 5W-30, not what I prefer 0W-30 pennzoil in winter and 0W-40 liquimoly/motul in Summer(all 229.52 approved)
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This is what I'm fearing of. It is parked right now and I planned to do an oil/filter change right away, drive it for a couple of hours on the highway, then do Another oil/filter change.
First, change with Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX(229.52) and Wix filter. Second change with MB dealer oil(only 5w-30 is available) and filter.
First, change with Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX(229.52) and Wix filter. Second change with MB dealer oil(only 5w-30 is available) and filter.
Yup, Plan on doing it, but I don't have a star. I've seen a few youtube vids where people have a laptop and xentry installed, with a mini vci cable directly to OBD2 port. don't know how it works, can someone explain?
the Star tool under $1000 on amazon/ebay/etc look quite fishy to me.
the Star tool under $1000 on amazon/ebay/etc look quite fishy to me.
Currently a bit over 70000miles, updated logs and photo. 3000miles oil change due to all local short trips(within 5 miles), the engine rarely warms up. can you explain how it can be harmful.
Yes bulk oil, I Highly suspect the 229.51 they used to put in there is the culprit for trashing both NOx sensors(upstream and down).
And regardless of 229.51 or 229.52, they insisted even is DIY should use their 5W-30, not what I prefer 0W-30 pennzoil in winter and 0W-40 liquimoly/motul in Summer(all 229.52 approved)
Yes bulk oil, I Highly suspect the 229.51 they used to put in there is the culprit for trashing both NOx sensors(upstream and down).
And regardless of 229.51 or 229.52, they insisted even is DIY should use their 5W-30, not what I prefer 0W-30 pennzoil in winter and 0W-40 liquimoly/motul in Summer(all 229.52 approved)
The OEM Mererdes oil now has additional additives to combat the effects of the higher biodiesel content in the USA, which results in excessive fuel dilution and also creates different combustion byproducts from "dino juice" diesel. In the winter when I don't tow the race car to various tracks and drive the ML almost exclusively (i.e. a lot of short trips), I usually change the oil after 3000 km myself. In the summer the ML gets used less frequently and furthermore gets properly exercised (so any moisture in the sump has a chance to fully evaporate) when going on longer trips and/or towing, I do about 6000 km between changes.
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Neither does US or Canada.
B20 fuels are sold at truck stops on West Coast with big banners saying so.
By the law, fuel can be sold as diesel without additional warnings when it has max of 5% bio.
Just like 5% of ethanol in gasoline.
Strangely my Ford Powerstroke run on B20 better than on regural diesel. I record each fill on fuelly, so have solid records.
FYI motor oils don't age and have infinite shelf life.
The reason for time-based oil change is due to some climates, where there might be water condensation dripping into oil pan.
That doesn't apply to warm climates, or vehicles park in garage.
My low mileage motorhomes in CA had oils not changed for up to 8 years. So did my tractor with Kubota engine.
B20 fuels are sold at truck stops on West Coast with big banners saying so.
By the law, fuel can be sold as diesel without additional warnings when it has max of 5% bio.
Just like 5% of ethanol in gasoline.
Strangely my Ford Powerstroke run on B20 better than on regural diesel. I record each fill on fuelly, so have solid records.
FYI motor oils don't age and have infinite shelf life.
The reason for time-based oil change is due to some climates, where there might be water condensation dripping into oil pan.
That doesn't apply to warm climates, or vehicles park in garage.
My low mileage motorhomes in CA had oils not changed for up to 8 years. So did my tractor with Kubota engine.
The reason for time-based oil changes is not due to the climate, but it is because of moisture in the oil pan. Moisture is a combustion byproduct and unless you always run your car for several hours at a time when the oil has a chance to get up to temperature and stay there for a sufficiently long period of time for the moisture to fully evaporate every time you drive it, it will stay in the sump resulting in oxidation of various parts and ultimately premature engine failure. And, while pure (unused) oil does have a considerably long shelf life, once there's moisture (water), soot, unburnt fuel and all sorts of other garbage in it, it will mechanically separate and gunk up in a considerably shorter period.
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Currently a bit over 70000miles, updated logs and photo. 3000miles oil change due to all local short trips(within 5 miles), the engine rarely warms up. can you explain how it can be harmful.
Yes bulk oil, I Highly suspect the 229.51 they used to put in there is the culprit for trashing both NOx sensors(upstream and down).
