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Have a 2015 GL350 Diesel with Mercedes emission modification. went to start it yesterday and it spit out oil across my driveway from tire to tire. I shut it off and looked at it the next day oil underneath looks like it was leaking before I don't have the plastic water guard underneath never put it back since i did the oil filter housing in November. the crank shaft pulley started a weird sequel and get real hot just from idling shut it down. looks like the crankshaft pulley is rubbing because the front off it looks weird. Has anybody experience this? did the crank shaft pulley fail? Any Tips?
That looks like years of accumulated gunk with fresh oil on 1/2 of the engine.
Wash/wipe it, stuff some paper towels in suspected areas and restart engine to pinpoint the leak.
Just cleaned up all the oil and brought a new Harmonic balancer. Is there a Harmonic balancer tool to hold it in place?
Yes, there is. Google it as the tool is MY dependent.
Removing the center bolt is not easy job, so I hope you are up to task?
I am pretty strong man, yet I needed 5 foot pipe extension on 3/4" breaker bar.
Yes, there is. Google it as the tool is MY dependent.
Removing the center bolt is not easy job, so I hope you are up to task?
I am pretty strong man, yet I needed 5 foot pipe extension on 3/4" breaker bar.
It takes a boatload of torque to R&R the harmonic balance bolt.
You can get a holder (and section of heavy pipe for extension, and use a big breaker bar.
A couple of caveats:
- Since there are a number of balancers that will bolt up, you need to be certain you are ordering correct one. I ordered a 6-rib version first time, when I needed a 7-rib pulley.
- I checked the link in previous post, that item is compatible with a 271 motor (3.5 V6 gas) and may or may not fit a 642 motor pulley. You want to be sure, some pulleys are 6 spoke rather than I think 5.
I looked at getting a puller but instead got a really beefy Milwaukee cordless impact with a short frame. It delivers an honest 250+ ft-lbs.
I felt a lot more comfortable pulling the radiator than trying to pull against the puller.
I'm not at all worried about not putting a torque wrench on that bolt.
In retrospect I think I would have been fine reusing the bolt, though many swear it must be replaced - once you have it in hand you realize there's no way it could have really yielded with the 1st use.
And, absolutely no way you're going to damage the crank with the bolt.
It takes a boatload of torque to R&R the harmonic balance bolt.
You can get a holder (and section of heavy pipe for extension, and use a big breaker bar.
A couple of caveats:
- Since there are a number of balancers that will bolt up, you need to be certain you are ordering correct one. I ordered a 6-rib version first time, when I needed a 7-rib pulley.
- I checked the link in previous post, that item is compatible with a 271 motor (3.5 V6 gas) and may or may not fit a 642 motor pulley. You want to be sure, some pulleys are 6 spoke rather than I think 5.
I looked at getting a puller but instead got a really beefy Milwaukee cordless impact with a short frame. It delivers an honest 250+ ft-lbs.
I felt a lot more comfortable pulling the radiator than trying to pull against the puller.
I'm not at all worried about not putting a torque wrench on that bolt.
In retrospect I think I would have been fine reusing the bolt, though many swear it must be replaced - once you have it in hand you realize there's no way it could have really yielded with the 1st use.
And, absolutely no way you're going to damage the crank with the bolt.
Thanks for the reply.
I have A Milwaukee high torque impact gun I might go that route and pull the radiator. I checked the part its correct i might order a bolt just in case. Here is the part number for future reference if anybody needs it A 642-030-24-03
Last edited by pdf6666@aol.cxo; Apr 21, 2023 at 05:10 PM.
Let us know how the impact wrench works. I think for this job you'd need 3/4" size, but who knows?
Beware that you not suppose to turn the engine CCW as that can mess timing chain and other parts.
I think few degrees might be OK if that happens, but make sure you are not turning it too much.
Good point, katjek.
When I did it, backing the bolt didn't seem to move the motor at all - there's just so much inertial mass beyond the bolt.
