Krypton_Blaze

Originally posted in GL forum but was told I am singing in the wrong party and should head over to diesel forum

TL;DR: Goto the questions at the end of this post.

Seized Engine-Fixed
I bought a 2013 GL350 that was fixed and sold to me by a mechanic who bought the car with seized engine. I have 8k kms since I bought it and apart from crankshaft pulley not tightened to specs, everything else is great so far. Crankshaft pulley was fixed by a mechanic who ONLY deals with OM642 engines in Toronto (yeah, this mechanic makes enough dough just working on these engines - its telling :P).

Delete (semi): VladimirCDI
I didn't want a FULL delete, so I opted for EGR/Swirl Flaps/DEF delete and kept the DPF (for now at least). I didn't want to deal with the smell. The delete I have can be reverted back to original software if need be. The records indicate AEM performed on this vehicle in 04/2022. There is warranty on parts other than emissions, so why not be able to utilize them if need be and that was my reasoning for going with a reversible delete even if it cost me 30% more than local delete shops. I have 3 different versions of this delete.

1. Max HP and torque gains (Excluding DPF)- This version is addicting. But I did notice my fuel rail pressure stays high with this and although it might be just in my head but I don't like the idea of fuel mixing in the oil too much. Drove roughly 5000 kms with this tune. Currently not using it and waiting for Blackstone lab results on this tune after 3500kms from oil change.
2. Mid HP and torque gains (Excluding DPF)- Gives better fuel economy than the other 2 software versions. But tbh, i haven't driven with this tune much to say anything positive or negative about it.
3. Delete Only tune. Turns off emissions (excluding DPF) but keeps the rest of the vehicle stock. This is what I am currently running for the past ~1000kms until I get the oil analysis lab results. I don't drive fast because I have a 96 Trans Am with bored heads that can scratch my itch if I need to go fast. I drive this SUV like a grandpa. I cruise and sometimes even hit 3L/100km going between 60-80km/h, so this version of tune is fine unless oil analysis report paints a rosy picture on tune #1 which is what I am waiting for.

Engine Oil:
Whatever I had in the block when I bought the car was removed and I added Rotella T6 5w40. Drove it 4000kms and then drained it and added Liqui Moly 4110 (22.9.52) which is currently in the engine. The only way the oil level comes down is due to my obsessive oil checking. I must have wiped off a quart of oil by checking it too much.
There is way less soot in the oil since EGR is blocked. This is my first Diesel or Benz so I was surprised how thin the oil is. From how the oil was before tune to now, the difference is night and evening (not quite day yet). Before the tune, it was just midnight black, like blackhole black, like nightmare black. Since the tune, I can tell that whatever soot is there is the residue and will take many more oil change to completely clean. I don't want to flush either. Let the engine clean itself gradually. Drained 8L at the first (to me) oil change. Didn't measure after draining T6 but will measure again at next oil change at around 10k km mark.


Preventive Maintenance:
So far, I have done the following:

PCV replaced with Mercedes original (DIY)
Turbo orange oring - Mercedes original (DIY)
Engine Air Filters - After market (DIY)
Cabin Air Filters - After market (DIY)
Oil/Filter change - Mahle/LM 4110 (DIY)
Oil Filter Housing - Updated PN by MB (DIY)
Liqui Moly Diesel System Cleaner
Liqui Moly DPF protector
Liqui Moly Ceratec

Preventive Maintenance: Pending
Fuel Filter replacement
Transmission Fluid/filter
Coolant flush

Scanner
Using Autel AP200 to track DPF regenerations. It says that you can do manual regen with it but its not true. Maybe due to tune ? but Autel errors out when you try to get into DPF section of the software.

Fuel
I use Shell V-Max Diesel exclusively. Only used LM Diesel cleaners in the beginning and don't plan on using other fuel additives since I trust the Shell V-Max diesel to do the cleaning.

Driving Style:
I don't Italian tune it. Although, I did once, while observing LIVE DATA on the scanner. The DPF% went down from 15% to 11%. So I know it works but also does the regular regen.
Mostly city driving to work (12 km one way), then home, then kids to their activity not too far either. On weekends, maybe 100km trip to somewhere. Once a month, maybe a 500km round trip. Once or twice a year 2000 km round trips.
Normally, it is city driving and I don't have a heavy foot. Windows down and I like to hear the engine. That's my music. Not even a radio plays. Just diesel humming is enough music for my ears.

