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Oil cooler seals leaking were a problem until they upgraded (I forget the year that those were upgraded it may have been before 2012). Cheap part but a lot of labor to access them.
Timing chain getting some slack and eventually slapping, skipping or breaking. Don’t ignore noises.
Emissions systems can be finicky with most modern diesels equipped with DPF and DEF systems. If you frequent short trips, you should get the vehicle to operating temperature and actually drive it a while on a regular basis. DPFs can get clogged if they don’t have the opportunity to regenerate.
Don’t use more than 5% biodiesel. Some motors have met their end to oil sludge but the cause is not always clear. Might be a combination of biodiesel, or low quality/dirty diesel, or improper oil. Oil choice is a Pandora’s box.
Also, check to make sure the emissions recall was done. It extends some parts of warranty for X years and XX miles from when it was performed.
Last edited by Panzerknacker; 06-27-2023 at 06:47 PM.
Oil cooler seals leaking were a problem until they upgraded (I forget the year that those were upgraded it may have been before 2012). Cheap part but a lot of labor to access them.
Timing chain getting some slack and eventually slapping, skipping or breaking. Don’t ignore noises.
Emissions systems can be finicky with most modern diesels equipped with DPF and DEF systems. If you frequent short trips, you should get the vehicle to operating temperature and actually drive it a while on a regular basis. DPFs can get clogged if they don’t have the opportunity to regenerate.
Don’t use more than 5% biodiesel. Some motors have met their end to oil sludge but the cause is not always clear. Might be a combination of biodiesel, or low quality/dirty diesel, or improper oil. Oil choice is a Pandora’s box.
Also, check to make sure the emissions recall was done. It extends some parts of warranty for X years and XX miles from when it was performed.
. Thanks for the reply I really appreciate it. The emissions problems aren’t a concern for me because I’m planning on deleting it. I more want to know about the other stuff
One more is the swirl flap motor which can malfunction from oil seepage at the turbo inlet.
It could possibly be something you end up deleting anyhow if you modify the vehicle.
I would probably modify mine but I purchased an extended warranty so I’ll leave as is for now.
Don't let the doomsayers get you down I am enjoying my GL350 quite a bit and have been a long time diesel passenger car owner over a number of Volkswagen TDI series. They have their quirks but the torque is addicting and the fuel efficiency is nice especially now that diesel prices have fallen back to the same or lower than regular.
What country?
In America those engines had bluetec settlement and after MB modifications they do have extended warranty.
Worth checking as on my Sprinter with >200,000 miles the warranty just covered $5000 repair.
I would ditto 2.1l recommendations, but 3l engine still is good performer, although higher maintenance one.
I have 2.1l in my GLE and it has to drop lot of gears while towing.
The 3l in Sprinter tows just fine without much gear hunting.
Oh please.
Not preaching, happy owner of a '13 bluetec, and recognizer of cheap insurance.
Tell me there's no issues with sludge on these engines and thus render yourself irrelevant. Changing oil is easy and worth it.
Driving the engine like the diesel it is would also be highly recommended. Short trips are bad, long trips are good.
Oh, and change your oil.
So, engine sludge. When it does happen,
What causes it?
Never experienced it and I have DL since carbureted engines.
From what I read, good oil takes about 100,000 miles of driving to develop sludge, then I had coworker over 20 years ago, who drove Nissan pickup without oil change. At 140,000 the pickup still run strong.
So my conclusion is, that it takes wrong oil and huge negligence to see sludge.
I've never had diesel fuel gel in my lifetime, and I've been running diesels for 20+ years in winters that easily get down to 30 below zero. Does that mean it doesn't happen? Your reasoning says yes, that is what it means.
It's easily prevented by putting the proper additives.
Preventing oil sludging is easy too. Does that mean it can't happen?
I'm honestly not sure why you're choosing to die on this hill; there are plenty of threads out there that clearly show the 642 has this as a known (and preventable) issue.
You yourself clearly state that you monitor your regens closely and take precautions to make sure they go through completely. What do you suppose might happen if you just did short trips and didn't care about what the engine needs?
At any rate, you do you.
The OM642 series engines in the early to mid 2010 GLs are known to have sludging issues that are unusual in terms of early mileage. More frequent oil changes than recommended would help but these engines are not ideal if used for short trip city driving.
I think a 2012 GL350 is a bad bet on many fronts, the vehicle has proven to have numerous long term reliability issues.
But FYI, I still drive my 2014 GL350 and it's OK. I am having to replace the transfer case chain and a bad axle this week but that is expected at 100,000 miles. However when I change oil I am only getting about 6-6.5 quarts out instead of the 8 I would expect, indicating I have sludging issues.