If I'd have thought about it I might have let the motor cool off completely to add the stickiness of cold oil to make it more static. But I didn't.
Anyway, it was 2 years or more ago and nothing catastrophic so far, knock on wood!
I must admit I chose that route to keep from buying a tool I'd likely only use once.
Not that I haven't done that before!
Maybe its worth replacing for preventive maintenance for others. I have 115k, Its expensive but i guess major failure could be worse. glad it happened at the house.. Not a hard job. putting the belt back on always gets me confused...
Some MY about a decade ago has recalls on harmonic balancers, what is indication the the quality control dropped over the years.
I know that most of 35 yo of W123 are still on factory balancers.
Worth adding the check to each service.
++ on backsliding quality control.
It's a weird failure, from what I saw with mine the cushion/rubber layer between inner and outer pieces delaminated ant let the outer part (the pulley surface) move sideways out of the intended circle.
I thought how my TDI had similar isolator in the balancer and went 330K+ miles without issue.
OP, was there scoring of the front cover, where inner edge of pulley could contact the motor?
I didn't have that, I caught it before it got that bad.
From your original pictures and title, I figured you were going to need to replace it or JBWeld a gouge.
But then again, if you have any leaks from the hot side air conduits, muffler, oil filter housing,... the front of the motor can get messy looking.
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but i'm stuck here. I got the bolt off and i'm trying to pull the pulley with a 3 arm puller and it's not budging and i dont' want to damage anything. How did you get the pulley off the crankshaft?
Originally Posted by pdf6666@aol.cxo
Got if off with my milwaukee gun, just had to take out the electric fans. Came off without a struggle. The old one failed.
Really, vibration should make it slide out. Tap sharply on the outer part of the pulley alternately on opposite sides.
If you have a deadblow hammer it's recommended probably.
It should slide off very easily once you break the initial resistance but if it sticks you may need a puller to hook over the edges.
I think I ran the bolt in and then backed it out1/4 to 1/2 inch our so, then used a big 3-arm puller.
*Put down a centering divot into the top of the bolt before running it in, so the puller doesn't wander.
Thanks to the OP for all the really good pictures - it shows just how well the accessories and intake plumbing can conspire to make a greasy mess
, over, under, around and behind the assembled complexity of the motor's frontside.
From what I recall doing mine, the balancer/crank pulley prevents damage to the fr. main seal.
I just re-skimmed over the thread and I don't think the O.P. needed to replace that seal.
However, if yours has failed hard enough for the ribbed outer section to wobble so bad it gouges the front cover (see the pictures again)
, you'll need to decide whether to replace the front timing cover.
Do you hear the pulley scraping?
Seems like if you started it with the climate control / AC active, the serpentine belt would be loaded enough at idle you would be able to see the wobble and hear any such noise.
With the belt and intake out of the way, you'll see where the oil is actually coming from.
I would think the seal would only be necessary if you decide to replace the front cover.
Thanks to the OP for all the really good pictures - it shows just how well the accessories and intake plumbing can conspire to make a greasy mess
, over, under, around and behind the assembled complexity of the motor's frontside.
From what I recall doing mine, the balancer/crank pulley prevents damage to the fr. main seal.
I just re-skimmed over the thread and I don't think the O.P. needed to replace that seal.
However, if yours has failed hard enough for the ribbed outer section to wobble so bad it gouges the front cover (see the pictures again)
, you'll need to decide whether to replace the front timing cover.
Do you hear the pulley scraping?
Seems like if you started it with the climate control / AC active, the serpentine belt would be loaded enough at idle you would be able to see the wobble and hear any such noise.
With the belt and intake out of the way, you'll see where the oil is actually coming from.
I would think the seal would only be necessary if you decide to replace the front cover.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Sounds good it just started dripping this week and luckily no squeal or rattle just oil everywhere. Just did the AC compressor idler rollers belt 2 weeks ago and it was so nice and clean when done, now this is a big mess. I should be good to just replace the pulley., let's hope! Thanks for the reply
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