QUESTIONS:
Trust me when I say this but I have read pretty much every post that has existed on these engines/X166 available in English on google. That is why I bought/performed the maintenance that I have BUT there is very little info on the TYPE of OIL to be used with a delete like mine, where there is NO EGR but DPF is still there.
1. Is it still necessary to use 229.52 with EGR deleted? I do like Liqui Moly / Fuchs oils so I don't mind running 229.52 but if it is trying to clean something that isn't there coz of the tune then is it overkill?
2. In Canada, max B5 is on Shell. Should I still be worried about oxidation/gelling/carbon buildup?
3. And now the last question: Seeing how far I am with maintenance, what else would you recommend to keep this engine humming along for years and years. I am a DIYer so I would rather spend $500 on a tool than paying a mechanic but I know some jobs are better left to a professional.

jkaetz

We have a 2011 OM642 with 170k on it. It sees mixed local/highway driving. It's had the oil cooler and two timing chains replaced. The 2nd chain required an engine out and timing cover off repair as the teeth on the balance shaft were eaten away too much for the chain to engage properly. I've done all the oil changes, started with a valvoline 5-40 229.51, then switched to Motul 8100 EFE 5-30 229.52 after the first timing chain. OCIs were 10k for the first 70k miles, then after the first timing chain I shortened them to 7k and air filters every 10k instead of 20. AEM done at ~150k. No oil consumption between changes. I've read about the issues of ring sealing due to buildup but no real solid evidence that a specific oil or OCI will prevent the problem. I want to see some more people test the new Valvoline restore and protect to verify that it actually does what they claim without a whole bunch of detergents. It seems the biggest downside of running oils that don't conform to MB's low SAPS requirement is DPF trouble. But if oil starts getting consumed at a high rate the DPF will fail anyway so who knows.

Krypton_Blaze

Sounds like you have been maintaining your vehicle well and still had the timing chain issues. Honestly, it might be the oil viscosity/additives that sacrifice timing chain to keep DPF happy. Timing chain is covered under AEM warranty so were you able to get it done by the dealer under warranty? I am keeping DPF on for another 2 years until the warranty expires and then might consider hollowing it out and going with the 229.3 or 229.5 diesel oils.
Oil seals and all injectors were replaced right before I purchased the vehicle so hopefully I don't have to worry about those for a while.
Ring sealing (as per my limited research) issue can be blamed on the soot from EGR and the oil oxidizing/gelling. But ring seals buildup is always a symptom of oil consumption and you have stated that you are NOT losing oil between changes. Some oil consumption is expected. If you look into your owner's manual, MB even states that 800ml is to be expected every 10k kms. YMMV though.
I have watched some videos on Valvoline restore and it looks promising. Maybe even a flush can reduce/eliminate any small buildup?
For your concern regarding valvoline not being MB spec, if you are not losing oil and your PCV is in good health, it might be worth while to try it. Maybe add LM DPF protector for that duration since it lowers the temp required to burn off soot in the DPF.

jkaetz

At one point I was told the chain was a "wear item".

I got some good will assistance on the first chain but the 2nd was all on me and done by a quality independent shop. The AEM wasn't a thing yet. The first chain started making noise before the initial factory warranty was up but I didn't realize what it was and it was super intermittent. By the time it was obvious and repeatable we were at 70k and I had seen other reports by this time. In hindsight I probably should have been taking it to them regularly to look for the noise and let them tell me they could duplicate the concern so it was on record before the warranty expired.

Now that we have the GLS the ML is seeing more local use but also regularly sees highway miles. I'd like it to make it another couple years until our third child is out of day care and then we will likely be in a place that it can be replaced with a '23ish GLE when the time comes. Given that the DPF is new as of the AEM in 2022 I would hope it will be good to go for a while even with other oils. OTOH all current diesels have a DPF and I have a hard time imagining that any of the current diesel oils would cause DPF issues without other underlying issues.

John CC

My 2014 only requires 228.51 oil. Yours probably does, too. You can get real Diesel engine oils that meet 228.51 and CK-4. That's what I would (do) use. Here are two available in the US:
Chevron Delo XLE 15w-40, 10W-30
Shell Rotella 550046251 T6 Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle 5W-30

tjts1

The low viscosity esp oils are killing the timing chains and rings on these engines. There's no reason not to use a real diesel oil at this point. All modern diesels have DPF just like the 642.

Carcheologist

You seem like you're on top of things. My only advice is to keep an eye on DPF Regen frequency. Our 2010 ML350 set a code for regen frequency when the DPF started getting plugged. I figured I would just wait for the AEM since it's covered. What I didn't realize is that the constant regens would wash the cylinders and now I have oil burning.

It runs fine other than oil consumption, so I'm trying to Valvoline Restore and Protect to see if cleaning up the rings helps. If it doesn't at some point in the next year I will probably trade it in, but I'm happy adding oil every once in a while since everything is still ok.

We don't drive a ton, which is part of the reason I'm ok limping it along for a while (and we have other backup cars) but that also means it might take a few months to see any results from the Valvoline Restore and Protect.

jkaetz

Curious to hear your results and if the Restore and Protect can do anything for it. It's certainly cheap enough to try.