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
A diesel engine that does DPF regens the same way Mercedes implemented theirs (i.e, by using the engine injectors to squirt in the fuel during the exhaust cycle instead of having a separate injector for the DPF) in any vehicle driven in any place that uses more than B5 at the most is a bad idea. Biodiesel has higher lubricity that dinosaur juice diesel and ends up getting past the piston rings - especially during the DPF regen cycle - and ends in the oil sump, resulting in said sludge. Add to that the fact that diesels are really built to be "worked hard", not driven as grocery getters and/or for short trips, and you have your answer.
The latest MB 229.52 spec oils *help* with the oil oxidation stability and dilution, but if your pumps put out B20 they way they do in a number of US states, a diesel is not the right vehicle. If you live somewhere in Europe where the pumps are dispensing diesel with no more than 5% biodiesel content and you use and maintain the car the way it should be - and key here is that it had to be properly used and maintained since day one, not just after you buy it following 11 years of (ab)use - they are reliable.
A diesel engine that does DPF regens the same way Mercedes implemented theirs (i.e, by using the engine injectors to squirt in the fuel during the exhaust cycle instead of having a separate injector for the DPF) in any vehicle driven in any place that uses more than B5 at the most is a bad idea. Biodiesel has higher lubricity that dinosaur juice diesel and ends up getting past the piston rings - especially during the DPF regen cycle - and ends in the oil sump, resulting in said sludge. Add to that the fact that diesels are really built to be "worked hard", not driven as grocery getters and/or for short trips, and you have your answer.
The latest MB 229.52 spec oils *help* with the oil oxidation stability and dilution, but if your pumps put out B20 they way they do in a number of US states, a diesel is not the right vehicle. If you live somewhere in Europe where the pumps are dispensing diesel with no more than 5% biodiesel content and you use and maintain the car the way it should be - and key here is that it had to be properly used and maintained since day one, not just after you buy it following 11 years of (ab)use - they are reliable.
Most diesel pumps don’t make it obvious what their biodiesel content is. It is often some small writing on some obscure faded sticker that you have to look for.
I’ve had the nozzle in the vehicle on my bluetec and caught the %20 biodiesel sign before I started pumping, so this is an easy mistake to make even for owners that know the difference.
Besides the diesel engine comments mentioned above, look for water intrusion in the front passenger footwell and rear under the spare. If there is ANY water, run away. The GL's are known for water intrusion issues and can wreak havoc. That's what happened to my GL450 after more than 15 years of ownership and close to 300k miles, and it totaled the car.
Most diesel pumps don’t make it obvious what their biodiesel content is. It is often some small writing on some obscure faded sticker that you have to look for.
I’ve had the nozzle in the vehicle on my bluetec and caught the %20 biodiesel sign before I started pumping, so this is an easy mistake to make even for owners that know the difference.
As easy as filling up gasoline when you don't pay attention.
Up to B5 bio in US doesn't require any additional signs on the pump, but B20 is mandatory.
OP did not come back to tell if the car was bought.
For GL class and OM642, maintenance history, what has been replace before is important. The engine is complicated and sensitive, not as DIY friendly as other NA gas engine. Common engine bits that haven't been replace yet will need to be replace, for example EGR value, engine sensors, oil cooler seal, etc...
Reliability for an aging modern Mercedes is a relative term. How much pain/time can owner tolerate to keep it running. OM642 is relatively reliable (I currently own 2 long term), but when something breaks, costly and time consuming to repair. Not many indy mechanic are familiar with it. If you are in North America, the Diesel AEM recall provides extra few years of factory warranty for most of the engine parts, complete list is available online. air suspension and other sensors fail also.
On reliability, my x166 entered limp mode a few times around town, once on long camping trip. On that camping trip, I took a chance and limped 300 miles home (not easy to pull up to dealer and fix OM642 in a few hours, parts availability). In Limp mode GL would max out at 45-50 MpH up hill, not fun when big rig pass you going uphill. Limp mode going downhill or flat is fine, can cruise at 70-80MpH.
These are so cheap because large number owners are willing to cut the pain. There is a smaller number of owners still love and hang on to them. Comparable model of Land cruiser or Lexus LX would be considered reliable, however these are trunk platform. I did get rid of a 2014 LX570 because of ride quality. Then wife chose the GL350 with Designo package with pretty much all available options. Interior still looks close to new at 98K mile.
Prioritize maintenance records, check diesel system, and suspension, and have a mechanic inspect for reliability assurance. Hey, friends! Are you short on money? Visit this https://triceloans.com/personal-loans-iowa/ website. Financial hurdles can be overcome with personal loans in Iowa. Explore your options, from unsecured loans to those requiring collateral. Prioritize your credit score, and take the time to compare lenders to secure the funds you need.
Last edited by HelenaNash; 08-18-2023 at 03:13 AM.
06-27-2023, 05:56 PM
