Upgraded Renntech tune M278 now produces 540 HP and 705 LB-FT at crank
Product page: http://renntechmercedes.com/index.ph...22-s550-detail
Our proprietary ECU upgrade for the Mercedes M278 Biturbo engine offers huge gains in performance across the entire RPM range without sacrificing around town comfort or daily driver reliability.
With the newest update of their Software Upgrade for the M278 – 4.7L V8 BiTurbo, RENNtech boosts the 550-Series to AMG Power Levels. The RENNtech upgraded M278 now produces 540 HP and 705 LB-FT at crank.
Compared to power numbers by Mercedes-Benz, the S 550 gains up to 66 HP and 139 LB-FT. This Software update delivers up to 10 HP and 99 LB-FT more than the previous version.
The vast amount of increased torque across the entire RPM range gives the 550 an extra edge to compete with AMG powered vehicles. All this without sacrificing around town comfort and daily driver reliability.
W222 - S 550 – M278 | 4.7L V8 BiTurbo Stock Performance:
•Rated by Mercedes-Benz: 449 HP @ 5,250-5,550 RPM | 516 LB-FT @ 1,800-3,500 RPM
•Rated by RENNtech: 474 HP @ 4,900 RPM | 566 LB-FT @ 2,350-3,650 RPM
W222 - S 550 – M278 | 4.7L V8 BiTurbo RENNtech Upgraded Performance:
*Applies to all Models, crank power calculation based on 17% Drivetrain loss on 4-MATIC models
•Rated by RENNtech: 540 HP @ 4,500 RPM | 705 LB-FT @ 2,850-3,450 RPM
448 awhp @ 4,500 RPM | 585 awtq @ 2,850-3,450 RPM
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Obviously if you're concerned with long-term reliability or longevity of your car, you have to go into this with your eyes wide open to all the potential trade-offs. As they say, you have to ne able to pay to play. If you're only going to keep your car for a year or two or until something major fails and then quickly try to sell it to someone else, then of course long-term reliability and longevity isn't a big issue for you.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Obviously if you're concerned with long-term reliability or longevity of your car, you have to go into this with your eyes wide open to all the potential trade-offs. As they say, you have to ne able to pay to play. If you're only going to keep your car for a year or two or until something major fails and then quickly try to sell it to someone else, then of course long-term reliability and longevity isn't a big issue for you.
When you tune a car, you're trading against that "reliability bank", so that's not a myth. Where the myth comes in is bad math. Let's say we're making another 50 WHP with the tune- the colloquial understanding is that, if you're making 15% more power, you're putting 15% more load on the system ... but that's not true. It's not true because you're not making that extra power ALL THE TIME. You only make that extra power at higher throttle openings and, as a consequence, at higher speeds. At 70 MPH cruise? You're making the same power- and your engine/trans/turbo is experiencing the same load- as you are now. Around town going from 0-30? Same. If you give it enough throttle to generate more power, you will accelerate more quickly and it would be inappropriate for the situation, anyway, so you'll drive it to achieve the same sort of "smoothness" it has now, 90-95% of the time.
What that means is, given 100 minutes of driving, roughly 90 minutes of those will be the same, tune or no tune. So you're only putting that extra bit of load on the total system for 10 out of a 100 minutes ... and even that seems unlikely, since I drive about 90 minutes a day and no way am I "on it" 10 minutes a day- and that's as true in a Prius (or whatever) as it is in a 540 HP Renntech-tuned E550 or a 1000 HP Speedriven EV12, you know?
Hope that helps.
When you tune a car, you're trading against that "reliability bank", so that's not a myth. Where the myth comes in is bad math. Let's say we're making another 50 WHP with the tune- the colloquial understanding is that, if you're making 15% more power, you're putting 15% more load on the system ... but that's not true. It's not true because you're not making that extra power ALL THE TIME. You only make that extra power at higher throttle openings and, as a consequence, at higher speeds. At 70 MPH cruise? You're making the same power- and your engine/trans/turbo is experiencing the same load- as you are now. Around town going from 0-30? Same. If you give it enough throttle to generate more power, you will accelerate more quickly and it would be inappropriate for the situation, anyway, so you'll drive it to achieve the same sort of "smoothness" it has now, 90-95% of the time.
