Knocking/banging noise when reversing
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Mercedes Coupe E350 CDI
Knocking/banging noise when reversing
hi, I have a c207 2010, the car was involved in an accident but main damage was over the post and drivers door, car is all repaired now but i'm hearing a very loud knocking noise coming from the front drivers side wheel. This only happens when in full lock to the right and in reverse. i cannot figure out the problem. Any suggestions please???
Thanks
Thanks
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Mercedes Coupe E350 CDI
hi, thanks for the reply, i had the suspension leg/shock checked by mechanic and it seems ok, replaced the wishbone and hub, still not sure where this noise is coming from. There is no noise when moving forward, only on full lock to the right when reversing. The mechanic had the wheel alignment done and tracking was apparently done, however, when moving in a straight line, the steering wheel isn't straight, i would say it is more like positioned at 1 o'clock. i thought that maybe it needs tracking but the report says everything is fine. A little bit baffled...
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Mercedes Coupe E350 CDI
hey all, i also read that the GL's had a similar problem as well, however, good news! i think we found the culprit. seen as the knocking/banging noise happens when its on full lock to the right, my mechanic said that the pressure will be mostly on the wishbone passenger side...so we put it on the ramp and checked that side and found the wishbone upper arm was loose a little around the bushing area...so gonna get hold of a new bush and try that. Hopefully that sorts the problem out, everything else seems fine. touch wood...
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2010 E350 4Matic
I have heard that these cars has issues with the suspension strut
toward the end of the thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-c...new-owner.html
toward the end of the thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-c...new-owner.html
Last edited by MBNUT1; 12-05-2013 at 06:39 PM.
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Mercedes Coupe E350 CDI
yeah thanks for that, just had a read of it. Its a shame that we spend so much money on these cars only to have to run around and fix problems that just shouldn't be there in the first place
#9
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these are parts to check for front suspension noises
Shock absorbers 2 204-323-30-00 waranty
Dust cap 2 204-323-04-38 waranty
Hydromount 2 204-333-11-14 waranty
Elastomeric cap 4 211-333-06-97 waranty
Bront bearing adjustment both sides DIY
Hood mounts lubed DIY
I believe front struts mounts should be replaced together with struts as well
Already talked to dealer he promised to check it out next time
Shock absorbers 2 204-323-30-00 waranty
Dust cap 2 204-323-04-38 waranty
Hydromount 2 204-333-11-14 waranty
Elastomeric cap 4 211-333-06-97 waranty
Bront bearing adjustment both sides DIY
Hood mounts lubed DIY
I believe front struts mounts should be replaced together with struts as well
Already talked to dealer he promised to check it out next time
Last edited by champaign777; 12-07-2013 at 02:49 PM.
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Mercedes Coupe E350 CDI
hey everyone guess what! the problem was the tracking after all! :S it turns out the previous mechanic did not do the tracking properly. Took it to ATS, got the tracking done and its been perfect since! still keeping an eye out on it just in case but so far its been ok
#12
i think i have the same noise as you describe. what is this tracking you are referring too?
#15
so i just got back from the dealership. they say they think its cause of my brakes...
so i have a bent wheel on the front drivers side. which causes some vibrations of course.
and that led to bad rotors and so on from braking when vibrating.
does this make sense? bad brakes leading to clunking noises on bumps at slow speeds?
anywaise they telling me to get new pads and rotors.
so i have a bent wheel on the front drivers side. which causes some vibrations of course.
and that led to bad rotors and so on from braking when vibrating.
does this make sense? bad brakes leading to clunking noises on bumps at slow speeds?
anywaise they telling me to get new pads and rotors.
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Mercedes Coupe E350 CDI
Yeah I do mean the wheel alignment...because they were not aligned, on full lock it was putting more pressure on the bushing. Mechanic explained it a little better. The wheels have a range of movement, however when they are offset that range has now gone beyond its normal parameters so therefor when full locking to the right it was forcing the movement as it is beyond its limit. All I know is that I haven't experienced the issues since. So I'm happy with it.