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I have a 2011 ML350 Blutec Diesel and I have cleaned the DPF and then found the turbo was seized, so I just replaced it. Now with everything back together it starts for a short time and then quits. It was also doing this when the DPF was clogged. Please see the attached video, maybe some of the sounds are familiar?. Also no codes have changed since before the turbo replacement.
You mentioned that the codes haven't changed... what codes are you getting? Look up what they mean, as well. That should at least start you down the right path.
They were concerning the turbo underboost and DPF back pressure. These are permanent until I can start driving it.
I did replace the turbo and had the DPF cleaned.
Sounds like your scanner is not having capabilities to clear specific codes.
If clog DPF code is still there, the computer will shut off the engine to protect it.
They were concerning the turbo underboost and DPF back pressure. These are permanent until I can start driving it.
I did replace the turbo and had the DPF cleaned.
I'm not aware of any codes that can't be cleared by a proper scanner - you may just need a better scanner?
Much appreciated points guys.
I have the ICarsoft MB v3.0 scanner, but sounds like I need a better one?
Could it be accomplished by unplugging the battery for a few days?
Battery disconnected worked on 1980's models
There is designated scanner section (that this forum lack) on Sprinter forum and last reviews show ThinkDiag on top of the list, with AP/HT200 right behind it.
Cheap enough to not have 2nd thoughts.
15 years ago that level of scanner would cost you 4-digits FOR A CLONE.
I also own iCarsoft scanner, but the only good part of it is that it works without subscription and has own screen. Too many times it would give me false confirmations to take it seriously. It is annoyingly slow to top it.
I have a 2011 ML350 Blutec Diesel and I have cleaned the DPF and then found the turbo was seized, so I just replaced it. Now with everything back together it starts for a short time and then quits. It was also doing this when the DPF was clogged. Please see the attached video, maybe some of the sounds are familiar?. Also no codes have changed since before the turbo replacement.
Please help......
This should be covered by the Bluetec Emissions warranty. I would let MB take care of it.
Not sure what caused it, but my DPF was so clogged they had to burn it twice.
When I took the turbo off, I noticed there was an oil leak and the larger drain hole looked like plastic oil but was not plugged.
Here are the codes I pulled. I tried to erase, but it will not.
Thoughts?? Still starts, but wont stay running.
I did notice when I went through several starts my radiator fans came on.
Type in your VIN on the Bluetec update website, link is in post #10.
If the Bluetec update has been done it will give you the warranty information. You already mentioned that the turbo was bad - that is covered parts and labor. Let Mercedes figure this out before you completely void that warranty.
Could this be battery/electrical now. While trying to start the bat goes down pretty quick even on a charger. The radiator fans start running and eventually my clock runs backwards...
While trying to start the bat goes down pretty quick even on a charger.
Can you quantify that?
But, sure, low battery power (amps, not just volts) can cause all sorts of things. Remove the battery, charge it fully, load test it.
Or... and this isn't always a definitive test, but... after fully charged measure the voltage at the battery. Start the engine the engine (or even if it just cranks a couple times - that's all you need), then immediately stop it. Remove the negative cable right away. Give it a minute and then measure V again right at the battery.
Last edited by DennisG01; Dec 15, 2023 at 02:18 PM.
I tried reading the voltage, but my meter is a needle, not digital.
I undid the battery and charged it for three days.
Tried starting three times with same results. (Start 5sec, stop)
Using the OBD I could check the voltage, it was at 11.7 after 3 try's and dropped down to 11.4. I tried starting again and got clicks.
So looks like I need a new battery?
My rail pressure is at 8 bar read from the OBD when engine not running. It did say the fuel pump was off (Is that a concern?)
How old is the battery? A fully charged battery should read about 12.6 volts. Why can't you read it with your analog meter? What does the needle point to? The ODB voltage is not the battery open circuit (everything off) voltage.
Charge the battery and have it load tested. Any parts store that sells batteries should be able to test it for you.
The battery is only 2 years old and not an "MB" battery. With the needle meter I was getting 12v.
I'm thinking all the times of trying to start might (hoping) have stressed this one.
After 3 days of charge with it disconnected from the car, I could only get 4 start attempts.
It has been said multiple times but bears repeating (or at least you responding to):
Check and see if it is covered by the AEM warantee. Quit messing with it if it is.
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