What that means is, given 100 minutes of driving, roughly 90 minutes of those will be the same, tune or no tune. So you're only putting that extra bit of load on the total system for 10 out of a 100 minutes ... and even that seems unlikely, since I drive about 90 minutes a day and no way am I "on it" 10 minutes a day- and that's as true in a Prius (or whatever) as it is in a 540 HP Renntech-tuned E550 or a 1000 HP Speedriven EV12, you know?
Hope that helps.
When you tune a car, you're trading against that "reliability bank", so that's not a myth. Where the myth comes in is bad math. Let's say we're making another 50 WHP with the tune- the colloquial understanding is that, if you're making 15% more power, you're putting 15% more load on the system ... but that's not true. It's not true because you're not making that extra power ALL THE TIME. You only make that extra power at higher throttle openings and, as a consequence, at higher speeds. At 70 MPH cruise? You're making the same power- and your engine/trans/turbo is experiencing the same load- as you are now. Around town going from 0-30? Same. If you give it enough throttle to generate more power, you will accelerate more quickly and it would be inappropriate for the situation, anyway, so you'll drive it to achieve the same sort of "smoothness" it has now, 90-95% of the time.
What that means is, given 100 minutes of driving, roughly 90 minutes of those will be the same, tune or no tune. So you're only putting that extra bit of load on the total system for 10 out of a 100 minutes ... and even that seems unlikely, since I drive about 90 minutes a day and no way am I "on it" 10 minutes a day- and that's as true in a Prius (or whatever) as it is in a 540 HP Renntech-tuned E550 or a 1000 HP Speedriven EV12, you know?
Hope that helps.
1) There is indeed that trade-off. Nothing is free. So if someone is interested in getting a tune they should simply be aware that the trade-off exists. I see too many posts where people are asking about tunes in one sentence and then concerned about either voiding their warranty or something possibly wearing out faster in the next. The harder and longer you push anything, the faster it tends to wear out. So a car with a 250,000 mile lifespan may only end up getting 200K to $225K miles after a tune. Not a big difference, since it seem most folks on this site flip their cars every four to five years anyway.
2) My other point is that now this new tune ups the torque to what others on a parallel thread have calculated to be 37 percent over the maximum the transmission is design to safely handle. I know RennTech already offers a transmission upgrade for this model vehicle and I was just wondering if with this tune putting out that much peak stress on the transmission at times whether the transmission upgrade wouldn't automatically be needed with this new tune.
Thanks for your response by the way. I agree with everything you said,
When you tune a car, you're trading against that "reliability bank", so that's not a myth. Where the myth comes in is bad math. Let's say we're making another 50 WHP with the tune- the colloquial understanding is that, if you're making 15% more power, you're putting 15% more load on the system ... but that's not true. It's not true because you're not making that extra power ALL THE TIME. You only make that extra power at higher throttle openings and, as a consequence, at higher speeds. At 70 MPH cruise? You're making the same power- and your engine/trans/turbo is experiencing the same load- as you are now. Around town going from 0-30? Same. If you give it enough throttle to generate more power, you will accelerate more quickly and it would be inappropriate for the situation, anyway, so you'll drive it to achieve the same sort of "smoothness" it has now, 90-95% of the time.
What that means is, given 100 minutes of driving, roughly 90 minutes of those will be the same, tune or no tune. So you're only putting that extra bit of load on the total system for 10 out of a 100 minutes ... and even that seems unlikely, since I drive about 90 minutes a day and no way am I "on it" 10 minutes a day- and that's as true in a Prius (or whatever) as it is in a 540 HP Renntech-tuned E550 or a 1000 HP Speedriven EV12, you know?
Hope that helps.


