What’s up guys, I have a 2008 E320 and my dpf is completely toast at 270k miles. The dpf is not sold anywhere in the U.S. for a price I’m comfortable with.

I might be able to get a dpf from Germany but the dpf is listed as euro 4 emission standard. Do you foresee any reason I can’t install this on my U.S. spec vehicle? We do not have emissions testing in my state, I’d expect a slight tune at most….

 

If $999 for US spec from forum sponsor is too much for you, I think you should change the car brand
https://wl-parts.com/product/mercede...te-filter-dpf/

 

Thanks for sharing I wasn’t aware it was a sponsored product here. Im waiting to see what my friends can find over there but will probably pull the trigger on this unit in the next couple weeks.

 

If blocked they can often be cleaned/restored to “like new”. Remove. Hang vertically. Pour in hot degreaser (e.g. heated simple green solution). Soak 1 hour. Empty. Pour in 1:4 dilution muriatic acid. Soak 2 hours. Flush and rinse. Install.

 

Appreciate the tip but my dpf ended up having a small melted core section. It was giving me false high backpressure and limp mode so I had an exhaust shop splice out the melted section only to restore drivability.

I have a CEL now for dpf sensor flow being off but I’ll be driving it like this a while until it gives me trouble again. That’s when I plan to buy the WL Dpf .

 

Thought that might be the case. It’s a transitional generation so there’s not a big market for it (and not even so easy to buy pulled from junker). I believe it’s North America only as well. The third party aftermarket manufacturer looks like a good source (and may be the only) at a fair price.

 

JY are not allowed to sell emission parts and they remove those parts before putting the car on yard.
I still think $1000 for major MB part is cheap.

 

Its not too expensive but I already had my current dpf cleaned within the past year, the codes were just due to the melted core section. I think it’ll be fine for a decent while…just drove 300miles with no CEL and 32mpg on highway, CEL is intermittent

 

How much did you pay for cleaning?
My local guys want $500, so having DPF with >100k miles on it and new part available for $999, it is no brainer for me.
I drive MB for lot of years as I did not enjoy cars, where you turn the key in the morning thinking
"What light will come on now? "
Good it works for you.

 

At the time I was uneducated on the car and was ripped off by an independent MB shop who removed it and had it shipped out for cleaning it was like 2500!! After the problem came back they got upset having to remove it again to splice it then told me they won’t ever work on my car again…pathetic but it only motivates me to keep learning I hardly let any one touch my cars now

 

Will you please update the forum with the total cost after you installed everything? I wonder what the labor and shop fee would total to.......

 

Sure thing, I plan to drive it as is a few OCI then have an exhaust shop install the WL unit. I’ll update once I follow through

 

999.99 for the part
275.00 for the labor, the new dpf needed an alteration on one of the outlets to fit properly

 

When did you buy new DPF?
I bought it from this forum sponsor for my OM651 engine and it fit like a glove. Since I did R & R about 3 times, with lift it become 20 minutes job.

 

I bought the dpf a couple weeks ago, it is a direct fit but was slightly off a few mm on just one port, probably a slight bend from either shipping or slight defect. I’m happy with it so far otherwise

 

Bolt on or weld?

 

MB is using ball-shaped joints for the exhaust. That combined with flex on the end makes for easy job.
The hardest part usually is breaking sensors loose. Even flare wrenches can round them, since the nut is soft metal. I also have designated O2 sensor wrenches, who do the same.
On 1 sensor I was able to slide the plug thru open wrench and put open wrench on it. On other I had to cut wires for open wrench.

 

It is a bolt on but they cut part of the outlet and rewelded it so it woul line up with the resonator and not leak. Luckily on my 2008 there were no sensors in the dpf itself just rubber lines on tubes leading to the dpf sensor.

 

How much MPG do you lose before you get an error code for the DPF (or limo mode)?

With 185k miles, if I have a fairly consistent 1 to 2 MPG drop, is it worth spending $800 on a new DPF?

 

That might be $800 question.
I heard Service Adviser opinion that DPF is wearable and suppose to be replaced every 60k miles.
Lot of DPF exceeded 200k miles, but my Sprinter (with much bigger DPF) regenerate every 120 miles , what is indication of partial clog. Regeneration cost extra fuel, but I do have AEM warranty and hope that sooner or later CEL will pop on the issue and I will get new DPF for no charge.
Without warranty, if I plan to keep the vehicle, I would spend $800 (I assume you DIY replacement?)
I consider $1000 small expense in owning MB. On Sprinter forum there is a topic that Seatle dealer charge $2000 for regular service on Sprinter.

 

At first my limp home mode was intermittent then became permanent the more I drove and the high mileage dpf began warping from heat. MPG dropped to about 14-17. With melted core section cut out it went to about 25mpg combined but the car would blow a lot of soot out the exhaust when hitting gas. I drove it about a year like that…

now with new dpf I get 30-33 highway 25-27 street.

I recommend you replace it soon as you are able (if keeping the car for some time). The car will keep trying to regenerate which means oil dilution. I had a code for high fuel injector output But no codes now with all adaptations reset

 

I was getting "no code" limo mode, but it ended up being (as far as I can tell) due to a bad differential pressure sensor.
Only showed up in cold wet weather.
Has never happened after replacing the sensor.

 

Yes, definitely try all the relevant sensors first for LHM. Better to gamble 50 bucks than outright spend the $800. The back pressure sensor can cause that same symptom.

I didn’t need a dpf until 265k miles, mostly highway. Yours should be fine for some time, I would stick to the 5-6k oil change interval.

I will be adding an oil catch can during my next one

 

This spring I may be doing so major underwood work.
I was waiting for one of the dredded problems such as stuck flaps, a dead flap motor, or a catastrophic oil cooler seal leak, but none have happened so might just start.
Plan is to add a ProVent oil separator, add a small truck diesel fuel filter/water separator, maybe add an oil pressure gauge, and maybe add a boost guage.

Thoughts on these mods would be helpful.
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