And regardless of 229.51 or 229.52, they insisted even is DIY should use their 5W-30, not what I prefer 0W-30 pennzoil in winter and 0W-40 liquimoly/motul in Summer(all 229.52 approved)
Yes bulk oil, I Highly suspect the 229.51 they used to put in there is the culprit for trashing both NOx sensors(upstream and down).
And regardless of 229.51 or 229.52, they insisted even is DIY should use their 5W-30, not what I prefer 0W-30 pennzoil in winter and 0W-40 liquimoly/motul in Summer(all 229.52 approved)
Modern oils (for last 40 years) do have detergents and chem packs to neutralize engine chemistry. They come in big overdose with new oil and wear out gradually to be at perfect balance at about 1/2 of recommended interval, than become low. That is why oil addition between changes is highly recommended.
Now changing oil at 3000 miles makes the engine running on high overdose of detergents and acids all the time.
It is not making huge difference, but when engines had oil changed at 3000, they very seldom would reach 300-400,000 miles modern engines do.
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Use 229.52 oils in this engine only.
Modern oils (for last 40 years) do have detergents and chem packs to neutralize engine chemistry. They come in big overdose with new oil and wear out gradually to be at perfect balance at about 1/2 of recommended interval, than become low. That is why oil addition between changes is highly recommended.
Now changing oil at 3000 miles makes the engine running on high overdose of detergents and acids all the time.
It is not making huge difference, but when engines had oil changed at 3000, they very seldom would reach 300-400,000 miles modern engines do.
Modern oils (for last 40 years) do have detergents and chem packs to neutralize engine chemistry. They come in big overdose with new oil and wear out gradually to be at perfect balance at about 1/2 of recommended interval, than become low. That is why oil addition between changes is highly recommended.
Now changing oil at 3000 miles makes the engine running on high overdose of detergents and acids all the time.
It is not making huge difference, but when engines had oil changed at 3000, they very seldom would reach 300-400,000 miles modern engines do.
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Again, that is incorrect. Yes, all oils absolutely have additives to neutralize combustion chemistry. However, there is no "overdosing" of anything (unless you add stuff to it yourself). There are no detergents in the oil that strip anything nor is the oil acidic - quite to the contrary. The oil has additives like ash and sulphur to PREVENT it from becoming acidic a result of moisture. There are additives in the oil to keep solid soot particles suspended in the oil instead of adhering to engine surfaces, but the problem are the soot particles themselves. Furthermore, oil starts mechanically breaking down due to shear forces from the very second you put it in and start the engine. The absolute best engine protection is fresh oil. Always.
In addition to the viscosity index improvers, motor oil manufacturers often include other additives such as detergents and dispersants to help keep the engine clean by minimizing sludge buildup, corrosion inhibitors, and alkaline additives to neutralize acidic oxidation products of the oil.
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Not quite.
You should visit the midwest USA soy belt sometime, and specifically MN or IL, where B20 is mandated. Granted, it says so right on all the pumps but that's all you're gonna find here in the summer. (Producers are permitted to back off to B5 in the winter due to bio issues in extreme cold.) The good news the engines run fine on the bio blend. The bad news is bio is hell for everything else.
FWIW, I religiously complete 5K oil changes instead of the MB service interval specifically due to bio.
You should visit the midwest USA soy belt sometime, and specifically MN or IL, where B20 is mandated. Granted, it says so right on all the pumps but that's all you're gonna find here in the summer. (Producers are permitted to back off to B5 in the winter due to bio issues in extreme cold.) The good news the engines run fine on the bio blend. The bad news is bio is hell for everything else.
FWIW, I religiously complete 5K oil changes instead of the MB service interval specifically due to bio.
Last edited by cadetdrivr; 05-14-2021 at 05:02 PM.
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Double-tap....
Watch dia..... as he Googles to find out what doubletap means....
Watch dia..... as he Googles to find out what doubletap means....
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Such statement is senseless without disclosured mileage.
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Not quite.
You should visit the midwest USA soy belt sometime, and specifically MN or IL, where B20 is mandated. Granted, it says so right on all the pumps but that's all you're gonna find here in the summer. (Producers are permitted to back off to B5 in the winter due to bio issues in extreme cold.) The good news the engines run fine on the bio blend. The bad news is bio is hell for everything else.
FWIW, I religiously complete 5K oil changes instead of the MB service interval specifically due to bio.
