I accidentally used as opposed to motor oil.

Both are fully synthetic and SAE 5W-30, but only the European conforms to MB 229.52.

Should I a) replace, or b) simply shorten the oil change interval, say 2500 miles, or c) leave it until regular oil change at 5000 miles?

Thank you!

 

I'll take peace of mind for $120, Alex.
Change it and you'll not have to worry about it. Side benefit: The cleanest oil your engine has had in a long time.
AND
I bet you won't do it again. Education is rarely free.

 

Thank you. I understand the peace of mind argument.
I am looking for a more technical answer. I.e. what exactly is the importance of the MB 229.52 specification and what properties, and it what cases does it matter? I.e. it may only matter in very hot outside temperatures and high stress.

 

The wrong oil will clog your DPF much faster and possibly damage it. This is due to high SAPS.

 

The oil in there now doesn't carry any Diesel ratings, so it's not just the DPF you need to worry about. It is not formulated to deal with the soot levels found in a Diesel. (I would) Change it now. You can skip the filter change, but, loosen the filter cap completely and the oil in the filter will drain out with everything else.

 

I wasn't able to read the label but does the European version state on the label it conforms?
I've been having a hard time finding oil for my MB diesel.

 

 

The best for it is 229.52 classification. Here is link to Motul, or Valvoline is having occasional sales as well and if you don't like internet orders, you can order it at local store.
Beware that amazon link with Valvoline covers several different oils and not all of them are 229.52 classification.

 

I am surprised the one guy nobody likes hasn't come on here to tell you to use big rig truck oil

 

No one will like this answer, but given the age of the 229.52 spec, the current API SP rating (which both Valvoline SKUs are) likely covers it diesel or not. MB has specified 229.52 in most of its engines, gas & diesel, for years. Plenty of people will even claim that 229.52 is a gasoline formulated oil being used in the MB diesels and as noted upthread diesel owners should switch to a "diesel" formulated oil. Having the MB and other euro manufacturer stamps on it simply allows them to charge more for people who want "peace of mind". OP will have to make the ultimate decision on whether the 229.52 spec is so wildly different from the API SP spec that it needs to be changed out right away.

Given the age of the thread, what did you decide to do OP?

 

OP bought a Toyota and completely forgot this thread exists 😂

 

I've been using MB 229.52 forever (Pennzoil Euro LX 0W30). I'm sitting at 230k miles (367 000 km) and my 2013 ML350 Bluetec is still going strong. 10 000 km (6-7k miles) oil change intervals. Doesn't burn a drop of oil and minimal blowby. Runs like a dream.

My 2 cents.

 

I've also used various 229.51 and 52 oils in our 2011 with a similar OCI and at 175k it seems to be in a similar state as yours. No oil consumption (though plenty of external oil leaks) and still running well. Just saying I think a quality API SP oil isn't going to cause instant death simply because it doesn't have an MB certification.

 

Putting in 5W30 instead of 5W30 European I doubt you will notice a difference.

But im not an expert on oil which is why I only use the products that meet the specific MB specs on the bottles so I dont have to worry if im using the right stuff.

If it were me I would change out the oil for the MB spec oil, keep the used oil for my lawn mower and snow blower. It wouldnt go to waste.

 

Uh you won't destroy anything but the european formula is designed for extended drain intervals and clean running to work with the emissions equipment on the vehicles, diesel or gasoline for the full factory drain interval and then some. There are people out there who have just run 5w30 Mobil1 for years without problems ANECDOCTALLY. Hell there are people who have only ever used Shell Rotella regardless of what it says to use.

I'm assuming based on what I just said which is backed by MB, it's just not going to run clean and its going to cook some of the oil off and leave soot behind.. doing it for one oil change isn't gonna hurt anything short term but I would just change it out because you went on the MB forum and asked for proper advice. I can't give you the wrong advice just cuz I THINK everything will be fine.

 

When I used Shell Rotella on older diesels, and actually its dino version gave better lab results, than synthetic, I did not hear about owners using it on DPF and DEF -equipped diesels.
The rumors say, such oil will accelerate DPF clogging. Sure, people who don't drive a lot, might not care what will happen to the engine above 100,000 miles.
Same with Mobil1, who even after changing the formula few years ago, still generate high iron wear.
Just like above, owners who don't plan to keep their vehicle past 100k miles, might not worry about it.

 

Thought I would post here that I have a case of Mobil1 ESP Formula M 5w-40 I don't need. It was shipped to me by mistake and the seller did not want to pay for the return shipping. 6 unopened quarts with the box.
So it didn't cost me anything. If someone here has any interest, shoot me a PM and we can work something out.

 

Just looked it up, interesting oil for anyone looking for a 229.51 approved 5w-40
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ormula-m-5w-40

 

Well I only had one forum member ask about the oil and he was too far away to ship it economically.
Seems a shame but I guess if nobody else is close enough to pick it up, I will just go ahead and put it in the old lawnmower.

 

Dang, that seems like a waste (unless your lawn mower's got a DPF lol)

I don't have a DPF myself but that's still good oil, sending you a DM.