You should visit the midwest USA soy belt sometime, and specifically MN or IL, where B20 is mandated. Granted, it says so right on all the pumps but that's all you're gonna find here in the summer. (Producers are permitted to back off to B5 in the winter due to bio issues in extreme cold.) The good news the engines run fine on the bio blend. The bad news is bio is hell for everything else.
FWIW, I religiously complete 5K oil changes instead of the MB service interval specifically due to bio.
Still my note was addressed to opinion that biodiesel creates problem. I drove several vehicles on B20 and I drove older MB diesel on 100% bio. Beside noticeable power drop, never had other issue. Even predicted fuel filter clog never happen.
And I always change oils per FSS recommendations, what is average 13,000 miles on sedans and 22,000 miles on Sprinters.
Sprinter engines have bigger oil pan, comparing to the same engine in sedan.
I am in contact with several new owners of MB diesels who I drove in the past.
2 of them passed 300k miles, the 2007 Bluetec passed 200k miles. Bluetec needed injector replacement, but other than that the engines run perfect.
Last edited by kajtek1; 05-15-2021 at 12:12 AM.
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I've also heard that if you don't recalibrate after air filter change, it will recalibrate itself SLOWLY.
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Is that so? I can't find any confirmation on the net. I have been to those states few years back and don't recall troubles with fuel, although I remember that Chicago historically has very high fuel prices, so I always fill up before going there.
Still my note was addressed to opinion that biodiesel creates problem. I drove several vehicles on B20 and I drove older MB diesel on 100% bio. Beside noticeable power drop, never had other issue. Even predicted fuel filter clog never happen.
And I always change oils per FSS recommendations, what is average 13,000 miles on sedans and 22,000 miles on Sprinters.
Sprinter engines have bigger oil pan, comparing to the same engine in sedan.
I am in contact with several new owners of MB diesels who I drove in the past.
2 of them passed 300k miles, the 2007 Bluetec passed 200k miles. Bluetec needed injector replacement, but other than that the engines run perfect.
Still my note was addressed to opinion that biodiesel creates problem. I drove several vehicles on B20 and I drove older MB diesel on 100% bio. Beside noticeable power drop, never had other issue. Even predicted fuel filter clog never happen.
And I always change oils per FSS recommendations, what is average 13,000 miles on sedans and 22,000 miles on Sprinters.
Sprinter engines have bigger oil pan, comparing to the same engine in sedan.
I am in contact with several new owners of MB diesels who I drove in the past.
2 of them passed 300k miles, the 2007 Bluetec passed 200k miles. Bluetec needed injector replacement, but other than that the engines run perfect.
I hated myself for changing those NOx sensors when they were out, should have gone the full deleted route. we don't have airbill in BC.
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The horror stories are about pricing, not really about reliability. I drove/drive those diesels for years and when 1 DPF failed at 180,000 miles and on other car NOx sensor, those are not numbers of parts that are higher than on gasoline cars. Lot of Bluetec Sprinters logged over 1/2 milion miles with minimal number of parts replaced.
It is the 3-4 grands part cost that makes owners scratching their heads.
Stupid DEF heater comes in very expensive assemble on cars, when Sprinters have it integrated in $3000 reservoir.
Still with some driver education and ScanGauge for monitoring for DPF regeneration and DEF level monitoring, those drivetrains last for high hundred thousands miles.
New DPF went from $3000 to $1500 and I hope they will last longer. Aftermarket kicked -in and offers new DPF as low as $600, when NOx probes sell for $70.
That sure can quiet some horrors.
It is the 3-4 grands part cost that makes owners scratching their heads.
Stupid DEF heater comes in very expensive assemble on cars, when Sprinters have it integrated in $3000 reservoir.
Still with some driver education and ScanGauge for monitoring for DPF regeneration and DEF level monitoring, those drivetrains last for high hundred thousands miles.
New DPF went from $3000 to $1500 and I hope they will last longer. Aftermarket kicked -in and offers new DPF as low as $600, when NOx probes sell for $70.
That sure can quiet some horrors.
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Uh, yeah it's real. I live in here in MN and B20 placards are on all the pumps.
FWIW, the state mandated bio blend in MN is really just a farm program to artificially support soy prices. I'm assuming that IL did it for the same reason.
FWIW, the state mandated bio blend in MN is really just a farm program to artificially support soy prices. I'm assuming that IL did it for the same reason.